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Old 08-25-2015, 09:45 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by Rosariors3 View Post
Besides I've never pulled plugs that look like that .


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But you don't know what his plugs will look like. See what I'm saying? He pulls that plug out and says well this guy told me I can use the gap I have on this old plug.
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Old 08-25-2015, 09:50 AM   #72
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But you don't know what his plugs will look like. See what I'm saying? He pulls that plug out and says well this guy told me I can use the gap I have on this old plug.
I am hoping the coil plugs are still good. Should I worry about any other sensors, gunked up cats, or anything else that might potentially start to have issues after 100k miles? Is it me, or do I have the highest mileage Cyclone right now? LOL!
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Old 08-25-2015, 09:52 AM   #73
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I would clean the MAF sensor with some MAF sensor cleaner. Other than that and your tune up, just drive it and enjoy it. Also, what about the serpentine belt? Checked that?
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Old 08-25-2015, 09:59 AM   #74
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If u read the post said that because I thought he was upgrading plugs. I was thinking that because I thought he was changing them out on his 14. I've changed my plugs after 6000 miles and that what I was thinking of. Maybe I should've payed more attention


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Old 08-25-2015, 10:01 AM   #75
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I would clean the MAF sensor with some MAF sensor cleaner. Other than that and your tune up, just drive it and enjoy it. Also, what about the serpentine belt? Checked that?
Good looking out, I have not. I am not the strongest person, so should I take the car in to get that done? Those pulley bolts can be super tight. Plus I am afraid of over tightening or not tightening enough.
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:06 AM   #76
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Good looking out, I have not. I am not the strongest person, so should I take the car in to get that done? Those pulley bolts can be super tight. Plus I am afraid of over tightening or not tightening enough.

Belt is easy man. You just find the tensioner and once you remove any pressure slip the belt off in the easiest place. Bam it's off. Route new belt, reverse process. But look at the belt and see if it has any cracks in it or not. Look at the ribbed part for these indicators. If you can see cracks in most ribs, time to change. It's cheap insurance.

It's against my religion to pay people to work on my car so I will never agree to take it to someone. Lol.
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:09 AM   #77
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I gotcha. Ok, I will look in to that. I should probably also pick up a new Throttle Body gasket JUST to be safe since the car has some miles and wear on it.

Is it possible to over tighten the belt?
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:17 AM   #78
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I just found:

Very good video.
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:22 AM   #79
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That's a splitfire plug. It means that the person who previously owned the car was an idiot. Same deal with my Expedition when I found a Tornado in the intake tract.


As for the plug changes, all good advice except I either missed this piece of advice or it was not mentioned yet...




BUY


A


TORQUE


WRENCH










You have aluminum heads, you need a torque wrench to make sure you do not overtorque and blow out the threads. Look up the spec on your Cyclone but its likely going to be the same 12-15ft lbs as it is on the Modular cars. And that is not very tight at all, not even close to even 1/8 turn. Lots of ppl have ****ed up their plug threads because "I've done plugs for years torque wrenches are for dumbasses".


edit: Also, antiseize on the plug threads when you install and take a can of compressed air and blow out the plug holes prior to removing the old ones.


And do the plugs one at a time to minimize the amount of time the cylinders are open to crud getting into them.
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:39 AM   #80
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^yuuuuup.
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:43 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by Rosariors3 View Post
I honestly don't know what the specs are for ur car and I don't wanna tell u something that wouldn't t be true. I would remove ur old plug and check what that is and match that withy the new plug. When u bought the plug did u specify it was for if car? Even if u did still check the old plug and c where it's set at. Also why r u replacing the plugs?


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With all do respect. This is bad advice. Gap for your plugs can be found almost anywhere. Owner's Manual is one.
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:44 AM   #82
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Even more noob, what kind of Torque wrench do I need? I see their are different kinds.
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:53 AM   #83
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Even more noob, what kind of Torque wrench do I need? I see their are different kinds.

Just get one you can use with your tools that goes to about 150 ft lbs. 3/8 drive. Nothing special.
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Old 08-25-2015, 11:00 AM   #84
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Even more noob, what kind of Torque wrench do I need? I see their are different kinds.
You want one that can do your torque spec lol. Remember there are going to be specs in inch and foot lbs. 12 inch lbs=1 foot lb. So for example, if your plug spec is 12 ft lbs you can use an inch lb torque wrench set to 144 inch lbs (12x12).

