JLT Oil separator -catch can - Mustang Evolution

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Old 05-15-2015, 03:56 PM   #1
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JLT Oil separator -catch can

Hello

My catch can after about 2500 miles.

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Old 05-15-2015, 04:20 PM   #2
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Old 05-15-2015, 09:38 PM   #3
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Damn, that much in only 5k miles?

Buying mine tomorrow!


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Old 05-15-2015, 09:57 PM   #4
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I emptied mine the other day. I can't remember exactly how many miles this was... But something in the 4k range is my estimate. Can was over half full.

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Old 05-15-2015, 11:01 PM   #5
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I use a dosage measuring glass and collect an average of 1/4 ounce per 1,000 miles.
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Old 05-15-2015, 11:13 PM   #6
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Old 05-16-2015, 04:32 PM   #7
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Is it possible to diy one?
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Old 05-16-2015, 06:47 PM   #8
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I did a DIY, had a vacuum leak. It was the team cyclone racing canister.

I have a UPR catch can now. Best $130 I've spent so far. JLT will have a vacuum leak after awhile, trust me.
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Old 05-16-2015, 09:21 PM   #9
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Hello

My catch can after about 2500 miles.

Welp, you've convinced me
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Old 05-16-2015, 09:46 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Whitelightning View Post
I did a DIY, had a vacuum leak. It was the team cyclone racing canister.

I have a UPR catch can now. Best $130 I've spent so far. JLT will have a vacuum leak after awhile, trust me.

Why will JLT have a leak?


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Old 05-16-2015, 10:03 PM   #11
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Why will JLT have a leak?


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If the can rotates, it'll leak. Think about it. It's not supposed to move. Mine caused a huge vacuum leak. I fixed it and sold it.
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Old 05-16-2015, 10:06 PM   #12
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What does an oil separator even do?


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Old 05-16-2015, 11:09 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by austin3.7 View Post
What does an oil separator even do?


2013 Black Mustang 3.7, Pony package, cold weather package, Borla Ataks, Bama 93R tune, SR Performance strut tower brace


Positive crankcase ventilation system.

The crankshaft spins through your oil pan, creates pressure. The hose going to your head to intake has oil in it, vapor droplets. The one going from passenger head going into intake. Ford designed it be burned off again by flowing into the heads to be combusted and burned away. This oil will gum up the valves over time, and reduce octane in certain cases. This catch can catches the droplets from entering the top side of the motor again to complete this, supposedly awesome process.
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Old 05-17-2015, 03:07 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitelightning View Post
I did a DIY, had a vacuum leak. It was the team cyclone racing canister.

I have a UPR catch can now. Best $130 I've spent so far. JLT will have a vacuum leak after awhile, trust me.

I can't find a upr for 3.7
It's is possible that you shoot me a link please?
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Old 05-17-2015, 10:05 AM   #15
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I've had my JLT installed for 2 years, no leaks, no problems at all. Just sayin'.
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Old 05-17-2015, 12:22 PM   #16
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I've had my JLT installed for 2 years, no leaks, no problems at all. Just sayin'.

It's hit or miss. I know plenty of guys who claim they are garbage. And once you buy a UPR can, you'll think so too. Biggest problem is the mesh detaching and getting sucked into the heads.

---------- Post added at 12:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:21 PM ----------

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I can't find a upr for 3.7
It's is possible that you shoot me a link please?

Let me google that for you.

UPRproducts.com
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Old 05-17-2015, 01:35 PM   #17
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Noob question, what makes the UBR better than the JLT? The cables? The way it connects to the engine?


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Old 05-17-2015, 03:09 PM   #18
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I think the shipping to Canada is a little to much though lol.
Guess ill call them on this one.

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Old 05-17-2015, 03:30 PM   #19
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I've had my JLT installed for 2 years, no leaks, no problems at all. Just sayin'.
+1. Over 2 years, no leaks.
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Old 05-17-2015, 03:36 PM   #20
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Noob question, what makes the UBR better than the JLT? The cables? The way it connects to the engine?


