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Old 10-15-2015, 12:28 AM   #71
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OKAY! So... Finally picked her up and had to run a few errands. All I have to say is... WOW! This is by far the best performance mod I've done on her so far. I am extremely pleased with the results. No gear whine at all. No noticeable noise increase. And so far no noticeable gas mileage decrease. These 3.55s are PERFECT in my opinion for a daily driver who frequently travels on the highway. If you don't do a lot of highway driving, I would recommend the 3.73s. This is how these cars should've come from the factory.

I have to get used to the different shift points and what not, but I am very surprised how much more grunt I have on the low end. Exactly what these 3.7s need. I've done a lot of performance mods to increase the low end and nothing has improved it better than the gear swap.

If you are still running the 2.73s... I recommend changing them out. NOW! You will be extremely pleased with the results and how much it changes the car.

Also... I am from the Chicagoland area and there are a few reputable shops around the area that work specifically on mustangs and the 8.8 rear end. I ended up going with a shop in Arlington Heights by the name of D Mark Performance. His name is Drew and he knows his ****. Builds mustangs and races them and has done a countless number of gear swaps and such. I asked him about gear break in and if I have to change the fluid out after 1,000 miles (this was mentioned previously in this thread) His response was this... There is no real mileage break-in period. BUT there are heat-cycle periods. He says you have to take it easy for a few days and let everything expand and contract properly. Said not to beat up on it until a handful of heat cycles (meaning driving the car for awhile and then letting it sit and cool down). As for changing the fluid... he looked at me like I had two heads when I asked him if I have to change the fluid after a thousand miles or so. He said he has never heard of changing fluid after install because there is going to be no metal shavings or anything in the diff. Again, this is coming from someone who has done a countless number of gear installs and builds racecars for a living. Not only that, but will stand behind his work if something were to happen.

Overall, I am extremely satisfied with the 3.55s and I would recommend them to anyone. I wasn't able to beat on her very much so I kept it under 4k because of the heat-cycle periods. I will update in a few days/week when I hit the track through a separate thread.

What speeds have you drove it at so far? Most people are experiencing gear noise above 40 mph. Mine was between 50 and 60 during decel. Make sure your AC and radio are off. Drive is all the way up to 70. Then decel to say 40. See if it is quiet the entire time.
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Old 10-15-2015, 09:17 AM   #72
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OKAY! So... Finally picked her up and had to run a few errands. All I have to say is... WOW! This is by far the best performance mod I've done on her so far. I am extremely pleased with the results. No gear whine at all. No noticeable noise increase. And so far no noticeable gas mileage decrease. These 3.55s are PERFECT in my opinion for a daily driver who frequently travels on the highway. If you don't do a lot of highway driving, I would recommend the 3.73s. This is how these cars should've come from the factory.

I have to get used to the different shift points and what not, but I am very surprised how much more grunt I have on the low end. Exactly what these 3.7s need. I've done a lot of performance mods to increase the low end and nothing has improved it better than the gear swap.

If you are still running the 2.73s... I recommend changing them out. NOW! You will be extremely pleased with the results and how much it changes the car.

Also... I am from the Chicagoland area and there are a few reputable shops around the area that work specifically on mustangs and the 8.8 rear end. I ended up going with a shop in Arlington Heights by the name of D Mark Performance. His name is Drew and he knows his ****. Builds mustangs and races them and has done a countless number of gear swaps and such. I asked him about gear break in and if I have to change the fluid out after 1,000 miles (this was mentioned previously in this thread) His response was this... There is no real mileage break-in period. BUT there are heat-cycle periods. He says you have to take it easy for a few days and let everything expand and contract properly. Said not to beat up on it until a handful of heat cycles (meaning driving the car for awhile and then letting it sit and cool down). As for changing the fluid... he looked at me like I had two heads when I asked him if I have to change the fluid after a thousand miles or so. He said he has never heard of changing fluid after install because there is going to be no metal shavings or anything in the diff. Again, this is coming from someone who has done a countless number of gear installs and builds racecars for a living. Not only that, but will stand behind his work if something were to happen.

