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Old 07-18-2015, 01:43 PM   #1
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2014 Mustang V6 Performance pack Brakes

Hey everyone,

Question about the brakes on my stang. I replaced the brakes and noticed (I could be wrong because I never noticed it before nor paid attention) it seems I have to slightly push the pedal down for the brakes to bite. Now again never paid attention before. I had the brakes professionally bled and watched them as they did it.

Still feels off. Is this normal or should they bite like you're going to be lunged when you hit them as in other cars. This is my first mustang and didn't know if again this was normal. Thanks for the help

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Old 07-18-2015, 02:10 PM   #2
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What brake pads did you put on?

Do you have to push the pedal less or more now?
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Old 07-18-2015, 02:19 PM   #3
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What brake pads did you put on?
Bingo. If they fitted less performance oriented pads, that could be the difference.
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Old 07-18-2015, 02:57 PM   #4
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or didn't put in high Performance pads.
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Old 07-18-2015, 03:02 PM   #5
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Or put in old used brokeback ones. XD
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Old 07-18-2015, 03:08 PM   #6
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I will say after driving my V6 with the PP and a GT with Brembos the Butt Dyno could tell the Brembos were touchier (grabbed quicker) but I couldn't tell any difference in stopping which fits in with my belief that short of the track or bragging/cool factor the biggest real change in stopping is tires.

I would try a couple of hard stops (look up online how to bed brakes) and unless stopping feels longer to relax. Brakes will normally improve a bit as they seat.
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Old 07-18-2015, 03:14 PM   #7
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And how many miles on the car that you need brakes already?
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Old 07-18-2015, 03:36 PM   #8
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I dont think it is a matter of miles. Because your environment/braking habits can change that dramatically. In Austin, TX, you have to brake every 2 seconds, hard. Because drivers here got their license in Cooking School it seems.
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Old 07-18-2015, 03:43 PM   #9
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I dont know about you guys but I got the Pony package and my brakes fade out quick. Last cruise we did in fall of 2014 my brakes were mush coming down the mountain. My tire were fine. nothing wrong there. it was the brakes for sure. Had them looked at a couple days later and they told me I still had 50% life on them (bought the car in Aug of 2011) and they are the same pads i got when i bought it brand new.
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Old 07-18-2015, 03:57 PM   #10
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^ Mushiness could be old fluid too.

When I swapped from the PP pads to Hawk HPS pads, I noticed better initial bite, but like Mud, not much else.

I had to replace my front rotors at around 30k miles because they got warped and opted to swap out the pads at the same time. I just did my rear brakes at around 55k miles because the pads were getting thin.
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Old 07-18-2015, 04:20 PM   #11
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Not that I have been following it, but many recommend you change your brake fluid every 2 to 3 years.
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Old 07-18-2015, 06:12 PM   #12
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I swapped over to Brembos and I could tell a difference for sure. At first they didn't have the " initial bite", then I did SS lines and fixed that right up. I'm really liking them. I felt the stock brakes were just a little weak and did start to fade after a little while.
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Old 07-18-2015, 08:32 PM   #13
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Well. There was a problem caliper. Replaced it replaced all four originally with posi pads and centric rotors. Then had prob so switched back to dura last gold black


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Old 07-18-2015, 08:34 PM   #14
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Couldn't remember from before if it's the same push. But id say a tad more less? Could it be the posi pads and centric rotors in front?


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Old 07-18-2015, 08:39 PM   #15
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Only reason switched back pads rotors again was because the posi wouldn't made full contact with rotor


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Old 07-19-2015, 12:28 PM   #16
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Engine braking should be used when coming down a mountain. Any brakes will heat up (and warp rotors) if allowed to get too hot.
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Old 07-19-2015, 01:26 PM   #17
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I dont know about you guys but I got the Pony package and my brakes fade out quick. Last cruise we did in fall of 2014 my brakes were mush coming down the mountain. My tire were fine. nothing wrong there. it was the brakes for sure. Had them looked at a couple days later and they told me I still had 50% life on them (bought the car in Aug of 2011) and they are the same pads i got when i bought it brand new.
Braking technique is what cooked your brakes, that and the stock pads really arent up to that abuse. Dragging the brakes - progressive braking - as opposed to hard on/off will heat them up more and cause more wear. Also, the comment about tires was that they are what translate into stopping distance. Put Gt500 15" 6 piston calipers on a car with the stock V6 tires and it wont stop any quicker than it does with the stock V6 brakes.