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All of it.

The filter is better, hoses are better. Uses 4 oem hose connects, allows can to rotate and won't cause a leak. Also you can completely take it apart to service and clean it. It's well worth the $30 extra
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Old 05-17-2015, 03:38 PM   #21
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I think the shipping to Canada is a little to much though lol.
Guess ill call them on this one.

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It's expensive even for me, and I'm one state away. The international shipping is $0.00. They didn't allow me to choose that though. Paid $10 in shipping. Total was $127
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Old 05-17-2015, 03:50 PM   #22
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Whitelighting how does that big screen get thought the small hoses did this happen to you or someone you know?
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:52 AM   #23
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Sure ain't a thing bad about "MY" jlt catch can

It installs with genuine Ford hoses, it has the filter in the cap, It catches oil, It is very easy to empty. It looks good, The quality shows. It sure as hell does not move or twist on my 3.7 V6.
Well worth the money because it does what it is supposed to do and problem free.
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:53 AM   #24
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Sure ain't a thing bad about "MY" jlt catch can

It installs with genuine Ford hoses, it has the filter in the cap, It catches oil, It is very easy to empty. It looks good, The quality shows. It sure as hell does not move or twist on my 3.7 V6.
Well worth the money because it does what it is supposed to do and problem free.
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Old 05-18-2015, 09:48 AM   #25
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It installs with genuine Ford hoses, it has the filter in the cap, It catches oil, It is very easy to empty. It looks good, The quality shows. It sure as hell does not move or twist on my 3.7 V6.

Well worth the money because it does what it is supposed to do and problem free.

Ronnie




Yeah my UPR looks miles ahead of this jank concoction that JLT calls a catch can.

---------- Post added at 09:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:48 AM ----------

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Whitelighting how does that big screen get thought the small hoses did this happen to you or someone you know?

It's not the screen itself. The metal wire they call a filter breaks off and gets sucked into the motor.
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Old 05-18-2015, 09:52 AM   #26
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Whitelighting how does that big screen get thought the small hoses did this happen to you or someone you know?

It's not the screen itself. The metal wire they call a filter breaks off and gets sucked into the motor.
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Old 05-18-2015, 09:54 AM   #27
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Just for comparison purposes. You can disassemble all of the can and replace it with parts of their site. You know what JLT told me? Sorry bud, you bought it, we won't warranty it.

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Old 05-18-2015, 10:08 AM   #28
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I really like the bob's kit, if I were to do it over again that's where I'd spend my money.
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Old 05-18-2015, 10:35 AM   #29
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:55 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunnytan06 View Post
Is it possible to diy one?
Yes, but you'll still be spending about $150 for some decent parts. Not something worth going cheap on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitelightning View Post
I did a DIY, had a vacuum leak. It was the team cyclone racing canister.

I have a UPR catch can now. Best $130 I've spent so far. JLT will have a vacuum leak after awhile, trust me.
Most cheap DIY cans have vacuum leaks. I had a carbon fiber prosport can from back in the day that was complete crap. You also have to use a proper reinforced hose. Generic fuel or heater hose will collapse under vacuum, so you'll need either something silicone reinforced, or steel braided. Not necessarily talking to you, but anyone else who may happen to be reading this in hopes of doing a DIY.

Quote:
Originally Posted by austin3.7 View Post
What does an oil separator even do?