Overall, I am extremely satisfied with the 3.55s and I would recommend them to anyone. I wasn't able to beat on her very much so I kept it under 4k because of the heat-cycle periods. I will update in a few days/week when I hit the track through a separate thread.
Excellent! Can't wait to have mine done now. Glad you have no issues with whining/noise. Thanks for following up with your review. I'm sure this is going to help a lot of people on the fence. Any traction issues at all? Probably not since you're still breaking the gears in, but still curious.
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Old 10-15-2015, 12:10 PM   #73
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What speeds have you drove it at so far? Most people are experiencing gear noise above 40 mph. Mine was between 50 and 60 during decel. Make sure your AC and radio are off. Drive is all the way up to 70. Then decel to say 40. See if it is quiet the entire time.
No noise increase. I was on the highway yesterday doing 80. I have upper and lower control arms which increased the NVH just barely, but my exhaust kind of drowns the noise out and I can't tell any difference after gear install.

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Excellent! Can't wait to have mine done now. Glad you have no issues with whining/noise. Thanks for following up with your review. I'm sure this is going to help a lot of people on the fence. Any traction issues at all? Probably not since you're still breaking the gears in, but still curious.
I'm not able to really beat on her too much, but breaking the tires loose in first is super easy now compared to the 2.73s. I have a set of 285 eagle F1 tires on the rear and they came loose real quick lol. I'll keep you updated after she heat cycles a few more times and I can really put em to the test.
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Old 10-15-2015, 08:07 PM   #74
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I have Fi with 2.73 gears and feel it takes forever when j want to punch it. What do ppl recommend 3.31 or 3.55?


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Old 10-15-2015, 10:22 PM   #75
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Finally pulled the trigger on some 3.55s!!

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I have Fi with 2.73 gears and feel it takes forever when j want to punch it. What do ppl recommend 3.31 or 3.55?


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With a forced induction setup, I think you would be happiest with 3.55s. I've been driving it all day with the new 3.55s and it completely eliminated that low end lag that you're talking about. 3.31s wouldn't be a bad choice either but I think you're still going to have a bit of lag. IMO the decision should be between 3.55s and 3.73s. If you're FI, it would be more beneficial to go with the 3.55s because you will be sitting in your power band longer.
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Old 10-19-2015, 01:56 PM   #76
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I'm picking my 14 up this afternoon. Went from 2.73 - 3.55. How much do you think my speedometer will be off until I get it reprogrammed ?? Thanks for the info...


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Old 10-19-2015, 01:58 PM   #77
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about 30% I'm assuming MT...AT shift point will be messed up
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Old 10-19-2015, 03:44 PM   #78
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Automatic. Just trying to get a rough idea..


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Old 10-20-2015, 06:38 AM   #79
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Kevin....you gave the mustang to the wife?????


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Old 10-20-2015, 07:19 AM   #80
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Kevin....you gave the mustang to the wife?????


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Dang where have you been? lol. I thought you got rid of the car or something.

I gave A mustang to the wife to drive. I drive a 2011 3.7 now. Kona Blue like yours also. Got a few pics on my profile.
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Old 10-20-2015, 08:04 AM   #81
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Automatic. Just trying to get a rough idea..


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idk but you MAY have trouble running an automatic with gears and no tune....
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Old 10-20-2015, 09:45 AM   #82
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For auto, you can try putting it in sport mode so you can shift manually. Not perfect, I know, but it will be a little smoother than letting your car do it since it's not programmed for the new ratio. It's fine if you need to drive it back home from the shop, but you're going to want to get it tuned soon. Keep in mind your speedometer will be off so it would be helpful using something like GPS to keep track of how fast you're actually going. If you don't have a GPS unit that shows your speed, there are free apps for phones that do it. That or just drive it slow. Let us know how it performs after you break them in and tune them. I read someone's experience with 3.55s on another forum and they were very disappointed...until they got a tune. That streamlined a lot of things and made the car really make full use of the gears. Guy was very happy after that.

