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Old 05-14-2015, 07:08 PM   #1
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Maximum n/a hp

This has probably be talked about already but im trying to find out how much hp you can get out of one that doesnt have nos,super, or turbo since youtube isnt helping. (It also doesnt help that majority of the cars being dynoed are automatics)
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Old 05-14-2015, 07:28 PM   #2
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Is this including port and polish and swapping engine internals?

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Old 05-14-2015, 07:31 PM   #3
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Is this including port and polish and swapping engine internals?

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Ehh, if that doesnt cost more than $800 per upgrade then yes
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Old 05-14-2015, 07:39 PM   #4
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The most I have read about so far is 600 HP/na. The engine has to be highly modified though.

Tasca Ford has a setup that claimed to produce 505HP with the cobra jet manifold. cia, and tune. I believe it was around $2500.


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Old 05-14-2015, 07:42 PM   #5
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Yea, to break 300, that is where you get costly. You can get basic bolt ons and achieve 300-320 easily. With good suspension though.

Also, are you talking hp at the crank or rear wheels? Because the power i am referring to is at rear wheels.

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Old 05-14-2015, 08:01 PM   #6
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The most I have read about so far is 600 HP/na. The engine has to be highly modified though.

Tasca Ford has a setup that claimed to produce 505HP with the cobra jet manifold. cia, and tune. I believe it was around $2500.


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Old 05-14-2015, 08:03 PM   #7
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^^^ Doesn't realize he's in the V6 forum...


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Yea i was gonna say. 300 rwhp is realistic. 500-600. Not really. Even with FI you are barely getting close to there on these v6s unless you drop some serious coin.

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Old 05-14-2015, 08:09 PM   #8
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I have seen people with gears, tune, exhaust, diveshaft, cai, throttle body, and tlok barely get 290-300 rwhp. But for these little cars, that is pretty good usable power. I think stock 13/14 GTs put down 350-370 rwhp stock.

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Old 05-14-2015, 08:22 PM   #9
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The most I have read about so far is 600 HP/na. The engine has to be highly modified though.

Tasca Ford has a setup that claimed to produce 505HP with the cobra jet manifold. cia, and tune. I believe it was around $2500.


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How can you put a cobra jet manifold on a v6?

---------- Post added at 01:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:21 AM ----------

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Yea, to break 300, that is where you get costly. You can get basic bolt ons and achieve 300-320 easily. With good suspension though.

Also, are you talking hp at the crank or rear wheels? Because the power i am referring to is at rear wheels.

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Yeah im talking about the rwhp
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Old 05-14-2015, 08:31 PM   #10
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Then yea, for reasonable priced bolt ons (under 800 each), 300 rwhp isn't out of the question. Gears, CAI, Throttle body, Suspension, Tune, Full Exhaust (longtubes since you wont be FI), and whatever little stuff you could find. Dropping weight can help with your car's quickness. Such as lighter wheels, lighter front control arms, aluminum driveshaft, removing spare tire, removing rear seat, etc.

Heck, you could even add Accel coils if you wanted since they are under 800. No real hp increase but the bigger spark will allow for the fuel to be burnt more completely.
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Old 05-14-2015, 08:43 PM   #11
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Remember, you aren't necessarily adding more hp. You are allowing the car to have more usable power. As the 305 these cars get, a chunk gets lost by the time it gets to the rear wheels.

Now, the port and polish MIGHT be less then 800? Someone on here did it but I cannot remember who and this mobile app is hawt garbage.

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Old 05-14-2015, 09:19 PM   #12
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How can you put a cobra jet manifold on a v6?

Can't. He thought this was talking about a coyote I think


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Old 05-14-2015, 10:11 PM   #13
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There's a 4.0 Stroker Kit (costs like 2-3k), but you may reach 340-350 rwhp with full bolt ons and ported intake manifold
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Old 05-14-2015, 11:22 PM   #14
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There is no reason to stay NA unless you have a very specific reason to. If all you really want is more power just boost it. If you want NA for the cool factor.... just boost it.

Only real time spending the extra money for NA is if you road race.
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Old 05-15-2015, 07:51 AM   #15
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There is no reason to stay NA unless you have a very specific reason to. If all you really want is more power just boost it. If you want NA for the cool factor.... just boost it.

Only real time spending the extra money for NA is if you road race.
I just dont wanna spend 2-5k on boost i might want to later down the road.
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Old 05-15-2015, 07:55 AM   #16
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If you do go FI, then get shorties and 3.31s for now. That way you won't have to change them later.
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Old 05-15-2015, 08:39 AM   #17
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There is no reason to stay NA unless you have a very specific reason to. If all you really want is more power just boost it. If you want NA for the cool factor.... just boost it.

Only real time spending the extra money for NA is if you road race.
^^ Pretty much this, max effort Na is never worth it from a hp/$ sense unless you just need it.

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I just dont wanna spend 2-5k on boost i might want to later down the road.
$2-5k on boost is boost with headaches, expect $7K + for boost with no headaches.

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If you do go FI, then get shorties and 3.31s for now. That way you won't have to change them later.
This. Maybe as much as a 3.55 with a slightly taller tire, but its always good to try to plan ahead so you dont have to change or sell things at a loss later.
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Old 05-15-2015, 09:17 AM   #18
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^^ Pretty much this, max effort Na is never worth it from a hp/$ sense unless you just need it.



$2-5k on boost is boost with headaches, expect $7K + for boost with no headaches.



