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Old 10-31-2014, 04:55 PM   #1
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Lower Control Arms

Hey guys, I was hoping to hear from someone who has actually purchased aftermarket LCA's for some first hand knowledge. I just recently finished lowering my car and noticed the wheel hop is pretty bad when launching. My question is, have any of you noticed a real difference from new LCA's or are they a gimmick? I know they're suppose to fix the hop, but I haven't actually heard from anyone who has them.


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Old 10-31-2014, 05:34 PM   #2
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Did a quick search for "LCA" and found this: LCA Comparison The info is out there, just gotta do some digging.

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Old 10-31-2014, 05:36 PM   #3
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My bad, thanks.


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Old 11-01-2014, 09:40 AM   #4
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You can check out our video here:



Wheel hop is not a one size fits all situation and can be approached in different ways to be resolved.

Depending on your horsepower level and how you drive you car, you may get wheel hop or you might not.

The most common cause of wheel hop is typically the deflection that occurs from soft bushings and flexing of the trailing arms themselves. However some have reported that just doing springs got rid of wheel hop. The reason for that is the change in geometry that occurs when you lower the car.

In simple terms, lowering the car changes your rear suspension geometry and reduces weight transfer. If you have stock control arms and you are reducing weight transfer you are reducing the loads on the suspension that produce the suspension deflection associated with wheel hop, hence wheel hop tends to go away.

However the underlying cause is really the rear trailing arms and their soft bushings. Whenever we get a customer on the phone trying to resolve a wheel hop issue I immediately suggest a set of rear lower arms. For most people this alone will take care of 90 to 100% of their wheel hop issues.

Higher horsepower and aggressive driving styles can still leave room for some wheel hop if you still have the stock upper 3rd link and bushings. Replacing the upper 3rd link after the lowers are done or doing both at the same time will eliminate wheel hop completely at any power level for a street car on street tires/drag radials. If you regularly drive on slicks you will have to compromise on your bushing choice and move away from full urethane to a urethane/spherical bushing combination if you want longevity. Bushing failure can become an issue with slicks/high rpm launches and you will also introduce significant NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) into the vehicle.

Let me know if I can help assist with a forum discount or if you have further questions ... you can reach me at tim@steeda.com

Best Regards,

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Old 11-01-2014, 12:05 PM   #5
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TJ, that was very informative. Thank you!


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Old 11-02-2014, 10:14 PM   #6
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Thank you for the info!


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Old 11-29-2014, 08:54 AM   #7
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TJ what is your opinion on lower relocation brackets?
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Old 12-09-2014, 05:04 PM   #8
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If you lower your car and plan on tracking it you should get brackets. I have BMR LCAs waiting to go on on the spring, gonna grab the relo brackets then too. Should have gotten them together but there was a sale on the LCAs and figured why not save $20

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Old 12-09-2014, 05:09 PM   #9
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Taken from: A beginner's guide to modifying your V6


Suspension:

Lower control arms (and brackets): I believe there is a lot of debate regarding lower control arms and brackets. If your car is lowered... at all... regardless of how small of a drop, you need lower control arm brackets to correct the suspension geometry. People say their car gets by fine, and drives fine, and you dont "need" them, but i disagree 100%. The car WILL NOT load the rear axle properly without relocation brackets (if the car has been lowered), and the car will suffer during launches and shifts.
Upgraded lower control arms come in a few variations, poly bushing vs spherical, fixed vs adjustable... i will leave you do do your own research in regards to those, but i will just cover their general purpose: which is to put load on the axle.
Your lower control arms are anchored on one end on the body, and at the other end on the axle. When you accelerate and the car shifts weight to the rear, it transferees the weight onto the rear axle and improves traction. The stock LCAs have a very soft rubber that tends to deflect during hard driving, and upgraded LCAs will improve the weight transfer.



It is plain as day at the 1/4 seeing which cars have been lowered without using LCA brackets, because they completely buck on every shift due to the car unloading the axle instead of loading it.
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Old 12-09-2014, 05:12 PM   #10
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^+1 volt
You summed that up very nicely. Performance especially on launches will suffer if the angle is not corrected. Just adding LCAs and not correcting angle if lowered will provide 0 benefit. Did I get that right? I have some poly non adjustable BMRs they are very high quality.

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Old 12-09-2014, 09:06 PM   #11
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That is correct. When lowered, upgraded LCAs will correct the deflection of the stock rubber bushings, but not the angle.
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Old 12-09-2014, 09:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iantrusive View Post
Hey guys, I was hoping to hear from someone who has actually purchased aftermarket LCA's for some first hand knowledge. I just recently finished lowering my car and noticed the wheel hop is pretty bad when launching. My question is, have any of you noticed a real difference from new LCA's or are they a gimmick? I know they're suppose to fix the hop, but I haven't actually heard from anyone who has them.


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I have first hand knowledge on after market lower control arms because I have a pair on my 11 3.7. I was getting wheel hop when nailing it from a dead stop. I purchased a pair of non adjustable J&M LCA's and bye bye wheel hop. All gone. I did not lower my car because it's plenty low for me and I couldn't care less about lowering it.

I would say that lower control arms are highly beneficial for wheel hop issues.
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:04 PM   #13
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So I picked up a set of brackets and now what hole do I use. Should the control arm be level? What is the benefit of 3 holes?
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Old 12-14-2014, 06:23 PM   #14
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^same boat just put the brackets in today and I don't know what hole to use right now it's the lowest hole and it launches great but turning doesn't feel the way I want it too so maybe I'll try moving it up


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Old 12-14-2014, 07:01 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhoDat View Post
Did a quick search for "LCA" and found this: LCA Comparison The info is out there, just gotta do some digging.

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This link brought me to a gas pedal sticking issue, nothing to do with lca... Wondering about the difference in bushings and spherical


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Old 12-15-2014, 01:48 AM   #16
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Lower Control Arms

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Originally Posted by Brandneutral View Post
^same boat just put the brackets in today and I don't know what hole to use right now it's the lowest hole and it launches great but turning doesn't feel the way I want it too so maybe I'll try moving it up


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^which hole to use depends on the ride height.
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Old 12-15-2014, 05:27 AM   #17
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You want them straight I believe

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Old 12-15-2014, 06:59 AM   #18
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The relocation brackets will help aid in wheel spin. If you are trying to reduce wheel spin ... then we recommend them ... if you like the wheel spin ... then you should not get them!

Basically, when you lower the vehicle, it will decrease traction at launch.

Steeda 2005-14 Mustang Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets - Made in USA 555-8119 - Free Shipping!

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Old 12-15-2014, 08:02 AM   #19
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They should be parallel to the ground, or at a slight downward angle towards the axle. Note however, the more angled down they are, the more aggressively you will be loading the axle, and the more tire you will need to hook.
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Old 12-15-2014, 09:49 AM   #20
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Can someone give a brief insight as to the different bushings, and adjustable vrs non. And what is the best route to go for both upper and lower control arms? I'm drawing a blank on finding information about them


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Old 12-15-2014, 10:32 AM   #21
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@matt14fp6 Im not sure what you want to do with the car such as track build it, auto cross, or street or if it is a Daily .. But give me a shout and Ill go over it all for you.. Its really easy to narrow down bud.. Shoot me an Email John@steeda.com

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