Picked up Shelby Rear Strut Tower Brace - Mustang Evolution

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Old 06-04-2015, 08:35 PM   #1
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Picked up Shelby Rear Strut Tower Brace

Picked this up from CJ Pony on a whim. Went with the uncoated one because I figured I wasn't going to really see it and I could paint it myself if I wanted. Went ahead and painted it when I got it though. I don't think it's too bad for my first attempt at spraypainting something. There are a couple of paint cracks on the end, but that'll be hidden when installed and the coloring isn't completely even, but oh well. I also put some glossy paper printed black behind the Shelby cutout to make it, to me, look a bit better.
First two pictures are of when I first got it.




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Old 06-05-2015, 09:15 AM   #2
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Mine is white and I just dipped it because I had some leftover white. Use air tools for this or pay a shop $20 to get it on. Feels solid in your back and you will get a pop from time to time in the trunk.
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Old 06-05-2015, 09:21 AM   #3
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Couple more light coats and your golden.


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Old 06-05-2015, 11:52 AM   #4
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Picked up Shelby Rear Strut Tower Brace

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitelightning View Post
Mine is white and I just dipped it because I had some leftover white. Use air tools for this or pay a shop $20 to get it on. Feels solid in your back and you will get a pop from time to time in the trunk.

I would not use an air tool on the rear shock bolt. You have to hold the thread with an 8mm wrench (I might be wrong, could be smaller) and then take the nut off. Using air tools may cause damage to the shock if the nut is too tight. Maybe that's why you're getting a popping sound lol.

OP I did the same exact thing but painted it black. Decreased a bit of body roll. Pair this up with an aftermarket sway bar and you'll really be impressed!


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Old 06-05-2015, 12:20 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Mean14 View Post
I would not use an air tool on the rear shock bolt. You have to hold the thread with an 8mm wrench (I might be wrong, could be smaller) and then take the nut off. Using air tools may cause damage to the shock if the nut is too tight. Maybe that's why you're getting a popping sound lol.

OP I did the same exact thing but painted it black. Decreased a bit of body roll. Pair this up with an aftermarket sway bar and you'll really be impressed!


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May cause damage if you're new to air tools. Turn the pressure down and you're good. I did it on my oem ones and then the koni shocks too. No thread damage.

If anything holding the rod caused more damage than anything.
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Old 06-05-2015, 01:09 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean14 View Post
I would not use an air tool on the rear shock bolt. You have to hold the thread with an 8mm wrench (I might be wrong, could be smaller) and then take the nut off. Using air tools may cause damage to the shock if the nut is too tight. Maybe that's why you're getting a popping sound lol.

OP I did the same exact thing but painted it black. Decreased a bit of body roll. Pair this up with an aftermarket sway bar and you'll really be impressed!


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Thanks for the advice everyone. I've already replaced my rear shocks so am not a stranger to dealing with them. Even without air tools, it really didn't take long to install them.

Do you have aftermarket front and rear swaybars or just the rear? I am thinking if I do go that route I'd only do the rear, mainly due to the time required. The only things I haven't installed on my car myself were the shorty headers and gears.
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Old 06-05-2015, 02:27 PM   #7
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Do you have aftermarket front and rear swaybars or just the rear? I am thinking if I do go that route I'd only do the rear, mainly due to the time required. The only things I haven't installed on my car myself were the shorty headers and gears.
I have front and rear. I went with whiteline heavy duty front and rear bars because I got a deal on them and they are top of the line IMO. I also like how the rear bar mounts to the axle, and the adjustability between the two. I was really impressed with how much of a difference the sway bars made. Going over bumps doesn't throw the car around anymore, and getting on and off the highway is a lot more enjoyable.

If you don't want to do the front bar, at least change out the links. The stock links are crap. That way, you don't have to go through the trouble of taking the whole bar off. You can just take off the front tires and get to them from there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitelightning View Post
May cause damage if you're new to air tools. Turn the pressure down and you're good. I did it on my oem ones and then the koni shocks too. No thread damage.

If anything holding the rod caused more damage than anything.
Whatever works for you. I'm just speaking from experience, and the countless things I've read.
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Old 06-05-2015, 06:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean14 View Post
I have front and rear. I went with whiteline heavy duty front and rear bars because I got a deal on them and they are top of the line IMO. I also like how the rear bar mounts to the axle, and the adjustability between the two. I was really impressed with how much of a difference the sway bars made. Going over bumps doesn't throw the car around anymore, and getting on and off the highway is a lot more enjoyable.

If you don't want to do the front bar, at least change out the links. The stock links are crap. That way, you don't have to go through the trouble of taking the whole bar off. You can just take off the front tires and get to them from there.



Whatever works for you. I'm just speaking from experience, and the countless things I've read.

Also speaking from experience. Had to drive the car 5 miles to a shop to use their air gun to remove the nut because the threads got messed up. But hey, long as it works without damage; there is more than one way to skin a cat
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Old 06-06-2015, 04:26 PM   #9
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Installed it today. Took about 20 minutes with hand tools, and most of that was trying to cut the carpeting in a way to not have a huge block taken out of it (somewhat failed, but oh well. Taping the carpet parts on the back side doesn't make it too terribly noticeable).

I'm still not totally sold on doing the sway bars yet, but I already switched out the front endlinks when I installed my struts and lowering springs. Although they are the SR Performance ones and I don't really think they are much better than the factory links. Had them for maybe 6 months and the passenger side nut has seized up or rusted over or something, but it is now impossible to adjust it no matter what I have tried. Oh well.
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