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Old 12-27-2014, 01:46 PM   #36
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And for god sakes Ronnie can you stop calling people names like idiots! Do you realise that you post some pretty ridiculous comments but no one calls you any names, you've basically called everyone idiots that drive their cars hard from the get go. In the end we are all just car enthusiasts that share our thoughts collectively. Just saying.
Agreed. It's painfully obvious he has little knowledge on anything car related.
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Old 12-27-2014, 01:54 PM   #37
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There really isn't too much to worry about with modern engines... they are broken in within the first 30 minutes that they are run.
The brakes and the clutch, on the other hand, can benefit from a proper "break in" period. Somewhere between 500-1000 miles (city/freeway) is usually adequate.

It's just common sense that, the harder that you use something, the faster that it will wear out.
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Old 12-27-2014, 06:35 PM   #38
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The motors get tested at the factory anyways. Im sure they already come broken in. Its under warranty tho so rug it dude lol
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Old 12-27-2014, 06:46 PM   #39
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If your worried about brand new cars then you would cry when you see what they do with the c6 z06 vettes as soon as they hit the floor at the plant. Have a friend that worked there 4 awhile. As soon as they come off the line they get broken in with a clutch drop and 1 lap around there private test track. Then put in line for the truck to send them off to the dealership


I wish I had that Job, he said it was only a select few people who were alowed to, most were retired race car drivers etc. But I would trade in what I do for one month to get to do that **** everyday
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Old 12-27-2014, 07:36 PM   #40
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I believe ferrari and/or lamborghini does this also, from assembly line directly to the track before they find their way to their owners.

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Old 12-28-2014, 04:46 AM   #41
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I believe ferrari and/or lamborghini does this also, from assembly line directly to the track before they find their way to their owners.

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C'mon guys, it's not like those companies build muscle cars or anything... We're talking about V6 Mustang powah here!


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Old 12-28-2014, 07:12 AM   #42
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Just having a little fun. : )

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Old 12-29-2014, 08:51 AM   #43
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Like I said I broke my built motor in with a clutch drop and 4 gears WOT. Leaving the shop.

Every car we have built also has been broken in the same way. From thr 383 nitrous firebird to the 1 400hp fox to the 600 cubic inch truck with more nitrous then you can think.

Break it in the way you intend to drive it

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Old 12-29-2014, 08:52 AM   #44
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Old school I followed the manual (also early oil changes).

Smart enough to know it probably doesn't make a statistical difference (including the oil change)
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Old 12-29-2014, 09:04 AM   #45
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Old school I followed the manual (also early oil changes).

Smart enough to know it probably doesn't make a statistical difference (including the oil change)
Old habits die hard Mud, it's ok. No one blames you
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Old 12-29-2014, 09:23 AM   #46
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I think a lot of people here are not arguing the same point. Are we talking a new car, or are we talking a fresh (as in built) engine?

There are obviously people of strong opinion on both sides, but i personally am of the "seat the piston rings" crowd, in line with the article posted above. That being said, a lot of what needs to be taken into account are the tolerances involved in such things. Factory motors are usually pretty loose as far as the piston rings are concerned, and there's often a great deal of variation between the gaps of each cylinder. For this reason, taking the effort to do a break in on a run-of-the-mill 3.7 V6 may be a little excessive.

When i had my motor built however, i asked for a fairly tight ring gap - this was to be a primarily street car, and i didnt want a lot of blow by / smoking at idle that a lot of big boost cars get due to their looser ring gap (the rings expand when hot, so you gap them looser to allow expansion. This often times causes smoking when at low loads and under engine braking from burning the blow by).
My Dad's C7 z06 he just got also has the most explicit factory break in i have ever seen, there's even a soft redline on the (digital) tach at 4000 rpms that users are "strongly encouraged" not to go over until the 1200 mile point and oil changes. Obviously we've seen several people dog their Z06s right off the lot, but who knows whats really better or worse at this point. May be like oil separators; it helps, but you'll never really notice the difference.
Granted, You typically see more favorable compression tests (or at least, i have seen ... i hate blanket statements) post break-in when the user as taken the effort to seat the piston rings, but again, could just be snake oil.
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Old 12-29-2014, 10:08 AM   #47
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I always break in my engines the same way... with heat cycles, variable load and rpm with a good bit of engine braking for the first few hours. Then a few WOT, max rpm runs with engine braking, change the fluids and drive it however you want.

The only exception to this is fully built four stroke engines and two strokes. Those would get about 15-20 minutes of low-mid-high rpm, change the oil and run it.
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Old 12-29-2014, 04:06 PM   #48
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Another car my uncle built for a family Friend. This motor was broke in on the dragstrip

633 with a 300 shot
Made 960 on motor alone. Ran 8.40 on motor and 7.80 on nitrous.

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Old 12-29-2014, 04:06 PM   #49
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Here is the car


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Old 12-29-2014, 04:12 PM   #50
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That's a purpose built race car, not a car that will see over 100k miles.

You treat a track you a lot different than your daily driver.
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Old 12-29-2014, 04:15 PM   #51
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That's a purpose built race car, not a car that will see over 100k miles.

You treat a track you a lot different than your daily driver.
Actually this car sees the street more than it does the track. And motor has been in a truck also. Then now in the nova.

Like I said b4, we roll a little different than most people. cars aren't just trailer queens.
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Old 01-03-2015, 11:34 AM   #52
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Something ive been thinking about too is how would you be able to tell if the engine was broken in correctly? Comp test? catch can dyno runs (see how much oil is spit out due to blow by)?
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:11 AM   #53
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Engines are built with such tight tolerances now that there is no need for a break-in period. If you believe otherwise then thats fine, doesn't affect me at all.

