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Old 07-18-2015, 09:09 PM   #1
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Suspension upgrade suggestions

My car is a 2014 V6 Manual. I do not plan on lowering my car, because we have flash flooding once in a while during summer in this region.

The only suspension upgrade I have right now is a strut tower brace. I have ordered a Steeda rear chassis X-brace and will install it soon. What should be the next?

Thanks.
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Old 07-18-2015, 09:14 PM   #2
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BMR Rear Lower Control Arms are a common upgrade. Also, GT500 front Strut Mounts is worth looking in to if you are familiar with swapping strut mounts.

Those are just some small ones that won't lower you at all but help as far as launching the car and the strut mounts can get rid of the noise the stock ones make after some time.
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Old 07-18-2015, 09:26 PM   #3
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No reason to change the mount if your not touching the springs. Also if you go with the gt500 mount you need to go to 05-10 shocks up front too. At that point it's cheaper to just buy the j&m caster/camber mounts for the 11-14 front.
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Old 07-18-2015, 09:30 PM   #4
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Sway bars! Got rid of most of the floaty boat feeling when hitting bumps and going around turns. Stiffened up the car overall and made it more fun to drive.
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Old 07-18-2015, 09:59 PM   #5
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Sway bars! Got rid of most of the floaty boat feeling when hitting bumps and going around turns. Stiffened up the car overall and made it more fun to drive.
This is what I'm trying to get rid of. I was going to do some other upgrades but I'm reading some of the aftermarket stuff adds a bunch of noise and I don't want that. What kind of sway bars?
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Old 07-18-2015, 10:25 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Kevin.Cook View Post
BMR Rear Lower Control Arms are a common upgrade. Also, GT500 front Strut Mounts is worth looking in to if you are familiar with swapping strut mounts.

Those are just some small ones that won't lower you at all but help as far as launching the car and the strut mounts can get rid of the noise the stock ones make after some time.
Thank you on the strut mounts! I almost forgot that I did install a LCA a long time ago.

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Originally Posted by mariusvt View Post
No reason to change the mount if your not touching the springs. Also if you go with the gt500 mount you need to go to 05-10 shocks up front too. At that point it's cheaper to just buy the j&m caster/camber mounts for the 11-14 front.
Thank you. What is 05-10 shocks?

---------- Post added at 11:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:25 PM ----------

Thank you! So the factor sway bars are no good?



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Sway bars! Got rid of most of the floaty boat feeling when hitting bumps and going around turns. Stiffened up the car overall and made it more fun to drive.
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Old 07-18-2015, 11:09 PM   #7
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Suspension upgrade suggestions

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Originally Posted by liv4spd View Post
Thank you! So the factor sway bars are no good?

Factory sway bars are okay. They're factory though, so they're designed for mass production and not as good as an aftermarket set.


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Originally Posted by Socal Stangman View Post
This is what I'm trying to get rid of. I was going to do some other upgrades but I'm reading some of the aftermarket stuff adds a bunch of noise and I don't want that. What kind of sway bars?

Depends which bar you get/bushings. I'm running Whiteline heavy duty adjustable front and rear bars. They have some of the best bushings on the market IMO. No noticeable increase in NVH.
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Old 07-19-2015, 09:12 AM   #8
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What's the best brand for sway bars?
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Old 07-19-2015, 10:29 AM   #9
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Suspension upgrade suggestions

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What's the best brand for sway bars?

This comes down to preference. You'll get a lot of different opinions on each one. I personally am a fan of Whiteline because of their quiet maintenance free bushings. Also, their quality and design is superior to most. Not to mention their extremely helpful customer service. Do some research on this topic and I'm sure you'll get a bunch of results.
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Old 07-19-2015, 12:30 PM   #10
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Thank you very much! I just read some reviews about the Whiteline sway bars. The only cons I heard about them is their weak link bolt screws.

Anyone knows the differences between their heavy-duty vs. competition versions?

