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Old 08-04-2015, 12:19 PM   #1
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Lowering install info. Needs some advice.

I'll be tackling this project before the American muscle show. I just need some advice as I go along. First is what is the torque specs for rear struts the upper and the lower. I'm referring to this..

Thanks guys

MPT TUNE, Borla S-Type, Airaid Cai, Ford racing X pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, 2010 GT500 rims, 35% tint, Sr Springs, J&M phb, camber bolts, blacked out side markers, front and taillights.
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Old 08-04-2015, 02:35 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by shunc01 View Post
I'll be tackling this project before the American muscle show. I just need some advice as I go along. First is what is the torque specs for rear struts the upper and the lower. I'm referring to this..

Thanks guys

MPT TUNE, Borla S-Type, Airaid Cai, Ford racing X pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, 2010 GT500 rims, 35% tint, Sr Springs, J&M phb, camber bolts, blacked out side markers, front and taillights.
I checked my limited source for torque values and didn't find anything for the rear shocks.
I see the top connection uses thick rubber washers top and bottom. That would indicate to me that there is no torque value for that connection but what you typically do is tighten the nut to a point where the rubber washer is compressed about 1/3 to 1/2 way. You do not compress them completely down.
I didn't notice the bottoms. If they have similar thick rubber washers, you would tighten those the same way.
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Old 08-04-2015, 02:37 PM   #3
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Oh BTW. You probably already know but "cjponyparts" is a good source for videos.
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Old 08-04-2015, 03:10 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Diehard View Post
I checked my limited source for torque values and didn't find anything for the rear shocks.
I see the top connection uses thick rubber washers top and bottom. That would indicate to me that there is no torque value for that connection but what you typically do is tighten the nut to a point where the rubber washer is compressed about 1/3 to 1/2 way. You do not compress them completely down.
I didn't notice the bottoms. If they have similar thick rubber washers, you would tighten those the same way.
Thank you sir, i had the right rear struts installed already the bottom is only holding with bolts and nuts no rubber and i got the specs for it.

and oh i watched a bunch of videos before tackling this to psych myself up. lol
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Old 08-04-2015, 04:05 PM   #5
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Old 08-04-2015, 04:05 PM   #6
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Do you guys think the front shocks is doable with just hand tools? I dont have air tools available.

MPT TUNE, Borla S-Type, Airaid Cai, Ford racing X pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, 2010 GT500 rims, 35% tint, Sr Springs, J&M phb, camber bolts, blacked out side markers, front and taillights.
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Old 08-04-2015, 04:39 PM   #7
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Thank you so much, this help a lot.. ill be done with my shift in an hour i cant wait to install this beast..
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Old 08-04-2015, 04:55 PM   #8
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Do you guys think the front shocks is doable with just hand tools? I dont have air tools available.

MPT TUNE, Borla S-Type, Airaid Cai, Ford racing X pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, 2010 GT500 rims, 35% tint, Sr Springs, J&M phb, camber bolts, blacked out side markers, front and taillights.
I feel you can get by without air tools.
If you have a tough rusted nut, soak the threads with penetrating oil, use 6 sided sockets and if a breaker wrench wont loosen with moderate force firmly tap end of wrench handle with hammer.
I tend to shy away from using too much force, like adding pipe, etc for added leverage. I've sheared many a bolt over the years. Heat is also effective but I wouldn't recommend it. You'll be fine.
I did recently get myself an electric impact gun but I consider it a luxury item.

EDIT: Of course if you have new bolts, I wouldn't worry about shearing the old ones.
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Old 08-04-2015, 04:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shunc01 View Post
Do you guys think the front shocks is doable with just hand tools? I dont have air tools available.

MPT TUNE, Borla S-Type, Airaid Cai, Ford racing X pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, 2010 GT500 rims, 35% tint, Sr Springs, J&M phb, camber bolts, blacked out side markers, front and taillights.
You should have brought them with you last weekend. You could have used my lift and air tools!!!
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Old 08-04-2015, 05:16 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Diehard View Post
I feel you can get by without air tools.
If you have a tough rusted nut, soak the threads with penetrating oil, use 6 sided sockets and if a breaker wrench wont loosen with moderate force firmly tap end of wrench handle with hammer.
I tend to shy away from using too much force, like adding pipe, etc for added leverage. I've sheared many a bolt over the years. Heat is also effective but I wouldn't recommend it. You'll be fine.
I did recently get myself an electric impact gun but I consider it a luxury item.