This. Maybe as much as a 3.55 with a slightly taller tire, but its always good to try to plan ahead so you dont have to change or sell things at a loss later.
Haha i meant that much for the parts, ik it will cost more than that to properly boost it
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Old 05-15-2015, 10:49 AM   #19
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I just dont wanna spend 2-5k on boost i might want to later down the road.

You will spend that much on bolt ons, exhaust, and a driveshaft and make a lot less power.

Add up the cost of all the bolt on modifications you want and then compare it to a supercharger.


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Old 05-15-2015, 10:52 AM   #20
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You will spend that much on bolt ons, exhaust, and a driveshaft and make a lot less power.

Add up the cost of all the bolt on modifications you want and then compare it to a supercharger.


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Yea but if he goes FI, won't he need that stuff first anyways?
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Old 05-15-2015, 11:34 AM   #21
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Ported intakes are about $400ish from Lone Wolf and around $700(with core) from SuperSix. SuperSix full port 3.7 heads are $2k not including core charge and $3750 if you want new heads. New cams are around $1500. New forged pistons are $900 and the 4.0L stroker kit is $3000. You can get around 400-425whp without having to beef up the longblock. by the time you reach 475whp or so you are at the limits of the stock longblock.
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Old 05-16-2015, 06:24 AM   #22
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How can you put a cobra jet manifold on a v6?

---------- Post added at 01:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:21 AM ----------



Yeah im talking about the rwhp

My apologies, as stated, I didn't realize it was a v6 forum.


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Old 05-16-2015, 12:42 PM   #23
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Just get boost. Otherwise you will be spending all that money for 1/10 the results.

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Old 05-16-2015, 01:01 PM   #24
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Ehh, if that doesnt cost more than $800 per upgrade then yes
LOL

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Old 05-16-2015, 04:13 PM   #25
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You guys must not know what's required to even clear the 305 hp to the wheels. To reach 400 you might as well stroke the motor and go hardcore motor work. No an intake will not improve horsepower by 50whp. The cheap way is a procharger, but that's boost and it barely clears 400 usually.
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Old 05-16-2015, 04:14 PM   #26
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Ehh, if that doesnt cost more than $800 per upgrade then yes

You won't get far or fast like that.
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Old 05-16-2015, 04:17 PM   #27
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Ported intakes are about $400ish from Lone Wolf and around $700(with core) from SuperSix. SuperSix full port 3.7 heads are $2k not including core charge and $3750 if you want new heads. New cams are around $1500. New forged pistons are $900 and the 4.0L stroker kit is $3000. You can get around 400-425whp without having to beef up the longblock. by the time you reach 475whp or so you are at the limits of the stock longblock.

False. The block can take way more than that.

Don't forget upgraded valve springs, you can port your own heads if you have the basic knowledge
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Old 05-16-2015, 04:44 PM   #28
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Yeah my motor is handling 500+ rwhp so far no problem

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---------- Post added at 05:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:43 PM ----------

You're not even gonna get above 300rwhp with full bolt ons and a tune. 295 rwhp-300 is the cap even with lt headers or mid pipe etc.

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Old 05-16-2015, 04:46 PM   #29
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Yeah my motor is handling 500+ rwhp so far no problem

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---------- Post added at 05:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:43 PM ----------

You're not even gonna get above 300rwhp with full bolt ons and a tune. 295 rwhp-300 is the cap even with lt headers or mid pipe etc.

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How are your tires handling it? Lol
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Old 05-16-2015, 07:05 PM   #30
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Yeah my motor is handling 500+ rwhp so far no problem

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---------- Post added at 05:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:43 PM ----------

You're not even gonna get above 300rwhp with full bolt ons and a tune. 295 rwhp-300 is the cap even with lt headers or mid pipe etc.

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Ive seen manual's with 305hp
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Old 05-16-2015, 07:36 PM   #31
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Ive seen manual's with 305hp
Ok so you've seen one with 5 more horsepower. 5 hp is nothing. You wanna make real power get boost.

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How are your tires handling it? Lol
Surprisingly well. I will need some drags when I hit the track tho.

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Old 05-16-2015, 07:46 PM   #32
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Ive seen manual's with 305hp

My auto had 305 hp to the crank. No big deal. Now? Maybe 300 to the wheels.
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Old 05-16-2015, 09:48 PM   #33
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My auto had 305 hp to the crank. No big deal. Now? Maybe 300 to the wheels.
Dyno numbers are relative.
Stock auto 5.0 put 340 whp on the dyno I was on, but in better conditions. 370 is what everyone says is the average accepted value for whp numbers for a Stock auto 5.0.
I don't know why people try to compare dyno numbers, it's an apples to oranges comparison.

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Old 05-16-2015, 10:02 PM   #34
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Dyno numbers are relative.
Stock auto 5.0 put 340 whp on the dyno I was on, but in better conditions. 370 is what everyone says is the average accepted value for whp numbers for a Stock auto 5.0.
I don't know why people try to compare dyno numbers, it's an apples to oranges comparison.

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The average stock value for a v6 is apparently 305 haha it's more like 250 conservative.
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Old 05-17-2015, 01:22 AM   #35
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someone said something about shorty headers... if you plan on going turbo i wouldnt recommend them... one of the guys on ffm actually ruined his bbk ceramic shortys... guess the turbo was gererating too much heat. anyway cant go wrong with the stock cast iron ones... if you go supercharged get long tubes..
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