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Old 02-10-2015, 02:13 AM   #1
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Building a track going mustang

I have a 2014 V6 mustang and I was wanting to make it track ready to take it out to a race track, but I'm not to sure what things I should do to it to make it a more suitable track going car. I thought it'd be a good place to start and with time down the road upgrade to a more powerful mustang. So far I have
Roush splitter
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Old 02-10-2015, 06:44 AM   #2
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I can't help answer your question. But I'm digging that offset racing strip. Where did you find that at?


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Old 02-10-2015, 06:51 AM   #3
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Griggsracing.com

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---------- Post added at 06:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:51 AM ----------

Just do it haha

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Old 02-10-2015, 07:50 AM   #4
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Which race track, like road racing, or 1/4? I'm assuming you mean road course, but i'll wait till you respond to write my book haha.
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Old 02-10-2015, 07:55 AM   #5
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Which race track, like road racing, or 1/4? I'm assuming you mean road course, but i'll wait till you respond to write my book haha.
Mustang as a track car.. IDK! Suspension mods and more handling mods lol. Then maybe some power mods. tune would help for throttle response though. Track Tires would help.
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Old 02-10-2015, 08:34 AM   #6
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I got the racing stripe on eBay because it was half the price of what it was on American Muscle and it the same strong Vinyl type. And I was wanting to go on a road going course!
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Old 02-10-2015, 08:41 AM   #7
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What would be the best way to go as in suspension?
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Old 02-10-2015, 08:42 AM   #8
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I got the racing stripe on eBay because it was half the price of what it was on American Muscle and it the same strong Vinyl type. And I was wanting to go on a road going course!
Lower it - Lower Control Arms, Panhard bar, Springs.
Sway Bars - both front and rear.
Tower Brace - Some work, some dont. OEM ford brace on CJ Pony is cheapest, but not sure about full functionality.
Breaks - rotors and pads
Tires - Track tires

That should be a good start for a course with turns and corners.
Now a tune will give you better throttle for cornering. Gears might help!
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Old 02-10-2015, 08:59 AM   #9
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Well, the fiance and i have recently started doing this as well, her in a '14 3.7 and me in a '13 5.0, and i've got some hard advice for you lol.

1. Less is more at this stage. This is something i struggled with (and honestly still do) early on, you just want to buy everything to make your car a racecar! Take a look at it this way though, money no object you could buy the best brakes, which are honestly the factory Brembos for ~$1100, the best coilovers for $4000, and the best rims for tons of money and blah blah blah, and you've spent $15k on a car that is WAY faster than you are ... Take a step back though, and the mustang is actually incredibly competitive with very little work done at all. Honestly, my advice to you for your first time out is 3 simple mods:
1. Brake pads and fluid - you WILL boil the stock fluid and cook the stock pads on a road course, these need to be replaced with a quality DOT 4 and track pad.

2. Brake ducts. Again, your success on a road course comes down to how well your brakes survive the abuse, and i would highly recommend doing them any favors you possibly can. I found a used set on the boss forums for 1/2 off new. Take a look around, the parts are there.

3. If its in the budget, tires. The stock V6 tires are nothing to write home about, and while they will get you around a track, you may have more "fun" with a slightly better tire. This is going to contradict what i say in a minute, but you'll see.

When i say less is more, i truly mean it. My car only had: OEM Boss shocks / struts with ford racing springs, blank rotors (save money, no fancy crap) with carbotech XP10 pads, Ford Racing brake ducts, BMR LCAs and brackets, BMR panhard bar, and some 18 x 10 rims with decent tires. Thats it. Nothing fancy, and done relatively cheap. My fiance's V6 just had my stock GT suspension with Eibach springs, and my stock 18 x 8s with a decent tire and she was doing very well out on track.

Really, if you want to make this a sustainable hobby, you have to find a way to make it affordable. What i would recommend is finding parts that are used: Find you some GT brakes (i found a full set for $170 shipped) and/or some GT suspension, just to give you a mild upgrade and see if this is something you really want to (or can) do. No sense in blowing thousands of dollars up front and then taking a massive hit when trying to sell it all.

Less is more: You have much more to learn (hell, i do too, dont take that personally) about the car right now, and just throwing tons of suspension on it will honestly only make that process harder, which brings me to my next point.

2. Avoid suspension packages. Yup, avoid them like the plague. Understand, suspension does not make your car turn better, there is no such thing as "better," there is only "different." There is no one way to go around a corner, some people prefer a loose car they can rotate, some prefer a tighter car that's very darty, some tracks prefer a tighter car, some can be approached easily by a loose car ... does it make sense how there is not one single piece of suspension you can put on the car and do all of those things "better?" Understand also, what may be good for you, may not be good for me, there are an incredible amount of factors to consider, and ones that after months i am still struggling to master.

