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Old 05-17-2015, 08:02 PM   #71
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How hard was the Roush splitter install? Did you cut your factory splitter?
I did Pretzel. The online videos had me nervous. It looked easy but felt very final and exacting when watching. When the moment of truth came, it is FAR easier than it looks. You are cutting to make room for the Roush to overlap it; only using it as a base to stiffen the assembly. If you do screw up (it will be hard to screw the pooch on this) whatever you do will be concealed. Trust me, jump in, the water is perfectly fine.
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Old 05-17-2015, 08:05 PM   #72
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And please please make sure to drop the mid pipe. When I was sitting the passenger side bbk in, the midpipe was sitting just a tad high and would not allow the header to sit all the way down to put the bolts in.

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Old 05-17-2015, 08:08 PM   #73
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Yea a body shop is installing the chin splitter and diffuser for 200. I used a normal wrench.

Only tip i have is there is some tubes you can pop up and move out of the way for the passenger side to give a tad more room. You will know what I am talking about if you do the install yourself. Just make sure to put everything back. Lol.

About 30 minutes of the 3 hours for the install was letting the engine and stock manifolds cool off because I had to drive it to his house this morning. Don't try doing this right after driving the car.

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Thanks Kevin. Stories about that lone passenger bolt have me nervous I'll be all into it and not be able to get it done. I appreciate the 'real' install input over Youtube.

200 clams on the body work isn't a bad price. I was so exacting on each install, I likely spent 2-2.5 hours on each. Not as much from difficulty but from making sure everything was perfect. If you are a backyard guy like me, sometimes $200 is a small price to pay to save half a day in the sun.
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Old 05-17-2015, 08:09 PM   #74
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Yea, i was able to put that bottom last bolt in the passenger side from under the car. Much easier. The bolts to the midpipe were cake.

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Old 05-22-2015, 03:12 AM   #75
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Anyone know the recommended torque the header mounting nuts are supposed to be tightened down at?
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Old 05-22-2015, 07:14 AM   #76
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Anyone know the recommended torque the header mounting nuts are supposed to be tightened down at?
Just use the standard german spec "gootentite".
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Old 05-22-2015, 11:18 AM   #77
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Agreed. Remember your going into an aluminum block. Expensive fix if you can't drill and tap yourself. I'd rather have to retorque later down the road (which u should check them after 500miles any ways) than have to drill and tap the block




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Old 05-22-2015, 11:24 AM   #78
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Hey Kevin, Let us know if you have to take the starter off to get all the bolts in the right side.???


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Old 05-22-2015, 11:33 AM   #79
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Only thing I had to remove on the passenger's side was the Strut Tower Brace. The bolts to the midpipe and the very last bottom one on the passenger header, was done from beneath the car. The only reason these headers are difficult to install is due to the design of the tubing. They loop near the bolt holes. Making it hard to get any decent tool near them.
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Old 05-22-2015, 11:36 AM   #80
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Starter does not have to come off but it makes things easier. I don't know why people complain about taking off the starter. It's only two bolts and its small and light. I didn't even unhook my battery I just took the starter off carefully wrapped in a hand towel and set it off to the side. Took me and extra five minutes total but probably saved me ten min of Fidel f.....g with a wrench
I have big hands so it was easier to me. If u have smaller hands I think you'd be ok leaving it on.


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Old 05-28-2015, 06:29 PM   #81
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Quick question, what size wrench will I need to unbolt the x pipe?


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Old 05-28-2015, 06:45 PM   #82
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17 is what i needed to get the headers off the mid pipe. Then a 13 for the header bolts.
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Old 05-28-2015, 07:43 PM   #83
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Thank you! So, what would be the best way to tackle the bottom bolts for the headers? The top 6 bolts were apiece of cake...


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Old 05-28-2015, 07:48 PM   #84
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Are you referring to the ones that go to the midpipe? If you have a small socket wrench with a deep 17 MM socket - AMAZING! I did not have one. I could get a normal one with a 17 MM socket on the bolts but I had maybe 1/2" To turn it - NOT HAPPENING! So we got under the car with an air ratchet and got them. If yours are too tough to turn, then you may need to get under the car regardless for leverage. My car is fairly new so the bolts had hardly any rust on them.
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Old 05-28-2015, 07:58 PM   #85
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Oh sorry, I said bolts, but I guess I meant studs. I was referring to the 3 lower studs (6 altogether) for the headers...I guess coming up from the bottom would be the best way ?


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Old 05-28-2015, 08:04 PM   #86
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Oh sorry, I said bolts, but I guess I meant studs. I was referring to the 3 lower studs (6 altogether) for the headers...I guess coming up from the bottom would be the best way ?


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The drivers side I was able to get to all 6 with a ratcheting wrench. 1 of them was a little tight of a fit if I remember correctly.

