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Old 07-27-2015, 01:07 PM   #1
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Advice needed for 3.7L base model

Hi guys (and gals), newbie here...

I bought a 2014 new last in April of last year and noticed some issues with it I'll list here. This is a base 3.7 manual. The only reason I haven't gone to the dealer with it before now is I figured it was mostly just break-in issues. However, I finally DID take it to the local service department at the dealer this past Friday, but felt like I was getting the run-around, as everything I pointed out the service manager said felt/looked/acted fine to him. Towing the company line was the phrase that came to mind. So here we go:

1. Shifting. Dear Lord, it's almost like I have to kick the stick into gear, especially at higher RPM's. Either that, or I need to cut a hole in the floor directly behind the clutch pedal so it can get at least another 3 inches of travel, because it ACTS like the clutch isn't being engaged completely. Services guy said it felt super-smooth and perfect for him. On a side note, I've also noticed when my hand is resting on the shifter crusiing down the highway, I can literally feel the tranny move slightly everytime I hit any kind of bump or dip in the road. Seems like that could be related to the primary issue.

2. When releasing the clutch in first in a normal, non-aggressive manner (say, from a stoplight), and then i go to juice it (pedal to the floor), the car tends to stutter for a few seconds before it finally catches on and takes off. It's almost like an old carbeurated model flooding out. It just hesitates. Happens in 2nd and 3rd as well. Seems like there should be an adjustment in the computer to perhaps modify the fuel/air mixture or something of that nature, but alas, the service manager said they don't have access to the computers in these. Then proceeds to tell me I could always buy a chip mod, which would void the warranty. Which makes me wonder why a chip can do it and an authorized service tech can't. In any case, I expect the car to go when I tell it to go, not 3 seconds later. The only other option is to wind it out and pop the clutch. Not something I want to make a habit of.

3. When I run the RPM's high, the air blows hot. Service guy said that is perfectly normal. Is he right?

Thanks in advance for the input.
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:34 PM   #2
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#1 motor mounts, aftermarket shifter, high volume clutch line (in order) helped my shifting also learning the tight gates and to use the centering spring to find 3rd/4th
#2 V8 the 3.7 does not shine till after 4k rpm
#3 yep it's normal to decrease load on engine when you want to boggie.


People use tuners now (similar to chips but different) yep there is a good chance major bits of your wtty will be void. I would put out a feeler for someone on the forum to see if their is different between yours and theirs but it sounds normal.
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:39 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muzikmann53 View Post
Hi guys (and gals), newbie here...

I bought a 2014 new last in April of last year and noticed some issues with it I'll list here. This is a base 3.7 manual. The only reason I haven't gone to the dealer with it before now is I figured it was mostly just break-in issues. However, I finally DID take it to the local service department at the dealer this past Friday, but felt like I was getting the run-around, as everything I pointed out the service manager said felt/looked/acted fine to him. Towing the company line was the phrase that came to mind. So here we go:

1. Shifting. Dear Lord, it's almost like I have to kick the stick into gear, especially at higher RPM's. Either that, or I need to cut a hole in the floor directly behind the clutch pedal so it can get at least another 3 inches of travel, because it ACTS like the clutch isn't being engaged completely. Services guy said it felt super-smooth and perfect for him. On a side note, I've also noticed when my hand is resting on the shifter crusiing down the highway, I can literally feel the tranny move slightly everytime I hit any kind of bump or dip in the road. Seems like that could be related to the primary issue.

2. When releasing the clutch in first in a normal, non-aggressive manner (say, from a stoplight), and then i go to juice it (pedal to the floor), the car tends to stutter for a few seconds before it finally catches on and takes off. It's almost like an old carbeurated model flooding out. It just hesitates. Happens in 2nd and 3rd as well. Seems like there should be an adjustment in the computer to perhaps modify the fuel/air mixture or something of that nature, but alas, the service manager said they don't have access to the computers in these. Then proceeds to tell me I could always buy a chip mod, which would void the warranty. Which makes me wonder why a chip can do it and an authorized service tech can't. In any case, I expect the car to go when I tell it to go, not 3 seconds later. The only other option is to wind it out and pop the clutch. Not something I want to make a habit of.