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Originally Posted by Mean14 View Post
This comes down to preference. You'll get a lot of different opinions on each one. I personally am a fan of Whiteline because of their quiet maintenance free bushings. Also, their quality and design is superior to most. Not to mention their extremely helpful customer service. Do some research on this topic and I'm sure you'll get a bunch of results.
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Old 07-19-2015, 02:12 PM   #11
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This is what I'm trying to get rid of. I was going to do some other upgrades but I'm reading some of the aftermarket stuff adds a bunch of noise and I don't want that. What kind of sway bars?
Sway bars will not help with the body motion. You need shocks and struts. Since you can't add spring rate, you can fool the car into thinking it has more spring with extra damping. Does not harm the ride much due to differences in high speed and low speed motion resistance (high speed for bumps, but low speed for cornering, with low speed defined as 3"/second). I tried autocrossing a Mustang that had sway bars, a watts link, but stock shocks, and it was hands down the worst car I have ever driven (which is saying something, FSAE cars are not known for being well mannered beasts). I refused to take a second run because the handling and cornering were so awful.
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Old 07-19-2015, 02:25 PM   #12
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Sway bars will not help with the body motion. You need shocks and struts. Since you can't add spring rate, you can fool the car into thinking it has more spring with extra damping. Does not harm the ride much due to differences in high speed and low speed motion resistance (high speed for bumps, but low speed for cornering, with low speed defined as 3"/second). I tried autocrossing a Mustang that had sway bars, a watts link, but stock shocks, and it was hands down the worst car I have ever driven (which is saying something, FSAE cars are not known for being well mannered beasts). I refused to take a second run because the handling and cornering were so awful.

The first sentence in this post is completely false. The whole job of a sway bar is to control body roll.
See this link: http://www.directtire.com/auto-repai...emid/1859.aspx

I am speaking from personal experience. When I switched out my factory bars for aftermarket ones, there was a significant difference in handling (less body roll and more firm around turns/bumps.)
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Old 07-19-2015, 03:05 PM   #13
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Thanks for sharing your experiences.

So I'd better buy some lowering springs and shocks? Or there are good non-lowering springs out there that will do the work as well?

If I buy lowering springs and shocks, what else do I need to buy as a package, except adjustable panhard bar and caster camber plates?

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Sway bars will not help with the body motion. You need shocks and struts. Since you can't add spring rate, you can fool the car into thinking it has more spring with extra damping. Does not harm the ride much due to differences in high speed and low speed motion resistance (high speed for bumps, but low speed for cornering, with low speed defined as 3"/second). I tried autocrossing a Mustang that had sway bars, a watts link, but stock shocks, and it was hands down the worst car I have ever driven (which is saying something, FSAE cars are not known for being well mannered beasts). I refused to take a second run because the handling and cornering were so awful.
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Old 07-19-2015, 03:18 PM   #14
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I recently installed the Eibach Pro Kit Springs on my V6. Very pleased with the results. Car not slammed aesthetically and is night and day firmer in corners. Doing it yourself is actually far easier than I originally thought. Just pick up a set of spring compressors. (Got a set online for $20 and they worked fine.)
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Old 07-19-2015, 03:19 PM   #15
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Sway bars do nothing to slow the motion (hence the bit about not helping), but just reduce the max displacement. Instead of large, slow motions, you have medium sized fast motions, which is not good for transitional stability (makes the car twitchy in weird ways, and reduces the amount of peak lateral grip).
A shock absorber will provide a certain amount of resistance to motion relative to the velocity of the motion (for example, 1,600 lbs/in of resistance at 3 in/second of travel speed), which will help control the weight of the sprung portion of the car, along with the frequency of the springs. These cars come underdamped from the factory in both compression and rebound, which causes the boatlike motion (especially the stunning lack of rebound damping on the stock dampers).
Sway bars do help, but only after proper motion control has been implemented. Without shocks, they just make the problem worse.

There is a reason that people like me will spend $5,000 just on a set of dampers (plus a couple thousand to get them revalved a few times), they are the number one concern for a properly operating suspension system.
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Old 07-19-2015, 03:41 PM   #16
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Thanks for sharing your experiences.

So I'd better buy some lowering springs and shocks? Or there are good non-lowering springs out there that will do the work as well?