On the passenger side, you can get to all of them except the rear lower 2 back ones. Best to get those from under the car. You COULD get the middle lower one from up top but it is a TIGHT fit that will need some finesse.

Make sure to move the coolant line on the passenger side like the instructions say. This will give you slightly more room to work with. I think you just need to undo 1 bolt. 10 MM I believe.
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Old 05-28-2015, 08:16 PM   #87
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Ok thanks! I did what I could tonight, figured I would tackle the rest on my day off tomorrow


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Old 05-28-2015, 08:19 PM   #88
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That would be best. Engine and exhaust will be nice and cool.

You never want to do these things when you got a time restraint.
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Old 05-29-2015, 02:13 PM   #89
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So another question...when I put the bolts into the bank headers to secure the headers to the pipe, are the included nuts supposed to fit over the tops? The one but went on no problem, but there's no way it will fit on the opposite side!


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Old 05-29-2015, 04:38 PM   #90
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This is what I'm referring to, am I doing something wrong here? Click image for larger version

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Old 05-29-2015, 04:41 PM   #91
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The tech I was working with put the nuts at the bottom of the stud. On the midpipe side.
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Old 05-29-2015, 04:51 PM   #92
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Hmm...so nothing to keep the stud in place at the top? Did you use the included washers? Thanks for the help!


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Old 05-29-2015, 04:58 PM   #93
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Hmm...so nothing to keep the stud in place at the top? Did you use the included washers? Thanks for the help!


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It's been a year since I did mine but I don't think there was a nut for the top. Didn't they only come with 4 bolts and 4 nuts? And don't the bolts screw into the headers flange?

If the stud screws into the borla flange, a top nut is not required.
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Old 05-29-2015, 05:07 PM   #94
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It's been a year since I did mine but I don't think there was a nut for the top. Didn't they only come with 4 bolts and 4 nuts? And don't the bolts screw into the headers flange?
You are correct sir. And yes, nothing holds them from the top. LOL
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Old 05-29-2015, 05:12 PM   #95
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It did come with 4 nuts , and yes, it looks like the bolts feed through the header (having some trouble with that too), but it came with like 8 washersClick image for larger version

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Old 05-29-2015, 05:16 PM   #96
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It did come with 4 nuts , and yes, it looks like the bolts feed through the header (having some trouble with that too), but it came with like 8 washersAttachment 183705


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I guess you are a beginner.
Those are 4 washers and 4 lock washers. One of each type go on each bolt.
1st washer then lock washer then nut.
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Old 05-29-2015, 05:19 PM   #97
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Enough car talk for today.
Going out to shoot some pool and have a few drinks.
Good luck.
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Old 05-29-2015, 05:35 PM   #98
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I guess you are a beginner.

You have no idea

Thanks for the help though


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Old 05-29-2015, 05:36 PM   #99
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You have no idea

Thanks for the help though


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We all started somewhere. Let us know if you are able to finish your install.
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Old 05-29-2015, 06:06 PM   #100
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Still working, but now I have another problem...so about half the studs came out with the nuts when I took off the factory headers. Most of them I was able to screw back easy enough, however two on the bottom drivers side won't go in more then a few turns...I've tried taking some studs out and trying different ones, but nothing seems to go in...I definitely don't want to strip these...


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Old 05-29-2015, 06:08 PM   #101
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I did not run into this so I cannot comment anything helpful. I am not a bolt wiz. sorry
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Old 05-29-2015, 06:46 PM   #102
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Just an update, got em all back in! Back to work!


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Old 05-30-2015, 10:35 AM   #103
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How did it go Pretzel? And you need a avatar pic. Lol
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Old 05-30-2015, 10:45 AM   #104
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Still working, but now I have another problem...so about half the studs came out with the nuts when I took off the factory headers. Most of them I was able to screw back easy enough, however two on the bottom drivers side won't go in more then a few turns...I've tried taking some studs out and trying different ones, but nothing seems to go in...I definitely don't want to strip these...


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This happened to me as well. You're going to need to get the nuts off of the studs, then put the studs back into the head. Be careful not to strip the aluminum head because then you will be in trouble! Here's how I got the nuts off the studs: submerged all of them in PB blaster or wd40 for about 30min in a little bowl. Then, I believe it was a 5.5mm head on the end of the stud so I used a socket and twisted the stud while holding the nut with the 1/2" wrench. Then when inserting the stud back into the head, I again used the 5.5mm socket and threaded it back down into the head. You can only go so much before it stops, then give it another 1/4 turn or so just so it's snug. Again, DO NOT over tighten the studs into the head or you will strip the thread.


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Old 05-30-2015, 04:04 PM   #105
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Well although you already got them back in, you should consider owning a bench grinder with a wire wheel . Comes in handy for cleaning up rusty bolt threads, etc.
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