I finally ordered my 3.55s last weekend from AM. I was planning on having them installed this upcoming Saturday, but I had a bit of a fail installing the LCAs. I wanted to install those myself since it looks simple enough, but wasn't able to get the bolts loose on the stock ones with just the socket wrench. Mechanic wanted $125 for install if I did it at the same time as the gears! I decided to buy a breaker bar & torque wrench from amazon ($50 for both) and give it another go this weekend. Can't hurt to have those tools anyway and I'd save more than half on install. If it goes well, I'll get them installed the weekend after.
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Old 10-20-2015, 10:34 AM   #83
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ya gotta love getting new tools when you have a reason instead of the "idk, because it was shiny?" excuse
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Old 10-21-2015, 10:58 AM   #84
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Automatic. Just trying to get a rough idea..


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You will be okay to drive home without tuning. Just take it easy. No Wide open throttle.

And when I did it, the speedo was off by like 10 mph. Just bring a GPS with you that shows speed
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Old 10-21-2015, 03:46 PM   #85
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Yea Thanks, just got home with it. The shifts weren't to bad. Speedo was definitely off but that's to be expected. Taking it to the dealer on Friday. Spoke with the service dept yesterday and he said bring it in and they would program in the new ratio ..


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Old 10-21-2015, 05:51 PM   #86
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For auto, you can try putting it in sport mode so you can shift manually. Not perfect, I know, but it will be a little smoother than letting your car do it since it's not programmed for the new ratio. It's fine if you need to drive it back home from the shop, but you're going to want to get it tuned soon. Keep in mind your speedometer will be off so it would be helpful using something like GPS to keep track of how fast you're actually going. If you don't have a GPS unit that shows your speed, there are free apps for phones that do it. That or just drive it slow. Let us know how it performs after you break them in and tune them. I read someone's experience with 3.55s on another forum and they were very disappointed...until they got a tune. That streamlined a lot of things and made the car really make full use of the gears. Guy was very happy after that.

I finally ordered my 3.55s last weekend from AM. I was planning on having them installed this upcoming Saturday, but I had a bit of a fail installing the LCAs. I wanted to install those myself since it looks simple enough, but wasn't able to get the bolts loose on the stock ones with just the socket wrench. Mechanic wanted $125 for install if I did it at the same time as the gears! I decided to buy a breaker bar & torque wrench from amazon ($50 for both) and give it another go this weekend. Can't hurt to have those tools anyway and I'd save more than half on install. If it goes well, I'll get them installed the weekend after.
I assume you're spraying plenty of penetrating oil. And tapping the nuts shapely helps the penetration oil do its thing.
Whacking the end of your wrench handle with a hammer helps breaking it loose without shearing bolts.
Hex sockets preferred.
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Old 10-22-2015, 07:03 AM   #87
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Hi Diehard, I didn't use penetrating oil since the car has less than 6k miles on it and didn't see any signs of rust. I was using a regular socket wrench and tried hitting the end with a hammer, but didn't budge. Thought popped into my head that even if I used a metal rod to extend the handle and finally pry it loose, how would I know if I were tightening it enough after I had to re-install? At that point, I figured it was best to order the right tools and not risk it so I got the breaker bar and torque wrench. Would spraying some WD-40 help loosen it even if there's no rust? Hopefully won't have any issues when I give it another go this weekend. The breaker bar is 24" and has some good heft to it. Plus, like strange mud said, it doesn't take much to convince me to get a new tool jaja
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Old 10-22-2015, 09:20 AM   #88
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it may have locktite on it....solution = fire!
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Old 10-22-2015, 09:33 AM   #89
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Lol no you don't need fire. A breaker bar should be just fine. They're torqued down to 129ft lbs which isn't really that much considering the lugs are torqued to 100ft lbs.
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Old 10-22-2015, 10:58 AM   #90
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Anyone, Can I correct my gear ratio with a X-4 tuner even if I don't have my tunes yet ?


