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Old 04-28-2015, 04:26 PM   #1
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Breaking Into 12's

So since Ive started going to the drags more and more Ive gotten addicted.. After besting many cars I thought were faster such as a Evo(Not sure what year) on 28pounds of boost and countless v8's (2007 GT longtubes, tune, stock 355's. Charger, Challenger.. Etc.) Im stuck in the low to mid 13's. What can I do to get closer or into the 12's?? I have tried 275's and different tires and It made my time slower, which I was surpriced! Please post any thing that you think would help me get to my goal. All the stuff I have is in my sig. Please dont say forced induction lol. Thanks!
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Old 04-28-2015, 05:10 PM   #2
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maybe work on getting your car's center of gravity lowered. Lowering springs and some better shocks and struts to match the damper. Ever thought about a TLOK? Do you experience alot of wheel spin at take off?
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Old 04-28-2015, 05:11 PM   #3
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Maybe 4.10 gears? With those sticky tires it might help utilize the grip better,

more advanced timing on your tune

Look up ecu tuning online and read up books, learn about angular timing ect to double check your tune

Nitrous

Rear seat delete if you havent already

Look up fiberglass molding and rebuild your body panels with carbon fiber (its actually not too hard ive done it)

Get an ecomodder.com account i got one for electrical engineering interest but learned a lot of the things they do help lower air resistance and reduce drag

Rear wheel wheel covers much like on the weird looking civics

Boat tail rear end, its ugly as hell but significantly reduces drag,

Cut out your a/c

Remove all accessories ie drag on the engine

Get carbon fiber doors and trunk

Calculate to make sure youre power to tire ratio is good for what youre aiming for

Theres a ton you can do its mostly up to what youre willing to sacrifice in most cases weight reduction and drag reduction are amazingly helpful most people dont think of them as much as they do for gears an hp but much more comes into play, but weight and drag reduction make your car less comfortable and especially with the boat tail ugly as ****

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Old 04-28-2015, 05:36 PM   #4
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Aluminum driveshaft
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Old 04-28-2015, 05:47 PM   #5
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just pull the interior. Usually front and rear seats and trunk crap is worth 100 lbs or so
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Old 04-28-2015, 06:02 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
just pull the interior. Usually front and rear seats and trunk crap is worth 100 lbs or so
How much do you think that should take off? .1 Or less?
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Old 04-28-2015, 06:03 PM   #7
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Aluminum driveshaft
Thats on my list for when i make booku bucks lol
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Old 04-28-2015, 06:30 PM   #8
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Remove your spare, rear seat, and get the drive shaft.
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Old 04-28-2015, 06:40 PM   #9
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How much do you think that should take off? .1 Or less?
IIRC, every 100lbs is worth about a tenth.
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Old 04-28-2015, 06:44 PM   #10
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IIRC, every 100lbs is worth about a tenth.
Damn thats a good deal! Ill try to do that and then brake boost my way to the 12's. Ill try it this friday hopfuly if weather and work permit it.
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Old 04-28-2015, 06:54 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by swhitfield2013 View Post
Maybe 4.10 gears? With those sticky tires it might help utilize the grip better,

more advanced timing on your tune

Look up ecu tuning online and read up books, learn about angular timing ect to double check your tune

Nitrous

Rear seat delete if you havent already

Look up fiberglass molding and rebuild your body panels with carbon fiber (its actually not too hard ive done it)

Get an ecomodder.com account i got one for electrical engineering interest but learned a lot of the things they do help lower air resistance and reduce drag

Rear wheel wheel covers much like on the weird looking civics

Boat tail rear end, its ugly as hell but significantly reduces drag,

Cut out your a/c

Remove all accessories ie drag on the engine

Get carbon fiber doors and trunk

Calculate to make sure youre power to tire ratio is good for what youre aiming for

Theres a ton you can do its mostly up to what youre willing to sacrifice in most cases weight reduction and drag reduction are amazingly helpful most people dont think of them as much as they do for gears an hp but much more comes into play, but weight and drag reduction make your car less comfortable and especially with the boat tail ugly as ****

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Quote:
Originally Posted by swhitfield2013 View Post
Maybe 4.10 gears? With those sticky tires it might help utilize the grip better,

more advanced timing on your tune

Look up ecu tuning online and read up books, learn about angular timing ect to double check your tune

Nitrous

Rear seat delete if you havent already

Look up fiberglass molding and rebuild your body panels with carbon fiber (its actually not too hard ive done it)

Get an ecomodder.com account i got one for electrical engineering interest but learned a lot of the things they do help lower air resistance and reduce drag

Rear wheel wheel covers much like on the weird looking civics

Boat tail rear end, its ugly as hell but significantly reduces drag,

Cut out your a/c

Remove all accessories ie drag on the engine

Get carbon fiber doors and trunk

Calculate to make sure youre power to tire ratio is good for what youre aiming for

Theres a ton you can do its mostly up to what youre willing to sacrifice in most cases weight reduction and drag reduction are amazingly helpful most people dont think of them as much as they do for gears an hp but much more comes into play, but weight and drag reduction make your car less comfortable and especially with the boat tail ugly as ****

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Good advice. But that would be the last thing he'd want to do at this point.Those are "race car" parts, for lack of a better phrase.



