Weight reduction for my Mustang V6 - Mustang Evolution

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Old 10-06-2015, 08:35 PM   #1
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Weight reduction for my Mustang V6

One of the main reasons I chose the V6 is the lighter weight, and better weight distribution. I'm a Miata type of person. I enjoyed reviving my engine to WOT more than the speed itself.

Over the last several weeks, I have removed my spare tire and passenger seat. The difference was absolutely noticeable. Now my car is a three-seater. The passenger seat has more leg room than any car I've ever sited in In comparison, the rear seats weigh nothing. I'll keep them there.

Right now, I am in the process of relocating my battery to the trunk.

Any other suggestions when it comes to weight reduction?
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:43 PM   #2
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Depends, how much NVH can you take? There is a lot of sound deadening, and padding throughout the car you can take out. Also if you have power leather seats you can ditch those for lighter race seats. Everything you do though will make it a little bit rougher and less tolerable to drive if its your daily. I know this from experience currently lol
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:46 PM   #3
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Thanks for the reply.

My car is already very noisy after I installed Boss springs. That said I want to keep the sound deadening materials.

Glad I opted for manual cloth seats

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Depends, how much NVH can you take? There is a lot of sound deadening, and padding throughout the car you can take out. Also if you have power leather seats you can ditch those for lighter race seats. Everything you do though will make it a little bit rougher and less tolerable to drive if its your daily. I know this from experience currently lol
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Old 10-06-2015, 10:10 PM   #4
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Weight reduction for my Mustang V6

Cutting down the weight of components with rotational mass would help a ton. For example: wheels, driveshaft, flywheel

Also, carbon fiber panels would save a lot of weight.
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Old 10-06-2015, 10:22 PM   #5
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Cutting down the weight of components with rotational mass would help a ton. For example: wheels, driveshaft, flywheel

Also, carbon fiber panels would save a lot of weight.
This. Every pound of unsprung weight equals 10 pounds of sprung weight. In other words, if you buy wheels that are 5 pounds lighter per wheel, it will be the equivalent (roughly) of taking 100 pounds off your car (2WD car).

I bought new 19 inch wheels for my old CTS and while the wheels were very nice they weighed a mammoth 31 pounds each. There was a VERY noticeable reduction in acceleration after I installed them.
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Old 10-06-2015, 10:24 PM   #6
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ditch the rear seats with a delete kit. they are heavier then they look
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Old 10-06-2015, 10:30 PM   #7
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ditch the rear seats with a delete kit. they are heavier then they look
I took the rear butt seats out of mine to add some noise reduction underneath and can say with confidence that the butt part will save you MAYBE 6 pounds. I was shocked at how light that entire piece is.

Now the back rests I'm sure are heavier.
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Old 10-06-2015, 10:52 PM   #8
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I took the rear butt seats out of mine to add some noise reduction underneath and can say with confidence that the butt part will save you MAYBE 6 pounds. I was shocked at how light that entire piece is.

Now the back rests I'm sure are heavier.
thats's what i meant sorry ^^. when we put the cage in my friends v6 and took the rears out the back rests were much heavier then the bottom portion. of course that was a new edge model. maybe the newer models are super light compared?
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Old 10-06-2015, 10:56 PM   #9
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thats's what i meant sorry ^^. when we put the cage in my friends v6 and took the rears out the back rests were much heavier then the bottom portion.
They'd have to be lol Can you believe how light that butt seat is?? I was blown away.
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Old 10-07-2015, 12:48 AM   #10
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They'd have to be lol Can you believe how light that butt seat is?? I was blown away.
Yeah, I also was surprised on how feather-light they were. I had them out last year to put some Dynamat underneath.

Re weight savings, maybe swap lead-acid for a dry cell battery?
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Old 10-07-2015, 08:05 AM   #11
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Ask yourself what your end goal is. Are you removing weight so the car feels lighter? Accelerates faster? Turns better? The reason i ask, is because you have to also consider the impact of removing weight from certain places.

The 5.0 has a 52/48 front to rear distribution, and the V6 likely isn't much better (the weight of the engine is tiny compared to the weight of the car), and all the free weight to remove is in the rear, which causes the ideal weight distribution to suffer further.

Note* The following are "on paper" scenarios.

Removing weight from the rear can hurt acceleration (traction), because you're no longer getting the same weight transfer onto the axle.

Removing weight from the rear can make the rear a little more floaty when cornering and driving aggressively.

Ideally, the best weight distribution for a "performance car" is 47 F / 53 R, not the magazine sought after 50/50. Having a slight rearward bias really helps put power down, helps weight transfer, and basically just makes the car function better. So, not saying pulling weight out of the rear is bad, realistically the more weight you can remove the better, but you also want to focus even more effort on the front of the car. If you have a good set of coilovers, you can also have the car corner balanced to make the most of your weight reduction. Its basically the same as adding a tune to your engine as far as performance is concerned.

