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Old 07-29-2015, 11:22 PM   #1
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Good H-pipe?

Hey y'all, currently running a 2012 V6 with Roush Axlebacks and CAI/tuner and looking for a new mid pipe. I was considering headers but lack the cash currently to drop 1k+ on the headers themselves and installation. I was looking at some mid pipes because they add some decent power and can be done with jack stands, as I did before with the Roush AB.

I see a lot of debate between O/R pipes and catted pipes, so I was wondering which one you would think would work better with Roush AB, as they are already pretty loud. I know with O/R pipes i'm going to get more rasp and with catted pipes they are going to be a bit more pricey. If its a good sound, I really don't care if I wake up the neighbors. It would be like a free alarm clock for them!

I was looking at both the Lethal Preformance O/R H-pipe and the MRT catted H-pipe. I also heard the Mac catted H-pipe was good as well. Anyone else know of any others or which of these are the best for a good sound with Roush AB? Also, would a catted H-pipe still add some sound?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 07-30-2015, 06:01 AM   #2
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I wud honestly suggest you try a set of shorty headers before the h pipe. If your looking for deeper sound and reduced rasp the shorty headers will do a better job than the h pipe. Plus the instal is easy and you can do it in a couple of hours


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Old 07-30-2015, 08:03 AM   #3
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I wud honestly suggest you try a set of shorty headers before the h pipe. If your looking for deeper sound and reduced rasp the shorty headers will do a better job than the h pipe. Plus the instal is easy and you can do it in a couple of hours


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I haven't done the install, but this is probably the first time I see anyone saying the header install is easy and only takes a couple hours. Everything I have read out here is quite the opposite. You will have to share your tips with others.


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Old 07-30-2015, 08:17 AM   #4
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It's easy. There only one bolt on each side that sucks on the bbk. It's easier on the other brands though. I've done quiet a few on these motors and there not bad at all. Lots of room to work around these v6motors. It all depends on how much work you've done before on cars. It took me 30min a side and some people took 2 or more hours a side but regardless if you have the right tools anyone can do it. I do recommend a floor jack instead of Ramos though just because you will be up and down several times on the car and it was easier for me to lower the car real quick for the good work. Only three bolts need access from the ground


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Old 07-30-2015, 08:18 AM   #5
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My install with the shorty headers took about 4 hours. This is the norm for most non-mechanic savvy people with basic hand tools.

If you add a different mid pipe without shorty headers and Roush ABs, then you are asking for a car that sounds like hawt garbage.
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:20 AM   #6
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Here is this: MRT Engineering 2011-2014 Mustang 3.7L V6 Performance Catted H Pipe

But you have been warned...
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:22 AM   #7
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Oh and on the passenger side I would remove the starter. Will make that last bolt go on easier.


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Old 07-30-2015, 08:25 AM   #8
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Just an FYI these roush ab get extremely raspy quick if you don't have the proper set up. I tried several different things with mine before getting them how I wanted them. I'm using bbk shorty header. Stock xh pipe with 20" resonator replacements and then roush ab. I love the sound. Has a small bit of rasp very similar to the Borla s types. But it took me 13 try's to get it how I wanted it. But I have the tools and knowledge to be able to do all the cutting and welding myself so for me it was just wasted time as I sold everything or returned it if I didn't keep it.


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Old 07-30-2015, 08:26 AM   #9
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Oh and on the passenger side I would remove the starter. Will make that last bolt go on easier.


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Did you have to use an open ended wrench on that last nut?
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:43 AM   #10
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Yes but only in the bottom rear nut. The only way around this would be to cut the stud about 1/4" shorter so you can squeeze the wrench back off. Had I not been in a hurry to go to a car show I would have done that.

You would have to put the stud back on with out the header in place using two nuts tightend on one another so you can get the stud secure enough


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Old 07-30-2015, 08:55 AM   #11
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:58 AM   #12
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The MRT H pipe with BBK shorties and Borla S-Types doesn't sound too bad...

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Old 07-30-2015, 01:02 PM   #13
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So would somebody with basic hand tools and access to Home Depot be able to install shorty headers? The Roush Axlebacks were a ***** to do so take that as a note of my mechanical skill. Also, with shorty headers, would a O/R H sound good or still bad?
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Old 07-30-2015, 01:06 PM   #14
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So would somebody with basic hand tools and access to Home Depot be able to install shorty headers? The Roush Axlebacks were a ***** to do so take that as a note of my mechanical skill. Also, with shorty headers, would a O/R H sound good or still bad?
O/R pipes are usually without the cats. No Cats + Roush mufflers = Ricey a** sound. I wouldn't recommend it.
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Old 07-30-2015, 02:35 PM   #15
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Also if you had issues with just an ab install I wouldn't recommend doing headers yourself. At the very least get a friends help. Every one has a mechanically Savy friend who for a case of beer will pretty much do anything

Home Depot will have all the tools you need. I forget sizes but at a minimum you'll need a socket ratchet and a few extensions. You'll also need a ratcheting wrench for the nuts on the studs. One end needs to be an open end for the bottom rear nut.




