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Old 08-21-2015, 01:05 AM   #1
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Prepping for track day: Brakes on a budget

I'm registered for a track weekend (road racing, not drag strip) in two weeks. This will be my first time road racing. We need to pass an inspection before, one of the requirements is near new brake pads and a brake fluid flush in the past 6 months. Now my car has 50K and I haven't done any brake maintenance yet, so it is definitely time anyway. However, I want to invest in a proper brake upgrade with high performance pads, larger rotors, stainless steel lines in the not-too-distant future, but not now, not for this track weekend. I'd rather just pass inspection for now for as cheap as possible, because I want to just run these down for a short time before I do the major upgrade after this season. So my question is, what is the minimum I could do now to get a great bang for the buck and also not be unsafe on the track?

What I am thinking:

- PowerStop Z23 ceramic pads, front and rear = $80 on AM
- Turning all four rotors = let's say $60
- 3L DOT 4 brake fluid for a full flush = need a recommendation for a good one

What do you all think of this plan? Am I missing anything critical and/or endangering myself? Any other advice?
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Old 08-21-2015, 04:24 AM   #2
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Get a second set for track use. I have oem rotors and i use hawk dtc 70 for the front and dtc 60 for the rear. It's an easy swap once you get used to doing it. Don't skimp on brakes for the track!

Dot 4 fluid is also a good idea. I use motul 600, or has a nice high boiling point.

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Old 08-21-2015, 05:03 AM   #3
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Before turning your rotors down, make sure to mic them and check to see that they are plenty over spec. If you tell me which brake options your car has, I can give you the factory spec from my copy of the service manuals.

Fluid, you can't go wrong with the Motul, but 2 liters will do it, no need for three

Pads, this is a sticky subject. Most cars can get away with a set of Hawk HP+, but not an S197. You need to go to an actual track pad like a Hawk DTC, or a higher number Carbotech. Call Sam Strano, as at this point, you have completely left the realm that AM can give good advice.

Welcome to the deep end of the pool, and recognize two facts, as spoken by Peter Egan.
"Never let your ego outrun your contact patches."
"Auto racing makes a heroin addiction look like a mild desire for something salty."
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Old 08-21-2015, 12:56 PM   #4
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Thanks for the advice. A member contacted me and sold me his Carbotech XP10 front pads for $50, they had seen two track days. He is also selling me his FRPP brake duct kit. I'll let him be anonymous unless he chooses to reveal himself here. I will make these a dedicated track set of pads. I'll decide on something more tame and quiet for my street pair. Not sure what I'm going to do about the rears yet. Might get Carbotech XP8 for the track, to-be-determined for the street, not too concerned about that yet. Just looking forward to the track weekend in two weeks. Yes, jande, I am super excited for it - it has been all I can think about for past few days!
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Old 08-21-2015, 01:01 PM   #5
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It is a blast. What track are you running?

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Old 08-21-2015, 01:07 PM   #6
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Texas World Speedway in College Station. Texas World Speedway
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Old 08-21-2015, 01:09 PM   #7
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Brake ducts will be good I'm sure it's hot down there.

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Old 08-21-2015, 01:10 PM   #8
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God yes it is. Until yesterday it went over 100F every day for about a month.
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Old 08-21-2015, 01:27 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jande063 View Post
Before turning your rotors down, make sure to mic them and check to see that they are plenty over spec. If you tell me which brake options your car has, I can give you the factory spec from my copy of the service manuals.

Fluid, you can't go wrong with the Motul, but 2 liters will do it, no need for three

Pads, this is a sticky subject. Most cars can get away with a set of Hawk HP+, but not an S197. You need to go to an actual track pad like a Hawk DTC, or a higher number Carbotech. Call Sam Strano, as at this point, you have completely left the realm that AM can give good advice.

Welcome to the deep end of the pool, and recognize two facts, as spoken by Peter Egan.
"Never let your ego outrun your contact patches."
"Auto racing makes a heroin addiction look like a mild desire for something salty."
I spoke with Edwin at Hawk a few weeks ago.
He suggested DTC 60 front and Blue 9012 for the rear on my s197

I have 14" Baer pro+6 pistons up front and 14" rear rotors with GT 500 calipers rear. He seemed to think that there was going to be too much rear bias....which I thought was odd, but he's the pro so I went with it.

I'll be running them next month on the 19th so stay tuned on that one.
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Old 08-21-2015, 03:54 PM   #10
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To be honest, I run as little pad in the rear as I can. I am just trying to insulate the caliper with it more than give much in the way of braking force (all of the top guys in AI do this also). That said, I have a fairly unorthodox driving style, most who ride with me for an example of what to do tend to come away with the conclusion that I am out of my mind...

Mustangs like to have a higher front brake bias, as it helps them rotate on braking. It allows you to make use of the weight transfer of small steering inputs to cause the axle to give you rear steer, and if you are using all the available friction at the back for braking, they will scrub instead of pivot.
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Old 08-21-2015, 05:47 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by jande063 View Post
To be honest, I run as little pad in the rear as I can. I am just trying to insulate the caliper with it more than give much in the way of braking force (all of the top guys in AI do this also). That said, I have a fairly unorthodox driving style, most who ride with me for an example of what to do tend to come away with the conclusion that I am out of my mind...

Mustangs like to have a higher front brake bias, as it helps them rotate on braking. It allows you to make use of the weight transfer of small steering inputs to cause the axle to give you rear steer, and if you are using all the available friction at the back for braking, they will scrub instead of pivot.
I drove stock cars for decades...I always had a knob on the dash so I could adjust as needed. I don't like the idea of having someone picking the bias for me and being stuck with it.
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