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Old 10-30-2014, 08:04 PM   #1
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Brake maintenance

My car has 60,000 miles on it now and I've never replaced anything brake related. When cold or for the first 5 min my brakes have a slight squeaking noise. It's no big deal , just curious if it's my pads getting low or is this normal?

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Old 10-30-2014, 08:13 PM   #2
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i think you went far enough with these pads you should change them and even have your rotors checked...for the price its not worth to wait. Good luck


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Old 10-30-2014, 08:31 PM   #3
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I'm sure my rotors are still good. The sound isn't bad yet. But I'll go tomorrow and have it checked out. Does anyone know the price to have pads replaced?

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Old 10-30-2014, 08:33 PM   #4
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The pads are not very expensive and depending on the type you ceramic or metalic....I would go for ceramic.. 50$ approx


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Old 10-30-2014, 08:48 PM   #5
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What's the price for pads and install at dealer?

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Old 10-30-2014, 08:49 PM   #6
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Dealer are more expensive....could easily in the severals hundreds..


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Old 10-30-2014, 08:59 PM   #7
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Easy enough to do myself? My dad will help. I've installed CAI and throttle body myself but that's about it

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Old 10-30-2014, 09:07 PM   #8
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Easy enough to do myself? My dad will help. I've installed CAI and throttle body myself but that's about it

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Do you have a jack, jack stands and a basic set of sockets? Then yes.

Do as much as you can to your own car as possible. Best way to learn, not to mention you'll save a LOT of money, time and headaches.
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Old 10-30-2014, 09:14 PM   #9
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Yeah I have one jack. Not the skimpy one that comes with the car though lol, a good one. And tools for days

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Old 10-30-2014, 09:33 PM   #10
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Then you should be ok ,easy job


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---------- Post added at 09:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:32 PM ----------

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Old 10-30-2014, 09:44 PM   #11
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Which pads are recommended? Probably won't go with hawk b/c of the reviews about the clips breaking easily
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Old 10-30-2014, 09:59 PM   #12
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You've got this. It's not something you can easily mess up.

I'd just worry about doing the fronts for now. The rears need a special tool to reset the caliper piston, and I bet the rears still have plenty of meat left.

Just don't press the brake pedal with the caliper off. You'll have a bad time. I don't know why anyone would, but I've heard of people doing this.
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Old 10-30-2014, 10:04 PM   #13
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The tool for the rear calipers you can rent from an auto parts store for ~$60. You get your money back when you return it, provided you didn't break it lol.

OR you can buy the same damn tool only a better quality on Amazon for $35. I now own a set, handy to have.

Now the other thing I would recommend is SylGlide lubricant. Depending on the pads you get, it might come with some, it might not. But you want that on the BACK of the pads and on the edges where it contacts the metal shims.

Do not get it on the contact face of the pads or rotors or it could slip when depressed.

You lubricate them to reduce friction on the moving areas, less noise and better response.

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Old 10-31-2014, 07:53 AM   #14
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Really your brake fluid should be flushed every 40k miles, so i would strongly recommend doing it at this time. My GF and i both road race, and in the past 4 months i've bled the brakes in each car 2-3 times. No way in HELL would i do that by hand, and this little power bleeder from Harbor Freight makes quick work of the job, hands down the best $30 i have ever spent (assuming you have an air compressor...)
Brake Fluid Bleeder

This is something you can easily do yourself, but just in case you're not quite comfortable with the idea i'll give you a quick walk thorough.

remove the wheels
remove the 2 bolts on the back of the caliper holding them to the carrier
** i like to have some strong string or zip ties to attach the caliper to the spring since they're really heavy. This will also allow you both hands to work.
remove the pad opposite the piston
Have a C-clamp or caliper compressor tool and compress the piston in a bit (having the old pad in place protects the piston faces)
remove pad on the piston side
install new pads
re attach caliper to carrier
put wheels back on

Simple lol, just insert the bleeding process somewhere in there as well. I would check the rears, but its entirely possible they're fine, they last significantly longer than fronts. Also, the rotors will have worn to the old pads, so its not a bad idea to take them to O-reily's, brake check... somewhere, and get them machined back to a smooth finish (or just replace them) before re installing.

Also, if you aren't familiar with the bleeding process, you start furthest from the master cylinder (passenger rear) and work your way to the closest (driver front), being sure not to let the fluid level in the master cylinder ever drop below the pickup (would introduce air into the lines).