If I buy lowering springs and shocks, what else do I need to buy as a package, except adjustable panhard bar and caster camber plates?
You do not need to lower the car to put shocks and struts on. I ran Koni's with my stock springs for a few months and it was lovely (the only reason I dropped was to lower my center of gravity). There is only one inexpensive option that I would ever consider, and that is Koni (I may have a used set soon, but they are pretty easy to find for about $400).
The reason being is that Eibach dampers do not have reasonable levels of damping at low speed, Tokicos are your standard Asian crap with WAY too much compression per unit rebound (gets worse with adjustment, which is also a trait of the Asian shock manufacturers), BC makes junk, and KWs have a nasty habit of springing leaks on a regular basis.
One thing to keep in mind with low priced stuff (such as Koni) is that just because the part numbers are identical, does not mean that they are the same. Koni for example, the compression will always be about the same, but the low speed rebound can vary, which means that some adjustment may be necessary if you don't buy from a race shop that has the ability to match a set, or provide the dyno graphs (American Muscle is not that type of shop).

If you do decide to use lowering springs, you definitely want an adjustable shock, and a way to center the axle. These cars have so much camber loss through travel that for street driving, I have even wear with my plates maxed at -2.6 degrees, so a set of Steeda upper mounts would be helpful (they come with a nice roller bearing that will eliminate the pop of the factory mounts).
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Old 07-19-2015, 04:05 PM   #17
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Thank you very much for the insightful suggestions!

Sounds like Koni shocks, some decent springs, and Steeda upper Struct plates is the way to go.

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You do not need to lower the car to put shocks and struts on. I ran Koni's with my stock springs for a few months and it was lovely (the only reason I dropped was to lower my center of gravity). There is only one inexpensive option that I would ever consider, and that is Koni (I may have a used set soon, but they are pretty easy to find for about $400).
The reason being is that Eibach dampers do not have reasonable levels of damping at low speed, Tokicos are your standard Asian crap with WAY too much compression per unit rebound (gets worse with adjustment, which is also a trait of the Asian shock manufacturers), BC makes junk, and KWs have a nasty habit of springing leaks on a regular basis.
One thing to keep in mind with low priced stuff (such as Koni) is that just because the part numbers are identical, does not mean that they are the same. Koni for example, the compression will always be about the same, but the low speed rebound can vary, which means that some adjustment may be necessary if you don't buy from a race shop that has the ability to match a set, or provide the dyno graphs (American Muscle is not that type of shop).

If you do decide to use lowering springs, you definitely want an adjustable shock, and a way to center the axle. These cars have so much camber loss through travel that for street driving, I have even wear with my plates maxed at -2.6 degrees, so a set of Steeda upper mounts would be helpful (they come with a nice roller bearing that will eliminate the pop of the factory mounts).
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Old 07-19-2015, 04:13 PM   #18
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Sway bars do nothing to slow the motion (hence the bit about not helping), but just reduce the max displacement. Instead of large, slow motions, you have medium sized fast motions, which is not good for transitional stability (makes the car twitchy in weird ways, and reduces the amount of peak lateral grip).

For a daily driver car, you are not pushing it to its limits like you are during auto crossing. I doubt the op is going to take a corner at 40mph. I'm not disagreeing that shocks/struts won't help, because they will. I'm just saying that a set of sway bars is a good place to start, especially if the oem shocks/struts are still in good condition. If the car has 60k miles on it, then go for it!
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Old 07-19-2015, 04:17 PM   #19
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So what kind of shocks and struts is every one using?
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Old 07-19-2015, 06:08 PM   #20
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Great to hear that.

My Mustang is a 2014 mode with less than 10k miles.

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For a daily driver car, you are not pushing it to its limits like you are during auto crossing. I doubt the op is going to take a corner at 40mph. I'm not disagreeing that shocks/struts won't help, because they will. I'm just saying that a set of sway bars is a good place to start, especially if the oem shocks/struts are still in good condition. If the car has 60k miles on it, then go for it!
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Old 07-19-2015, 06:45 PM   #21
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Thank you on the strut mounts! I almost forgot that I did install a LCA a long time ago.



Thank you. What is 05-10 shocks?

