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Old 07-21-2015, 09:59 PM   #1
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More issues .. decisions, decisions..

So .. more issues with my car....

I was driving home from my parents house when I was going through an intersection with traffic lights. I had a green light and a lady in a minivan blew through the intersection (from my left) and turned in front of me. I was in 4th gear (in a 40 mph) and I had to slam the brake pedal and at the same time I pushed in the clutch and went for 2nd gear. Immediately when I pushed in the clutch pedal, I lost my brakes and could not shift the car into 2nd gear. Having nowhere to go (underpass with road construction so only 1 lane) and literally no brakes or clutch, I figured she was about to receive an MCA grille up her stupid ***. Then I just decided F-it and forced the car into 2nd to slow down (Ebrake would have been useless as the road is basically dirt) which thankfully worked. After I knew I wasn't going to slam into her, I tried laying on the horn to let this stupid woman know that she nearly smashed my car and I didn't approve of it, however I could do no such thing as my horn decided it didn't want to work anymore.

Anyways, in forcing the car into 2nd with basically no clutch, I am pretty sure that either the shifter is tweaked or I broke a transmission mount. The shifter now kinda just floats and when accelerating or decelerating, the shifter will move vertically up and down about 3/4 of an inch and will occasionally make a thunk noise. I've experience this a few times in my Z28 when I busted a transmission mount but haven't messed with a remote mounted shifter before.

To add to this, I am confident the clutch in my car just started slipping. I can run the car up to around 4500 - 5000 rpm in 1st or 2nd and stand on it and the car just gets louder, the RPM climbs but the speedo doesn't move much and the car doesn't roll out anything like it used to. I can also shift the car rather easily now (always been able to do this but much easier now) without using the clutch.

Anyways, after all this, I'm quite pissed. Seeing as I have a car that I custom ordered and have less than 23,000 miles on it, the issues I have experienced with this car simply has me to the point of wanting to watch this car burn. In case it hasn't been clear in this post or others, I hate my car.

Here are posts about all the issues I've had with my car -

What would you say are NEGATIVES about our Mustangs

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However, the car will be payed off in a year and I have been trying like crazy to get out of debt.

So, the question is... do I spend a few thousand dollars and attempt to fix all the major issues (clutch/flywheel/TOB/clutch line, brake pads/braided lines, MGW race spec shifter, solid mounts) on this car and possibly enjoy it for the next several years .. or do I take it to the dealer and have whatever fixed under warranty (assuming anything gets fixed) and just fix the other stuff myself and sell it (carmax) or trade it in?

If I were to trade the car in, my budget would be around $45,000.

I'd either go for a Scat Pack Challenger 8spd with the shaker hood, 2016 Camaro SS (assuming they don't suck like the 5th gens), Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi Sport 4x4 regular cab/short bed, Chevy/GMC Colorado/Canyon (loaded), Chevy SS sedan 6spd/MRS, Mitsu Lancer Evo, Subaru WRX STI Limited or any other suggestions that aren't Ford products and NEW vehicles only, not interested in used.
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Old 07-21-2015, 10:03 PM   #2
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Sorry to hear about that. Stupid drivers are everywhere sadly. Since you are worried about debt, I would fix it and keep paying it off. However, if you are REALLY not liking it and you can for sure be ok with getting a new car financed and start all over, then new car it is.
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Old 07-21-2015, 11:51 PM   #3
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I feel your pain, OP. I just had to replace some bearings in my auto transmission at around 55k miles...the shop I used said they'd never seen a failure like that before. I now have a weird driveline whir, which I think may be the OEM driveshaft crapping out...fortunately I have an aluminum one on order that should arrive sometime this century.

Add to that the paint bubbling issues, I'm pretty disappointed with the build quality of the car. I'm not to the point of hating my car yet, but I am probably to the point of avoiding Ford products in the future.
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Old 07-22-2015, 04:32 AM   #4
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I get the pain also, have spent more events driving other people's cars than my own this year.
I have been considering switching to a '16 1LE, if it performs like the numbers say it should, then nobody will be able to win FS or ESP in a Ford product until Ford gets their head out of Audi's market space (the Mustang is now officially in the morbidly obese region next to the challenger).
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Old 07-22-2015, 05:19 AM   #5
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I have no advice for you but sorry to hear that man! Cars suck sometimes but I'm sure you will be happy with your car fixed or a brand new car in the end. Hope you get everything figured out soon.


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Old 07-22-2015, 05:32 AM   #6
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Not what you want to read..............I doubt wtty will cover it. I'll also say I doubt you'll ever like the car and you might just want to get it working and dump it. I understand you'll take a hit but with the luck you've had with it so far do you think it's gonna suddenly get good?

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Old 07-22-2015, 08:07 AM   #7
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Assuming you're willing to tear it apart and take a look here's a few things that may help:

I dont mean to insult your intelligence if you know any of this, im just starting at the bottom and working my way up.

1. Its quite easy to get a good look at the shifter, you basically just pull up on the cup holders to remove the center console, and you can get all up in there. A surprising amount of the shifter is plastic, its possible something got loose.