Suspension packages also defy any sort of logical scientific testing. If you don't like the way the car turns with the suspension package installed, how do you know which piece to blame? Did you set the sway bars right? Being that they're adjustable both front and rear, you have SEVERAL possibilities, and it will take you several laps on track to notice and appreciate the differences anyways. This makes it a very time consuming and difficult process to dial a car in. For that reason; one change at a time.

Another thing at your level (and hell, even mine, i am still perfecting my line and shift points) is consistency. If you cannot attack a corner at the same rate of speed, at the same apex, same braking zone, time and time again, you have no way to attribute "better" cornering to either new parts, or new found driver experience. It makes it very hard to quantify your results, and you could very well be spending money on parts you don't need. Dont replace parts until the car is holding YOU back, not the other way around.

3. Confidence. I know this is something i struggled with as well. The mustang in stock form is FAST, and much faster than it will lead you to believe. The biggest issue is confidence. If you have massive sticky tires, massive power, you can go into a corner full speed and nothing will go wrong, so you push a little harder ... then a little harder ... then a little harder, and all of the sudden you're going off track at 120+ Because your car was "faster" than you were (skill wise). Take a step back however, and go in with relatively stock grip and power, and take note of how the car responds. My car has talked to me quite a bit when i come into a corner too hot, or try to exit too hot. The rear end will slightly start to slide, or the nose will slightly start to push, and it is much easier to gain a sense for these things at lower speed and grip levels. For that reason, most driving schools will not let novice groups run super sticky tires, they WANT you to blow a few corners so you can see what it feels like and how to control it before you start doing it much faster.


In the end, all i can say is do the bare minimum to get the car out on track: -Some good oils and fluids, some good brake pads, and maybe some brake cooling.
-I'd hold off the mods for now, or just do moderate, cheap upgrades (like OEM boss or GT pieces)
-Avoid any adjustable suspension until you truly have an appreciation for how they will impact the car

Have fun, This is meant to be a stress reliever, not a stress causer, Dont let it become a money pit.
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:23 AM   #10
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Great advice from Volt. Really, you could take the money you were going to spend on the mods you may not need and enter into a driving school.

There you'll learn the basics and probably some more advanced techniques with an experienced instructor, which is invaluable in my opinion.

The biggest thing I think is to respect the car. Don't try to go 10/10ths your first time out. Take it easy, feel out the car.

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Old 02-10-2015, 09:51 AM   #11
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Wow thanks Volt and Joey! I wanted to add a bunch of stuff to my car to "make it better on the track" but after reading all that it really made me think and take a step back on all of that! I wanted to add suspension and all of that.
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:55 AM   #12
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I do too, trust me, its hard lol.

Read this thing front to back too, its been very helpful (and is honestly just a good read), particularly the few years in the archive where they prep and race their red 5.0.

Vorshlag Blog | BMW, Misubishi, Subaru Racing Events, Tech Talk, Parts Specials and more!
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Old 02-10-2015, 10:00 AM   #13
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And I knew that at least I was going to get better stopping brakes and better tires, I want to make it faster too but yeah I'll definitely hold back on that I think it's pretty fast already. but I never thought of better fluids for the car. What kinds of fluid is recommend? And I've never thought of buying used parts either thanks on that I'll look in to it!
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Old 02-10-2015, 10:13 AM   #14
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Well, i'm partial to what i run, but that may not be what everyone agrees with.

I love carbotech pads, but they are not cheap, and they're slightly difficult to run since you have to start with a fresh rotor due to their pad nature.

What i did to try to control costs was have my "race" stuff and my "street" stuff.
This will make your up-front costs very high, but i feel it works out better in the long run. What i did was basically just had a nice cheap set of rims with some good tires on there, as well as my new blank rotors and carbotech pads that would sit in storage until the night before a track day.

This saved wear and tear on my street pieces (as well as run a street friendly pad, track pads squeak like crazy!), but also let me put hands on every part of the car and make sure everything was torqued and buttoned down before heading out on track.

As far as fluids, The motul 600 is a popular choice, i was running amsoil but it was kinda meh, apparently brembo makes a very nice DOT 4. I'm not sure if linking to other forums is frowned upon on here, but since i had a mazdaspeed3 before my mustang i am still active on those forums, and a couple of the guys there gave me some good tips:


If its against the rules to link forums i can copy out the important bits.
Track day prep? - Mazdaspeed Forums

-lol looking back at it now, you can see i was WAY over thinking things, and a few of the vets kind of talked me back to my senses. Code Monkey is a very good friend and we've been doing this together for a few months now, the man speaks the truth, and has a wicked fast mazdaspeed6.
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:06 AM   #15
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Listen to Voltwings. Everything he is saying is great advice.