EDIT: Of course if you have new bolts, I wouldn't worry about shearing the old ones.
lucky you, what brand did you get, can i barrow your air tools? you know where i live lol.. I will use PB blaster and soak it.. and oh do i really need a spring compressor? i saw one in youtube that it is not necessary but definitely would help.
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Old 08-04-2015, 05:18 PM   #11
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You should have brought them with you last weekend. You could have used my lift and air tools!!!
oh thanks for the offer man, oh yeah i remember on the cruise, i really would love to see it.. I just got my shocks and stuts yesterday but i am available this saturday?? lol
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Old 08-04-2015, 05:30 PM   #12
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oh thanks for the offer man, oh yeah i remember on the cruise, i really would love to see it.. I just got my shocks and stuts yesterday but i am available this saturday?? lol
Unless the wife has other plans for me that I am not aware of, I am here on Saturday. If you want to drive down here, you are welcome to use the lift, air tools and spring compressor.
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Old 08-04-2015, 05:35 PM   #13
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Unless the wife has other plans for me that I am not aware of, I am here on Saturday. If you want to drive down here, you are welcome to use the lift, air tools and spring compressor.
oh man, that is awesome let me see if i can tackle this.. i really appreciate it man too bad youre too far away.. Maybe someday...
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Old 08-04-2015, 05:36 PM   #14
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It's a hell of a lot easier with some air tools.
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Old 08-04-2015, 05:39 PM   #15
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lucky you, what brand did you get, can i barrow your air tools? you know where i live lol.. I will use PB blaster and soak it.. and oh do i really need a spring compressor? i saw one in youtube that it is not necessary but definitely would help.
I bought one of those cheap Harbor freight ELECTRIC impact wrenches. No air tools. was looking at them though. My air compressor's too small. Impact wrench speeds up tire rotation.
I wouldn't remember how to get to your house if my life depended on it. LOL
Did you see that video where they remove the front struts without a spring compressor?
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Old 08-04-2015, 05:41 PM   #16
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I bought one of those cheap Harbor freight ELECTRIC impact wrenches. No air tools. was looking at them though. My air compressor's too small. Impact wrench speeds up tire rotation.
I wouldn't remember how to get to your house if my life depended on it. LOL
Did you see that video where they remove the front struts without a spring compressor?
yeah i saw that video, i dont know if its safe to remove it without spring compressor though i think it was that kid on youtube i think his name is eric.

I will look into those when i go to harbor next time. I know my place is hard to find lol hey i still have the other pair of your gloves lol you left it in the driveway.
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Old 08-04-2015, 05:58 PM   #17
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yeah i saw that video, i dont know if its safe to remove it without spring compressor though i think it was that kid on youtube i think his name is eric.

I will look into those when i go to harbor next time. I know my place is hard to find lol hey i still have the other pair of your gloves lol you left it in the driveway.
Yeah those were old spare gloves. Get some use out of them.
Yeah what I did't like about that video was that you had to push down quite a bit on the rotor assembly and put a lot of stress on the brake hose in order to clear the strut assembly for removal.
Here's that video...
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Old 08-04-2015, 06:21 PM   #18
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Yeah those wear old spare gloves. Get some use out of them.
Yeah what I did't like about that video was that you had to push down quite a bit on the rotor assembly and put a lot of stress on the brake hose in order to clear the strut assembly for removal.
Here's that video...
Thanks for the video, I think I will try this but like you said I'm a little leary about the rotor hanging all the way down, but the sway bar assemble is pretty thick so I think it can handle the load. I don't know will see.

MPT TUNE, Borla S-Type, Airaid Cai, Ford racing X pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, 2010 GT500 rims, 35% tint, Sr Springs, J&M phb, camber bolts, blacked out side markers, front and taillights.
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Old 08-04-2015, 10:21 PM   #19
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My rear struts is done wohoooo

MPT TUNE, Borla S-Type, Airaid Cai, Ford racing X pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, 2010 GT500 rims, 35% tint, Sr Springs, J&M phb, camber bolts, blacked out side markers, front and taillights.
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Old 08-07-2015, 03:57 PM   #20
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One side is done, I went back to my stock bolts since my camber bolts is too thin..

MPT TUNE, Borla S-Type, Airaid Cai, Ford racing X pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, 2010 GT500 rims, 35% tint, Sr Springs, J&M phb, camber bolts, blacked out side markers, front and taillights.
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Old 08-07-2015, 04:24 PM   #21
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One side is done, I went back to my stock bolts since my camber bolts is too thin..

