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Old 04-02-2015, 12:13 AM   #1
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max power stock clutch holds

I've been searching all over the web... I can not seem to find how muc oh power the stock clutch will hold up to before slipping. Thanks for any info
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Old 04-02-2015, 07:02 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dubau2 View Post
I've been searching all over the web... I can not seem to find how muc oh power the stock clutch will hold up to before slipping. Thanks for any info
No reference to slipping, but found this...

"In standard trim, these 3.7-liter V6-powered six-speeds are equipped with a clutch that transmits 300 horsepower and 280 foot-pounds of torque. "
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Old 04-02-2015, 07:43 AM   #3
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^^ That's just the factory rated power.

Sadly there's really no cut and dry since id say more than half of a clutches life is dependent on how you drive. How much you slip, rev match, drag race, roll race, how much power you're making ... I'd say if you're boosted you will want to be looking for one sooner rather than later, but at stock or just basic bolt on levels it should be more than ok for quite some time, Drivermod notwithstanding*
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Old 04-02-2015, 08:45 AM   #4
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Driving my fiance's v6 and my 5.0 i would not be surprised if they're slightly different. The 5.0 may have a stronger pressure plate, but i would not be surprised if the friction disc itself is the same. Purely assumption based off driving feel though. ^^ Do you have some links for that information? Dont mean to sound argumentative, just want to check it out.
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Old 04-02-2015, 08:54 AM   #5
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Unfortunately, no, it was a conversation with a few engineers I went to school with, one who works at ford and was on the driveline team, and another at the supplier. I did see on Exedy's website about a year ago that their OEM replacement was the same part number.
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Old 04-02-2015, 09:19 AM   #6
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The question, ..."how much power the stock clutch will hold up to before slipping", only makes sense as a mfgrs rating or some independent testing results on a new clutch.
Slipping as the result of wear or use is altogether different. Hopefully that's not the intent of the question.
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Old 04-02-2015, 09:20 AM   #7
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Again, hate to sound argumentative, but it didn't sound right to me so i checked Tasca Ford. May be minor (if any) differences, but all pieces have different part numbers and costs.

CLUTCH & FLYWHEEL for 2013 Ford Mustang

CLUTCH & FLYWHEEL for 2013 Ford Mustang
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:33 AM   #8
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You are correct, it seems that I had bad information. It is possible to use a 5.0 clutch, if you also install the 5.0 flywheel and hydraulic cylinder spacer (1/2"). The parts cannot be mixed and matched due to the factory dual mass flywheel on the 3.7 (different surface area and clutch bolt pattern). Both flywheels have same crank bolt pattern and starter motor radius.
I think what I saw was that once you go to REPLACE the clutch, they have one part that can fit both engines, but you have to use their single mass flywheel. Let me remove my earlier post to prevent misinformation.
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:37 AM   #9
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max power stock clutch holds

Why is the flywheel for the 5.0 so cheap compared to the 3.7?


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Old 04-02-2015, 10:45 AM   #10
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The factory 5.0 flywheel is single mass, and easier to manufacture than the 3.7's dual mass flywheel. Aftermarket pricing is a function of how many are sold, more 5.0 flywheels are sold, so they are cheaper than the 3.7 specific flywheels (with their six bolt clutch pattern vs the 5.0 eight bolt clutch pattern) which sell less.
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Old 04-03-2015, 12:55 AM   #11
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So I plan on boosting in 2 years or so and want to get my affairs in order. So what would be better a dual mass or the single mass? I would like to put a lighter flywheel on it at the same time.
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Old 04-03-2015, 09:42 AM   #12
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Dual mass soaks up a lot of drivetrain shock, makes driving easier, but at a cost. Literally. On my mazdaspeed3, the OEM dual mass flywheel was ~$1200, and weighed a ton.

Aftermarket aluminum flywheels are light, but they're crude. Typically a little more difficult to drive, dont absorb drivetrain shock as well, and are typically loud. My SPEC (by the way, i dont ever recommend a spec clutch after that thing) clutch and flywheel sounded like the transmission was chewing itself apart. Its called flywheel chatter and is annoying as ****.

I'd go with a lightweight steel flywheel. Wont be the lightest, but will be a little more ... maybe comfortable is the right word.
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Old 04-03-2015, 09:56 PM   #13
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I have been running my twin turbos for over 25,000 miles on a stock clutch. I am making 400 HP and 450 Foot Pounds of torque to the wheels. I don't drag race it but regularly go WOT and it spins the 275/18's (Nitto 555 tires) in second and third with 3.55 gears. The car has 57,000 miles on it.


