Aluminum one piece drive shaft - Mustang Evolution

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Old 04-04-2015, 01:52 PM   #1
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Aluminum one piece drive shaft

So today i finally installed the aliminum one piece driveshaft
Not any difference in power or acceleration although i doubted it would i got it for longevity with my 4.10 gears, it drives just the same as before

The real reason i started this thread though is as a warning to others who attempt to install this on their own.

Now dont get my wrong its very possible, i couldve taken all 4 bolts off the rear end but the front end.. thats a whole other story it took my 2 days of literally hours on end with a 12mm wrench and hammer and as many cans of man as i could muster smacking that mother ****** over and over the poblem is yes they are on tight as hell, but the placement, theres no need to remove the exhaust at all but there is a piece of metal that provides support to the end of the transmission that almost completely blocks your ability to use a wrench let alone hit it with a hammer to loosen the bolts after two days of ot being a pain in the *** i took it to a local shop with a lift an power tools to take off the front end bolts

It was a pain in the *** to say the least

So if you plan on doing this yourself make sure you have a lift and power tools otherwise you need to have shoulders the size of someones head to take those front bolts off

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Old 04-05-2015, 10:17 AM   #2
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Did you soak them with pb blaster before trying to remove them? Some heat also helps as well. They have locktite on the bolts, so a little heat would be needed.
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Old 04-05-2015, 02:10 PM   #3
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I mean i put wd40 on like soaked them several times an it was pretty hot out here where i live but it wouldnt budge i also dont have a heat gun hahah i had wd40 a 12mm wrench and a hammer along with car ramps and a scissor lift and 2 ton lift to hold the car up haha

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Old 04-05-2015, 09:44 PM   #4
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I just put my aluminum driveshaft on a couple of weeks ago, and it would be a tough job using just a 12mm wrench. I used a 12 pt, 12mm, 3/8" drive socket with a breaker bar, and it took quite a bit of muscle to break the bolts loose. Once they were broke loose, a ratchet with a 6" extension and u-joint were sufficient to get them the rest of the way out. For me, the most difficult part was getting the new driveshaft extended out to bolt to the flange on the diff. Had to get the bolts started, then tighten each one up a little at a time until it was fully seated in place. I replaced mine with the car on ramps in front and on jack stands in back. I used a beam type torque wrench, and it would have been nice to have the car a few inches higher in the back... had to have the DS in just the right position on each bolt, or the torque wrench hit the concrete before I could get to 75 ft-lbs. But, the job is done. I have noticed just the slightest new vibration between 60-80 MPH... but it is smooth from 80 to the limiter, unlike the stock shaft.
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Old 04-06-2015, 07:29 AM   #5
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I noticed that a bit as well like around 60 to 50 for me though im assuming its the same just due to the 4.10 gears

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Old 04-06-2015, 09:23 AM   #6
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Hello

Which drive shafts did you guys install?

K
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Old 04-06-2015, 09:23 AM   #7
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I've removed the rear when i replaced our 2.73 axle with a 3.55, but i've never messed with the front. Are you talking about the transmission cross brace? I forget how far up that goes, havent been under the car in a while, but you can always just remove that and use a 2x4 with a jack to hold the transmission up. Placement would be awkward with you under the car, but assuming thats the case (for future reference to others) it could be done.
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Old 04-06-2015, 04:07 PM   #8
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Hello

Which drive shafts did you guys install?

K
I put in the drive shaft from Axle Exchange from American Muscle.
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Old 04-06-2015, 09:41 PM   #9
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Any preference on drive shaft brands? I see the AM brand is a 4" and I have heard some people having clearance issues since they are lowered.
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:22 AM   #10
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The 3.5" dynotech is the lightest at 18lbs, the DSS is only a ~8lbs drop from stock but it is the most forgiving in terms of vibration/noise due to pinion angle being anything less than perfect.