2. The trans mount has a ton of empty space in it, i doubt that is broken, i literally dont think its even possible to break that with how much room there is.

3. The brakes and clutch share a fluid reservoir. Its likely you just need a good bleeding to sort that out, so likely nothing is critically broken.

All in all, annoying as it is (trust me, i know when you get to the point when you're done with a car and you're just done) it should be some things that are relatively easy to sort out. At least take a look at the shifter and post up some pics / diagnosis.
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:33 AM   #8
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From the laundry list of crap you've taken from your Mustang, I do feel it has been cursed from the start. I completely understand wanting to get rid of it and not touching another Ford for the rest of your life. But with a 45K budget, wouldn't feel good to ride around in a Boss 302? I'm just saying.


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Old 07-22-2015, 10:09 AM   #9
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More issues .. decisions, decisions..

45 grand? Down payment on GT350 or Hellcat or CTS-V.


Pick your poison.
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Old 07-22-2015, 10:14 AM   #10
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WRX :thumbup:

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Old 07-22-2015, 11:02 AM   #11
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+1 wrx
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Old 07-22-2015, 11:08 AM   #12
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I can never recommend a Subaru product that is still in warranty. I know too many national level racers who run stock STis that got screwed by corporate. As soon as a car goes in for a repair, it gets kicked to corporate, who then runs a search, and if they find the car was even registered for an autocross, or made a single pull down a strip, the whole warranty is VOID.
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Old 07-22-2015, 11:11 AM   #13
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Screw a warranty. Who gives a rats *** about a warranty on a Performance car.

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Old 07-22-2015, 11:18 AM   #14
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When your number four cylinder lets go and takes the rest of the motor with it at 11,000 miles, you will care. To put things in perspective, Ford just rebuilt the whole back left corner of my car under warranty, so I am pretty pleased with that. Chevrolet has done the same thing for me in the past.
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Old 07-22-2015, 11:19 AM   #15
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I wouldn't care. My stock motor let go with a lot less on it. That just means it's time to build it

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Old 07-22-2015, 11:24 AM   #16
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So .. more issues with my car....
What you need is a supercharged and twin-turbochargerd Challenger Hellcat X. Probably within your budget because the only way to own it is to win it.
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Write-up: This Dodge Challenger Hides A Unique Setup And Develops 805HP
Don't miss the video.

Best of luck to you.
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Old 07-22-2015, 11:53 AM   #17
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I sure hope you will learn how to panic stop

It does not really matter what you are driving unless it is an old pre-97 car.
When someone pulls out in front of you.
If a kid runs out in front of you.
If an animal runs out in front of you.
ANYTIME YOU NEED TO STOP AS FAST AS POSSABLE
No matter how fast you are going.
With a stick you just push in the clutch pedal and stand on the brake pedal.
That is all there is to it. With Anti-lock brakes you will probably stop just fine and fast in a very short distance with absolutely "NO" Damage. You can never stop faster.

Pulling the parking brake is the very worse thing you can do because it will lock up the rear wheels and I'm sure you know what that does. Never ever pull the parking brake while the car is moving unless you are Ken Block.

With an Automatic all you need to do is stand on the brake pedal. No Clutch to worry about.

Anti-Lock brakes are the best safety feature we have in our late model cars and when you know how to just use the brake pedal ,You will stop fast and secure.
Ronnie

This is a pretty good video of how to use your brakes. The system is the same for all cars so don't worry if this guy is in England.
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:09 PM   #18
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I wouldn't care. My stock motor let go with a lot less on it. That just means it's time to build it

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Then there are those of us who are not allowed to do that due to classing.
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:21 PM   #19
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It does not really matter what you are driving unless it is an old pre-97 car.
I think you missed the part about, "Immediately when I pushed in the clutch pedal, I lost my brakes ..."
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:38 PM   #20
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I personally would keep that Mustang

It is rare It has to be the only car in the world that has the clutch integrated into the brake system.
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:54 PM   #21
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It is rare It has to be the only car in the world that has the clutch integrated into the brake system.
Ronnie
Yeah...I thought it was weird when I found out about that, just a few months back.
They put the dual master cylinder in, some time ago, for safety reasons and then they go and compromise the system by combining it with the clutch system. I'm not at all familiar with how the systems work, or suppose to work, but apparently not very well.
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Old 07-22-2015, 01:02 PM   #22
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If that is the case

I would think the Warranty should cover any damage you have. A malfunction in the braking system is a very serous problem. I hope you go to the dealer and get this problem registered.

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Old 07-22-2015, 01:10 PM   #23
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It is rare It has to be the only car in the world that has the clutch integrated into the brake system.
Ronnie
Surprisingly no, many cars share a reservoir. The Gen 5 camaros do, my mazdaspeed 3 does, my dad's C7 does ... My miata has two separate reservoirs, but its an '01, seems like shared reservoirs are more the norm now.
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Old 07-22-2015, 02:42 PM   #24
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I stand corrected


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Old 07-23-2015, 05:39 AM   #25
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I had a new WRX try to get me to race on a somewhat busy road on my commute home yesterday...of course I didn't but boy did that thing take off and go.

