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Old 12-12-2014, 12:43 AM   #1
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newbie v6 owner looking for max power/value

OK guys and gals I'm sure that this might be beating a dead horse but let me put this out there. I have a brand spanking new 2014 3.7 performance package, and I'm about to drop $2500 in performance upgrades. I'm going for maximum power, and the setup I'm looking at right now is a steeda cai, bbk tb, lth, and catted xpipe along with mbrp cat back exhaust, lastly a bama x4 tuner. I'm hoping to put down roughly 300 whp, I don't have the finances to go the forced induction route, and frankly am scared to death of nos as I only have 1400 miles on the car. With all that being said I'm open to all suggestions or am I headed in the right direction. My overall goal is to be running in the mid 12's. Thanks in advance for any and all advice.
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Old 12-12-2014, 12:44 AM   #2
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Probably will be told to ditch the cai and throttle body

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Old 12-12-2014, 12:52 AM   #3
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Ok and put that extra $800 where exactly, like I said I just want a fast yet still reliable car.
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Old 12-12-2014, 12:59 AM   #4
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Ok and put that extra $800 where exactly, like I said I just want a fast yet still reliable car.

Suspension. All the power in the world is useless if you can't put it to the ground.


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Old 12-12-2014, 01:21 AM   #5
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Suspension. All the power in the world is useless if you can't put it to the ground.


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Old 12-12-2014, 06:53 AM   #6
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I've said this a few times (OK - a lot - heh), but the V6 isn't about power. You can spend a lot of money and get fairly mediocre gains. The one thing that does make a big deal is a supercharger. Forget 10-20 HP here, 5-10HP there, this will make it into V8 power. If you're serious, save that $2500 up until it's $5000 and go that route. Or just get a V8 someday.

The V6 is about getting an inexpensive car that handles great and maximizes power delivery. Too bad Ford made a few bad decisions that make it more difficult to get there. Note that the V6 *is* a cheap muscle car. You should fully expect some cost-cutting since it's half the price of a similar power BMW.

#1 - missing or weak factory parts. If you don't have fog lights, that's a prime example or first things to address. The shifter mechanism and mount is another. Getting locked out of 3rd when it happens the first time (it will happen eventually) will make your blood boil a bit. "1..2... ????...!!!!!". The driveshaft is another, though a lot of money. Gears also is on this list, though not required if it's a daily driver.

#2 - Handling upgrades. #1 is the tires. The stock rubber is OK for commuting, but that's about it. #2 are things like replacing the factory brake pads (the rotors are fine though), upgrading the various suspension bushings, and so on.

But for $800? Transmission mount stiffener (rubber piece that fits in the OEM mount) and a shifter kit/bracket. Spend the rest on the suspension. Or the interior to make it more enjoyable. I commute 20K a year in mine and the V6 is plenty fast and reliable once the few base model issues are taken care of.
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Old 12-12-2014, 07:22 AM   #7
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I hate to sound like I'm tooting my own horn, but if you havent read this already it may prove helpful in deciding your mod path A beginner's guide to modifying your V6

That being said, my recommendations are as follows:

1. Headers
2. Mid pipe
3.Tune
4. Lowering springs of some sort
5. Lower control arms + relocation brackets
6. adjustable panhard bar

This will be about 80% of what your car has to give as far as "power" and "speed" are concerned, but they're the biggest bang for the buck to get there.


Edit* Just re-read the post above me and i agree 100% about getting some sort of shifter and/or shifter bracket. My GF likes the "ease" of the stock shifter in her '14 V6 with the stability of the Barton 2-post. I have the Barton Shifter + 2-post in my '13 5.0 and like the crisp and precise shifts.
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Old 12-12-2014, 07:25 AM   #8
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Ok and put that extra $800 where exactly, like I said I just want a fast yet still reliable car.
Gears gears gears. 800 should cover a set of gears and the install. Also I upgraded to the Barton shifter bracket and swapped to Royal Purple syncomax, significant difference for little $$$.

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Old 12-12-2014, 08:04 AM   #9
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He should have 3.31s with the PP, so going to a 3.55 wouldnt do him much good, and i personally feel 3.73 is too much for the standard.
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Old 12-12-2014, 08:41 AM   #10
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Never understand this, people who say there isn't really anything or much at all to gain going from 3.31s to 3.55s and then say 3.73s are too much. The jump from 3.55s to 3.73s is less than a jump from 3.31s to 3.55s. For all intents and purposes most would barely be able to tell there was a difference between 3.55s and 3.73s, hence why most people who do gear changes go with either 3.55s or 3.73s. The difference is so minor between both in mpg and rpm.