Remeber the OEM V6 shaft is only 28-29lbs, it's not the 40+ that the Coyote shaft is.
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Old 04-07-2015, 09:34 PM   #11
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I've removed the rear when i replaced our 2.73 axle with a 3.55, but i've never messed with the front. Are you talking about the transmission cross brace? I forget how far up that goes, havent been under the car in a while, but you can always just remove that and use a 2x4 with a jack to hold the transmission up. Placement would be awkward with you under the car, but assuming thats the case (for future reference to others) it could be done.
The problem was more not the right tools, i couldnt get the car high enough off the ground to make it easy

I dont have 2x4's anywhere near me, but i do believe its the cross brace yes, it just made using the wrench akward and only move an inch or two when loosened, as you can imaging trying to take the bolts off with your bare hands os hard as hell, even when smacking the wrench with a hammer i couldnt get the front ones
(Where the driveshaft connects to the transmission)

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Old 04-08-2015, 07:38 AM   #12
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Mine was done in less then an hour

I bought my driveshaft from Brothers speed shop. I guess they do a lot of them because Dave the mechanic pulled all the tools needed. No air gun was used. He had the car on the lift, The cast iron boat anchor ridiculously heavy stock driveshaft out and the new aluminum one from "AXLE EXCHANGE" installed in a little less then an hour. All the bolts were locktighted and torqued when installed.
I paid around $750 which included the Florida tax and installation.
I don't think it made my car faster but it sure did make it vibration and clunk free. I now can slow my car down just letting off the gas( automatic transmission) which with the stock shaft it would just coast a lot more.
I don't race anymore and don't have a tune and know I probably sure do not need this aluminum driveshaft but after having it installed, I wish I did it a whole lot sooner because it does make my brain feel better.
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Old 04-08-2015, 07:58 AM   #13
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me and a friend did mine on jackstands and ramps and it took aboout 2hours, if you have the right tools its not too hard..
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Old 04-08-2015, 09:58 AM   #14
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Why such an expensive mod for a drive shaft? What exactly does it do for all that money?
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Old 04-08-2015, 10:04 AM   #15
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Why such an expensive mod for a drive shaft? What exactly does it do for all that money?

Removes the clunk as Ronnie stated, and if you're dragging or racing in general, then you don't have to get nervous about the driveshaft failing at 130+ mph. Its a safety precaution really, for peace of mind.


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Old 04-08-2015, 10:47 AM   #16
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Removes the clunk as Ronnie stated, and if you're dragging or racing in general, then you don't have to get nervous about the driveshaft failing at 130+ mph. Its a safety precaution really, for peace of mind.


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The thing you have to remember, the stock driveshaft with OEM gear selections potentially reaches critical shaft rpms around 130 or so mph. When you add taller gears into the mix, that critical shaft rpm happens a lot sooner and could lead a failure at a much lower speed than 130+.

IIRC there was a recommendation out there from one of the big shops on not going over 100-110 with 3.73's or better and the stock DS due to shaft rpms reaching critical limits that much sooner.
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Old 04-09-2015, 03:24 PM   #17
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The thing you have to remember, the stock driveshaft with OEM gear selections potentially reaches critical shaft rpms around 130 or so mph. When you add taller gears into the mix, that critical shaft rpm happens a lot sooner and could lead a failure at a much lower speed than 130+.

IIRC there was a recommendation out there from one of the big shops on not going over 100-110 with 3.73's or better and the stock DS due to shaft rpms reaching critical limits that much sooner.
Since switching to 3.73 I have been terrified of going close to 100 although it can happen very quickly with the gears

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Old 04-17-2015, 12:11 AM   #18
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Since switching to 3.73 I have been terrified of going close to 100 although it can happen very quickly with the gears

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Ive hit 115 a few times with 4.10 gears when i had the two piece driveshaft with no issues, it might be rotating at a higher speed but its also the same load on the driveshaft spoit in half i believe so if you had a load of 1 with 2.00 gears with 4.00 you have a load of 1/2 but youre moving 2 times the distance (revolutions) i believe that might explain the driveshaft handling it

I think the driveshaft limitations are tied to load and revolutions not just revolutions

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Old 04-17-2015, 12:13 AM   #19
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Keep in mind thats a pretty basic hypothesis, just a thought i had when trying to figure out why mine didnt break when pushed like that, it would make sense though with it increasing acceleration as it does but increasing revolutions but decreasing load to provide better pull

Sounds right hahahah

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Old 04-17-2015, 06:51 AM   #20
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Nice hypothesis---BUT---

Some break & Some do not break

If your gonna run hard and fast the aluminum drive shaft is just good insurance against a potential disaster.

It not only offers strength at high speed but it is much lighter - It gets rid of the clunk that some Mustangs have - It gets rid of 100% of the vibration at certain RPM's that some Mustangs have.