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Old 10-22-2015, 11:26 AM   #91
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Per their website:
Axle Ratio
Allow you to set the axle ratio (gear ratio) to correct shift patterns and the speedometer on your vehicle.

SCT Performance - SCT X4 Power Flash Ford Programmer**Part Number: 7015

I've never used it since I just load what STEEDA sends me, but there's also a user guide link on the right of the page that should show you how to do this. Good luck
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Old 10-22-2015, 11:59 AM   #92
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Yea Thanks. I'm going to try it when I get off today. If I can do it myself instead of going to dealer, great..If not I should have tunes sometime next week..


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Old 10-23-2015, 12:48 PM   #93
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Hi Diehard, I didn't use penetrating oil since the car has less than 6k miles on it and didn't see any signs of rust. I was using a regular socket wrench and tried hitting the end with a hammer, but didn't budge. Thought popped into my head that even if I used a metal rod to extend the handle and finally pry it loose, how would I know if I were tightening it enough after I had to re-install? At that point, I figured it was best to order the right tools and not risk it so I got the breaker bar and torque wrench. Would spraying some WD-40 help loosen it even if there's no rust? Hopefully won't have any issues when I give it another go this weekend. The breaker bar is 24" and has some good heft to it. Plus, like strange mud said, it doesn't take much to convince me to get a new tool jaja
Well the Wd-40 certainly wouldn't hurt.
Although I always think about heat for problems like that I don't like suggesting it due to the dangers involved.
I'm always reluctant to use brute force, since I've sheered so many bolts over the years. And sometimes purposely when you know something just isn't going to cooperate.
Good luck with the breaker bar!
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Old 10-23-2015, 02:19 PM   #94
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Thanks for all the tips everyone. I'll update you guys on how it goes. After this, trip to the mechanic to pop in those 3.55s, hopefully for next weekend.
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Old 10-24-2015, 04:06 PM   #95
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I also want to Thank you all for the help I receive from these forums . Just got my X4 today. Was able to program the gear change in. Just took her for a test drive and the speedo and shift points are all working great. I have a slight whine from about 40 mph to stop. Taking it back to the shop next week for hopefully a small adjustment to fix that..


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Old 11-16-2015, 10:00 AM   #96
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Hi All,

I know this thread is a little old, but wanted to post my experience. Finally got my 3.55s installed this past weekend. The shop I took it to was backed up for a few weeks, but they were extremely knowledgeable and helpful so I decided to wait until they had some free time and get it installed there. Glad I did as the gears sound very smooth with no additional grinding/noise. Other upgrades I've done to my v6 auto convertible are Airaid CAI, Steeda Tune, BMR LCAs, and MBRP Catback exhaust. I still have the stock 215/65/17 tires, which are 28", but figured I'd try the new gears out first to see how traction/acceleration is before deciding if I need more and drop to a diameter closer to 27". Here are my thoughts.

So far, haven't pressed the accelerator pedal more than half-way since I'm still breaking in the gears & bearings, but the power is noticeable. The car revs a bit higher, but not that much around town since transmission shifts to a higher gear. Before, I'd cruise around 1.5-1.7k and shift would be around 2-2.2k, but now the car cruises around 2-2.1k and shift closer to 2.5k if I'm driving conservatively. Highways around 70mph rps are around 2.2k so not bad at all. I can hear my exhaust a little louder because of the higher rpms, but to me that's a positive since there's no drone and I love the sound. I was afraid that with the convertible it would be too loud, but not at all.

Haven't driven it enough to determine how mpgs are affected, but since the car is in higher gears around town and the rpms on highway aren't that high I'd say avg mpgs increased based on my driving habits, not to mention I'm finally using 6th gear. Much peppier even though I'm going easy on the throttle - can't wait to finally go WOT and see full capability.