3. When I run the RPM's high, the air blows hot. Service guy said that is perfectly normal. Is he right?

Thanks in advance for the input.
1. The issue is the pressure plate, its a well documented issue with these cars if you look around. Swapping to a DOT4 fluid will help, swapping to a steel braided clutch line ... there are several fixes on this forum.
Part 2 here about the shifter, the shifter is a remote mounted shifter and the "anchor" is a flimsy rubber bushing. Look at a Barton two post bracket if you want to firm that up.

2. I have no idea what you're talking about here.

3. Ac compressor operates on a clutch, which disengages at high rpm. It is normal.
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Old 07-27-2015, 02:00 PM   #4
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So after sifting through countless posts regarding the bad shifting qualities of the MT82, looks like I should replace the stock fluid with Royal Purple, and if that doesn't do it, some have recommended the Barton two post mount while others have said there's a significant noise factor with that one and the Steeda is better.
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Old 07-27-2015, 02:06 PM   #5
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The Barton shifter itself will have a bit more noise, the two post bracket does not.

Also, Royal purple is the transmission oil, this will help shifter feel, but will not exactly help it go in at higher rpms. What helps at higher rpms is a thicker DOT4 brake fluid since the Clutch and brakes share a reservoir. Basically the stock fluid and line dont have enough "oomph" to disengage the pressure plate at high rpm, which is why the thicker fluid and steel braided line help.
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Old 07-27-2015, 02:20 PM   #6
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The Barton shifter itself will have a bit more noise, the two post bracket does not.

Also, Royal purple is the transmission oil, this will help shifter feel, but will not exactly help it go in at higher rpms. What helps at higher rpms is a thicker DOT4 brake fluid since the Clutch and brakes share a reservoir. Basically the stock fluid and line dont have enough "oomph" to disengage the pressure plate at high rpm, which is why the thicker fluid and steel braided line help.
Ahhhh I see. At least all of this isn't horribly expensive.
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Old 07-27-2015, 03:17 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
The Barton shifter itself will have a bit more noise, the two post bracket does not.

The two post bracket increased NVH on mine.

To the OP:
Invest in the Barton short throw, 2post bracket, and stainless steel clutch line. These three items stopped my high RPM lockouts and made shifting a lot more firm.

Regarding your #2 topic.. As mentioned above, mine doesn't really wake up until after 3k. Look into a handheld tuner to gain some power.
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Old 07-27-2015, 03:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean14 View Post
The two post bracket increased NVH on mine.

To the OP:
Invest in the Barton short throw, 2post bracket, and stainless steel clutch line. These three items stopped my high RPM lockouts and made shifting a lot more firm.

Regarding your #2 topic.. As mentioned above, mine doesn't really wake up until after 3k. Look into a handheld tuner to gain some power.
Its entirely possible my car just makes so much noise i didn't notice the extra haha.
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:19 AM   #9
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Quote:
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The two post bracket increased NVH on mine.

To the OP:
Invest in the Barton short throw, 2post bracket, and stainless steel clutch line. These three items stopped my high RPM lockouts and made shifting a lot more firm.

Regarding your #2 topic.. As mentioned above, mine doesn't really wake up until after 3k. Look into a handheld tuner to gain some power.
What is NVH?

Is yours a GT or V6 model? I have the same appearance package on mine, but completely blacked out.
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:20 AM   #10
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Noise, vibration, and harshness. His is a V6.
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:27 AM   #11
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Noise, vibration, and harshness. His is a V6.
Gotcha. Thanks for the clarification. Anyone know if adding the shifter/bracket combo affects the factory warranty at all?
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:31 AM   #12
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That is a question best suited for your local dealer. Because we can tell you all day long what our dealers will say. But the catch 22 is, all dealers are different.
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Old 07-28-2015, 11:00 AM   #13
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Muzik, it shouldn't affect any part other than the shifter....however talk with your dealer as Kevin suggested. I'll add any dealer that says your transmission wtty (for example) will be voided with the addion of a shifter should be avoided. It helps to say Hi to sales and service every once in a while.
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