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Old 09-03-2015, 12:59 PM   #1
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For those of you who purchased an aluminum driveshaft

Have you ever regretted that you didn't get a carbon fiber one? After all, for an additional $400, you get something so cool.

I heard the carbon fiber one is a lot better in damping the torque, because cf is more elastic than aluminum.
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Old 09-03-2015, 01:11 PM   #2
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here is hoping lots of folks say yes so the market for used aluminum shafts drops to a price point that I am willing to spend.
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Old 09-03-2015, 01:28 PM   #3
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Only thing I can say, and I dont regret it sorry Strange Mud, lol, is that it does create more noise than i tohught and maybe the CF doesnt?
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Old 09-03-2015, 01:35 PM   #4
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What iv noticed on mine is the clunk when you put it in reverse but everything else is butter..

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Old 09-03-2015, 01:40 PM   #5
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I'd bet your not going to find many who have spent the extra because the aluminum works great.
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Old 09-03-2015, 01:50 PM   #6
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So aluminum driveshaft gives you more noise? What brand are you using? What kind of noise?

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Originally Posted by Sterlingbeast5.0 View Post
Only thing I can say, and I dont regret it sorry Strange Mud, lol, is that it does create more noise than i tohught and maybe the CF doesnt?
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Old 09-03-2015, 01:52 PM   #7
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Promise you won't feel a difference. Between a stock one or a 1 piece aluminum one or a CF

Idc what anyone says. You won't notice.
The people who say they do are the ones who get all happy happy about a new mod, and get the warm feeling. Then they are like "oh yea I can really tell"


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Old 09-03-2015, 02:08 PM   #8
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You won't feel the difference, unless there are noise and vibration from the new driveshaft

You are saying that I should stay away from this mod and save $700?

I do hear people say that aluminum driveshaft gives them better throttle response, and less clunkiness in the drivetrain. These are things I am after.

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Originally Posted by Rapinator126 View Post
Promise you won't feel a difference. Between a stock one or a 1 piece aluminum one or a CF

Idc what anyone says. You won't notice.
The people who say they do are the ones who get all happy happy about a new mod, and get the warm feeling. Then they are like "oh yea I can really tell"


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Old 09-03-2015, 02:59 PM   #9
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The aluminum shaft also removed some driveline vibration I had around 60 mph, probably because the aluminum shaft is better balanced out of the box than the stock one. So you could argue it's not a benefit of the aluminum material per se.

Given that the CF is only a pound or two lighter and costs nearly double, I'm willing to leave the mysteries of CF driveshafts for someone else to solve.
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:16 PM   #10
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Can anyone tell me why we even have ME??? Raptinator should just post to a website and we all read the gospel?

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Old 09-03-2015, 09:18 PM   #11
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For those of you who purchased an aluminum driveshaft

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sterlingbeast5.0 View Post
Can anyone tell me why we even have ME??? Raptinator should just post to a website and we all read the gospel?

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Take everything i say as you want. But I know these cars and what will work and what won't. Spent a lot of time around them.

The driveshaft is good if your looking for a certain mph to reach or big HP #


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Old 09-03-2015, 09:21 PM   #12
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So reading over people's impressions of a new alum DS install, for the past few months, I think we can positively conclude the following.
Eliminates noises for some.
Causes noises for some.
Improves performance for some.
No difference in performance for some.
None have exploded yet.
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:50 PM   #13
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There sure ain't a thing wrong about installing an aluminum driveshaft on a 3.7 V6

I have the axle exchange one on my 2012 V6 automatic and I don't regret it one single bit.
No Noise, No Vibration. When I let off the gas the car actually slows down and not just want to just keep going. Slightly better throttle response (NOT GREAT AMOUNT) but slightly.

I wish I had put this on my Mustang years ago when I first bought the car.

I'm pretty sure the Carbon Fiber one is fine, But I always wondered what would happen if a rock or something kicked up and took a chunk out of it. It probably would never happen, but You Know???????

It is hard to say if the MPG is better because I don't really drive to save gas. I just enjoy the drive.

I like mine a lot and would buy one again
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:56 PM   #14
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Rapinater126 does say:

Quote:
The driveshaft is good if your looking for a certain mph to reach or big HP #
The only thing I can add to what he says is,
Quote:
If you want one---Buy one

I did !

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Old 09-03-2015, 10:20 PM   #15
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I agree you won't feel no difference from stock it's just in your head because that's what you've been told. I've tried them all


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Old 09-04-2015, 12:33 AM   #16
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Weight Reduction...

Only thing I have noticed was the weight reduction from 43 lbs. to 29 lbs.
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:35 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tym_v6 View Post
The aluminum shaft also removed some driveline vibration I had around 60 mph, probably because the aluminum shaft is better balanced out of the box than the stock one. So you could argue it's not a benefit of the aluminum material per se.