Check out this kit for relocating the battery for better weight distribution.
https://www.blowfishracing.com/elect...ation-kit.html
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Old 10-07-2015, 08:20 AM   #12
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I agree. From a drag racing perspective, removing weight is a typical practice. BUT, look in the trunks of a lot of drag cars, especially ones that run sanctioned events where they have to make a certain weight. They usually have to add a ton, but since it's in the back, it does help traction.

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Old 10-07-2015, 08:45 AM   #13
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Yeah, I also was surprised on how feather-light they were. I had them out last year to put some Dynamat underneath.

Re weight savings, maybe swap lead-acid for a dry cell battery?
Off topic but using sound dampener on the area under the back seats makes a pretty big difference, doesn't it? On mine I coated the entire trunk which made a noticeable difference, but when I did under the seat it quieted up the cabin very nicely. I even added wall insulation under the seat for extra noise reduction and firmed up the butt area a little. lol
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Old 10-07-2015, 08:47 AM   #14
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I just want to remove the back seats so I dont have to be a "choice" to be DD for the night , Hey I may want to get throwed/trashed too!
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Old 10-08-2015, 08:29 AM   #15
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I've heard swapping the driveshaft for a one-piece aluminum or carbon fiber one will drop some weight and have a noticeable increase in acceleration, not to mention being able to remove the speed governor without worry, if your tires are rated for the higher speeds that is. Replacing the wheels and exhaust can shed weight, but it looks like you already did those mods.
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Old 10-08-2015, 08:59 AM   #16
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3 seater? I'm going to say it's still a two seater but now the passenger will sit in the back seat. It's the only way you can fit a adult back there is by removing the front passenger seat.

1/2 tank max gas?
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Old 10-08-2015, 12:53 PM   #17
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3 seater? I'm going to say it's still a two seater but now the passenger will sit in the back seat. It's the only way you can fit a adult back there is by removing the front passenger seat.

1/2 tank max gas?
Yeah, the back seats are perfect "kid" size, but you need to be a contortionist to fit anyone over 5' in there.
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Old 10-08-2015, 01:28 PM   #18
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Used to go on double dates with my roommate and his gf and whoever I was dating at the time in my 95 Cobra. For some reason we always both wound up with girls in the 5'2/5'3 range and they usually wanted to go in that vs his Sebring (lol).


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As for weight removal. Unless you get serious you won't really get TOO much out of there but if it feels better to you then go for it. You can always do what I'm doing and cut back on the beer/fried food intake and drop some weight out of the driver's seat too lol.
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Old 10-08-2015, 01:31 PM   #19
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Yeah, the back seats are perfect "kid" size, but you need to be a contortionist to fit anyone over 5' in there.
5 foot tall wife for the win
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Old 10-08-2015, 01:36 PM   #20
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I'm the neighborhood arse hole so take this or leave it.
If mom and dad bought you the 14 V6 and probably have no idea what you're doing to it, please reconsider all this nonsense. You're making a really nice daily driver into a junk boy racer mobile. If you're not interested in attracting a woman who is worth keeping for the rest of your life, or if this is to impress the other boys in the walmart parking lot on Saturday nights, then you're nailing it.
Somebody has to say it....it's not a race car. Don't ruin it. Opted for the V6 because of the weight distribution? I frigging spit out my chocolate milk! Baahahaha!
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Old 10-08-2015, 01:45 PM   #21
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Mhmm chocolate milk! But as usual Waylap does have a point but then again its your car.....All of this is just advise.....DO what the F$#K you wanna do!
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Old 10-08-2015, 01:49 PM   #22
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I'm the neighborhood arse hole so take this or leave it.
If mom and dad bought you the 14 V6 and probably have no idea what you're doing to it, please reconsider all this nonsense. You're making a really nice daily driver into a junk boy racer mobile. If you're not interested in attracting a woman who is worth keeping for the rest of your life, or if this is to impress the other boys in the walmart parking lot on Saturday nights, then you're nailing it.
Somebody has to say it....it's not a race car. Don't ruin it. Opted for the V6 because of the weight distribution? I frigging spit out my chocolate milk! Baahahaha!
somebody has been skipping their meds again....you read a lot more into the OP's post than I got out of it.
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Old 10-08-2015, 01:58 PM   #23
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I read back through trying to figure out where he said his parents bought ir
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Old 10-08-2015, 06:19 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Waylap1 View Post
I'm the neighborhood arse hole so take this or leave it.
If mom and dad bought you the 14 V6 and probably have no idea what you're doing to it, please reconsider all this nonsense. You're making a really nice daily driver into a junk boy racer mobile. If you're not interested in attracting a woman who is worth keeping for the rest of your life, or if this is to impress the other boys in the walmart parking lot on Saturday nights, then you're nailing it.
Somebody has to say it....it's not a race car. Don't ruin it. Opted for the V6 because of the weight distribution? I frigging spit out my chocolate milk! Baahahaha!
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Old 10-09-2015, 02:16 AM   #25
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Op you can invest some money in shedding a bunch of weight up front by getting those tubular BMR k member and front lower control arms and radiator support. I'm going this route later this winter. Already have the BMR radiator support. That would help with that weight distribution Voltwing is talking about
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Old 10-09-2015, 04:40 PM   #26
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My point of view is make the car ride and feel how you want.

