Lowered with no hop, LCA still useful? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 11-01-2014, 05:04 PM   #1
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Lowered with no hop, LCA still useful?

My wife's Roush RS came lowered from Roush but they left the stock LCA's. There is zero wheel hop but I am wondering if aftermarket LCA's would still be beneficial for better traction? Now that the car is modded, including the tune, it lights the tires up pretty easy at launch so I am curious if LCAs would help. I am upgrading to 10.5's and 285's in the back on Monday and curious to see what that will do to the traction and/or hop, but I am trying to plan my next step...
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Old 11-01-2014, 06:23 PM   #2
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My wife's Roush RS came lowered from Roush but they left the stock LCA's. There is zero wheel hop but I am wondering if aftermarket LCA's would still be beneficial for better traction? Now that the car is modded, including the tune, it lights the tires up pretty easy at launch so I am curious if LCAs would help. I am upgrading to 10.5's and 285's in the back on Monday and curious to see what that will do to the traction and/or hop, but I am trying to plan my next step...
When you get more traction or add more power, you're going to get wheel hop, period. Just the nature of the beast with a solid rear axle.

Get the LCAS and relocation brackets if it's lowered.

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Old 11-01-2014, 07:35 PM   #3
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When you get more traction or add more power, you're going to get wheel hop, period. Just the nature of the beast with a solid real axle.

Get the LCAS and relocation brackets if it's lowered.

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Old 11-01-2014, 07:42 PM   #4
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The comments are not completely correct.

The uca is what will solve your wheel hop issues.
Not sure what gives everyone the idea that the Lca's are what solves this issue.

Simple breakdown.
Upper mount. ( uca ) controls the movement up and down of the axle.

Lca's. Control movement front to back.

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Old 11-01-2014, 07:45 PM   #5
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The comments are not completely correct.

The uca is what will solve your wheel hop issues.
Not sure what gives everyone the idea that the Lca's are what solves this issue.

Simple breakdown.
Upper mount. ( uca ) controls the movement up and down of the axle.

Lca's. Control movement front to back.

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Both contribute to wheel hop. LCAS will normally get rid of the majority of it, the UCA is the next step. I'd recommend going for both, but that's just me.

Here's an article explaining why:

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/faq_rlca.aspx

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Old 11-01-2014, 07:49 PM   #6
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It's like talking to a wall on here sometimes.

Uca is alot more critical In a suspension setup vs Lca's.
I have posted this on here b4.
Uca > Lca's.
Uca should be purchased b4 Lca's if you are buying them separately.

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Old 11-01-2014, 08:03 PM   #7
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Or you know........ Just get a Torque Arm lol


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Old 11-02-2014, 04:48 PM   #8
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You don't have wheel hop because you're lighting the tires up. Wheel hop is not a random occurrence, its basically the car struggling between traction and spinning, and this is what causes the wheels to "hop" as it comes in and out of grip.


Also, Rap, I feel I am going to have to disagree as well. The LCAs are what place the load of the body onto the axle, in my mind they're pretty important as far as controlling wheel hop is concerned?
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Old 11-02-2014, 06:39 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Soccerluvr4 View Post
Or you know........ Just get a Torque Arm lol


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Hey soccer, I asked you this on my build thread, but I'm guessing you didn't see it. Do you know if a torque arm would still work with the Boss H pipe and side exhaust? I have no idea.
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Old 11-02-2014, 06:50 PM   #10
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You don't have wheel hop because you're lighting the tires up. Wheel hop is not a random occurrence, its basically the car struggling between traction and spinning, and this is what causes the wheels to "hop" as it comes in and out of grip.


Also, Rap, I feel I am going to have to disagree as well. The LCAs are what place the load of the body onto the axle, in my mind they're pretty important as far as controlling wheel hop is concerned?
A uca will have give a greater gain to getting rig of wheel hop vs Lca's.
Your uca is what controls the complete axle. It's your 3rd link.
Take it as you want. Call BMR if you don't trust my word.

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---------- Post added at 07:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:49 PM ----------

They are important but if you are just purchasing one. The uca will be your best bet

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Old 11-03-2014, 07:48 AM   #11
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Not saying i didnt, just looking for a little more insight
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Old 11-04-2014, 11:18 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Soccerluvr4 View Post
Or you know........ Just get a Torque Arm lol


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This is the 11-14 forum, where the hellish landscape of the triangulated 4 link is thankfully absent.

Anyway, the Roush already comes with a much improved UCA/mount. It is known to virtually eliminate wheelhop without increasing NVH and is considered an upgrade for non-Roush cars. If you still have the 2 piece driveshaft you should not have to worry about being lowered. If you ever upgrade to a 1 piece driveshaft, you'll probaly need an adjustable UCA if you are lowered.
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Old 11-06-2014, 07:00 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
This is the 11-14 forum, where the hellish landscape of the triangulated 4 link is thankfully absent.

Anyway, the Roush already comes with a much improved UCA/mount. It is known to virtually eliminate wheelhop without increasing NVH and is considered an upgrade for non-Roush cars. If you still have the 2 piece driveshaft you should not have to worry about being lowered. If you ever upgrade to a 1 piece driveshaft, you'll probaly need an adjustable UCA if you are lowered.
That is interesting, the Roush window sticker doesn't list many details other than lowering, but that does explain why it doesn't have hop from being lowered. The next mod was going to be a driveshaft though...
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Old 11-06-2014, 07:34 PM   #14
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So with both adjustable upper and lower control arms, I should be in business traction-wise for any basic bolt on mods at stock height, right?
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Old 11-07-2014, 07:22 AM   #15
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If you're staying stock ride height, or even just a mild drop, i wouldnt bother with adjustable lowers. The adjustable upper however is important for setting pinion angle if you ever had a 1-piece driveshaft when lowered.
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Old 11-07-2014, 05:27 PM   #16
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It gets real fun with a stock 4 link SN95 and a non-stock transmission and aftermarket crossmember AND lowered. Lucky for me the Stiffler's unit came with two 1/8" thick shims. Before I sold the 98, I dialed that thing in to around 1.5 degrees which was no shims and barely clearing the tunnel with the bigger 3650... You want to get the angle a lot tighter with all poly mounts than if you still have the OEM trans mount too... which, I am told/researched... nobody with a MT82 should still have. Even in the SN95, going to a good poly mount like the Energy trans mount makes a big difference but if you have a linkage style shifter... you CANNOT have it moving all the hell over the place.
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