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Old 05-08-2015, 03:49 PM   #36
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Yes that's a great start. I would recommend getting the UCA mount as well because I've read countless posts about clunking because people use the stock mount. The pro kit doesn't drop the v6s tremendously so you may not even need camber bolts/plates.


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Old 05-08-2015, 03:52 PM   #37
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Yea, I am looking for a .5-1" drop. Nothing outrageous. So what about the GT500 Strut Mounts?
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Old 05-08-2015, 03:55 PM   #38
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Ah, yeah I would recommend getting those too. You can run the stock mounts for awhile, but eventually it will start clunking.


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Old 05-08-2015, 04:00 PM   #39
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Unless the Eibach dampers don't call for them. I've never ran them. I know the frpp ones need the mounts which I have. So maybe it's different


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Old 05-08-2015, 04:23 PM   #40
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Well they are only like $100. So I might just pick them up when I do this.
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Old 05-08-2015, 04:29 PM   #41
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True. Best to do it right the first time


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Old 05-09-2015, 12:44 PM   #42
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Huge thanks to Tangster in the 11-14 GT Forum for showing me Brembos CAN be used with the V6 PP wheels. Many thanks to everyone else who has worked with me on finding/helping locate info on this, such as Voltwings, Socal Stangman, AMAlex, and many others.

Just needs some 1/2" spacers and 3 inch studs. In case anyone else is wanting to do this to their Performance Pack V6 or GT/CS. As they have the same rims but the color is different.

Here is the thread on the GT side: Brembo Brakes w/ GT/CS or V6 PP Rims

The photo is not mine, it is one of Tangster's old pics of his 2014 V6.
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Old 05-09-2015, 12:49 PM   #43
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I wish this find could be saved somewhere. As this info is NOWHERE else on the internet and if someone wants to do this in the future, I fear it may get lost in the millions of threads.
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Old 05-09-2015, 12:52 PM   #44
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I had a set on my car, but after coming across a few reports of them breaking i decided to take them out. My car was dropped ~1", and i was still able to get aligned within factory spec without them.

What type of brake upgrades are you planning on doing?

Sketch. Why do they break? Im getting the sport system plus. Says only 1.1" in the front
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Old 05-10-2015, 08:13 AM   #45
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I wish this find could be saved somewhere. As this info is NOWHERE else on the internet and if someone wants to do this in the future, I fear it may get lost in the millions of threads.
I usually file reference to good info like this away on my PC, for future retrieval if needed.
What I don't understand is why American Muscle says that kit fits a V6, with the only reservation being that it requires 18" or larger rims for proper clearance.
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:42 AM   #46
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Say I choose not to lower the car. And instead, add in BMR control arms (upper and lower) to tighten up the rear. Will they work with stock brackets or will I need new ones?

Because I would rather just stiffen the existing suspension and use the difference for better rims and tires. Because the V6 PP ones are god awful looking. They look like abnormal bladed rims. One guy asked me if I was "Choppin up the block" with them -_-
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Old 05-12-2015, 10:04 AM   #47
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aftermarket UCAs are known to cause a noticeable "clunk" when used with the stock UCA mount, may want to throw a new mount in there as well lol ... stuff adds up quick.
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Old 05-12-2015, 10:13 AM   #48
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aftermarket UCAs are known to cause a noticeable "clunk" when used with the stock UCA mount, may want to throw a new mount in there as well lol ... stuff adds up quick.

Oh man definitely Just trying to find the right balance of stuff. I will have 3000-3500 to spend. I REALLY want to drop the stock junk rims.

At this moment this is what I have decided on. I assume I will need an alignment by then as my car will hit the 1 yr mark and Austin roads are crud. I will let the tire shop handle swapping my existing tires to the new rims along with new TPMS sensors if needed.,

I can probably add about $500 to this list and still be comfortable. What do you think could also give me a bit more bang for my buck? I am going 3.55s because I still do alot of highway driving. The spacers with studs are to clear for Brembo's because the new rims will still only be 8.5s and I am going to be cheap in a sense and reuse my existing rubber
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Old 05-12-2015, 03:11 PM   #49
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Last week I had installed a new BMR adjustable upper control arm with the bracket and I had a nice clunk sound. Then I remember my pinion angle would be which it was and then I had that adjusted which seemed to resolve my clunk issue some what. I can still hear it slightly but that's if I want to hear it. Other than that the car handles like a monster now with my lower controls as well!