Anyway, get this one for the plugs because it is small and you can do 12-15 ft lbs with it (12x12 or 12x15). I am ASSUMING that is the spec for your heads btw, look that up.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Titan/413/23146/10002/-1

Also, while we are on torque wrenchs get this one for whenever you do your wheels or bigger stuff like control arms. Or anything that needs torqued really...


http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...80580/10002/-1

Lugs should be 100 ft lbs done in a "step up sequence. For wheels I generally get them snug, then go to 50 ft lbs, 75 ft lbs and finally to 100 ft lbs in a cross pattern like you are supposed to.
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Old 08-25-2015, 11:28 AM   #85
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With all do respect. This is bad advice. Gap for your plugs can be found almost anywhere. Owner's Manual is one.

I don't get u guys... He was searching and couldn't find it. I said if all else fails go by the plug that's in it(thinking it was for the 14)


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Old 08-25-2015, 11:41 AM   #86
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Don't u think if I new it was as easy as looking at the manual I would tell him otherwise? The op didn't know where to find it and we were trying to figure it out. Bad advise or not I was trying to help him with a solution which unthought at the time wasn't a bad idea thinking the plugs wouldn't have much wear on them being the car was a 14. I'm done explaining myself


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Old 08-25-2015, 12:50 PM   #87
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Don't u think if I new it was as easy as looking at the manual I would tell him otherwise? The op didn't know where to find it and we were trying to figure it out. Bad advise or not I was trying to help him with a solution which unthought at the time wasn't a bad idea thinking the plugs wouldn't have much wear on them being the car was a 14. I'm done explaining myself


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Hey no problem. Don't take it personal. Just trying to help out like everyone else.
But I do think you should keep it in mind that plug gaps tend to get larger with use.
I can't think of an example when one would have to replace plugs without knowing what the gap should be.
But back in the day when points were common, we did use matchbook cover thicknesses as a starter point until we could get a feeler gauge. LOL
But I was only 16 at the time.
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:02 PM   #88
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Kev...
I think Scotty DOES KNOW
But just to confuse you more, here are my thoughts.

As previously mentioned, Owner's Manual says 133 in lbs (11 ft lbs) for spark plugs.
(I can't find torque requirements for the intake manifold)

A wrench calibrated in "inch lbs" would generally be good for low torque requirements such as spark plugs but would be fairly limited.
Also, since I tend not to use many 1/4" drive sockets I personally prefer a 3/8" drive over a 1/4" drive.
Here's an example of a torque wrench that would meet your needs, at Harbor Freight Tools.

3/8" Drive Click Type Torque Wrench

I think it has a comparable accuracy and a fairly useful torque range.
Accuracy: +/- 4%
Torque range: 5-80 ft. lbs.

(I've been using their 1/2" drive for wheels lugs.)
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:04 PM   #89
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I was just going by my experience . I changed my plugs at 6000 miles cause I wanted to upgrade . I didn't notice the gap was any diff . I was assuming his 14 wouldn't have that many miles therefore he could match to what the gap was with those. I don't get offended easy and il admit my error but it's the ppl on here that look for trouble and look to belittle people that know less. Some ppl take my kindness for weakness that when its bite them in the ***. I don't like when ppl hide behind an avatar and talk ****.


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Old 08-25-2015, 01:33 PM   #90
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Well I appreciate all of the help and time people take to help me out. I can seem intelligent on some topics but I am still a noob when it comes to this kind of stuff.
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Old 08-25-2015, 02:12 PM   #91
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I don't get u guys... He was searching and couldn't find it. I said if all else fails go by the plug that's in it(thinking it was for the 14)


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Its bad advice because the gap on used plugs is not going to be in spec most of the time. The electrode gets worn down over time and its going to probably be wider than what he needs.

He can find the stock gap spec from google, if not then his google-fu is turrble.
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Old 08-25-2015, 02:15 PM   #92
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^ can u just answer this?! With a newer car with less then we'l just say 10k miles. Would the plug be that much Diff from the day it was installed?


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Old 08-25-2015, 02:21 PM   #93
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Kev...
I think Scotty DOES KNOW
But just to confuse you more, here are my thoughts.

As previously mentioned, Owner's Manual says 133 in lbs (11 ft lbs) for spark plugs.
(I can't find torque requirements for the intake manifold)

A wrench calibrated in "inch lbs" would generally be good for low torque requirements such as spark plugs but would be fairly limited.
Also, since I tend not to use many 1/4" drive sockets I personally prefer a 3/8" drive over a 1/4" drive.
Here's an example of a torque wrench that would meet your needs, at Harbor Freight Tools.

3/8" Drive Click Type Torque Wrench

I think it has a comparable accuracy and a fairly useful torque range.
Accuracy: +/- 4%
Torque range: 5-80 ft. lbs.