The only big problem I have about my Axle Exchange Aluminum drive shaft is this::::
I did not get it soon enough I should have put it on when I very first bought my car.
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Old 04-18-2015, 05:00 PM   #21
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They are lighter, but not much like our Coyote brothers. Stock v6 shaft is 29, the aftermarket aluminum shafts are 18-21 lbs.
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Old 04-18-2015, 05:14 PM   #22
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I purchased my one piece aluminum driveshaft from American Muscle. Its made by the Axle Exchange and my 3.7 is steady at 140 mph. On a private closed road of course and NOT on a public roadway. Really glad I got one!

Have a great day!
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Old 04-18-2015, 05:22 PM   #23
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Lol kona. That's exactly how I tested my 2 piece.
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Old 04-18-2015, 05:24 PM   #24
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Lol kona. That's exactly how I tested my 2 piece.
And how did the 2 piece hold up for ya? lol

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Old 04-18-2015, 08:40 PM   #25
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Hey Kona Blue

ubnbit has a 2007 GT500 which I think has an aluminum driveshaft or may be carbon fiber from the factory.

If he had a 2011 up V6 he would understand the problem a little better.
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Old 04-18-2015, 08:43 PM   #26
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ubnbit has a 2007 GT500 which I think has an aluminum driveshaft or may be carbon fiber from the factory.

If he had a 2011 up V6 he would understand the problem a little better.
Ronnie
Yeah, I saw that on his profile it said he has a Gt500 so that leads me to ask. If he doesn't have a two piece on his Gt500 how did he test his two piece driveshaft like me??????

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Old 04-18-2015, 09:04 PM   #27
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He does have one great looking Mustang.

I just checked out his photo's and I love the Mustang he has.
I'm thinking he just meant that he also got his Mustang up to 140 MPH.
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Old 04-18-2015, 09:07 PM   #28
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When I had my 2 piece it was maxed out alot. Never saw over 150 with me in the car personally. But saw 178 plenty of times on the dyno when it had 3.31's in it. The 5.0 2 piece is completely different from the 3.7 one

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Old 04-18-2015, 09:20 PM   #29
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When I had my 2 piece it was maxed out alot. Never saw over 150 with me in the car personally. But saw 178 plenty of times on the dyno when it had 3.31's in it. The 5.0 2 piece is completely different from the 3.7 one

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I would imagine stronger than the 2 piece the 3.7 has.

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Old 04-20-2015, 04:03 PM   #30
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I was originally only making a funny but I actually meant the part about testing it on a closed course and all that. Lol. But I seriously am afraid to put mine under too much load as I think it too would pop.
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Old 04-29-2015, 01:32 AM   #31
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Good to know, thank you for starting this thread, I will make sure to pay someone to install my driveshaft when I purchase mine to add to my top speed.
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Old 05-06-2015, 12:16 AM   #32
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I installed mine in just over an hour. And that includes running to the parts store. It's really easy if you know what you're doing.

Chuck the front tire. Jack the car up from the rear. Put two jack stands as high as I could get them. Soaked all 8 bolts with wd40. Used a 12pt 12mm socket on a 1/2in socket wrench and 5" extension. Make sure the e brake is engaged and the car is in gear when removing bolts. Took some force to break the bolts free because of the thread lock. Once the two are removed from each side, take the e brake off and out of gear. Spin the shaft 180 degrees to expose the other four. Engage ebrake and put back in gear. Same procedure as before. The shaft won't fall right out. I had to take a rubber mallet and a flat head screwdriver and work some magic until it was loose. Slipped out out the rear between the exhaust. Slipped the new one in. Make sure to use some thread locker when reinstalling bolts. Torque to 76ft lbs.


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Old 05-06-2015, 12:21 AM   #33
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No problem glad i could help as for mean14 its has nothing to do with knowledge a nutless monkey could do it, its the fact you are going to need more clearance than most jacks plus ramps offer as well as the fact that with out the proper wrenches its virtually impossible if you have a lift an some torque wrenches more power to you but for those of us who dont have access to things like that this thread serves as a warning that yes you can get the rear bolts off, i did with the little bit i had but the part on the transmission isnt gonna happen there just isnt enough room to muscle it

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Old 05-06-2015, 12:23 AM   #34
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Btw theres literally a pdf with pictures for the install its all spelled out on american muscle its very helpful

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Old 05-06-2015, 07:08 AM   #35
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Not bad to install if it is complete

The only problem I can see and it may not be a problem is if the drive shaft that is not complete and you have to remove something from the differential or someplace to install it.
I can't remember which brand it was. Maybe somebody has one and can chime in.
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