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Old 05-12-2015, 03:14 PM   #50
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Is everything pretty simple to dial in yourself or is it a must to take it in to a shop?
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Old 05-12-2015, 03:20 PM   #51
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really nothing should need to be "dialed in." Just an alignment is really all that should be needed.


unless you do decide to get the UCA and adjust your pinion angle, i cant keep up with what you're actually getting at this point haha. In which case, you'll need an angle dial, and likely can get it done in an afternoon on some jackstands, though i imagine it will take some trial and error. Most rates are proper suspension shops (and i would want that job done by a proper suspension shops) are ~$80-100 an hour, so theres that to factor in some effort haha.
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Old 05-12-2015, 03:30 PM   #52
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Sorry. I was referring to the panhard and pinion angle. I believe someone mentioned on here that eye'ing the panhard portion you can get close enough on.
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Old 05-12-2015, 03:30 PM   #53
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Stole this from Kelly @ BMR off another forum
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Old 05-12-2015, 03:35 PM   #54
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Pinion isn't that hard to do but I just took it to ford and they set it for me. Paid them $35 to do it so not bad


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Old 05-12-2015, 03:41 PM   #55
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You have a lot of faith in the dealership. I am OCD with my mods, and have had bad experiences with dealerships in the past. My apologies to anyone who is a tech here, but my basic assertion of the techs around here is their job is more knowing how to read a tech bulletin than knowing how to work on cars. Seen some really just ... piss poor excuses of jobs done. I honestly blame flag hours though... if how much you get paid depends on how quickly you go, you're encouraged to rush things.

At any rate, Rant over.
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Old 05-12-2015, 03:45 PM   #56
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You have a lot of faith in the dealership. I am OCD with my mods, and have had bad experiences with dealerships in the past. My apologies to anyone who is a tech here, but my basic assertion of the techs around here is their job is more knowing how to read a tech bulletin than knowing how to work on cars. Seen some really just ... piss poor excuses of jobs done. I honestly blame flag hours though... if how much you get paid depends on how quickly you go, you're encouraged to rush things.

At any rate, Rant over.
Very true. I took my old 3000GT to Bring Your Own Parts in San Antonio and they damn near totalled my engine. The guy did not know how to time a DOHC even though they gauranteed it. Ended up taking it to another shop.

This is just my thought of shop techs in general. Unless they have ALOT of good reviews I will work with them. I will give them a small job at first and if they impress, then I will take my car to them for a bit higher difficulty items.

Most stuff I do myself or I have a family member who is a Ford tech that does his own work (Has his own shop in his backyard with a lift and everything).
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Old 05-12-2015, 03:49 PM   #57
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You have a lot of faith in the dealership. I am OCD with my mods, and have had bad experiences with dealerships in the past. My apologies to anyone who is a tech here, but my basic assertion of the techs around here is their job is more knowing how to read a tech bulletin than knowing how to work on cars. Seen some really just ... piss poor excuses of jobs done. I honestly blame flag hours though... if how much you get paid depends on how quickly you go, you're encouraged to rush things.

At any rate, Rant over.

The techs at my dealership actually know me in real life haha. They know when I bring my car in to do the work right


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Old 05-12-2015, 03:54 PM   #58
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The techs at my dealership actually know me in real life haha. They know when I bring my car in to do the work right


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Do you know what they set the pinion angle to?
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Old 05-12-2015, 04:01 PM   #59
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Oh man definitely Just trying to find the right balance of stuff. I will have 3000-3500 to spend. I REALLY want to drop the stock junk rims.

At this moment this is what I have decided on. I assume I will need an alignment by then as my car will hit the 1 yr mark and Austin roads are crud. I will let the tire shop handle swapping my existing tires to the new rims along with new TPMS sensors if needed.,

I can probably add about $500 to this list and still be comfortable. What do you think could also give me a bit more bang for my buck? I am going 3.55s because I still do alot of highway driving. The spacers with studs are to clear for Brembo's because the new rims will still only be 8.5s and I am going to be cheap in a sense and reuse my existing rubber
Kevin...a couple of questions for you.
Did you happen to (try to) compare weights between the rims you have and the rims you plan on getting?
Your wish list shows 1" spacers. As I recall the fellow that helped you out on the clearance question used 1/2". Was this change due to a difference with you proposed wheels?
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Old 05-12-2015, 04:20 PM   #60
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To be honest, Idk if I am even going to get the wheels. I still have 4 months before I do all of this work. I am still open for opinions. At this point, it is either the suspension, or the wheels. I have the headers, gears will be ordered by the end of the month.

It is an all in 1 solution as far as spacers go. And it will give me plenty of clearence just in case anything is a tad off. I know I will have about a ~.5 inches or so of clearence even after. Which is ok to me.

Sorry, I had the wrong spacers on that list: Eibach Pro-Spacer Hubcentric Mustang Wheel Spacers - 25mm - Pair 90.4.25.010.3 (94-14 All) - Free Shipping

With my stock setup, I have about the same clearence. AM has a picture of a GT/CS with the the same type of wheels as my and it looks fine with these. They sit kind of flush with the outside body which isn't bad in my opinion (as far as looks).

I am between those or buying the spacers from Tangster. If I get them from Tangster, I need open ended lugs and studs for the rear (I would want all of the wheels to line up, having the front out further then the back would look odd imo). And I am not super familiar with this stuff to find really good quality stuff for cheap (and it be correct!)