2013 Black Mustang 3.7, Pony package, cold weather package, Borla Ataks, Bama 93R tune, SR Performance strut tower brace
Positive crankcase ventilation. Removes blow by, which is combustion pressure that makes its way past the piston rings (not a 100% seal) and ends up in the crankcase. In a boosted car with extra cylinder pressures, it is actually possible to build as much as 3-5 psi UNDER the pistons. This will rob HP, and in some cases can actually cause the dipstick to blow out (pressure follows the path of least resistance). This is why you see some people run breather filters on boosted cars - i personally believe they serve zero purpose NA as i prefer my crankcase to have a vacuum, but thats neither here nor there. There are obviously extreme exceptions to this, as i'm sure Rap will come in here and tell me how great his breathers are, and we will agree to disagree like always

In an all motor application, the PCV also acts to route fresh air through the crankcase and remove those blow by contaminants, fuel, waiter, vapors... One side of the crankcase is connected to the factory intake, and the other to the intake manifold. Since the engine is essentially a vacuum pump, and the intake and intake manifold are separated by the throttle body, the IM will have a higher vacuum compared to the intake when not WOT. What this means is fresh air is actually pulled IN the crankcase on the drivers side (drivers side PCV can is a waste of money), through the crankcase, and OUT the passenger side. The PCV also includes a small "check valve" to act as a flow limiter - restricting the flow also increases the vacuum somewhat.

A bit long winded, i know, but theres more. The main purpose is removing those contaminants from the crankcase - which we like - and burning them off in the combustion chamber - which we dont. Wet, oily vapors can actually reduce the effective octane of gas and cause knock and detonation in large enough amounts (very rare, but we have lost a motor once to a car that suffered from excessive CC pressures). So, install an inline separator to filter out the crap.

This is a topic of hot discussion, but i prefer to leave my CC exposed to a vacuum. I believe it is better for the engine's seals and over all life. For that reason, i prefer a quality catch can to maintain a vacuum with no drawbacks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitelightning View Post
Positive crankcase ventilation system.

The crankshaft spins through your oil pan, creates pressure. The hose going to your head to intake has oil in it, vapor droplets. The one going from passenger head going into intake. Ford designed it be burned off again by flowing into the heads to be combusted and burned away. This oil will gum up the valves over time, and reduce octane in certain cases. This catch can catches the droplets from entering the top side of the motor again to complete this, supposedly awesome process.
mostly right in some points, but i felt it just needed a little more explanation. Maybe i read it wrong but i found it a bit confusing. What i highlighted is technically referred to as "windage," not CC pressure. Its also the reason the Boss does not include oil squirters when paired with its high RPM.

Quote:
Originally Posted by king_13 View Post
Noob question, what makes the UBR better than the JLT? The cables? The way it connects to the engine?


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a lot of cans are better than the JLT. By installing larger and longer lines, you basically give the oil vapors a chance to slow and fall out of suspension before they reach the can. The JLT doesnt have enough distance to really do much other than just what gets caught on the filters. I love people's argument of "well theres still stuff in the can." Sure there is, and i can go cut my grass with a pair of scissors, but that doesnt mean its the best thing i could be doing.

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Originally Posted by mariusvt View Post
I really like the bob's kit, if I were to do it over again that's where I'd spend my money.
For the record, i am not affiliated with bob's in any way, shape, or form, but i 100% believe they have one of the better cans on the market. It may be a bit of brand loyalty, i dont believe UPR makes a bad product, but i'm 3 bob's cans in - all with the firewall mount due to the above observation about length of hose and diameter - and i have to say they have all been great.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:01 PM   #31
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Do they make one for the 3.7? I cant seem to find one available on their site.

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Old 05-18-2015, 01:06 PM   #32
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It's expensive even for me, and I'm one state away. The international shipping is $0.00. They didn't allow me to choose that though. Paid $10 in shipping. Total was $127
I don't mind paying to have my parts shipped up here, but almost 10 Million dollars is a little much lol.
My total at checkout was
10 000 129.98. Lol

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Old 05-18-2015, 01:13 PM   #33
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Do they make one for the 3.7? I cant seem to find one available on their site.

Sent from LG G3.
Since your post followed mine, i'm going to assume you mean the Bob's?

Just use the bare bones can + firewall mount.

Brushed Bare Bones Oil Separator

Go down to ace for your threaded barbs, and O'reily's for the hose and call it a day.