MPT TUNE, Borla S-Type, Airaid Cai, Ford racing X pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, 2010 GT500 rims, 35% tint, Sr Springs, J&M phb, camber bolts, blacked out side markers, front and taillights.
Sweet!!!!
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Old 08-07-2015, 05:22 PM   #22
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Sweet!!!!
Its done....... Thanks now im ready for next weekend.. My problem now is how do I get rid of this dirt in my hand.. Lol

MPT TUNE, Borla S-Type, Airaid Cai, Ford racing X pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, 2010 GT500 rims, 35% tint, Sr Springs, J&M phb, camber bolts, blacked out side markers, front and taillights.
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Old 08-07-2015, 05:24 PM   #23
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Do I need another alignment when I just had it done last week? Or its all good..?

MPT TUNE, Borla S-Type, Airaid Cai, Ford racing X pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, 2010 GT500 rims, 35% tint, Sr Springs, J&M phb, camber bolts, blacked out side markers, front and taillights.
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Old 08-07-2015, 05:36 PM   #24
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Lowering install info. Needs some advice.

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Originally Posted by shunc01 View Post
Do I need another alignment when I just had it done last week? Or its all good..?

MPT TUNE, Borla S-Type, Airaid Cai, Ford racing X pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, 2010 GT500 rims, 35% tint, Sr Springs, J&M phb, camber bolts, blacked out side markers, front and taillights.

After lowering, wait about two weeks or more (I waited about a month) for everything to settle and then get it realigned. 4-wheel alignment. Runs about $100. You're not going to get much leeway without the camber bolts though. I saw you mentioned you didn't use them because it's thinner than the opening. That's how they're supposed to be. That way, when you loosen the lower strut bolt to adjust camber bolts, it gives you room to play with.
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Old 08-07-2015, 05:51 PM   #25
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After lowering, wait about two weeks or more (I waited about a month) for everything to settle and then get it realigned. 4-wheel alignment. Runs about $100. You're not going to get much leeway without the camber bolts though. I saw you mentioned you didn't use them because it's thinner than the opening. That's how they're supposed to be. That way, when you loosen the lower strut bolt to adjust camber bolts, it gives you room to play with.
Am I going to be okay without the camber bolts? Alot of people are saying that they are not safe.. I used the gt500 mounts. I thought they are good for alignment. Thanks for the info appreciate it.

MPT TUNE, Borla S-Type, Airaid Cai, Ford racing X pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, 2010 GT500 rims, 35% tint, Sr Springs, J&M phb, camber bolts, blacked out side markers, front and taillights.
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Old 08-07-2015, 06:35 PM   #26
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Lowering install info. Needs some advice.

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Originally Posted by shunc01 View Post
Am I going to be okay without the camber bolts? Alot of people are saying that they are not safe.. I used the gt500 mounts. I thought they are good for alignment. Thanks for the info appreciate it.

MPT TUNE, Borla S-Type, Airaid Cai, Ford racing X pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, 2010 GT500 rims, 35% tint, Sr Springs, J&M phb, camber bolts, blacked out side markers, front and taillights.

After I installed everything, and before alignment, I was just barely out of factory specs. I'm sure you could get away without the bolts. Just make sure you rotate tires regularly if you have a squared setup. if you have a staggered setup, just keep an eye on the tire wear and if it's too excessive, then maybe look into a set of cc plates. I know there's a bunch of debate on them about why people do and don't like camber bolts. I've been using them for about 2k miles now with no issues and I check them regularly. Not really worried about it. Other people are tweaks about using them because a bunch of what-ifs. To each their own though.

I have the GT500 mounts as well. They don't necessarily give you more adjustability, they are just a heck of a lot better quality than the factory crap pieces.
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Old 08-07-2015, 07:01 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Mean14 View Post
After I installed everything, and before alignment, I was just barely out of factory specs. I'm sure you could get away without the bolts. Just make sure you rotate tires regularly if you have a squared setup. if you have a staggered setup, just keep an eye on the tire wear and if it's too excessive, then maybe look into a set of cc plates. I know there's a bunch of debate on them about why people do and don't like camber bolts. I've been using them for about 2k miles now with no issues and I check them regularly. Not really worried about it. Other people are tweaks about using them because a bunch of what-ifs. To each their own though.

I have the GT500 mounts as well. They don't necessarily give you more adjustability, they are just a heck of a lot better quality than the factory crap pieces.
I know what you mean by crap mounts, mine split in half and ball bearing are everywhere,its hard working on them with just hand tools I have to lay the shock in flat so I can get leverage, the second stock mounts was okay since I unrtightened the bolts while it was still sitting in the car but not advisable. So you have gt500 mounts and camber bolts? I will try to just leave the stock bolts in there and if the alignment shop couldn't put it in spec then I will use my camber bolts back.

MPT TUNE, Borla S-Type, Airaid Cai, Ford racing X pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, 2010 GT500 rims, 35% tint, Sr Springs, J&M phb, camber bolts, blacked out side markers, front and taillights.
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