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Old 01-08-2015, 01:56 AM   #36
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Rapinator! I compel you! It is The Lord himself that compels you ! Come forth!


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Old 01-08-2015, 03:12 AM   #37
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Rapinator! I compel you! It is The Lord himself that compels you ! Come forth!


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Old 01-08-2015, 07:45 AM   #38
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You have to throw up the Rap symbol. He's not the hero this forum needs ... he's the one it deserves...


At any rate, in regards to the STS turbos. Its a neat idea on paper, but really falls short in a couple of places.
Thats a LOT of piping, on both the turbine and compressor side. Now, in theory, the air behind simply displaces the air in front, so once you're in boost it should all be fine. That being said, the transient response would likely resemble a turbo that is much larger in size.

Hot exhaust gases are what spool a turbo. Its not just physically the exhaust moving past the turbine, the physical heat energy is what actually spools most of a turbo. By the time the exhaust gets from the headers to the mufflers it has cooled a significant amount. However, in cooling it has also condensed so ... maybe it wont be so bad, i dont know.

Before the days of Oil-less turbos, having to run oil lines from the back of the car to the front was also sketchy ... just a lot of room for things to go wrong. Also, the underside of the car is supposed to be a low pressure zone, i have a feeling the turbo would really struggle for efficiency under there.

I dont know, all in all i guess it would work, but it really just not ideal in many ways. As much as i'm not a fan, for the money, i think i would have to agree on the nitrous kit.
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Old 01-08-2015, 08:58 AM   #39
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I think it was discussed somewhere on here that a 150 shot might be the max on stock internals. I think Rap might know if he shows up. I think you can summon him into threads like Beetlejuice...
As far as I know, nobody has sprayed a 150 shot on a 3.7.

I was going to spray my car and likely would do it on a 150 shot. However, I have had several major issues with my car which has basically stopped the idea of nitrous or further modifications.

I believe a 100 - 125 shot would be 100% safe with a good tune and plugs. A 150 shot may eventually take it's toll on the engine without being a progressive shot or a second stage (75+75 for a 150). However, the cyclone has proven itself to be a rather stout engine so I think, honestly, a straight 150 shot is likely the most you could get away with safely on spray.

You would be looking at around $1500 - $1800 for everything including a tune, assuming you do the work yourself.

A nitrous setup will be hard to beat in the dollar per HP department.
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Old 01-08-2015, 09:28 AM   #40
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AFFORDABLE TURBO FOR 3.7 cyclone V6

So 125 ? Any brand recommendations ?


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Old 01-08-2015, 09:40 AM   #41
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Wet or dry ?


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Old 01-08-2015, 10:06 AM   #42
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Here is a thread I wrote about nitrous, it's a good read if you are new to it or just for a refresher- Nitrous - True Facts


This is the setup I was going to buy-

2011-2014 3.7L V6 Mustang Hard-line Plate System - Ford Systems - EFI Wet Nitrous Systems

X-Series Stage 2 Accessory Package for 4AN Systems - Accessory Packages - Nitrous Accessories

That is everything you will need besides the nitrous fill, colder plugs, window switch (if you are manual) and a tune.
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:27 AM   #43
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Hey, do you mind if i ask that thread to be added to the sticky at the top? We should probably look into a power adder section, and thats a nice thread you got there.
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:31 AM   #44
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I saw a used Vortech setup today on craigslist for 2k

eta just checked and it is for a 4.0 so nevermind
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:38 AM   #45
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Hey, do you mind if i ask that thread to be added to the sticky at the top? We should probably look into a power adder section, and thats a nice thread you got there.
Go for it and add anything to it you think needs to be there.

+1 on the power adder section.
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:51 AM   #46
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eBay has some systems for $400-$500


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Old 01-08-2015, 10:53 AM   #47
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Old 01-08-2015, 12:05 PM   #48
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Will the cyclone handle the nitrous without a built motor ?


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Your engine internals don't really care if the extra 100 horse comes from a turbo or a bottle of nitrous, you just cant spray at too low of an RPM or the engine wont consume it as fast as its coming in. The excess nitrous is what causes problems, and typically only is a problem for beginners or people that got careless.

The thing about a turbo is, you are going to be adding power to the engine all the damn time with it. With nitrous, you might spray it 5 times a month for a WOT pull against some other car in the interstate.
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Old 01-08-2015, 12:08 PM   #49
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So 125 ? Any brand recommendations ?


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I hear the ZEX kit is easy to install. I would go with edelbrock though just because I like the brand and the bottle looks the nicest haha
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Old 01-08-2015, 12:08 PM   #50
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Hmmm, thats not exactly true. The wastegates on most turbos are 100% open when daily driving, by passing the turbine almost entirely. Its almost as if it wasnt there at all. A procharger on the other hand, is constantly building boost, which is being bled off by the bypass valve to avoid the engine actually seeing positive pressure until its requested. If anything, the supercharger is putting more constant wear on the engine, although at daily driving levels its virtually irrelevant.
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Old 01-08-2015, 12:19 PM   #51
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Yeah I guess. As long as you don't daily drive the way I daily drive haha
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Old 01-08-2015, 12:33 PM   #52
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Well yeah, the second you step on either you're boosting, in which case you're right. Its just not "constant" wear. I'll admit i'm anal about minor details like that sometimes :/
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Old 01-08-2015, 06:10 PM   #53
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This is an interesting thread so I will throw my two cents in. I suppose the main downside of NOS is that you only have a few shots available at any given time. I really like having the power available any time I might run across an SS, SRT8, 5.0, Boss, etc. that wants to play. That being said, it does get costly to put together a reliable turbo system you can depend on for an extended period. I have over 25,000 miles on mine and it still performs really well. I only run 7.5 pounds of boost, but totally satisfied with what the car will do. Just had it tuned again this week with the ID injectors, 3.55 gears, and Boost a Pump. It logged 400 HP and 450 Foot pounds of torque. It will spin the 18x275 NItto 555s in third gear. Don't think I need any more.