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Not that I have been following it, but many recommend you change your brake fluid every 2 to 3 years.
40k miles is a good rule to stand by, which works out to about 2 years for me, so your rule of thumb is about right.

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Only reason switched back pads rotors again was because the posi wouldn't made full contact with rotor


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Where did they not make full contact? All the way across, or just on the edges? Its not uncommon for the edges of pads to flare up.
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Old 07-19-2015, 02:06 PM   #18
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Braking technique is what cooked your brakes, that and the stock pads really arent up to that abuse. Dragging the brakes - progressive braking - as opposed to hard on/off will heat them up more and cause more wear. Also, the comment about tires was that they are what translate into stopping distance. Put Gt500 15" 6 piston calipers on a car with the stock V6 tires and it wont stop any quicker than it does with the stock V6 brakes.



40k miles is a good rule to stand by, which works out to about 2 years for me, so your rule of thumb is about right.



Where did they not make full contact? All the way across, or just on the edges? Its not uncommon for the edges of pads to flare up.
Agreed, tires are the only thing that will make a difference in single stop distance. Your base calipers, rotors, and pads will lock the tire WELL before the tire can overpower them. Now if you use the car like me, you need better cooling capacity, which the 14" rotor provides, and a better heat sink and insulator, which the Brembo caliper and pad provide.

I can say from experience, none of the pads I use give good low temp braking, and will be very mushy until they get hot.

I have had a few issues with my rear calipers not evenly wearing the rotor, but that is due to my bent axle, hope it will survive the season...
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Old 07-19-2015, 07:43 PM   #19
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No about a quarter of rotor was not being made contact


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Old 07-19-2015, 07:45 PM   #20
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I guess my question is. Other cars I've owned the brakes seem to bite more. Is it common for this particular stang to have to press brakes a little down first then bite well?


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Old 07-20-2015, 06:58 AM   #21
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mine are not what I call touchy the brembos were. You get used to it, I don't like touchy brakes but am not a racer. idk if they tend to prefer the .001 second of time savings touchy brakes provide over the reduced feel.
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Old 07-20-2015, 07:09 AM   #22
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There are two kinds of racers. The run of the mill guys who are quick like the really touchy pads because they can stop more quickly. The really fast guys like something with a less aggressive initial bite to allow better modulation and to make effective trail braking technique possible. I can say that I have gotten faster since switching from the carbotech and HP+ combo to my current HPS50 and DS2500 combo.
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Old 07-20-2015, 07:12 AM   #23
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I guess my question is. Other cars I've owned the brakes seem to bite more. Is it common for this particular stang to have to press brakes a little down first then bite well?


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This is normal. The brakes in these cars are not confidence inspiring, but once you learn to trust them, they are capable of exceptionally late brake points due to a very generous abs system that loves trail braking, especially with pads that have a smooth bite and release curve.
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Old 07-20-2015, 03:07 PM   #24
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I had the same issue 2 months ago when switching from stock pads to Powerstop and slotted rotors. I also bled the brakes and still the brakes actually seemed worse than before with the worn pads on. I followed the bedding in procedure and the improved slightly.

After taking it easy on the brakes for another week to ensure they were bedding in properly I took it out on some country roads and really tested the brakes out with a number of hard stops giving them time to cool a bit in between and saw considerable improvement. Now they fell better than stock. Just needed to bed them in really well.

Another question - did you clean the new rotors prior to installing? Often times they have a thin coat of oil on them in the packaging.