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Old 02-10-2015, 11:15 AM   #16
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Volt = excellent advice.
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:17 AM   #17
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Thanks guys Glad to know i'm not completely talking out of my *** ... now if one of yall could just talk to my Fiance right quick haha.
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:27 AM   #18
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Thanks for all the advice I'm going to look at all of that and looking up the places to get parts a bit cheaper thanks for all the advice!
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Old 02-10-2015, 11:27 AM   #19
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Thanks guys Glad to know i'm not completely talking out of my *** ... now if one of yall could just talk to my Fiance right quick haha.

She has a 3.7 right? Have her make an account on here!!!


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Old 02-10-2015, 11:31 AM   #20
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She has a 3.7 right? Have her make an account on here!!!


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Lol she's not interested, that's the only reason i'm as active on these forums as i am. She likes wrenching and driving, but the technical side of things doesn't interest her as much as me. She basically just wants to go fast.


Shes in the corner ponies facebook group if you're in there though? If not, i highly suggest it.
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Old 02-10-2015, 02:08 PM   #21
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Corner ponies? I'll look into it. I get banned in most of the mustang pages for voicing an honest opinion about stuff lol


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Old 02-10-2015, 02:26 PM   #22
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I got kicked out of the Coyote Facebook group for the exact same thing haha, insinuating that it's (at the time) 2014 and there is no excuse for stupid questions when you have access to google. Everyone seems to be pretty level headed though, its not like your typical FB group.
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Old 02-10-2015, 02:33 PM   #23
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Someone posted a pic of their car once that looked like straight rice and I said "i personally don't like it, but it's your money so you can do what you want".... Banned.


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Old 02-10-2015, 02:37 PM   #24
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lol, and they dropped the Banhammer.
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Old 02-10-2015, 02:40 PM   #25
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Someone posted a pic of their car once that looked like straight rice and I said "i personally don't like it, but it's your money so you can do what you want".... Banned.


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Probably said that to the creator of the group lol

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Old 02-10-2015, 02:44 PM   #26
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lol, and they dropped the Banhammer.
Well i'm in the Corner Ponies now lol. I recognize a few guys. I follow a lot of what Brett Madsen does. I'm pretty much modeling my car after his Roush.
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Old 02-10-2015, 03:07 PM   #27
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Well, the fiance and i have recently started doing this as well, her in a '14 3.7 and me in a '13 5.0, and i've got some hard advice for you lol.

1. Less is more at this stage. This is something i struggled with (and honestly still do) early on, you just want to buy everything to make your car a racecar! Take a look at it this way though, money no object you could buy the best brakes, which are honestly the factory Brembos for ~$1100, the best coilovers for $4000, and the best rims for tons of money and blah blah blah, and you've spent $15k on a car that is WAY faster than you are ... Take a step back though, and the mustang is actually incredibly competitive with very little work done at all. Honestly, my advice to you for your first time out is 3 simple mods:
1. Brake pads and fluid - you WILL boil the stock fluid and cook the stock pads on a road course, these need to be replaced with a quality DOT 4 and track pad.

2. Brake ducts. Again, your success on a road course comes down to how well your brakes survive the abuse, and i would highly recommend doing them any favors you possibly can. I found a used set on the boss forums for 1/2 off new. Take a look around, the parts are there.

3. If its in the budget, tires. The stock V6 tires are nothing to write home about, and while they will get you around a track, you may have more "fun" with a slightly better tire. This is going to contradict what i say in a minute, but you'll see.

When i say less is more, i truly mean it. My car only had: OEM Boss shocks / struts with ford racing springs, blank rotors (save money, no fancy crap) with carbotech XP10 pads, Ford Racing brake ducts, BMR LCAs and brackets, BMR panhard bar, and some 18 x 10 rims with decent tires. Thats it. Nothing fancy, and done relatively cheap. My fiance's V6 just had my stock GT suspension with Eibach springs, and my stock 18 x 8s with a decent tire and she was doing very well out on track.

Really, if you want to make this a sustainable hobby, you have to find a way to make it affordable. What i would recommend is finding parts that are used: Find you some GT brakes (i found a full set for $170 shipped) and/or some GT suspension, just to give you a mild upgrade and see if this is something you really want to (or can) do. No sense in blowing thousands of dollars up front and then taking a massive hit when trying to sell it all.

Less is more: You have much more to learn (hell, i do too, dont take that personally) about the car right now, and just throwing tons of suspension on it will honestly only make that process harder, which brings me to my next point.

2. Avoid suspension packages. Yup, avoid them like the plague. Understand, suspension does not make your car turn better, there is no such thing as "better," there is only "different." There is no one way to go around a corner, some people prefer a loose car they can rotate, some prefer a tighter car that's very darty, some tracks prefer a tighter car, some can be approached easily by a loose car ... does it make sense how there is not one single piece of suspension you can put on the car and do all of those things "better?" Understand also, what may be good for you, may not be good for me, there are an incredible amount of factors to consider, and ones that after months i am still struggling to master.