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Old 04-04-2015, 12:22 PM   #14
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Not to get off topic but you have twin turbos an only make 400rwhp?

Also another question i have thought about replacing mine once it goes out when i put a turbo on should i just get a 5.0 clutch then it seems?

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Old 04-04-2015, 02:07 PM   #15
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[QUOTE=swhitfield2013;2204019]Not to get off topic but you have twin turbos an only make 400rwhp?




Agreed.


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Old 04-04-2015, 02:12 PM   #16
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You can spin 555's on a bicycle

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Old 04-04-2015, 02:13 PM   #17
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max power stock clutch holds

For one he didn't say how much boost he was running. And two the 3.7 is similar to the 4.6 2V in terms of performance. They don't make a lot of hp but they are torque monsters, and 400rwhp is no slouch...


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Old 04-04-2015, 02:40 PM   #18
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I understand that. But there's plenty of people running 450-600 on one turbo and he has two running less than. One turbo on these cars pushing 10lb shud put out over 420-500 depending on the tune. Based on dyno sheets we've seen on here and other sites.


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Old 04-04-2015, 04:34 PM   #19
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OK, just to be a stickler, i'm going to point a couple of things out.

1. Boost is not a direct representative of horsepower, it is merely a measure of resistance between your compressor and cylinder head(s). Obviously, one could assume your basic turbo kits for this platform will all be using around the same sized turbo, so "10 psi" should yield around the same power. That being said, you cant just say "10 psi = x horsepower." Imagine 10 psi from the stock focus ST K03 and 10 psi from a 100mm pro stock turbo... obviously much different.

2. A turbo is not like a supercharger, in that the power really isnt "set in stone." With a supercharger, almost to a fault, people will make X boost and X whp / wtq at X rpm because the compression is consistent and linear. This is not the case with turbos, the powerband - within limits of compressor efficiency is almost infinitely adjustable, WHP and WTQ peaks can be moved to wherever the tuner sees fit.

--- This explains the man's powerband. Small turbos spool fast = lots of torque, but They also (can) struggle to breathe on the top end. This explains why the torque is higher than the horsepower - the turbos in this application are "slightly too small." Now, that serves several purposes, because if you notice, the same can be said for the LPF and bomber kit which also make more torque than horsepower.
Typically on a street car, torque > horsepower. It is much easier to get a jump than it is to play catch up. Secondly, on a car only revving to ~7k or so, you dont want to waste rpm spooling a big turbo that wants to breathe higher up. Its better to just make the torque hit and run with it.

3. Torque is what kills clutches, but with a turbo there again are so many variables. 450 wtq at say 3000 rpms is going to have MUCH more impact on the clutch than say 4000 or 4500. Pushing that torque peak out on a turbo car is better for the life of the motor, clutch, everything.

4. Also, powerband > peak numbers. Lets say one turbo car makes 450 (peak) whp at 5000 rpms and then kind of falls to maybe 400 or so by 7000 rpms. Lets say another car makes 430 whp from 5000 rpms all the way to 7000 rpms. The peak numbers in scenario 2 are lower, but the overall average is much higher - the car with the higher peak numbers is not always faster.


So, to make my whole rant relevant to this thread:
- torque is hard on clutches, turbos make lots of torque
-However, the rpm that torque is made at is a big deal
- how long that torque sustains into the rpm band will also impact clutch life. Does the torque spike and die, or is it flat.
- tires. If you're just lighting the tires up, your car is seeing less load, and therefore so is your clutch.
- gear. torque in 2nd gear is not the same load as torque in 4th gear. When and where you floor it will also impact the load on your clutch.

Full circle answer - there is no answer. No one can say how long your clutch will or wont last at given (boosted) power levels.
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Old 04-04-2015, 08:56 PM   #20
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FYI - I am running 7.5 pounds of boost. I could turn them up to 10, but have elected not to.


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Old 04-04-2015, 09:09 PM   #21
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^ good idea no need to risk damaging something, kind of like pops Porsche has 540hp, it could handle over a 1000, but it burns the tires off already, just unusable power...
In a way there's no point in having a very high hp car, the only place you could use the power is on a track...


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Old 04-05-2015, 12:35 AM   #22
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Didnt mean to sound like a dick just astonished by the returns i dont blame you for running that id do the same although rapinators post made me laugh so hard i cried

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