Hope that helps!


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Old 07-20-2015, 07:11 PM   #25
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Another question - did you clean the new rotors prior to installing? Often times they have a thin coat of oil on them in the packaging.
Great point. I make sure to drench new rotors with Brakleen before installation.
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Old 07-22-2015, 04:52 PM   #26
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Braking technique is what cooked your brakes, that and the stock pads really arent up to that abuse. Dragging the brakes - progressive braking - as opposed to hard on/off will heat them up more and cause more wear. Also, the comment about tires was that they are what translate into stopping distance. Put Gt500 15" 6 piston calipers on a car with the stock V6 tires and it wont stop any quicker than it does with the stock V6 brakes.



40k miles is a good rule to stand by, which works out to about 2 years for me, so your rule of thumb is about right.



Where did they not make full contact? All the way across, or just on the edges? Its not uncommon for the edges of pads to flare up.
I should do a brake fluid flush soon. im going up on 3 years now. Brake pads are still at 30%! Also when i do i think i will get SS lines. The brake fade has to do with the brake fluid temps getting so high that it turns to mush.

I think we can all agree MOST of us are not talking about slamming on the brakes locking them up and letting the tires do all the stopping. We're talking about using the brakes to slow down to a much more controlled speed for taking a turn, coming to a light or exiting a freeway off ramp from 80 mph or so.

My pads fried on one of Muds cruises. Its what happenes when you got the guy in front of you slamming his brakes on every turn and your trying to keep it flowing smooth.
Its just these PP or pp brakes dont do much to begin with.


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Agreed, tires are the only thing that will make a difference in single stop distance. Your base calipers, rotors, and pads will lock the tire WELL before the tire can overpower them. Now if you use the car like me, you need better cooling capacity, which the 14" rotor provides, and a better heat sink and insulator, which the Brembo caliper and pad provide.

I can say from experience, none of the pads I use give good low temp braking, and will be very mushy until they get hot.

I have had a few issues with my rear calipers not evenly wearing the rotor, but that is due to my bent axle, hope it will survive the season...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasmine66 View Post
I had the same issue 2 months ago when switching from stock pads to Powerstop and slotted rotors. I also bled the brakes and still the brakes actually seemed worse than before with the worn pads on. I followed the bedding in procedure and the improved slightly.

After taking it easy on the brakes for another week to ensure they were bedding in properly I took it out on some country roads and really tested the brakes out with a number of hard stops giving them time to cool a bit in between and saw considerable improvement. Now they fell better than stock. Just needed to bed them in really well.

Another question - did you clean the new rotors prior to installing? Often times they have a thin coat of oil on them in the packaging.

Hope that helps!


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Old 07-23-2015, 05:46 AM   #27
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My pads fried on one of Muds cruises.
This falls under the my "At your own risk" disclaimer.

Next cruise is in two days and weather is looking good.
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Old 07-23-2015, 08:08 AM   #28
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This falls under the my "At your own risk" disclaimer.

Next cruise is in two days and weather is looking good.
My question is, is the mud really that strange in your area?
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Old 07-23-2015, 08:29 AM   #29
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Resisting the urge to make inappropriate joke...

So I'm actually coming up on it being time to replace my pads. Any reason why I shouldn't go with a set of Roush slotted rotors from an 05-09 GT? They're right around $100 for a pair of new-in-box on eBay from the Roush outlet store.

Is there a pad that works better with slotted rotors? Once my wheels are on there will be more rotor and caliper visible, so is the upgrade to GT sized rotors worth it for a non-track car? (No, not even the drag strip, spirited stoplight to stoplight is the hardest it gets driven)


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Old 07-23-2015, 08:40 AM   #30
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Old 07-23-2015, 08:51 AM   #31
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Red Mustang?
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:07 AM   #32
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:08 AM   #33
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Heck yea! It was the only thing in the list that stuck out and pertained to us. LOL!
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