Updates. I agree that I don't see clear signs that the pump is indeed bad. I burped the system by filling up to the top line of the cold fill range, idling the engine with the cap off for about 45 minutes and the heater on high. Had my X4 plugged in to monitor coolant temps - didn't go over 205F. Had cardboard under the engine bay, didn't have any drops of coolant on it after I was done. Drove it around just a few miles, coolant temp stayed below 205 still, and I did NOT hear any slushing sound.
Man would it be crazy if there was nothing wrong with it but low coolant. But let's keep this going for a while and see what happens. I'll always keep the X4 plugged in to monitor temps and check the coolant level after each drive. Unfortunately on Friday I jumped the gun and bought those parts from Tasca for $109 + 15 shipping. Didn't get a confirmation that it shipped yet, so there might be time to cancel.
I'll respond to all your comments (thanks for the help, btw!):
Questions:
1. Dont see any mention of a new Water pump gasket? May not need it, or it may just be RTV? Stock one very well may be fine to re-use, but something to keep an eye on.
The pump kit comes with the gasket.
2. See if the new water pump comes with a new pulley. It likely will not, but it will save you a lot of effort, as getting pulleys off (at least on my 3.8) was a pain. Auto parts stores will rent the tools though, so luckily it wont cost anything more than a little extra time.
It does not come with a new pulley, but let's see, hopefully the pump will not end up needing replacement.
3. not trying to insult anyone's intelligence here, but just be familiar with the process of burping the coolant system when you're done, and try to have some means of monitoring coolant temps. Typically you can just have your lap top out and datalogging, while keeping an eye on coolant temps, to make sure they're staying in the desired range.
It's OK, any/all education and information is always appreciated, especially coming from you. :thumb: Yes, I am using my X4 to monitor temps.
I've been searching high and low but nothing on install for 2011-14 3.7L water pumps.
Many water pumps are fairly easy but some can be a real pain. can't find anything on this one. Except maybe this.
"2012 FORD MUSTANG 3.7L V6 : Cooling System : Water Pump Installation Kit $36.79
MOTORCRAFT Part # PW532 {#BR3Z8501D, PW550} Engine Water Pump Pulley Bolt Cover"
I don't have a clue to exactly what it is though.
Thanks for your effort! I actually bought the AllData for my car from alldata.com. This is the same manual that dealers and shops use. $26/month subscription and well worth it! Very detailed instructions and drawings on basically every possible repair and servicing on your vehicle, even has torque specs. I recommend it to anyone who wants to DIY on their car more.
Are the only symptoms the sound?
Did dealer indicate how they determined the water pump needed replacement? Typically: Leaking; bearing noise; lack of circulating flow?
Were you experiencing any overheating? Loss of coolant?
Sounds like maybe air in the system, maybe from that faulty hose.
Are you experiencing any lack of heat from your heater?
Great questions. The symptoms are the sound and the loss of coolant. No other symptoms. But who knows, maybe I got lazy and didn't notice the coolant was low for a while. I remember checking it last time I was a the track, in mid-January, and it was fine then.
^^ I'd look into it more myself. My local ford dealership tried to replace my entire steering rack for a problem that was solved by tightening a loose bolt. They tend to favor the "replace everything and one of those was probably it approach." Makes me mad, but looks like your issue may be more easily solved.
Well there is a chance it might be that kind of thing! We shall see. If just burping the system solves it, I will never go back to that dealer again.
Since the system is typically pressurized, if you had a faulty hose and it was faulty enough to be noticeably losing coolant, id think it would be noticeable ... still though, only other place it could be going is maybe into the combustion chamber somehow, but i seriously doubt you're experiencing a head gasket issue... hmmm
I also doubt that. There would probably be smoke coming out the exhaust or other symptoms too if that was the case.
Water Pump Pulleys just bolt on. Some have 3 Bolts some have 4. No special tool needed.
Now a Power Steering Pump or Harmonic Balancer or Alternator Pulley you need a tool for...but not a water pump. Just make sure when you take the bolts out you number them.
I always start at 12:00 position & number my bolts in clockwise order. The reason you want to do this is you have a variety of bolt lengths from 2" - 4" long. Don't want to put the wrong length bolt in the wrong hole.
A new water pump will have the new gasket in the box with it.
oh yeah...leave the serpentine belt on until you break the bolts loose on the pulley to help stop the pulley from turning. The pulley bolts are all the same. The water pump bolts vary.
Thanks for the tips. I'm hoping they won't be necessary.
After listening to the video...I think your water pump is fine. Check it out anyway to see if there's any leaks. Also try moving the pulley around & see if you feel any play in the shaft.
If you feel play in it the bearings in it are going out. But I don't think that's it.
I think you have a bad coolant hose somewhere that needs to be replaced & then you need to get the air out of the cooling system so it pressurizes right. You might be able to pressurize it by running the car with the radiator cap off & your Heater on High for a good 30 minutes. The water goes through every line that way & the air can escape through the radiator cap hole.
Thanks, done. Let's see if I lose any more coolant or get the sound again now that the system is refilled and burped.