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Old 05-19-2015, 03:28 PM   #1
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The factory motor mounts are terrible

This, more than anything else, is why the 2011 and up cars have trouble shifting. It has nothing to do with which shifter is installed, because the transmission is still wildly bucking around under the car (likely the reason for the plus sized transmission tunnel, and the two piece driveshafts for everyone).

I made this video at a local test and tune's slalom course this weekend. I did not launch the car (typical launch procedure is tach to 3500 rpm, side step off the pedal, and floor it) Keep in mind that I was on 300 run A6's (while sharpie does not give you grip, it WILL get you through tech inspection), which are about as grippy as polished marble (the A6 goes sharply downhill after 40-50 runs).
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Old 05-20-2015, 04:30 AM   #2
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I keep telling people how much new motor mounts helped in the shifting of my V6. For me they were the biggest improvement.

Jande, nice mod list
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Old 05-20-2015, 07:05 AM   #3
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Can't watch the video on my phone. Is it on you tube?

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Old 05-20-2015, 09:21 AM   #4
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This is also why either the MGW Race spec or the blowfish bracket (a good deal if you buy used) are a drastic improvement. It allows the shifter to move with the driveline instead of anchoring it to the body and smooths out a lot of situations where it would bind due to the driveline moving.
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Old 05-20-2015, 10:31 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mariusvt View Post
This is also why either the MGW Race spec or the blowfish bracket (a good deal if you buy used) are a drastic improvement. It allows the shifter to move with the driveline instead of anchoring it to the body and smooths out a lot of situations where it would bind due to the driveline moving.
^^^This!

In my opinion this is the best solution as it prevents the excess NVH from being transmitted into the structure of the car that you will get with stiffer mounts.
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Old 05-21-2015, 09:12 AM   #6
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interesting..
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Old 05-21-2015, 01:04 PM   #7
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It certainly explains some of the nervous handling characteristics when driven truly fast. I was wondering what was causing that little extra push a split second after corner entry...

I guess that it is time to ninja some factory mounts to do a poly injection, followed by a torque damper.
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Old 05-22-2015, 02:26 AM   #8
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VERY interesting thread. Thanks for the info!
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Old 06-04-2015, 11:20 AM   #9
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Does anyone make solid mounts for these v6 motors?


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Old 06-04-2015, 11:30 AM   #10
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Does anyone make solid mounts for these v6 motors?


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http://www.americanmuscle.com/aje-mo...unts-37v6.html


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Old 06-04-2015, 11:33 AM   #11
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V6/V8 same mounts
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Old 06-04-2015, 12:09 PM   #12
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Yeah, they use the same mounts to reduce the amount of inventory needed during assembly. Simplifies the logistic chain, and reduces cost slightly.
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Old 06-04-2015, 12:16 PM   #13
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Does anyone make solid mounts for these v6 motors?


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You definitely don't want solid mounts unless you only race the car. Also the ones linked earlier require changing out to an aftermarket K member.

Steeda makes these with poly bushings Steeda 2007-14 Mustang Adjustable Heavy Duty Engine Mounts - Made in the USA 555-4005 | Free Shipping! which work with the OEM crossmember.
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Old 06-04-2015, 01:22 PM   #14
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+1 on avoiding solid....if you have the V6 MT when the dual mass flywheel starts it's decel vibe it is like mild rumble strips. That is with the Urethane mounts...solid would be bad (unless race car)
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Old 06-04-2015, 02:10 PM   #15
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If I went with the steeda motor mounts what adjustment would I make for them? Says it has 1/4inch adjustments? I've never used poly styles I've always done solid mounts on cars I've built


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Old 06-04-2015, 02:26 PM   #16
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If you dont have adjustable UCA, you could use whatever setting helped set the pinion angle.
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Old 06-04-2015, 03:22 PM   #17
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Don't have uca


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Old 06-04-2015, 10:10 PM   #18
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What does it cost to have this installed?
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Old 06-05-2015, 07:30 AM   #19
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What does it cost to have this installed?
Assuming the around 3 hours Steeda states on their site for install time, depending what labor rates are around you I'd probably expect to pay around $300 as a complete shot in the dark estimate. Could be more, could be less.
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Old 06-05-2015, 09:41 AM   #20
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Assuming the around 3 hours Steeda states on their site for install time, depending what labor rates are around you I'd probably expect to pay around $300 as a complete shot in the dark estimate. Could be more, could be less.
May be a noob question, but do you need to remove the engine to install them?
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Old 06-05-2015, 09:47 AM   #21
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May be a noob question, but do you need to remove the engine to install them?
Remove no, support yes. You can open the PDF in the link to the steeda mounts and they have the install instructions.
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Old 06-05-2015, 11:01 AM   #22
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Hints from someone who did them B4:

Disconnect the battery!

I made the mistake of trying to save the oem's it is bad because you need to remove the aluminum blocks that go from the mount to the engine as you can not lift the motor enough to clear the stud on the mount....cut that stud instead and you don't have to remove those blocks which was the hardest part.

doing it the hard way took me 5-6 hrs the easy way would have been 2-3hrs that is from someone who can turn a wrench but not a car mechanic. I will caution again that this added a good bit of NVH but for me was one of the better mods as it eliminated 90% of my missed/blocked shifts. I still have the notchy feeling but like this improvement.

It is simple wrenching somewhat of a pain but look at them and you can see what needs to be done.
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