Lastly ... don't forget to pump the brakes a few times when you turn your car on to leave the garage to reestablish pressure lol... i had a royal derp moment and panicked the last time i did my brakes and almost backed into my GFs stang in the drive way because i had no brake pressure.
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Old 10-31-2014, 08:54 AM   #15
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Really your brake fluid should be flushed every 40k miles, so i would strongly recommend doing it at this time. My GF and i both road race, and in the past 4 months i've bled the brakes in each car 2-3 times. No way in HELL would i do that by hand, and this little power bleeder from Harbor Freight makes quick work of the job, hands down the best $30 i have ever spent (assuming you have an air compressor...)
Brake Fluid Bleeder

This is something you can easily do yourself, but just in case you're not quite comfortable with the idea i'll give you a quick walk thorough.

remove the wheels
remove the 2 bolts on the back of the caliper holding them to the carrier
** i like to have some strong string or zip ties to attach the caliper to the spring since they're really heavy. This will also allow you both hands to work.
remove the pad opposite the piston
Have a C-clamp or caliper compressor tool and compress the piston in a bit (having the old pad in place protects the piston faces)
remove pad on the piston side
install new pads
re attach caliper to carrier
put wheels back on

Simple lol, just insert the bleeding process somewhere in there as well. I would check the rears, but its entirely possible they're fine, they last significantly longer than fronts. Also, the rotors will have worn to the old pads, so its not a bad idea to take them to O-reily's, brake check... somewhere, and get them machined back to a smooth finish (or just replace them) before re installing.

Also, if you aren't familiar with the bleeding process, you start furthest from the master cylinder (passenger rear) and work your way to the closest (driver front), being sure not to let the fluid level in the master cylinder ever drop below the pickup (would introduce air into the lines).

Lastly ... don't forget to pump the brakes a few times when you turn your car on to leave the garage to reestablish pressure lol... i had a royal derp moment and panicked the last time i did my brakes and almost backed into my GFs stang in the drive way because i had no brake pressure.
(jaw drops....sits gaping for a min or two...just zones out....all else has become a blurr and doesn't matter....then the most important thought comes to mind...) "Does she have a twin sister?"
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Old 10-31-2014, 09:00 AM   #16
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Lol unfortunately no, but keep in mind, its bitter sweet. She 100% supports that i want to spend lots of money on brakes, tires, suspension... but she wants them too -_- having to buy 2 of everything is rough lol especially when i'm the one doing all the work!

It was actually her idea to start. I used to really be into street racing, mostly my friends mind you i wouldn't just go picking fights on the streets, but its still obviously dangerous. We actually had 2 friends die in a roll over and she told me i was done, we're starting a family soon and both those guys left kids behind... Kind of hard to say no to that, so she got me our first weekend for my birthday and the rest has been history. So there's my threadjack / don't street race kids ( im 23 lol... "kids") side track.
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Old 10-31-2014, 09:03 AM   #17
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Lmao ^^^ 😂
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Old 10-31-2014, 09:15 AM   #18
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Lava,

So Im at 46k miles, no brake job or real sign of needing to but i will say I have had a couple moments were it feels scary. So I would replace them ASAP. Get some GT rotors and Calipers, some stainless braided brake lines. Mine as well get it all done since youll be under there.


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Lol unfortunately no, but keep in mind, its bitter sweet. She 100% supports that i want to spend lots of money on brakes, tires, suspension... but she wants them too -_- having to buy 2 of everything is rough lol especially when i'm the one doing all the work!

It was actually her idea to start. I used to really be into street racing, mostly my friends mind you i wouldn't just go picking fights on the streets, but its still obviously dangerous. We actually had 2 friends die in a roll over and she told me i was done, we're starting a family soon and both those guys left kids behind... Kind of hard to say no to that, so she got me our first weekend for my birthday and the rest has been history. So there's my threadjack / don't street race kids ( im 23 lol... "kids") side track.
She makes you buy her toys too?! Ya the street thing is no good. It always gets escalated way too quickly and people crash or get hurt. D

Damn your 23 and you already have plans to start a family?! Im 2 months from 30 and thats not anywhre in my timeline (of course if it happens , well it happens and things will change.) GL to ya bro. Its nice to know what you want so early in life. I Admire that. (Im all over the place, I blame being medicated for ADHD since I was 5 for that LOL)
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Old 10-31-2014, 09:34 AM   #19
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her money is for living, mine is for fun, it works. BTW, probably wouldn't be a bad idea to take a look at your brake fluid as well. New fluid looks like watered down apple juice, and it doesnt take long for it to start looking like a dark beer. Should notice a big improvement in pedal feel with some good fluid
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Old 11-01-2014, 09:02 PM   #20
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Eventually I'll save up for a big brake kit. Too poor right now. College kid with a minimum wage job... Haha

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Old 12-20-2014, 01:45 AM   #21
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Lava,

So Im at 46k miles, no brake job or real sign of needing to but i will say I have had a couple moments were it feels scary. So I would replace them ASAP. Get some GT rotors and Calipers, some stainless braided brake lines. Mine as well get it all done since youll be under there.
Hey

Are GT Calipers much of an upgrade for 2013 v6 pony package? And would I need to replace the rotors?
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Old 12-20-2014, 02:15 AM   #22
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Hey

Are GT Calipers much of an upgrade for 2013 v6 pony package? And would I need to replace the rotors?
Calipers are the same with the gt and v6, excluding the brembo package. The difference is the GT has larger rotors.