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Old 12-12-2014, 08:51 AM   #11
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^I agree. I would just save up for a supercharger. Most power for the money. I believe voltwing was selling a used one recently for 3500, although I think it has been sold. Gives you an idea on what they are going for. I think most of the mods you listed would work with a supercharger, so you could always do those first. If you are considering a supercharger later, don't bother with the CAI.

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Old 12-12-2014, 08:56 AM   #12
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If the ops car is a manual, in the 1/4 mile, a 3.55 or 3.73 will hurt you. You will be shifting to 4th around the 1000' mark or going through the traps, which you don't want to do.
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Old 12-12-2014, 09:03 AM   #13
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Never understand this, people who say there isn't really anything or much at all to gain going from 3.31s to 3.55s and then say 3.73s are too much. The jump from 3.55s to 3.73s is less than a jump from 3.31s to 3.55s. For all intensive purposes most would barely be able to tell there was a difference between 3.55s and 3.73s, hence why most people who do gear changes go with either 3.55s or 3.73s. The difference is so minor between both in mpg and rpm.

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I dont think you're looking at this quite right.
The difference between 3.31 and 3.55 is small
The difference between 3.55 and 3.73 is small
The difference between 3.31 and 3.73 is noticeable.

The point is its worth the time, money, effort to go from the factory 2.73 to a 3.55, its not worth it to go from 3.31 to a 3.55. My GFs v6 standard has a 3.55 gear in it with 27" tires, and i honestly couldnt imagine any more gear than that, 1-2-3 go by a little too fast for my liking in daily driving situations.

BTW ... sorry to be an *** but just because its a pet peeve of mine, All intents and purposes*
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Old 12-12-2014, 09:21 AM   #14
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I dont think you're looking at this quite right.
The difference between 3.31 and 3.55 is small
The difference between 3.55 and 3.73 is small
The difference between 3.31 and 3.73 is noticeable.

The point is its worth the time, money, effort to go from the factory 2.73 to a 3.55, its not worth it to go from 3.31 to a 3.55. My GFs v6 standard has a 3.55 gear in it with 27" tires, and i honestly couldnt imagine any more gear than that, 1-2-3 go by a little too fast for my liking in daily driving situations.

BTW ... sorry to be an *** but just because its a pet peeve of mine, All intents and purposes*
Lol, bro you didn't come off that way, just a discussion that's all. Agreed that the difference between 3.31-3.55 and 3.55-373 is small, that's all I was saying. Now obviously there will be some sort of noticeable difference between any gear change whether its 2.73-3.73 or 3.31-3.73s there is no debate about that. What I was saying is that the jump between 3.55s to 3.73s is small, like tiny. I had the opportunity to drive as a passenger in a 12 manual with 3.55s with a mustang club member this past summer and drivability wise they were almost identical. We took a spin in mine after (3.73) and he also agreed that it was almost identical. There is going to be a slight difference between the two just because it is a shorter/taller gear but its really small and doesn't affect drivability to the point where it would become way to much. IMO if someone is happy with 3.55s they'd be happy with 3.73s and vice versa. Just my 2ยข.

BTW sorry if I came off a little strong in previous post, no a$$holism intended.

I respect and appreciate the knowledge you bring to this forum.

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Old 12-12-2014, 09:27 AM   #15
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I just meant for Correcting your grammar haha.

Having never driven a 3.73 V6 i suppose i'll have to take your word for this. Like i said, i view the 3.55s she has as flirting with the line of just enough and too much already, but mathematically it makes sense; it is a really small difference.
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Old 12-12-2014, 09:32 AM   #16
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I just meant for Correcting your grammar haha.

Having never driven a 3.73 V6 i suppose i'll have to take your word for this. Like i said, i view the 3.55s she has as flirting with the line of just enough and too much already, but mathematically it makes sense; it is a really small difference.
U doNnt lik Mi grAmer, f u thEnn. Lol jk jk. : )

Its really not a big jump like going from 3.55s to like 4.10s. But I can understand if someone went 3.55s and thought it was just too much gear or was just on the edge of being to much, then yeah they won't like going even more gear even though its not a big jump.