I apologize in advance if the OP already has some of this stuff done, I can't see your signature on my phone :p
I think you should start out with all the bolton mods (if he plans on staying NA, port your intake manifold, and focus on suspension.

Everyone loves to talk about engine mods, but they ignore suspension.
Lowering the car (springs only) will kill your 60 foot and make you slower.
Your pinion angle and lca angle will be way off...

As far as suspension goes, I'd recommend
-A good set of struts/shocks (koni yellows, for example)
- Set of springs, but nothing too low (too low will kill your 60 ft)
-lcas with relocation brackets
- uca with relo bracket (I personally prefer a torque arm. But most people don't know what it is, and don't want to spend 1k on it.)
-phb will center your rear axle after you lower it


The list goes on and on, but that's a good starting point for suspension.

My best advice that I can give you is don't be cheap. An overwhelming number of mustang owners love to do stuff the cheap way, and it does nothing but hurt them in the long run. Look into it before purchasing, and ask lots of questions

Good luck! Hopefully you'll get into the 12s soon!

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Old 04-28-2015, 06:54 PM   #12
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Lcas w/relo brackets

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Old 04-28-2015, 06:55 PM   #13
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Just spray her.


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Old 04-28-2015, 07:28 PM   #14
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Aluminum driveshaft
Aluminum drive shaft on the v6 actually only drops a couple pounds an isnt much if any smaller its not actually a performance mod but a safety mod

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Old 04-28-2015, 07:55 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by RaceRed3.7 View Post
How much do you think that should take off? .1 Or less?
100 lbs is usually good for .1 to .2, but when you're reaching the limit those are your gains, gets harder to shave off time.
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Old 04-28-2015, 08:00 PM   #16
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Would be easier to help if we saw some time slips so we can see where you need improvement......................................................
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Old 04-28-2015, 08:06 PM   #17
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Good advice. But that would be the last thing he'd want to do at this point.Those are "race car" parts, for lack of a better phrase.



I apologize in advance if the OP already has some of this stuff done, I can't see your signature on my phone :p
I think you should start out with all the bolton mods (if he plans on staying NA, port your intake manifold, and focus on suspension.

Everyone loves to talk about engine mods, but they ignore suspension.
Lowering the car (springs only) will kill your 60 foot and make you slower.
Your pinion angle and lca angle will be way off...

As far as suspension goes, I'd recommend
-A good set of struts/shocks (koni yellows, for example)
- Set of springs, but nothing too low (too low will kill your 60 ft)
-lcas with relocation brackets
- uca with relo bracket (I personally prefer a torque arm. But most people don't know what it is, and don't want to spend 1k on it.)
-phb will center your rear axle after you lower it


The list goes on and on, but that's a good starting point for suspension.

My best advice that I can give you is don't be cheap. An overwhelming number of mustang owners love to do stuff the cheap way, and it does nothing but hurt them in the long run. Look into it before purchasing, and ask lots of questions

Good luck! Hopefully you'll get into the 12s soon!

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Ya im not big on drag racing im more of a drifting and track type, but as for drag you can actually gain 6mpg with rear wheel covers, not sure what that translates to in acceleration if anything but thats just a minor change gutting the car would be good

Ive got a buddy hes big into drag racing out here his car looks like they didnt finish building it from the factory cause there is literally nothing inside it except a few extra bars and one seat haha the weight reduction and suspension mods are a good bet

Although as said before as you reach the pinnacle of your performance even drastic mods wont change your time much

Or go balls deep an drop custom twin turbos lmao

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Old 04-28-2015, 08:08 PM   #18
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Not sure if iy will actually help but i heard from a buddy he completely took off the intake on his accord to make it faster said he gets better power 😂 you could try that go straight throttle body to the open air haha

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Old 04-28-2015, 08:15 PM   #19
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Not sure if iy will actually help but i heard from a buddy he completely took off the intake on his accord to make it faster said he gets better power 😂 you could try that go straight throttle body to the open air haha

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That is by far the most retarded thing you can do to the car.

Did he actually take the intake off or did he go ITBs? (Independent Throttle bodies).
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Old 04-28-2015, 08:19 PM   #20
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lol right, **** the MAF, weight reduction. Unless it was speed density tuned, but umm... i doubt that.
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Old 04-28-2015, 08:20 PM   #21
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Not sure if iy will actually help but i heard from a buddy he completely took off the intake on his accord to make it faster said he gets better power 😂 you could try that go straight throttle body to the open air haha

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I doubt pulling an intake and pulling in hot air right by the TB is going to increase HP. The only way that is really going to work is if its turbo in which case you would have a filter right off the turbo but its canceled because the air goes through the intercooler.