So far, I'm very happy with them as the car definitely feels like it has more power on demand as people have stated. If WOT isn't as aggressive as I'd like, I'll probably change the wheels to 255/45/18 which have a diameter ~27" and should make the acceleration even more aggressive. As with most people who are deciding on gear ratios, especially 3.55s vs 3.73s, it comes down to the trade-off between power and mpgs. From my understanding, 3.73s cause the driveshaft to spin an extra ~5% per wheel revolution so the performance is very close. For what I want my car to be, I think the slightly lower rpms, noise level, and slightly better mpg the 3.55 offers over the 3.73 makes me the happiest. Will let you guys know my final thoughts once I break it in after a few hundred miles and drive more aggressively.

P.S. the LCA install was a breeze after getting the torque wrench. Also, anyone in the NJ area looking for a reputable shop at 1/3 the price of what dealerships were quoting me, I highly recommend Blue Ribbon in Lyndhust, NJ. Small unassuming shop, but both owners specialize in Mustangs and do great work.

Sorry for the long post! Hope it helps someone on the fence about which gear to get.
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Old 11-16-2015, 01:38 PM   #97
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Just got my 3.55s and install kit today can't wait to get them installed ..quick question to you guy who got them did you also have to buy the pinion bearing separate also for the 2010-2014 mustangs install i got the ford racing gears and install kit
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Old 11-16-2015, 02:04 PM   #98
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Just got my 3.55s and install kit today can't wait to get them installed ..quick question to you guy who got them did you also have to buy the pinion bearing separate also for the 2010-2014 mustangs install i got the ford racing gears and install kit
My car only had 6k miles and my mechanic said to buy the full kit. I bought the complete kit from AmericanMuscle (Gears, shims, bearings, oil, fm, etc.) and everything came with it. Didn't need anything extra. Make sure you get it done at a reputable shop and you'll be very happy.
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Old 11-16-2015, 03:21 PM   #99
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Thanks for your input going to buy the bearing for sure .Talked to the mechanic today came highly recommended worked for a ford dealership has his own garage now with all the tool and gauges to do it right
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Old 11-16-2015, 04:38 PM   #100
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You're bearings and what not are barely breaking in at 6k miles. My installer was able to reuse everything except the pinion bearing. He said don't waste your money on the install kit because it is not needed unless you have upwards of 30-40k miles.
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Old 11-17-2015, 02:23 PM   #101
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How much were the 3.55 if you guys don't mind me asking?


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Old 11-17-2015, 07:00 PM   #102
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Check around American Muscle is a good place to start but there's deals out there with black Friday and cyber Monday coming up .
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Old 11-18-2015, 07:27 AM   #103
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Originally Posted by iamcesarmiranda View Post
How much were the 3.55 if you guys don't mind me asking?


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I got the 3.55 gears with the kit from AmericanMuscle. Came out to around 263 after forum discount. Might be worth waiting until Black Friday to see if there are any deals, though.
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:44 PM   #104
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I got the 3.55 gears with the kit from AmericanMuscle. Came out to around 263 after forum discount. Might be worth waiting until Black Friday to see if there are any deals, though.

Did you install yourself?


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Old 11-23-2015, 08:18 AM   #105
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I love working on my car and do as much as I can myself, but gears was something I thought best to leave to the professionals. If you're off even a tiny amount you'll have noise/grinding which can range from annoying or lead to the gears breaking, depending on how off the shimming is. The shop charged me 300 and my car is as silent as it was with the stock gears. If you're mechanically inclined, there are some really good tutorials on how to do it yourself, but it wasn't something I wanted to try on my own. If you have a friend that knows how to do it, then maybe you could set aside a weekend and try it, but if it's just you and you've never done it, I'd say spend the extra cash and have a reliable shop do it. It'll cost you between 250 - 400 depending on your location and car if you do it at a reputable shop. Make sure they guarantee their work (willing to fix it at no charge if there's grinding/noise) and that they've worked on mustangs before.
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