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Old 12-01-2014, 10:43 PM   #1
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H&R super sport springs

Hi all,

I have a 2013 v6 which have 38K miles on it. If I installed H&R super sport springs, do I need to replace the struts, shocks, or camber plates ? or even any other lowering springs do I need to replace anything due to the mileage ? I chose H&R as it was the most aggressive drop as it drops 1.7 in the front and 2.4 in the back.
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Old 12-01-2014, 11:36 PM   #2
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These kind of springs you want replace everything. These springs will slam your Mustang.
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Old 12-02-2014, 12:30 AM   #3
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yes be prepared to bottom out a lot these are the springs im on
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Old 12-02-2014, 10:40 AM   #4
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Personally, for a DD I wouldnt go this low. Ive done this in the past thinking "it will be fine" ,well it wasnt. I have speed bumps where I work and on my Z I had to raise it back up because I couldnt even clear them with out scraping th hell out of the bottom of my car.

They look great, dont get me wrong. They're just not super practical.
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Old 12-02-2014, 10:43 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socal Stangman View Post
These kind of springs you want replace everything. These springs will slam your Mustang.
This. I would say a 1.5" drop and call it a day. I went with a 1" drop because I'm not concerned about the slammed look and there's too many steep curbs out here.

2" is the absolute max I would ever go on this car, but it's up to you.

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Old 12-02-2014, 11:11 AM   #6
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This. I would say a 1.5" drop and call it a day. I went with a 1" drop because I'm not concerned about the slammed look and there's too many steep curbs out here.

2" is the absolute max I would ever go on this car, but it's up to you.

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Prokit? Thats what I did and I love it. It looks great and it handles great. I never have had an issue of bottoming out yet.
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Old 12-02-2014, 11:34 AM   #7
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Thanks guys, well I'm know looking at the SR lowering springs, but the thing is I don't want to spend a lot for now. AM has a very nice offer on them. Do I need to replace anything else with these springs or should I just wait and replace the springs and the shocks and struts all together ?
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Old 12-02-2014, 12:47 PM   #8
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Prokit? Thats what I did and I love it. It looks great and it handles great. I never have had an issue of bottoming out yet.
Yep, I got the Pro Kit Eibachs. I really like them. The only clearance issue I've had is on my ramps. I need low profile ones.

That and parking against curbs, but that's why I installed my curb alert sensor lol

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---------- Post added at 12:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:46 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by mutaz102 View Post
Thanks guys, well I'm know looking at the SR lowering springs, but the thing is I don't want to spend a lot for now. AM has a very nice offer on them. Do I need to replace anything else with these springs or should I just wait and replace the springs and the shocks and struts all together ?
Panhard bar and at least camber bolts if you're on a budget.

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Old 12-02-2014, 02:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mutaz102 View Post
Thanks guys, well I'm know looking at the SR lowering springs, but the thing is I don't want to spend a lot for now. AM has a very nice offer on them. Do I need to replace anything else with these springs or should I just wait and replace the springs and the shocks and struts all together ?
Lower control arms (and brackets): I believe there is a lot of debate regarding lower control arms and brackets. If your car is lowered... at all... regardless of how small of a drop, you need lower control arm brackets to correct the suspension geometry. People say their car gets by fine, and drives fine, and you dont "need" them, but i disagree 100%. The car WILL NOT load the rear axle properly without relocation brackets (if the car has been lowered), and the car will suffer during launches and shifts.
Upgraded lower control arms come in a few variations, poly bushing vs spherical, fixed vs adjustable... i will leave you do do your own research in regards to those, but i will just cover their general purpose: which is to put load on the axle.
Your lower control arms are anchored on one end on the body, and at the other end on the axle. When you accelerate and the car shifts weight to the rear, it transferees the weight onto the rear axle and improves traction. The stock LCAs have a very soft rubber that tends to deflect during hard driving, and upgraded LCAs will improve the weight transfer.

Upper control arm (and bracket): This part is critical for correcting pinion angle. This is important when a car is both A. Lowered, and B. has a one piece driveshaft. It is very commonly known that an aftermarket UCA will cause a "clunking" noise when used with the stock bracket, so it is highly recommended to upgrade both at the same time.

Adjustable Panhard Bar: This is another critical piece to upgrade when the car has been lowered. One end of the PHB is anchored on the body, and the other on the axle. When the car is lowered, it will cause the body to shift in relation to the axle, so it is very important to have an adjustable panhard bar to re-center the body over the axle.



^^ Taken from:
A beginner's guide to modifying your V6

With a drop as aggressive as those springs, you can use the factory shocks / struts, but it is not a matter of "if" they fail, but when. Its basically the same as rolling around with hundreds of extra pounds in the car as far as the suspension is concerned.
The camber will also eat away the inside edge of your tires, so if you dont want to flip the tires on the rims every so often to trade wear from the inner to outter edges, you'll need camber plates. You can use the bolts, but they've been known to break ... not something i'd chance.
You also run the risk of binding the stock Front sway bar end links, so you'll likely want a nice set of adjustables (potentially front and rear).
You cant just slam a car on springs and call it a day, the suspension gemoetry is a very delicate procedure, and everything you change needs to be changed in relation to the pieces around it.
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Old 12-02-2014, 05:45 PM   #10
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I'm actually working in reverse. I know I don't have the cash to do the whole set up all at once. So I took advantage of the Black Friday deals and got the panhard bar, brace and LCA's for now. In the future I'll get the CC plates, UCA and bracket and relocation brackets, then finally the springs. It's better to wait until you have the cash to do it all at once, or piece meal it, with the springs being the last item to get.
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Old 12-07-2014, 02:45 AM   #11
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Well I found a good deal on sr lowering springs and j&m panhard bar and also got camber bolts. I'm planning to get a set of new 20 inch wheels to replace my stock 17 inch once, do guys recommend installing the springs now or when I get the new wheels? are going to settle better or it doesn't matter. I'm getting the new wheels in about two to three months and I'm not in a hurry to install the springs.
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Old 12-14-2014, 04:37 PM   #12
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I am on super and its a DD. I dont ever bottom even with an X pipe and the stance is perfect IMO. I have adj struts/shocks and the ride is great. I have a friend with the same Mustang and he just has the ss springs and after driving his car I am glad I changed the struts/shocks, the ride is so much better. The actual drop is 1.5fr and 2.0rear (GT) a bit off of what is advertised.
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Old 12-14-2014, 09:00 PM   #13
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Hr ss. Whiteline panhard and bmr LCA. Fits (barely) 305/35zr20 😁 Click image for larger version

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ID:	171892
Click image for larger version

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Old 12-15-2014, 01:12 AM   #14
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Hr ss. Whiteline panhard and bmr LCA. Fits (barely) 305/35zr20 😁 Attachment 171892
Attachment 171893


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Do you rub while turning?



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Old 12-17-2014, 01:59 PM   #15
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Do you rub while turning?



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No


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Old 12-17-2014, 04:22 PM   #16
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savage what are you running in the front?
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