And to the OP, when you had your stock tires were you spinning much? If not it may help to put the stock 225 tires on. Adding heavier/ wider tires is going to slow the car down unless you have traction issues.
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Old 04-28-2015, 08:28 PM   #22
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or put the stock tires back in the front, a cheater bigs and littles set up
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Old 04-28-2015, 09:03 PM   #23
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I doubt pulling an intake and pulling in hot air right by the TB is going to increase HP. The only way that is really going to work is if its turbo in which case you would have a filter right off the turbo but its canceled because the air goes through the intercooler.

And to the OP, when you had your stock tires were you spinning much? If not it may help to put the stock 225 tires on. Adding heavier/ wider tires is going to slow the car down unless you have traction issues.
Ya next time I buy tires im gonna go 225 55 17. I have stock 215 65. I had 275 35 18 and they sucked for some reason..
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or put the stock tires back in the front, a cheater bigs and littles set up
Just sold my whole 275 on 18s setup due to lateral force being to high because of the rim not being fully round. Could really feel the vibrations last 70.. Sucked! Only out $40 though so no biggie
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Old 04-28-2015, 09:05 PM   #24
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lol right, **** the MAF, weight reduction. Unless it was speed density tuned, but umm... i doubt that.
Maf, O2 sensors, and knock sensors all make excellent paper weights according to my old tuner

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Old 04-28-2015, 09:08 PM   #25
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Calculate to make sure youre power to tire ratio is good for what youre aiming for

How do you calculate that ratio?
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Old 04-28-2015, 09:09 PM   #26
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Check the specs on the Roto girder also while your under the hood prepping it to run straight throttle body. Lol
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Old 04-29-2015, 12:19 AM   #27
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too many things factor into this....
1. where are you located? DA plays a big part in track times out here in New Mexico a full bolt on tuned V6 won't break into the 13's

2. Stickey tires and 15x10's... if your a stick car... a bias ply will work well 28x10.5-15 if your an auto car you will be good with DR's something like ET streets

3. work on getting a good 60ft thats key..
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Old 04-29-2015, 07:56 AM   #28
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too many things factor into this....
1. where are you located? DA plays a big part in track times out here in New Mexico a full bolt on tuned V6 won't break into the 13's

2. Stickey tires and 15x10's... if your a stick car... a bias ply will work well 28x10.5-15 if your an auto car you will be good with DR's something like ET streets

3. work on getting a good 60ft thats key..
I live in Oklahoma, I really want some daily driver wheels that are good for both drags and street. Big tires seem to be the best option; I mean the wall not the width. It seems the thicker the tire the better. I tried a wide tire and it was terrible!(275-35-18) I wanna try 15's with big tires seems like it would help a ton!
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Old 04-29-2015, 08:37 AM   #29
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So big question is.... what are your 60' times currently?
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Old 04-29-2015, 08:58 AM   #30
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So big question is.... what are your 60' times currently?
2.077 was my best with stock wheels. Going back this weekend to try and master it with the stock wheels by using proper brake boosting hopefully it works out! Gonna be tricky.
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:01 AM   #31
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Brake boosting? You look to be all motor, so i can tell you it wont work, but I tried this on my Fiance's auto:

3.73 gears, 275 nittos, LCAs and brackets, PHB, her car was set up right, and i'd leave off idle, stage to 1500, 2000, 2500 ... no difference, 2.0x 60' every time. I dont think the stock converter is going to let you get off the line much harder than you are now.
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:07 AM   #32
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Brake boosting? You look to be all motor, so i can tell you it wont work, but I tried this on my Fiance's auto:

3.73 gears, 275 nittos, LCAs and brackets, PHB, her car was set up right, and i'd leave off idle, stage to 1500, 2000, 2500 ... no difference, 2.0x 60' every time. I don't think the stock converter is going to let you get off the line much harder than you are now.
Got ya! Thanks! So its best just to floor it when Its about to turn green
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:14 AM   #33
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pretty much, at least in my experience. Look into MPT's E85 tune if you have that option, we ran it on Valerie's car at the road course and there was a noticeable torque increase. Not so much HP gain, maybe 5-7, 10 at BEST, but the midrange was much fatter. May make getting off the line a bit easier, and it looks like thats where most of your time to gain is.

E85 also runs significantly cooler, so it may keep you more consistent throughout the night.
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:25 AM   #34
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pretty much, at least in my experience. Look into MPT's E85 tune if you have that option, we ran it on Valerie's car at the road course and there was a noticeable torque increase. Not so much HP gain, maybe 5-7, 10 at BEST, but the midrange was much fatter. May make getting off the line a bit easier, and it looks like thats where most of your time to gain is.

E85 also runs significantly cooler, so it may keep you more consistent throughout the night.
I remember seeing a post about this. Is it a half half blend or what? e85 is everywhere around here. I just can't datalog for MPT so if I am required to I don't have a laptop :/ Honestly though I would not have any problem running e85 on the daily. Sounds like a good route to go, Ill look into it a bit more.
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:28 AM   #35
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Yes, it runs 50/50. Best of both worlds, in that 93 has more BTU (power potential) than e85, but e85 obviously has much higher knock suppression. I'd try to meet up with a local and maybe datalog with their computer?
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