And like someone else already said, if something DID break, that's what the warranty is for.

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Old 03-27-2015, 10:38 AM   #54
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Had a buddy fresh back from Vietnam in 1969 who bought a brand new 1969 Mach 1 with 428CJ and C-6 auto. He couldn't get it over 110 mph on his way home from the dealer so he turned it around and took it back to the dealership to complain. They put it up on the lift and found out if had the wrong speedometer gear in the transmission. They swapped it out and he left again the same way he had the first time. This time the needle went about an inch past the 120 mph mark. He was happy and kept on going till he got home. That's how he broke'um in. (LOL)

He sold the car a few years later and I saw it at the Carlisle All-Ford Show again a couple of years ago. Of course it's been restored since then but 45 years later it's still on the road.
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Old 10-30-2015, 09:14 AM   #55
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Had a buddy fresh back from Vietnam in 1969 who bought a brand new 1969 Mach 1 with 428CJ and C-6 auto. He couldn't get it over 110 mph on his way home from the dealer so he turned it around and took it back to the dealership to complain. They put it up on the lift and found out if had the wrong speedometer gear in the transmission. They swapped it out and he left again the same way he had the first time. This time the needle went about an inch past the 120 mph mark. He was happy and kept on going till he got home. That's how he broke'um in. (LOL)

He sold the car a few years later and I saw it at the Carlisle All-Ford Show again a couple of years ago. Of course it's been restored since then but 45 years later it's still on the road.
Its too bad most car owners from 1980 to now wont ever get to have that experience. Cars now days are built in such high numbers and treated far worse that to see your car on the road after you sold it anytime after 5 years is almost non-existent. My Dad's 69 Mach1 came the same way. Bought it in 78 with 34000 miles on it for 1500 drove it around till 60k miles sold it for $2k in 84 saw it again in 89 all torn apart and in pieces being sold at a Pomona swap meet and just about flipped. Sold it cause I was born and he needed the extra money for a family car, had some extra cash that year and went up there to see if he could find one. Fortunately he found his old one but it was in such bad shape he needed to do a few things to get it running. Sadly it still sits as it is cause the more time goes on the more expensive the parts and labor for body work and such go up. I'll just make it a project of mine once i get some extra money to mess with it.
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Old 11-02-2015, 10:58 PM   #56
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Drive it like no tomorrow lol...
your gonna end up doing it anyways in the future...just wait till you hit a 1000 miles first ..den floor it all you want..
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Old 11-03-2015, 09:38 AM   #57
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The thing is:
If your going to be keeping the car for a long time, Do you want it to start burning oil at 25,000 miles or 200,000 miles? How about the transmission, Do you like it noisy?
A rear that starts making noise to soon sure is annoying.
How about lower compression at an early age.

I'm guessing you never read the owners manual.

THIS IS WHY I WILL NEVER EVER BUY A USED CAR.

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I usually agree with you Ronnie, but about buying used, I prefer it that way. Sure, nothing like that new car smell, but I hate the depreciation I got when I drove the new car/truck from the dealership; ouch!
I've been buying used now for the past 15 years; have not been disappointed yet.
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Old 11-03-2015, 09:43 AM   #58
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Actually this car sees the street more than it does the track. And motor has been in a truck also. Then now in the nova.

Like I said b4, we roll a little different than most people. cars aren't just trailer queens.
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What year Nova? I always wanted a 70 to 72 model; sleeper looking body, but fun to hop up and play.
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Old 11-03-2015, 09:43 AM   #59
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I usually agree with you Ronnie, but about buying used, I prefer it that way. Sure, nothing like that new car smell, but I hate the depreciation I got when I drove the new car/truck from the dealership; ouch!

I've been buying used now for the past 15 years; have not been disappointed yet.

I am the exact reason I don't buy used lol.

I drive the piss out of my cars.
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Old 11-03-2015, 09:55 AM   #60
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I am the exact reason I don't buy used lol.

I drive the piss out of my cars.
I don't baby mine either; my last two F150's had 89K and current one had 109K when I got it. I tow a camper with it now, and drive it daily. Runs like new.
I also take car of them maintenance wise.
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Old 11-03-2015, 01:55 PM   #61
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I like new but then I do usually keep them for at least ten years or more.
The only exception was the Mini because of the dealers $225.00 an hour for repairs after the warranty was up. I did keep it close to five years and got as much as I paid for it on the Mustang. The 3000GT lasted from 94 to 98 when I decided I wanted a Corvette.

There are some cars if I wanted to get has to be used because they just don't make them anymore.

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Old 11-03-2015, 04:59 PM   #62
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I'll give you another opinion about break in; every car and motorcycle I've had over the past 30 years, I always go easy for the first 1000 miles. Yes, I've heard the seat the engine parts and you don't need to stuff too BUT... You want to make sure all your stuff is working well. If it's gonna break, it's likely to do so sooner than later. Service departments are easier to get along with for warranty work if you don't show up with bald rear tires. My 2 cents.
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Old 11-04-2015, 08:13 PM   #63
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Because people seem to be divided in how to break in a new car, I decided to break it in for 2000 miles. In the first 1000 miles, I drove it like a gramma. In the second 1000 miles, I drove it like it was stolen.

The approach seems to work well. My car doesn't burn a drop of oil. My muffler tips are as clean as when they were new.
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