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Old 07-30-2015, 02:36 PM   #16
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Doesn't need to be a ratcheting wrench but you'll thank me later for that lol. I also recommend getting the ratcheting wrench that has the adjustable angle end.


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Old 07-30-2015, 02:37 PM   #17
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I believe the nuts on the headers are 13mm and the ones on the collector are 17mm.
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Old 07-30-2015, 02:39 PM   #18
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That sounds right. Collector is possibly a 19 but I believe your correct at 17. I know I used a 1/2" on the header nuts but 1/2" and 13mm r so close it works fine. 13mm is slightly bigger so it would have been easier


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Old 07-30-2015, 03:47 PM   #19
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Yes but only in the bottom rear nut. The only way around this would be to cut the stud about 1/4" shorter so you can squeeze the wrench back off. Had I not been in a hurry to go to a car show I would have done that.

You would have to put the stud back on with out the header in place using two nuts tightend on one another so you can get the stud secure enough


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Yeah I thought about shortening the stud also but then I got the bright idea to grind down the leading edge of a box end wrench to allow it to get through that small space between the stud and the header. A lot of fun. LOL
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Old 07-30-2015, 04:04 PM   #20
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Also if you had issues with just an ab install I wouldn't recommend doing headers yourself. At the very least get a friends help. Every one has a mechanically Savy friend who for a case of beer will pretty much do anything

Home Depot will have all the tools you need. I forget sizes but at a minimum you'll need a socket ratchet and a few extensions. You'll also need a ratcheting wrench for the nuts on the studs. One end needs to be an open end for the bottom rear nut.




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I would have to agree, get help. AB is extremely easy. If that was difficult, find a friend and enjoy the time together wrenching on your car.


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Old 07-30-2015, 04:33 PM   #21
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Honestly though the header install is not much harder than the ab. Just takes more time because there's more bolts and tight spaces.

Nothing to difficult to it really. Just listening and tightening bolts just like on an ab instal. Just the right spaces issue


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Old 07-30-2015, 06:27 PM   #22
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Alright I'll consider the headers as a possible option then. Anyone know how a MRT Catted H would sound with Roushs? It would still probably be loud but not as raspy I take it?
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Old 07-30-2015, 06:41 PM   #23
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I posted a video of what you could possibly expect. The first one.
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Old 07-30-2015, 06:49 PM   #24
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Just do both. Headers and the h pipe

That's a good sounding combo. I installed that on my buddy's car and it sounds good. I think you'll be happy either way. The shorty headers will help you with low end grunt, deepen the tone and remove some rasp. The hpipe will help reduce rasp but won't notibly deepen the tone. Unless you have a custom hpipe made that's a 1/4" bigger or throw resonators on it.

Just my .02


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Old 07-30-2015, 07:05 PM   #25
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Hmm well I'll think it over the next couple days. Thanks for the help everyone, really appreciate it!
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Old 07-30-2015, 07:06 PM   #26
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I posted a video of what you could possibly expect. The first one.
Wow that actually sounds quite nice IMO. The vid says the owner also has a BBK TB but I'm not quite sure how much of a difference that would make in the exhaust tone.
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Old 07-30-2015, 07:11 PM   #27
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Tb in these cars don't do squat for sound or performance. Been proven on dynos. Don't waste your money. The intake system is fine from factory until you start going fi


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Old 07-30-2015, 07:12 PM   #28
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And to be honest I believe most fi guys leave the factory tb on and just have the fins cut off and polished up


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Old 07-30-2015, 07:19 PM   #29
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And to be honest I believe most fi guys leave the factory tb on and just have the fins cut off and polished up


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Old 07-30-2015, 07:25 PM   #30
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Well think about this while you're thinking about it.
Why go the expense for a catted H-pipe and lose the stock resonators.
Why not consider a custom H-pipe, retaining your stock cats and resonator. It should be much cheaper. I think you may need those resonators in conjunction with the Roush mufflers.(Just based on stuff I've been hearing on this forum.)
If need be, if you wanted to, you could remove the stock resonators, down the road.
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Old 07-30-2015, 07:37 PM   #31
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+1 to that thought. Lol. I kept the stock hx pipe and changed the resonators out and it sounds brilliant.


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Old 07-30-2015, 08:40 PM   #32
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I know I probably couldn't install resonators myself, so I would have to pay someone else to do it. Only shop near me wanted $1100 to install 3.73 gears (Decided to wait on the gears) so I can only imagine it would be very expensive for resonators as well. How would I go about getting a custom H pipe? Just change the resonators?
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:42 PM   #33
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Well you can change the resonators. Change the cats. Change the hx hybrids out. You can change mid pipes. You name it you can change it. Just depends on what your shop will fab up.


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Old 07-30-2015, 09:18 PM   #34
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Get a few estimates for cutting and welding. They're not big time consuming items.
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Old 07-31-2015, 01:46 AM   #35
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Hey if anyone is still here, one last thing. Is the MAC prochamber off-road mid pipe going to give me the same extremely loud rasp that a catless x/h pipe would? The prochamber seems to be different from x/h pipes and I can't find any videos of it without the car already having a **** ton of exhaust mods.

Any experience with those?
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