As far as weight, looks like AM doesn't list the weight of this rim
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Old 05-12-2015, 04:26 PM   #61
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I mean, I really like the Brembos and would love the upgrade. But it is such a headache figuring this out that I am about to get caliper covers and the Brakestop kit off AM and call it a day. LMAO! Not as appealing IMO but it would seem the easy way out.
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Old 05-12-2015, 04:27 PM   #62
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Hey man. Sorry for saying but you should read diy's and watch YouTube videos and attempt some of this yourself. What better way to get to know your car, get a feeling of accomplishment, and save money all in one?
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Old 05-12-2015, 04:34 PM   #63
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I will be doing some of this myself and working with my wife's uncle. He has a lift so we will be dedicating an entire weekend to this in the fall. I do most of the stuff on my car by myself. I did the mufflers, driveshaft, Premium conversion, puddle lamps, etc by myself. I have several threads on here with stuff I have done and posted info to help others.

Are you trolling me right now? lol

I just want to make sure I buy everything right the first time. Because once I drive 3 hours to work on this, I don't want to miss something and then drive back to only wait another 2 weeks for shipping and stuff so I can try this again.
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Old 05-12-2015, 04:47 PM   #64
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Do you know what they set the pinion angle to?

I'll get back to you on that but I think they just did a -2 pinion angle or something like that


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Old 05-12-2015, 04:58 PM   #65
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I will be doing some of this myself and working with my wife's uncle. He has a lift so we will be dedicating an entire weekend to this in the fall. I do most of the stuff on my car by myself. I did the mufflers, driveshaft, Premium conversion, puddle lamps, etc by myself. I have several threads on here with stuff I have done and posted info to help others.

Are you trolling me right now? lol

I just want to make sure I buy everything right the first time. Because once I drive 3 hours to work on this, I don't want to miss something and then drive back to only wait another 2 weeks for shipping and stuff so I can try this again.
Hey I don't blame you a bit for taking your time. "Measure 3 times and cut once."
Just thinking about your front brakes. You do know you have the 13.2" rotors, same as the GT, on your PP with auto. That's already a step up from the standard V6 brakes.
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Old 05-12-2015, 05:13 PM   #66
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Hey I don't blame you a bit for taking your time. "Measure 3 times and cut once."
Just thinking about your front brakes. You do know you have the 13.2" rotors, same as the GT, on your PP with auto. That's already a step up from the standard V6 brakes.

I know. Like I mentioned to Voltwings, I will usually let myself splurge twice a year or so on whatever. Lately it has been my car.

So last year it was the down payment on my car. Then at the beginning of the year, it was everything needed to convert my Base into a Premium, bbk throttle body, airaid cai, tuner, driveshaft, spoiler, louvers, etc.

This time around, I am alotting myself 3-4k (labor included, I don't wanna have my wife's uncle help me and not reimburse him. So 500-600 will suffice).

I got the headers and Gears will be on there way soon. So I have about 3K left. Wanting to get the Brembo kit and get everything for the Suspension. Wheels would be nice to have but with spacers, they are not a must (tires only have 8k miles on them).

So since I have the money to get something I want, I figured why not buy it? And I have always liked how the Brembos looked. Would be nice to be one of the few V6s with them for a touch of uniqueness Any additional stopping power is just a bonus.
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Old 05-12-2015, 05:18 PM   #67
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Say I choose not to lower the car. And instead, add in BMR control arms (upper and lower) to tighten up the rear. Will they work with stock brackets or will I need new ones?

Because I would rather just stiffen the existing suspension and use the difference for better rims and tires. Because the V6 PP ones are god awful looking. They look like abnormal bladed rims. One guy asked me if I was "Choppin up the block" with them -_-
Lower it, it will be worth it. I did the Pro Kit and for a DD its perfect. I never bottom out or scrape. I have some pretty big speed bumps where I work and I can go over them pretty fast with out an issue.
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Old 05-12-2015, 05:23 PM   #68
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Lower it, it will be worth it. I did the Pro Kit and for a DD its perfect. I never bottom out or scrape. I have some pretty big speed bumps where I work and I can go over them pretty fast with out an issue.

I think that is what I am going to do ultimately. I am sure everyone knows when you got money, your mind goes back and forth about a million times before you buy the stuff.

But mainly I just want to make sure I get the right stuff the first time. So I am looking for reviews, pics, etc to see what others thought. After today, I think I have my list. Car will be a solid street performer.
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:05 PM   #69
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Hey I don't blame you a bit for taking your time. "Measure 3 times and cut once."
Just thinking about your front brakes. You do know you have the 13.2" rotors, same as the GT, on your PP with auto. That's already a step up from the standard V6 brakes.
I see this said a lot, but I would suggest measuring. The pp v6 my buddy had had 12.6" rotors.
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:18 PM   #70
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I see this said a lot, but I would suggest measuring. The pp v6 my buddy had had 12.6" rotors.

Gonna go check right now.
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