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Old 01-08-2015, 06:11 PM   #54
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This is an interesting thread so I will throw my two cents in. I suppose the main downside of NOS is that you only have a few shots available at any given time. I really like having the power available any time I might run across an SS, SRT8, 5.0, Boss, etc. that wants to play. That being said, it does get costly to put together a reliable turbo system you can depend on for an extended period. I have over 25,000 miles on mine and it still performs really well. I only run 7.5 pounds of boost, but totally satisfied with what the car will do. Just had it tuned again this week with the ID injectors, 3.55 gears, and Boost a Pump. It logged 400 HP and 450 Foot pounds of torque. It will spin the 18x275 NItto 555s in third gear. Don't think I need any more.


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*nitrous

05 Gt Premium Performance White, flowmaster outlaws, Jlt Series 3, Bama 91r tune
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Old 01-08-2015, 06:24 PM   #55
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*nitrous

05 Gt Premium Performance White, flowmaster outlaws, Jlt Series 3, Bama 91r tune

+1
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Old 01-08-2015, 09:44 PM   #56
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That's what I am likin about the idea of nitrous...I am not putting constant wear on the engine. Only when I want and need.

I am being old by a tuner though that he does not recommend nitrous...because it is not for inexperienced. He says you need to have the gauge with the PSI to make sure the pressure is right, which means bottle heater, which also means purging before use...he advised me against it.

He said it puts stress on the bottom end a lot more than supercharger (which is what he is steering me towards).

Only issue is I do not have 8 grand...

Also...with a micro switch on the pedal or a newer electronic monitoring switch for the throttle, I can make sure it does not fire until I am at full throttle....being conservative with 100 shot and not more, should be ok right ?

Thoughts ?


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Old 01-08-2015, 11:48 PM   #57
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100 shot should be no big deal for a 3.7, assuming it's tuned correctly and used properly.

I have sprayed a 150 shot or more on my 99 Z28 since 2006 with no issue. I know guys who have sprayed 2v 4.6's and Honda's for years on a 100 shot with no issues.

It all comes down to how you use it and how safe your tune is. Get a good tune and use it responsibly and you will have no issues .. except when you need to refill the bottle.
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Old 01-11-2015, 02:07 PM   #58
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But how does the tune work ? Do you need a tune JUST for when you spray ? Then what the rest of the time ?? Change tune out ?

If you are running a good dyno tune to give you great performance daily...and want to add nitrous, what do you do regarding the tune ?
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Old 01-11-2015, 04:08 PM   #59
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But how does the tune work ? Do you need a tune JUST for when you spray ? Then what the rest of the time ?? Change tune out ?

If you are running a good dyno tune to give you great performance daily...and want to add nitrous, what do you do regarding the tune ?
Generally on nitrous, they take your DD tune and basically pull the timing a little just to be safe. You are probably looking at less than a 10 whp difference between a nitrous tune and a regular tune. It also depends on the size of the shot as well.

So for a 150 shot, you may be down 10 whp. On a 100 shot, you might be down 3 whp or they may not pull any.

The numbers are theoretical but in all honesty, less than 10 whp between a standard tune and a nitrous tune are likely for maybe up to 125 -150 shot. You could always disable the nitrous and run your standard tune also, then when going to a track or whatever, load your nitrous tune and enable the nitrous.
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Old 01-12-2015, 01:07 AM   #60
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Gotcha...


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Old 01-12-2015, 01:29 AM   #61
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nitrous is not cheap by any means if you want to put together a good reliable kit..
things you want
window switch
bottle heater
purge kit
bottle opener

none of these accessories are "needed" but here's why you should get them


window switch- allows you to spray the car at a certian rpm and then shut the spray off when the car reachs the rpm you want it to cut out on

bottle heater- a bottle heater is probably the safest way to get your bottle to ideal psi. 900-1200 imo but there are some tricks like running your bottle in hot water

purge kit- you dont need a purge but they are great because they clear the line of unwanted air and allow you to get the hardest nitrous hit possible

bottle opener- unless your bottle is mounted in the front seat where you can open it.. these are pretty useful, say a pesky camaro rolls up and wants to race and you dont have a bottle opener??? what do you do? ask him hey wait let me pop my trunk and open my bottle real quick.. lol nope with just a flick of a witch your bottle is open and you can spray the house down

after all this stuff i was about 2k into my nitrous kit plus it cost 4$ a pound so if you gotta a 10lb bottle thats $40 a fill up and trust me it doesnt last long at all
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