(I've been using their 1/2" drive for wheels lugs.)
The 1/4 drive one is nice for plugs because its small. I have the HF one you linked to but it does not go up to 100ft lbs for wheel lugs so I had to buy the Jegs one which comes with a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer anyway and the shipping is free if he is not near a HF.

That said, I've used the **** out of that HF wrench as well.
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Old 08-25-2015, 02:23 PM   #94
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Well I appreciate all of the help and time people take to help me out. I can seem intelligent on some topics but I am still a noob when it comes to this kind of stuff.

Apparently I gave u bad advice when I was trying to help u with the gap.. If I could do me a favor when u pull ur plug out to c what the gap is and if it fall in between the .047-.053 or whatever it is. Just because I'm curious and nothing else.


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Old 08-25-2015, 02:25 PM   #95
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^ can u just answer this?! With a newer car with less then we'l just say 10k miles. Would the plug be that much Diff from the day it was installed?


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Probably not, especially on a double plat but you never know and even if it wasn't, how would you know if you didn't know the correct spec in the first place? There could be some sort of defect with a coil or plug, who knows.

You always gap to the OEM spec and that's just that.
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Old 08-25-2015, 02:28 PM   #96
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But this is what I'm saying if ur car is running perfectly fine and if u took the gaps from not 1 but all and they were equal then why can't u go with that number?! Do we know what the gap is yea now we do do we now know it's as easy as looking at the manual? Yea now we do but at the moment we didn't know where to find it and as a last resort that when I mentioned at looking at the plugs that were in it.


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Old 08-25-2015, 02:30 PM   #97
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It's bad advice if its easy to find the number. I didn't know this and neither did op so that's why I mentioned doing that


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Old 08-25-2015, 02:40 PM   #98
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But this is what I'm saying if ur car is running perfectly fine and if u took the gaps from not 1 but all and they were equal then why can't u go with that number?! Do we know what the gap is yea now we do do we now know it's as easy as looking at the manual? Yea now we do but at the moment we didn't know where to find it and as a last resort that when I mentioned at looking at the plugs that were in it.


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I'm not trying to be an ***, but when one is doing the plugs one should know the gap before even starting. That's just part of doing it correctly. And also why forums like this exist, someone can tell you where to find the right gap or just tell you flat out what it should be. Or just google it.
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Old 08-25-2015, 02:50 PM   #99
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I guess il just sit back and watch


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Old 08-25-2015, 03:13 PM   #100
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Appreciate all the info but I think correcting each other is over. Lol. I am happy everyone is on the same page now for this info. I will let people know what my experience is this weekend. Not sure if it will be Saturday or Sunday as I might have to go out of town Saturday.
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Old 08-25-2015, 03:15 PM   #101
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Belt is easy man. You just find the tensioner and once you remove any pressure slip the belt off in the easiest place. Bam it's off. Route new belt, reverse process. But look at the belt and see if it has any cracks in it or not. Look at the ribbed part for these indicators. If you can see cracks in most ribs, time to change. It's cheap insurance.

It's against my religion to pay people to work on my car so I will never agree to take it to someone. Lol.
Kevin, you may also want to replace the tensioner (it's cheap and easy to unbolt) for peace of mind. Mine started to loosen up at around 45k miles, which caused belt squeal whenever it rained. New belt and tensioner were around $40 and took me all of 45 mins to swap out.
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Old 08-25-2015, 03:55 PM   #102
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Gap them. I've never had spark plugs come with the CORRECT gap, always a little bit off, the tool is cheap and easy to use. And for the love of god, use a torque wrench when tightening them.
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Old 08-25-2015, 06:19 PM   #103
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Kev...It must be a coincidence but your threads always seem to be the longest. LOL
(But always interesting.)

I'd like to add to couple of items already touched upon.

Serpentine belt - One thought to consider rather than rushing to replacing or if undecided, you could always buy it so you'll have it in an emergency.

Also, if the car doesn't have a label showing the routing of the belt, best to either find the routing or sketch it up ahead of time. It can be confusing once the old one is off. I speak from experience.LOL

Gap gauge - I see they still sell some that only go up to about 0.40 inch. Make sure yours goes up to 0.50.

If it looks like this...
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Name:	Gap tool2.jpg
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Those little notches can be used to adjust the gap.
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Old 08-25-2015, 06:56 PM   #104
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So now that that's settled, time to start the debate about Accele coils? Some say they do nothing and some say the car runs smoother. If nothing else, the yellow looks good.


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Old 08-25-2015, 07:10 PM   #105
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They probably help if you are pushing over 450 rwhp. lol. But we don't have any real experience or dynos on here to show us any different.
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