Given that the CF is only a pound or two lighter and costs nearly double, I'm willing to leave the mysteries of CF driveshafts for someone else to solve.
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Old 09-04-2015, 01:31 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie948 View Post
I'm pretty sure the Carbon Fiber one is fine, But I always wondered what would happen if a rock or something kicked up and took a chunk out of it. It probably would never happen, but You Know???????
It would be junked, for sure. I wonder if it would shatter given the properties of CF.
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Old 09-04-2015, 09:24 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liv4spd View Post
You won't feel the difference, unless there are noise and vibration from the new driveshaft

You are saying that I should stay away from this mod and save $700?
We're just going to run this and call it a day lol

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Old 09-04-2015, 09:49 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewMtang View Post
Only thing I have noticed was the weight reduction from 43 lbs. to 29 lbs.
43 lbs is the stock 5.0 shaft weight. The stock 3.7 weight is the 29lbs. The 3.7 aluminum options range from 18-21 lbs.

Going to the aluminum isn't something you'll likely feel. However if you drive it for a while then put the stocker back in you will definitely feel like the car is a little less responsive.

Also the aluminum will be more durable over the long term than the cf.

Lastly if you add a 1 piece driveshaft, please...please... Please get a driveshaft safety loop.
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Old 09-04-2015, 10:00 AM   #21
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If you look at our stock driveshaft, it is actually also a one-piece driveshaft. It doesn't have center bearings like the old two-piece driveshafts. The only difference is that the sliding yoke is in the middle instead of the rear end.

That said, I am still fantasizing the mysteries of better throttle response and less clunkiness when engaging your clutch.



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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
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Old 09-04-2015, 10:03 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liv4spd View Post
If you look at our stock driveshaft, it is actually also a one-piece driveshaft. It doesn't have center bearings like the old two-piece driveshafts. The only difference is that the sliding yoke is in the middle instead of the rear end.

That said, I am still fantasizing the mysteries of better throttle response and less clunkiness when engaging your clutch.
I was just saying in regards to the stock ones breaking, which is why i felt everyone was replacing them to begin with. I feel its almost an urban legend at this point, doesnt seem to happen much any more, but if we're paying for insurance i'd rather spend $100 than $700 ... Not saying DONT get a driveshaft lol just saying im trying to ball on a budget over here and that seems to serve more or less the same purpose.
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Old 09-04-2015, 10:09 AM   #23
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Isn't aluminum driveshaft supposed to be much stronger than the stock one? Why does it entail a safety loop?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mariusvt View Post
Lastly if you add a 1 piece driveshaft, please...please... Please get a driveshaft safety loop.
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Old 09-04-2015, 10:26 AM   #24
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Enough Guessing

Mine is a 2012 3.7 V6 Automatic.
We already know they changed the drive shafts in 2013 even though they look the same.
I just went out and weighed the one that came out of my car.
I particularly like the warning to SCRAP IF DROPPED

I know my Axle exchange aluminum one is 21 pounds
20 pounds is a huge difference any way you want to look at it.
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Old 09-04-2015, 11:01 AM   #25
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I assume the scrap if dropped rule applies for the same reasons...it's a long piece of _____ tube that spins real fast. Balance IS important.

I Think I read that the CF one will make your V6 feel/sound/perform like a V8. If you want to improve your life I'd get a CF one. Since my life is already pretty good I'll buy your used alum one.
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Old 09-04-2015, 11:43 AM   #26
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Where is the story of 29 lbs from?

Maybe for the 2013 and 2014 version?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie948 View Post
Mine is a 2012 3.7 V6 Automatic.
We already know they changed the drive shafts in 2013 even though they look the same.
I just went out and weighed the one that came out of my car.
I particularly like the warning to SCRAP IF DROPPED

I know my Axle exchange aluminum one is 21 pounds
20 pounds is a huge difference any way you want to look at it.
Ronnie
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Old 09-04-2015, 11:54 AM   #27
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Does 20lbs really matter when you have over 300 hp?I can drop 20 lbs just removing the passenger and rear seats of my car dont think it will make that much difference.
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:14 PM   #28
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Does 20lbs really matter when you have over 300 hp?I can drop 20 lbs just removing the passenger and rear seats of my car dont think it will make that much difference.
1 lb rotational is ~ = to 4 lbs dead. That's really closer to 80 lbs in ricer math, and Less rotational mass is always better. That being said, people throw these big *** heavy wheels, on these big *** heavy cars and this that and the other, and the improvement of the driveshaft really is lost.

This mod is really meant to be a "sum of the parts" mod, with your light brakes, and your light rims and tires, and your deleted back seats... it, in and of itself, does not do much but it does help.
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:24 PM   #29
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20# will make a bigger difference in a V6 over a V8 (# per HP)

will it improve your time at the track ?????

edit, I've read the rotation weight counts more.....why?
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:42 PM   #30
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Who wants to buy my dynotech 4" DS?