OP, I gotta ask why would forcing it into 2nd help you stop quicker than the E-brake?
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Old 07-23-2015, 06:09 AM   #26
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However, the car will be payed off in a year and I have been trying like crazy to get out of debt.

So, the question is... do I spend a few thousand dollars and attempt to fix all the major issues (clutch/flywheel/TOB/clutch line, brake pads/braided lines, MGW race spec shifter, solid mounts) on this car and possibly enjoy it for the next several years .. or do I take it to the dealer and have whatever fixed under warranty (assuming anything gets fixed) and just fix the other stuff myself and sell it (carmax) or trade it in?

If I were to trade the car in, my budget would be around $45,000.
I guess I'll play the grown up. I know it's not my business but seeing how you posted it on here, how does having a budget of $45k for a car make sense when your trying to get out of debt? Why not fix your current car and put your money towards paying off your debt.
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Old 07-23-2015, 06:09 AM   #27
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I had a new WRX try to get me to race on a somewhat busy road on my commute home yesterday...of course I didn't but boy did that thing take off and go.

OP, I gotta ask why would forcing it into 2nd help you stop quicker than the E-brake?
Where this happened at was a construction zone. There is dirt/sand/gravel all over the road. Using the Ebrake would have simply locked up the tires. Forcing the car into 2nd wouldn't cause the rear tires to lock up. At least that was my thought.

You could experiment and try yourself, find a gravel road, at 30 mph yank the ebrake and see how fast you slow down while keeping the car straight. Do the same but downshift the car into 2nd.
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Old 07-23-2015, 06:41 AM   #28
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More issues .. decisions, decisions..

The e-brake would not lock the tires up on a manual. Have you ever tried using it while in motion? Not using the emergency brake kind of defeats it's purpose.


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Old 07-23-2015, 06:45 AM   #29
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it may lock it at full pull but lever types are easy to regulate...and yes, I've experimented with stopping using E-brake in all my cars as part of the learning curve.
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Old 07-23-2015, 08:01 AM   #30
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You're using a cable connected to the brakes to slow the rear wheels, vs the engine connected to the transmission to slow the rear wheels. I understand its a split second decision, and props to you for at least attempting to do something, but an aggressive downshift is just as likely, if not more, to break the rear end loose.
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Old 07-23-2015, 08:49 AM   #31
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+1 for the quick thinking I was just wondering if you really chose between the two or it was more of an "Oh ____" moment and it was just do something.
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:37 AM   #32
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Well ... My car will chalk up the tires after just 3 clicks on the Ebrake. Factor that and also the fact that there was still a fraction of the brake pressure and the result would likely have been near instant lockup on the rear tires. Also, locking up the rear tires would have killed the engine as the clutch pedal was basically non functional. I could have put the car into neutral and then tried the Ebrake but that would have taken been an extra step and also I would still have had to slam into a gear if I needed one.

This all happened within a few seconds. I'm not one to generally panic as I have been racing various motorized vehicles (successfully) since I was 5. I know how to react in these situations. I chose the best option I could think of at the time and it worked out. I'm not going to say I had everything under control, I was absolutely positive that I was going to hit her, but I didn't and only by less than a foot.


As for the $45,000 budget, if I am going to replace the Mustang, I will be getting a car that I want to drive. I merely stated the issue of getting out of debt as one the primary reason to keep the Mustang.
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:47 AM   #33
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The e-brake would not lock the tires up on a manual. Have you ever tried using it while in motion? Not using the emergency brake kind of defeats it's purpose.


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It's not an emergency brake. It's a parking brake and that's it purpose.
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Old 07-23-2015, 05:44 PM   #34
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I did some digging and found that the clutch and Brakes do use the same master cylin

Some say that an air bubble will cause a nightmare in either or both. If you have a problem with a soft clutch or Brake pedal it is usually that.

I called my friend Jack that runs his Boss 302 and he said that when the race shop preped his car the first time they modified it to use two master cylinders, One works the brakes and one for the clutch.

I love this forum because I learn something new all the time.

It's hard to believe they come up with an anti lock-up brake system and fix it so reliability with it goes out the window to save $5,00 ( About what another M/C would cost the company to install.)

If I were Ish, I would be at the dealer screaming and get this sorted out.
Ronnie
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Airaid Cold Air intake. red caliper covers, 3.7L performance engine cover, Flat black hood spears.Boss 302 strut brace, CDC rear panel, Trunk Cargo net,--Dash carpet cover,
Viser stickers to cover ugly yellow warning crap,Aluminum driveshafft and Swarr Bar.
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Old 07-23-2015, 08:55 PM   #35
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More issues .. decisions, decisions..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ish416 View Post
As for the $45,000 budget, if I am going to replace the Mustang, I will be getting a car that I want to drive. I merely stated the issue of getting out of debt as one the primary reason to keep the Mustang.

So what's your Z/28? Daily or toy?
Or the eagle?

Pick your poison.
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