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Old 12-12-2014, 09:36 AM   #17
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Well I appreciate everyone's comments but I'm the kind of person who absolutely cannot leave my car stock for any amount of time. Also the idea of saving up to 6-7 grand for a super charger is just unrealistic for me at this point that would take a couple more years minimum (however I would love it). Gears I can tell is a hot debate if I do change gears I would go with 3.73 although I'm not sold, lowering springs would be nice as this car even with the pp does weight transition a lot from front to rear. I can go without the cai I'm learning but is the throttle body worth the investment?
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Old 12-12-2014, 10:25 AM   #18
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Well I appreciate everyone's comments but I'm the kind of person who absolutely cannot leave my car stock for any amount of time. Also the idea of saving up to 6-7 grand for a super charger is just unrealistic for me at this point that would take a couple more years minimum (however I would love it). Gears I can tell is a hot debate if I do change gears I would go with 3.73 although I'm not sold, lowering springs would be nice as this car even with the pp does weight transition a lot from front to rear. I can go without the cai I'm learning but is the throttle body worth the investment?
Gears are a great option and IMO are the best bang for the buck, but in your case it wouldn't be worth it to jump from 3.31s to 3.55s, so your kinda limited to go 3.73/3.90s/or 4.10s. 3.73s were perfect for me but I was coming from 2.73s and tbh when I test drove the 13pp with 3.31s it was pretty good. Knowing then what I know now I would have done them first with my tuner and I would have passed on my Airaid Cai also.
I'm still on the fence about the tb. I'll be doing re location brackets and lcas to compliment my lowering springs and adj pan hard bar.

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Old 12-12-2014, 10:42 AM   #19
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Well I appreciate everyone's comments but I'm the kind of person who absolutely cannot leave my car stock for any amount of time. Also the idea of saving up to 6-7 grand for a super charger is just unrealistic for me at this point that would take a couple more years minimum (however I would love it). Gears I can tell is a hot debate if I do change gears I would go with 3.73 although I'm not sold, lowering springs would be nice as this car even with the pp does weight transition a lot from front to rear. I can go without the cai I'm learning but is the throttle body worth the investment?
Throttle body won't really help you much same as the cai so you're doing alirght there. Lowering springs will definitely change the way the car feels and handles on the road drastically, especially while cornering
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Old 12-12-2014, 11:17 AM   #20
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Something about those BBK throttle bodies... I feel like they're better off as bait on a hook than for performance purposes on cars...
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Old 12-12-2014, 12:37 PM   #21
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Call me crazy but when I changed to 3.73 gears on my 11 pp I felt like it was just too much of a gear, and yes I even added new tires. as it has been said before youll blow through the gears way too fast 1st is almost useless now and 2-3 happens before you even know it. if all goes as planned and I turbo her I'll probably go back to 3.31 waste of money but oh well live and learn
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Old 12-12-2014, 01:53 PM   #22
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I've said this before, IMO 3.31s should have been the stock gear for our 3.7s, good off the line without sacrificing mpgs. The pp should have had either 3.55s or 3.73s. When I had my 2.73s the gear was ridiculously long, 125kmh in second gear is crazy, that works in a Shelby but not our 3.7s. I remember when I bought mine I was like where the hell is my missing 100hp? The car was terrible of the line and it felt like an eternity to get into the power band. In first I can still hit around 50 kmh before running out of gear (3.73). Not bad considering my wife's 2014 fusion eco will shift at 20kmh, now that's short. With a turbo set up you'll definitely want to go back to 3.31s because you won't have a shortage of tq for sure, if not you'll be going through lots of tires and your car won't be able to benefit from all that extra power. Hell maybe something even smaller than 3.31s with that much more power.

Edit:
I see that ford is learning from the last gen.

2015's,

-V6 now comes with 3.15s which is at least better than the 2.73s.

-2.3 Eco comes standard with 3.31s with the pp having 3.55s

-GT comes standard with 3.31s with 3.55s and 3.73s as options.

Those were manuals that I was looking at.
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Old 12-12-2014, 02:05 PM   #23
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I have the quickest, most bad *** sounding V6 Mustang that I truely love driving all the time.
I live near Excessive Motorsport in Manassas & have been privlieged to have them dyno tune the car as mods were added.
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Old 12-12-2014, 02:12 PM   #24
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Suspension, Driveshaft, Tune, Tires, Exhaust.
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Old 12-13-2014, 03:03 AM   #25
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Since you have the performance package start with a mpt tune. It really woke mine up. Wish it was summer now with gas dropping and now have my winter tires on. If you have the manual transmission the exhaust gets a little louder with age.


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Old 12-13-2014, 04:51 AM   #26
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I would go with a tune, and then some gears or headers with a mid pipe. That's where your real power is gonna come from.
CAI is eye and ear candy really. Throttle body is debatable. I personally have one and enjoy it. Nothing proven though.