---------- Post added at 11:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:25 PM ----------

Thank you! So the factor sway bars are no good?
05-10 mustang front struts, they are the ones that work with the gt500 mounts. The difference between the 05-10 and 11-14 struts is that the 05-10 are shorter.
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Old 07-19-2015, 07:37 PM   #22
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The first sentence in this post is completely false. The whole job of a sway bar is to control body roll.
See this link: How does a sway bar work? | Direct Tire & Auto Service

I am speaking from personal experience. When I switched out my factory bars for aftermarket ones, there was a significant difference in handling (less body roll and more firm around turns/bumps.)
He's actually right. The main purpose of sway bars is to control the handling characteristics of the front and rear independently of each other. Think about it, besides the end links, there is nothing the sway bar does to limit body roll, all it is is just a giant torsional spring. The body is literally resting on the shocks / struts, so they are really the only direct relationship to body roll.

For example, my miata was incredibly tail happy, meaning the rear had more grip than the front, so instead of progressively stepping out, the rear would want to come around.

To increase front grip with no other changes, i stiffened my front bar, and now the car has a very progressive nature instead of being tail happy. Sway bars are a tuning tool, but most people just seem to think sway bars = handle better, and its not that simple.
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Old 07-20-2015, 12:29 AM   #23
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I like my whiteline hd adjustable sway bars. I have them both at their shortest setting. OP if you lower your ride you'll need to also put on new lca's and relocation brackets. I like my steeda sport lowering springs with koni strt shocks but since I'm vert I bottom out in back sometimes. Need racing springs and koni yellows
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Old 07-23-2015, 05:48 PM   #24
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Thank you for the suggestions!

Sounds like sway bars or strut/shock and springs should be my next mods.

I just installed Steeda X-brace yesterday. No joke. Cornering is so solid now
Now I come to appreciate suspension mods!

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I like my whiteline hd adjustable sway bars. I have them both at their shortest setting. OP if you lower your ride you'll need to also put on new lca's and relocation brackets. I like my steeda sport lowering springs with koni strt shocks but since I'm vert I bottom out in back sometimes. Need racing springs and koni yellows
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Old 07-23-2015, 08:48 PM   #25
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My budget is limited and want to install these gradually. What is the best way to order them?

This is what I heard:
-Koni struts/shocks are not reliable.
-Sway bars and springs will last forever.

Considering that my car is a 2014 with less than 10k miles, maybe I should just start with sway bars or springs and install the struts/shocks the last?

So which should be the first springs or sway bars?


[QUOTE=liv4spd;2265158]Thank you for the suggestions!

Sounds like sway bars or strut/shock and springs should be my next mods.
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Old 07-23-2015, 08:50 PM   #26
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Do you want a better looking car right now or better performer on the turns and such?
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Old 07-23-2015, 08:56 PM   #27
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The latter of course

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Do you want a better looking car right now or better performer on the turns and such?
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:18 PM   #28
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Sway bars
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:32 PM   #29
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Thank you!

Is front sway bar more important than the rear one?

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Sway bars
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:37 PM   #30
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They are both equally important to me. Why? You tryin to cheap out?
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:39 PM   #31
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Trying to do it one after another.

Thank you!



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They are both equally important to me. Why? You tryin to cheap out?
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:40 PM   #32
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Then you could probably get away with doing the rear one first.
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Old 07-24-2015, 06:43 PM   #33
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[QUOTE=liv4spd;2265274]My budget is limited and want to install these gradually. What is the best way to order them?

This is what I heard:
-Koni struts/shocks are not reliable.
-Sway bars and springs will last forever.

Considering that my car is a 2014 with less than 10k miles, maybe I should just start with sway bars or springs and install the struts/shocks the last?

So which should be the first springs or sway bars?


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Thank you for the suggestions!

Sounds like sway bars or strut/shock and springs should be my next mods.
Koni shocks are extremely reliable. Mine survived a rollover that destroyed the rest of the car (which is why I no longer let people borrow my race car). There is a reason that they are the only dampers under $4,000 that I will buy.
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Old 07-24-2015, 08:35 PM   #34
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One of my friends says he can give me away the stock springs from his 2013 Boss. Will this be an upgrade for my V6?
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