Suspension packages also defy any sort of logical scientific testing. If you don't like the way the car turns with the suspension package installed, how do you know which piece to blame? Did you set the sway bars right? Being that they're adjustable both front and rear, you have SEVERAL possibilities, and it will take you several laps on track to notice and appreciate the differences anyways. This makes it a very time consuming and difficult process to dial a car in. For that reason; one change at a time.

Another thing at your level (and hell, even mine, i am still perfecting my line and shift points) is consistency. If you cannot attack a corner at the same rate of speed, at the same apex, same braking zone, time and time again, you have no way to attribute "better" cornering to either new parts, or new found driver experience. It makes it very hard to quantify your results, and you could very well be spending money on parts you don't need. Dont replace parts until the car is holding YOU back, not the other way around.

3. Confidence. I know this is something i struggled with as well. The mustang in stock form is FAST, and much faster than it will lead you to believe. The biggest issue is confidence. If you have massive sticky tires, massive power, you can go into a corner full speed and nothing will go wrong, so you push a little harder ... then a little harder ... then a little harder, and all of the sudden you're going off track at 120+ Because your car was "faster" than you were (skill wise). Take a step back however, and go in with relatively stock grip and power, and take note of how the car responds. My car has talked to me quite a bit when i come into a corner too hot, or try to exit too hot. The rear end will slightly start to slide, or the nose will slightly start to push, and it is much easier to gain a sense for these things at lower speed and grip levels. For that reason, most driving schools will not let novice groups run super sticky tires, they WANT you to blow a few corners so you can see what it feels like and how to control it before you start doing it much faster.


In the end, all i can say is do the bare minimum to get the car out on track: -Some good oils and fluids, some good brake pads, and maybe some brake cooling.
-I'd hold off the mods for now, or just do moderate, cheap upgrades (like OEM boss or GT pieces)
-Avoid any adjustable suspension until you truly have an appreciation for how they will impact the car

Have fun, This is meant to be a stress reliever, not a stress causer, Dont let it become a money pit.

I really like this post, it kinda fine tuned what I thought I would have to do to track the car as well.

One thing I'm curious about is how good are the stock pads? I understand why you should change brake fluid but are the stock pads good enough to run or will they just too hot to work properly?

And by run I mean run a few courses as you sort out your car.


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Old 02-10-2015, 05:46 PM   #28
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Stock pads will fade pretty quickly. You don't need a set of super amazing track pads if you have to double duty your car. But a nice set. I use Hawk HPS pads and i like them.
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Old 02-10-2015, 05:49 PM   #29
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lol, and they dropped the Banhammer.

Hey volt, you're in Houston correct? Where do you go to track your car? I've been interested in this but don't know where to start. I also don't want to look stupid in front of other haha



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Old 02-10-2015, 07:13 PM   #30
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Stock pads will fade pretty quickly. You don't need a set of super amazing track pads if you have to double duty your car. But a nice set. I use Hawk HPS pads and i like them.
Heard those pads are dusty af.. Or am I mistaking them for the other Hawk pads? Lol
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Old 02-10-2015, 07:30 PM   #31
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I really like this post, it kinda fine tuned what I thought I would have to do to track the car as well.

One thing I'm curious about is how good are the stock pads? I understand why you should change brake fluid but are the stock pads good enough to run or will they just too hot to work properly?

And by run I mean run a few courses as you sort out your car.


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Damn, i have looked everywhere for the picture but i cant find it. Basically, after 1 weekend at a high speed track, my virtually new stock pads were ~50% worn, and there were indentions on the back where the piston had melted into them lol ... Its hard on a stock pad, they're just not meant to handle the heat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soccerluvr4 View Post
Stock pads will fade pretty quickly. You don't need a set of super amazing track pads if you have to double duty your car. But a nice set. I use Hawk HPS pads and i like them.
^^ This, my last sessions of the day (when confidence is up and you start pushing) i could tell i was really starting to tax the brakes, and actually had to end one session early.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric e View Post
Hey volt, you're in Houston correct? Where do you go to track your car? I've been interested in this but don't know where to start. I also don't want to look stupid in front of other haha

Katy Texas
Yes, i'm in Sugarland, luckily this places us almost exactly an hour away from MSR Houston and Texas World speedway (while it is still open). I understand its daunting trying to find where to start, but check out the track websites and look for groups hosting various weekends. Our favorite run group so far is the driver's edge, just an all round really good group of guys, and an excellent driving program.

Looks like they're next at MSR at the end of March:

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