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Old 12-20-2014, 09:50 AM   #23
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Perfect thank you Joey!
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Old 12-20-2014, 10:12 AM   #24
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So could one replace the V6 rotors with GT rotors without much hassle?
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Old 12-20-2014, 12:39 PM   #25
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So could one replace the V6 rotors with GT rotors without much hassle?
You would need wheels large enough to accomodate them (18s or larger I don't think they would clear the stock 17s) and the GT bracket that fits over the rotors as its a little larger as well but the calipers themselves are the same.

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Old 12-20-2014, 03:38 PM   #26
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Im still on the brakes i bought the car with. Insane how long they've lasted 46k miles
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Old 12-20-2014, 07:21 PM   #27
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17in wheels will clear stock GT calipers, but barely. You have to get your front wheels realigned/balanced since the weights WILL scrap off against the caliper. I traded in my 3.7 for a 5.0, and kept my aftermarket 17" wheels and tires. I'm now running these on my 5.0 without any issue. The picture ain't quite clear, i will go take a good one when it stops raining.

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You would need wheels large enough to accomodate them (18s or larger I don't think they would clear the stock 17s) and the GT bracket that fits over the rotors as its a little larger as well but the calipers themselves are the same.

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I don't think GT and V6 are same calipers! I ordered 13.3" rotors (stock gt size) for my 3.7, only to find out they won't clear it. My performance package rotors were already up close with the calipers, not much room to accommodate another 3 quarters of an inch. However, pre 09 GT calipers are same 3.7 ones. Not the 5.0s




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Calipers are the same with the gt and v6, excluding the brembo package. The difference is the GT has larger rotors.

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Old 12-20-2014, 07:26 PM   #28
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Hey

Are GT Calipers much of an upgrade for 2013 v6 pony package? And would I need to replace the rotors?
I'd suggest you get a good set of brake pads (hawk HPS 5.0) and rotors (EBC ultimax). Be another 150 for rotors and about 160 for brake pads - enough to seriously test your ABS system. Plus SS brake lines and dot 4 fluid. Make sure you flush your brake lines though.
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Old 12-20-2014, 07:42 PM   #29
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17in wheels will clear stock GT calipers, but barely. You have to get your front wheels realigned/balanced since the weights WILL scrap off against the caliper. I traded in my 3.7 for a 5.0, and kept my aftermarket 17" wheels and tires. I'm now running these on my 5.0 without any issue. The picture ain't quite clear, i will go take a good one when it stops raining.



I don't think GT and V6 are same calipers! I ordered 13.3" rotors (stock gt size) for my 3.7, only to find out they won't clear it. My performance package rotors were already up close with the calipers, not much room to accommodate another 3 quarters of an inch. However, pre 09 GT calipers are same 3.7 ones. Not the 5.0s
They are the same caliper, just a different caliper bracket and larger rotors. The bracket makes the caliper stick out more.

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Old 12-21-2014, 08:55 AM   #30
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I have 17"on right now for winter and my stock V6 calipers barely fit....I'm less than .25" from them scraping. I doubt the 5.0 GT rotors will fit with 17s.
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Old 12-21-2014, 09:52 AM   #31
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Last time I did a brake job, the best price I could get from a mechanic was $149 per axle. I bought really good pads for $33 at Auto Zone. then I spent another $115 on a good jack and specialty brake tools. Did the job myself. It took me a couple hours to replace the front pads, if even that much time. Now I have all the equipment I need to do another brake job. All I need is the pads.

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Old 12-21-2014, 12:48 PM   #32
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I have 17"on right now for winter and my stock V6 calipers barely fit....I'm less than .25" from them scraping. I doubt the 5.0 GT rotors will fit with 17s.
5.0 rotors wouldn't fit a 3.7 with stock caliper and bracket setup. They will be scrapping it off. I'm not too sure what it be like for 17" wheels if you change the brackets to make 5.0 rotors work.

However, 17" wheels work just fine on a 5.0 with standard brakes. but the gap between caliper and wheels is too minute.. barely the thickness of our car key.
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Old 12-21-2014, 01:15 PM   #33
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Here's a better picture - also shows what tires I have right now.
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Old 12-22-2014, 11:39 AM   #34
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5.0 rotors wouldn't fit a 3.7 with stock caliper and bracket setup. They will be scrapping it off. I'm not too sure what it be like for 17" wheels if you change the brackets to make 5.0 rotors work.

However, 17" wheels work just fine on a 5.0 with standard brakes. but the gap between caliper and wheels is too minute.. barely the thickness of our car key.
Sorry, could just be me but you sound very contradicting to your own statements there.
"5.0 rotors wouldn't fit a 3.7 with stock caliper and bracket setup." yes, i know this. Need the 5.0 bracket and rotors for it to work.
"However, 17" wheels work just fine on a 5.0 with standard brakes. "
not sure if you ment something else like 18"s but 17" just wont work.
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Here's a better picture - also shows what tires I have right now.
Are these Gt rotors?
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Old 12-22-2014, 11:39 AM   #35
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Here's my 17"s and belive me no GT rotors will fit in this...my stock calipers barely fit.
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