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Old 12-13-2014, 10:16 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
I dont think you're looking at this quite right.
The difference between 3.31 and 3.55 is small
The difference between 3.55 and 3.73 is small
The difference between 3.31 and 3.73 is noticeable.

The point is its worth the time, money, effort to go from the factory 2.73 to a 3.55, its not worth it to go from 3.31 to a 3.55. My GFs v6 standard has a 3.55 gear in it with 27" tires, and i honestly couldnt imagine any more gear than that, 1-2-3 go by a little too fast for my liking in daily driving situations.

BTW ... sorry to be an *** but just because its a pet peeve of mine, All intents and purposes*
+1

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Old 12-13-2014, 03:14 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by 2014stang3.7 View Post
OK guys and gals I'm sure that this might be beating a dead horse but let me put this out there. I have a brand spanking new 2014 3.7 performance package, and I'm about to drop $2500 in performance upgrades. I'm going for maximum power, and the setup I'm looking at right now is a steeda cai, bbk tb, lth, and catted xpipe along with mbrp cat back exhaust, lastly a bama x4 tuner. I'm hoping to put down roughly 300 whp, I don't have the finances to go the forced induction route, and frankly am scared to death of nos as I only have 1400 miles on the car. With all that being said I'm open to all suggestions or am I headed in the right direction. My overall goal is to be running in the mid 12's. Thanks in advance for any and all advice.
You should be close to 300 rwhp based on your wanting mod list. I personally would not waste the money on a throttle body and get gears. Since I have an auto I chose 3:73 gears and no regrets. Love my 3:73's. No traction and tire spinning issues with my 3:73 gears and that's even with my factory 17 inch Michelin tires. Of course that's most likely because I have an automatic.

Since you have a manual I have no idea which is the best gear for you. Grabber has that 73mm BBK throttle body but I'm not convinced its worth $400 new or even 200 used. I'm not sold on the actual power gains of them and would skip that mod.
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Old 12-13-2014, 03:16 PM   #29
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I would go with a tune, and then some gears or headers with a mid pipe. That's where your real power is gonna come from.
CAI is eye and ear candy really. Throttle body is debatable. I personally have one and enjoy it. Nothing proven though.


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I love my eye and ear candy. Lol
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Old 12-13-2014, 03:27 PM   #30
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I love my eye and ear candy. Lol
I love my eye and ear candy. This is also eye and ear candy. She really provides little gains but sure is nice eye and ear candy. Ba ha ha ha ha
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Old 12-13-2014, 03:33 PM   #31
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Lmfao that kid in the background in the picture haha haha
Yes I don't think the throttle body is worth 400 but I got it for a steal and figured why not try it.
Headers, mid pipe, tune, gears .
That's where your zoom zoom is gonna come from. And you will feel a huge difference

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Old 12-13-2014, 04:16 PM   #32
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Lmfao that kid in the background in the picture haha haha
Yes I don't think the throttle body is worth 400 but I got it for a steal and figured why not try it.
Headers, mid pipe, tune, gears .
That's where your zoom zoom is gonna come from. And you will feel a huge difference

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The kid made the picture and you got your TB for a steal
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Old 12-13-2014, 04:20 PM   #33
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Does anyone have some ets that they care to share and with what mods done to the vehicle like stated previously really wanna get in the mid 12's
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Old 12-13-2014, 05:29 PM   #34
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You will be in the mid 12s with all of those mods and some drags

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Old 12-14-2014, 01:13 AM   #35
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Yummy Candy!!!

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I love my eye and ear candy. This is also eye and ear candy. She really provides little gains but sure is nice eye and ear candy. Ba ha ha ha ha
If that's your "EYE" Candy, bring her to the next American Muscle Car Show.
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2013 Silver V6 Premium, Ford Racing Handling Package, MGP Black Caliper Covers, Airaid CAI, Bama Tuner, BBK Catted X-Pipes, Corsa Sport Axle-Back Exhaust, Alum One Piece Driveshaft, BBK Ceramic Shorties, Whiteline Adj. UCA, Whiteling ADJ. Lower Control Arms, Whiteline Adj. Pan Hard Bar, Upgraded Rotors (Cross Cut and Drilled), Ceramic Pads, J&M Stainless Steel Brake Lines (Front and Back), 18" Staggered Chrome Bullitts, MMD Eleanor Side Scoops, Side Scoops, Roush Front and Lower Grilles and Super Snake Stripes.
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