The Routing of the v6 intake manifold makes it a tight fit, but it is doable (we've done it on my fiance's car). You'll need a strong silicone reinforced hose to give you the strength and flexibility to make the bend though.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:30 PM   #34
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Yes, but you'll still be spending about $150 for some decent parts. Not something worth going cheap on.







Most cheap DIY cans have vacuum leaks. I had a carbon fiber prosport can from back in the day that was complete crap. You also have to use a proper reinforced hose. Generic fuel or heater hose will collapse under vacuum, so you'll need either something silicone reinforced, or steel braided. Not necessarily talking to you, but anyone else who may happen to be reading this in hopes of doing a DIY.







Positive crankcase ventilation. Removes blow by, which is combustion pressure that makes its way past the piston rings (not a 100% seal) and ends up in the crankcase. In a boosted car with extra cylinder pressures, it is actually possible to build as much as 3-5 psi UNDER the pistons. This will rob HP, and in some cases can actually cause the dipstick to blow out (pressure follows the path of least resistance). This is why you see some people run breather filters on boosted cars - i personally believe they serve zero purpose NA as i prefer my crankcase to have a vacuum, but thats neither here nor there. There are obviously extreme exceptions to this, as i'm sure Rap will come in here and tell me how great his breathers are, and we will agree to disagree like always



In an all motor application, the PCV also acts to route fresh air through the crankcase and remove those blow by contaminants, fuel, waiter, vapors... One side of the crankcase is connected to the factory intake, and the other to the intake manifold. Since the engine is essentially a vacuum pump, and the intake and intake manifold are separated by the throttle body, the IM will have a higher vacuum compared to the intake when not WOT. What this means is fresh air is actually pulled IN the crankcase on the drivers side (drivers side PCV can is a waste of money), through the crankcase, and OUT the passenger side. The PCV also includes a small "check valve" to act as a flow limiter - restricting the flow also increases the vacuum somewhat.



A bit long winded, i know, but theres more. The main purpose is removing those contaminants from the crankcase - which we like - and burning them off in the combustion chamber - which we dont. Wet, oily vapors can actually reduce the effective octane of gas and cause knock and detonation in large enough amounts (very rare, but we have lost a motor once to a car that suffered from excessive CC pressures). So, install an inline separator to filter out the crap.



This is a topic of hot discussion, but i prefer to leave my CC exposed to a vacuum. I believe it is better for the engine's seals and over all life. For that reason, i prefer a quality catch can to maintain a vacuum with no drawbacks.







mostly right in some points, but i felt it just needed a little more explanation. Maybe i read it wrong but i found it a bit confusing. What i highlighted is technically referred to as "windage," not CC pressure. Its also the reason the Boss does not include oil squirters when paired with its high RPM.







a lot of cans are better than the JLT. By installing larger and longer lines, you basically give the oil vapors a chance to slow and fall out of suspension before they reach the can. The JLT doesnt have enough distance to really do much other than just what gets caught on the filters. I love people's argument of "well theres still stuff in the can." Sure there is, and i can go cut my grass with a pair of scissors, but that doesnt mean its the best thing i could be doing.







For the record, i am not affiliated with bob's in any way, shape, or form, but i 100% believe they have one of the better cans on the market. It may be a bit of brand loyalty, i dont believe UPR makes a bad product, but i'm 3 bob's cans in - all with the firewall mount due to the above observation about length of hose and diameter - and i have to say they have all been great.

I like my response better :p but good job for the techie!
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:00 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post



For the record, i am not affiliated with bob's in any way, shape, or form, but i 100% believe they have one of the better cans on the market. It may be a bit of brand loyalty, i dont believe UPR makes a bad product, but i'm 3 bob's cans in - all with the firewall mount due to the above observation about length of hose and diameter - and i have to say they have all been great.

Have you ever compared the different brands? Or know if there has been a test to determine which can collects the most oil per x amount of miles? I'd be interested in the results.
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