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Old 07-22-2015, 12:38 PM   #36
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The main reason for the limiter on the V6 @ 113mph is also because of the auto. Auto car's come with the 215/65r17 Michelin energy savers, which carry a T speed rating (118mph). Conversly the 225/60r17 BFG's that come on the manual cars have an H speed rating (130mph). Same tune for all the cars, even the ones that come with 18's and the Pzeros.

The 2 part driveshaft potential for failure is a secondary reason.
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:54 PM   #37
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A lot came with Pirelli "Z" rated tires

I know mine did because they are still on there.
I think it is governed at 113/ 115 because of a mixture of a lot of things. Standard brakes, Drive shaft, Tires on most of them are not performance tires. and don't forget about the stock suspension.

Any way you look at it, The V6 Drive shaft is very weak and heavy. It is manufactured as inexpensively as possible and although it works for 80% of the people that buy a V6 Mustang. It sure ain't good for the V6 performance enthusiast.
Take a good look at the picture and let me know how something like this would hold up in any car that is tracked, Auto crossed or drag raced a lot.Ronnie

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Old 07-22-2015, 01:17 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by mariusvt View Post
The main reason for the limiter on the V6 @ 113mph is also because of the auto. Auto car's come with the 215/65r17 Michelin energy savers, which carry a T speed rating (118mph). Conversly the 225/60r17 BFG's that come on the manual cars have an H speed rating (130mph). Same tune for all the cars, even the ones that come with 18's and the Pzeros.

The 2 part driveshaft potential for failure is a secondary reason.
How about the possibility that the drive shaft potential failure coming first, dictating the speed limiter, allowing the use of lower speed rated tires? Or do you know that the tires was in fact the "main" reason?
(My OE tires are rated for up to 168 mph.)
On another note, I thought I saw a post from a Perf Package owner that he could go up to something like 120 mph before the speed limiter kicked in.
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Old 07-22-2015, 01:28 PM   #39
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I know mine did because they are still on there.
I think it is governed at 113/ 115 because of a mixture of a lot of things. Standard brakes, Drive shaft, Tires on most of them are not performance tires. and don't forget about the stock suspension.

Any way you look at it, The V6 Drive shaft is very weak and heavy. It is manufactured as inexpensively as possible and although it works for 80% of the people that buy a V6 Mustang. It sure ain't good for the V6 performance enthusiast.
Take a good look at the picture and let me know how something like this would hold up in any car that is tracked, Auto crossed or drag raced a lot.Ronnie
My take on the bad drive shaft was that it was improperly designed for resonance and not necessarily that it was inexpensively designed. A properly designed 1 pc is probably no more costly then the 2 pc design.
But isn't it pretty much all speculation?
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Old 07-22-2015, 01:55 PM   #40
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How about the possibility that the drive shaft potential failure coming first, dictating the speed limiter, allowing the use of lower speed rated tires? Or do you know that the tires was in fact the "main" reason?
(My OE tires are rated for up to 168 mph.)
On another note, I thought I saw a post from a Perf Package owner that he could go up to something like 120 mph before the speed limiter kicked in.
Ford isn't going to have multiple tunes with different speed limiters. They are going to flash 1 factory tune and have adjustments for different tire diameter if your as-built is the MT, 18" OEM or PP. The 3.7 was touted as returning 30mpg, which means taller tires (215/65r17's are 28"", 2.73 gearing, etc. Using those energy saver tires to achieve their MPG targets neccesitated the low speed limiter.

That's not to say the DS isn't a questionable piece, but it is also far from the ticking time bomb that could fail at any moment so many people make it out to be also.

Also on the topic of driveshafts, those that upgrade to a 1 piece without adding a DS safetly loop, are putting themselves at just as much, if not more risk should a u-joint failure happen. Compared to a stock shaft's breaking, but being half the size flailing around under there.
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Old 07-22-2015, 02:00 PM   #41
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I think we are getting side tracked. Back to what the OP and what he was asking, you need to ask yourself if your car will be seeing 90+ mph a lot. If all you want is a nice cruising car around town with a tad more grunt, then shorties. If you will be racing heavy and/or tracking then get the driveshaft. Easy as that. ONLY worry about the stock driveshaft breaking if you will be doing high speeds.

Otherwise, that is $700 spent for nothing if you are getting a BOSS later.
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Old 07-22-2015, 02:53 PM   #42
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I say flip a coin!
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Old 07-25-2015, 12:35 PM   #43
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DS. Who here hasn't driven over 100 mph after tuning their car?


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I do it stock....lmao Texas for the win baby.
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Old 07-27-2015, 09:40 AM   #44
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Like 100+mph runs(on the track)? Driveshaft.
Like to rip through gears(up to the speed limit)? Shorty headers! Good torque gain!
Want to piss off everyone nearby by making your v6 sound "obnoxious"(opinion) while losing torque but gaining a bit of HP ? Then Long tube Headers(don't do this if you want to turbo later).

I went shorty headers, and will do driveshaft when I go FI. I have done many 100+ runs on the stock driveshaft , and it hasn't died yet. I vote shorty headers.
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:37 PM   #45
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Ive got both mods and I woulds say do the driveshaft first.

I did the shifter (mt82) gears (3.73) and the driveshaft first. Then log tubes. Then I did the clutch, flywheel and braided line. The clutch /flywheel was a huge improvement over the stock. The driveshaft and gears too. The headers were the least impressive as far as performance but the sound was worth every penny.
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