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Old 09-04-2015, 12:42 PM   #31
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Very happy with my DSS CF drive shaft. It dampens the sound the rear end makes and you don't know its on there. The alum one I had did the opposite clunk turned into clank. Changed over to Carbon Fiber and it really damped the sound of the rear end. There was a 3 lb difference between the two, Had to buy drag radials for the track cause the rear tires would lite off at 5 ft into the 1/4 mile run. Those two changes gave me 3.5 seconds average on my runs anyone that makes a negative comment about a CF drive shaft doesn't own one. The seat of the pants feel, I'm not a strong believer of the dyno butt, My proof has always been the Gainesville raceway 1/4 mile.
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:44 PM   #32
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It is like everything we want to do to our Mustangs

Mustangs are really fine the way they come out of the factory. They run good, look good and I would guess about 75% are just left factory stock. Just driven and enjoyed.
********************************NOW**********************************

There are us that just have to do something to make our Mustangs "OURS" so we spend money we don't have on things we really don't need.
It does make us happy and enjoy our Mustangs a lot more. I am guilty of this my self.

Look at my list of mods and you can plainly see, None of what I bought is really necessary including or should I say "ESPECIALLY" the aluminum drive shaft. But I do gotta say,
Quote:
I do love my Mustang the way I modified it and don't regret one single dollar spent.
It is not only us Mustang owners but people that own other brands get the same fever and put crap on their cars they really don't need BUT WANT and that is what makes us what Barry McGuire calls "CAR GUY"

Hell, I even put a "SWARR BAR" axle brace on my Mustang and I don't even race anymore. What the heck was up with that?????
Just Think, We could be like this guy and really customize our Mustangs

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Old 09-04-2015, 12:51 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strange Mud View Post
20# will make a bigger difference in a V6 over a V8 (# per HP)

will it improve your time at the track ?????

edit, I've read the rotation weight counts more.....why?
Google can explain better than i can:

A rotating mass does not really consume or dissipate energy. A rotating mass stores energy. The rotating mass eventually either returns energy to the system in a useful way, or something converts the stored energy to some other form of unwanted energy. The conversion might be with a friction, converting to heat. The energy stored might be helpful, like the smoothing of cylinder pulses in an engine flywheel. The energy stored also might not do anything at all, or the stored energy can even be harmful, reducing acceleration or braking.

Accelerating an unnecessary rotating mass requires energy, and the acceleration process saps some of the horsepower we have available to accelerate our vehicles. Reducing available horsepower affects acceleration in a very predictable manner, and the horsepower amount needed to spin something up gives us some feel for how important a part change might be.

Four things determine the effect of rotating mass. Every one of these things is important:

How quickly and often a rotating mass speeds up or slows down. Every time it is forced to speed up or slow down, it takes or releases energy
How heavy the rotating mass is. More weight (with no other changes) stores or releases more energy
The rotating weight's distance outwards from the centerline. The further out, the more energy pushed in and out of a given weight
How fast the weight spins, or the speed the weight travels in a given circle diameter. The higher the RPM, the more energy stored
Here are how these things work:

If we push energy into the rotating mass and pull energy out several times, we move more power around than if we make a slow, smooth, change in speed. It takes much more effort to repeatedly speed and slow something in a short period of time than to gradually speed it or slow it
The amount of weight is the least important thing! If we double the weight (with no other changes) we only double the stored energy
Weight distance from the center line is very important, because it determines the weight's circular velocity (speed)! Stored energy goes up by the SQUARE of the radius change. If we replace a 4-inch diameter hollow driveshaft with an 8-inch diameter tube of exactly the same weight, it is not just double. It is twice the size squared, or four times the stored energy when it weighs the same!
The faster we spin the weight, the more energy it stores. If we double RPM, we multiply stored energy four times. Again it is a square of the change, just like weight distance from centerline is a square.
The above is very important. If we double the effective "circle size" the weight is rotating at, we get four times the stored energy. If we simply double the weight without changing the spinning radius, we just double stored energy:

If we reduce mass from twenty pounds to ten pounds, keeping the same distance out and same peak RPM, we reduce stored energy to half the original amount. Reducing weight is a one-for-one change.
If we cut diameter in half while keeping the same weight and RPM, stored energy will be 1/4 the original stored energy. This change is a square. Twice is a "four times" effect. 2*2=4. Four times is a sixteen time effect on stored energy. 4*4=16
If we cut RPM in half, we would reduce stored energy to 1/4 the original amount. Once again this is a squared change. Change RPM three times, and the stored energy changes nine times. 3*3=9
We should carefully think about what this means when we change things. Some changes are worthwhile, some are not. We also cannot use carte blanche rules, like the silly rumor that reducing a rotating weight is like dropping the vehicle weight four times that amount. As a matter of fact, it is probably never four times. It is more likely closer to one, and might even be less than one!


Cited: Rotating Mass, Available Horsepower, and Acceleration
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:58 PM   #34
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Good information

Thanks,
Ronnie
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Viser stickers to cover ugly yellow warning crap,Aluminum driveshafft and Swarr Bar.
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Old 09-04-2015, 01:24 PM   #35
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Volt, the last paragraph made me smile. idk how true it is but unless it involves changing direction I don't understand why rotating would be worse.
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