Creature comforts for me are nice. I love my power leather seat and for the look and comfort do not feel the fabric manual seat will save much weight for me to notice. Also You really dont see many high performance cars with cloth seats and non-power adjustments. Some special Porches do and Lotus had a couple but they are mostly track cars, which is fine if you are ok with a slightly louder noise and rougher ride.

For me its adjustng the way the engine drives with tunes and performance mods to get the "lighter" feel I have now, but I agree lighter wheels would help the car accel much faster and feel lighter. It's why i chose the PP (Pony Package) over the PP (Performance Package) because I wanted the looks over the factory performance mods. I would have just replaced the springs and gears in it anyway and i also did not want the heavier 19" wheels and the more expensive tires.
We don't have Hondas where you HAVE to shed weight because it lacks so much trq. You will most likely end up with a stripped out car and not be that much faster.

So there's that or you can just hit the gym. She'd some weight there. You'll loose some pounds look and feel good and your car will be lighter! 2 birds one stone! LOL
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Old 10-10-2015, 07:25 PM   #27
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Thank you.

They are kind of expensive though.

K-member: $500 for 18 lbs saving,
radiator support: $200 for 10 lbs of saving.

Not sure if it is worth it.

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Op you can invest some money in shedding a bunch of weight up front by getting those tubular BMR k member and front lower control arms and radiator support. I'm going this route later this winter. Already have the BMR radiator support. That would help with that weight distribution Voltwing is talking about
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Old 10-11-2015, 01:35 AM   #28
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I also read (but could be wrong), that some of the tubular front suspension components might not be a good choice if you live in an area with potholes (like the Northeast in the winter) as they aren't as durable as the stock pieces. Not sure if that's 100% accurate, but worth looking into before monkeying with things.
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Old 10-11-2015, 01:44 AM   #29
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I also read (but could be wrong), that some of the tubular front suspension components might not be a good choice if you live in an area with potholes (like the Northeast in the winter) as they aren't as durable as the stock pieces. Not sure if that's 100% accurate, but worth looking into before monkeying with things.
Depends on the brand. UPR i would say falls into that category. MM though, no way. I know someone who caught air at an autocross because of a crappy ditch cross they had to do and he came down and the K member smashed the ground. Only damage was a tiny bit of powder coat flaked off.
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Old 10-11-2015, 05:13 AM   #30
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I also read (but could be wrong), that some of the tubular front suspension components might not be a good choice if you live in an area with potholes (like the Northeast in the winter) as they aren't as durable as the stock pieces. Not sure if that's 100% accurate, but worth looking into before monkeying with things.
and we know how durable the stock stuff is.
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Old 10-11-2015, 06:04 AM   #31
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and we know how durable the stock stuff is.
Totally. Stock parts will easily last 50+ years...dog years, that is...
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Old 10-11-2015, 08:07 AM   #32
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Thanks for sharing. Are you talking about all of the aftermarket K-member as a whole? Are there some brands, say, BMR, which are more durable than others?

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I also read (but could be wrong), that some of the tubular front suspension components might not be a good choice if you live in an area with potholes (like the Northeast in the winter) as they aren't as durable as the stock pieces. Not sure if that's 100% accurate, but worth looking into before monkeying with things.
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Old 10-12-2015, 06:51 PM   #33
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I was thinking of taking out my spare aswell but it just makes me feel really cautious. I feel like my tire would pop the same day lol. I do have a carbon fiber hood which made a great difference !


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Old 10-17-2015, 05:28 PM   #34
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Have you thought about an enema? It should lighten your load and reduce your weight.
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Old 10-17-2015, 07:45 PM   #35
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Have you had a flat tire recently?

Most of the new cars have tire pressure monitoring system, which helps us maintain proper tire pressure. That will significantly reduce the chance of a blown tire.

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Originally Posted by iamcesarmiranda View Post
I was thinking of taking out my spare aswell but it just makes me feel really cautious. I feel like my tire would pop the same day lol. I do have a carbon fiber hood which made a great difference !


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2014 Mustang 3.7L cyclone engine with 6 spd transmission. Mods: 93 MPT Race Tune, 3.31 Gears, Airaid CAI, BBK Shorty Ceramic Headers, Corsa Sport axle backs, Strut Tower Brace, Steeda rear seat X-brace, BMR Rear LCAs, GT wheels, MGW race spec shifter, Passenger seat delete, spare tire delete, Moroso battery relocation to the trunk.
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