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Old 10-29-2015, 11:53 AM   #71
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Today I will be taking out the NGK plugs from my 2011. It just does not seem to run "right". It is smoother then the old a** plugs that were in it before. But still a tad rough.

I will be putting OEM ones in this one as well.

I would assume to fully benefit from the NGK plugs, you would need to be a bit more modded then just a tune.
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Old 10-29-2015, 12:12 PM   #72
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The ngk plugs vs motorcraft plugs wont really make a difference. the only time you want to obtain a difference via ngk plugs is when you need a certain racing plug or a temp rating change, usually when you boost. Otherwise, if you go to a parts store and they look up ngk plugs for your car, they will only list OEM equivelents. Between motorcraft platinums an ngk v power's, i have not noticed any difference.

For anyone that is noticing a loss of power or any roughness in their engine, there are a few regular maintainence items to check.
for a full tune up, you want to change your plugs, wires (if applicable), pcv valve, air filter, fuel filter.
If you want to take a chemical route, then throw some fuel system cleaner in the gas tank, and run seafoam through your vacuum line and in the crankcase to clean out any old oil deposits/sludge. You can also use Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner to get rid of any film or deposits on your maf sensor.

I know a lot of people have differing oppinions on seafoam and gas treatments.
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Old 10-29-2015, 12:14 PM   #73
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The ngk plugs vs motorcraft plugs wont really make a difference. the only time you want to obtain a difference via ngk plugs is when you need a certain racing plug or a temp rating change, usually when you boost. Otherwise, if you go to a parts store and they look up ngk plugs for your car, they will only list OEM equivelents. Between motorcraft platinums an ngk v power's, i have not noticed any difference.

For anyone that is noticing a loss of power or any roughness in their engine, there are a few regular maintainence items to check.
for a full tune up, you want to change your plugs, wires (if applicable), pcv valve, air filter, fuel filter.
If you want to take a chemical route, then throw some fuel system cleaner in the gas tank, and run seafoam through your vacuum line and in the crankcase to clean out any old oil deposits/sludge. You can also use Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner to get rid of any film or deposits on your maf sensor.

I know a lot of people have differing oppinions on seafoam and gas treatments.
These were the ones from MPT. If I Recall, they are 1 step colder plugs. At least they got me over for a bit. LOL
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Old 10-29-2015, 12:23 PM   #74
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These were the ones from MPT. If I Recall, they are 1 step colder plugs. At least they got me over for a bit. LOL
I dont know in great detail to much about plugs temp ratings, just that for different reasons like boosting, you need to change that temp rating, otherwise it negatively affects your cylinders. there was a drawback to both sides (when no change is needed). so i would imagine that you wont be running quite right until you throw in some OEM or OEM equivelents. a clean wrong plug can still be better than a dirty right plug. but nothing beats a clean right plug.
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Old 10-29-2015, 12:26 PM   #75
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I dont know in great detail to much about plugs temp ratings, just that for different reasons like boosting, you need to change that temp rating, otherwise it negatively affects your cylinders. there was a drawback to both sides (when no change is needed). so i would imagine that you wont be running quite right until you throw in some OEM or OEM equivelents. a clean wrong plug can still be better than a dirty right plug. but nothing beats a clean right plug.
True that! And the plus is I would have done a spark plug change so many times on a cyclone that I now feel comfortable doing it instead of pulling my hair out. The upper intake manifold removal seems frustrating to everyone at first. But it REALLY isn't that difficult.
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Old 10-29-2015, 12:29 PM   #76
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usually isnt too bad. Its more or less a matter of knowing what to do, then it becomes quite simple. been through this feeling on several vehicles. the only thing im worried about on my wifes nissan, is not wanting to order and pay for a new intake gasket. otherwies i would have pulled a spark plug just to see how the irridiums are doing at 90k miles. at this point, might as well wait for the first stutter, then just change em.
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Old 10-29-2015, 01:27 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by Kevin.Cook View Post
These were the ones from MPT. If I Recall, they are 1 step colder plugs. At least they got me over for a bit. LOL
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Originally Posted by fenixignition View Post
I dont know in great detail to much about plugs temp ratings, just that for different reasons like boosting, you need to change that temp rating, otherwise it negatively affects your cylinders. there was a drawback to both sides (when no change is needed). so i would imagine that you wont be running quite right until you throw in some OEM or OEM equivelents. a clean wrong plug can still be better than a dirty right plug. but nothing beats a clean right plug.
You will want to be running a colder plug when boosted. the hotter plugs tend to increase chances of detonation. Also unless your car is already boosted from the factory you will want a shorter than factory rating in your gap. it's hard to say how much shorter but short enough to prevent the boost from blowing out the spark...I'm not 100% what its called though.
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Old 10-29-2015, 02:22 PM   #78
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So just got done swapping the plugs on the 2011 from NGK to Motorcraft. Definitely smoother now. I am new to alot of this so now I know the difference that 1 step colder ones give vs. normal ones. I figured with a tune and 93 gas it wouldn't be too much of an issue. But it still ran rough enough to notice.
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Old 10-29-2015, 02:29 PM   #79
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ALWAYS check to make sure the gap is correct. Plugs come gapped, but I can't tell you how many times I've checked them and they've been off. Better safe than sorry.
+1 on this...gaps can vary quite a bit out of the box.
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Old 10-29-2015, 03:17 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by Kevin.Cook View Post
So just got done swapping the plugs on the 2011 from NGK to Motorcraft. Definitely smoother now. I am new to alot of this so now I know the difference that 1 step colder ones give vs. normal ones. I figured with a tune and 93 gas it wouldn't be too much of an issue. But it still ran rough enough to notice.
What is you used higher temp plugs?
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Old 10-29-2015, 03:24 PM   #81
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What is you used higher temp plugs?
I don't quite understand. The car had the 1 step colder NGKs from MPT. I swapped them for the OEM Motorcraft ones.
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Old 10-29-2015, 05:51 PM   #82
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I don't quite understand. The car had the 1 step colder NGKs from MPT. I swapped them for the OEM Motorcraft ones.
If....sorry, what if you used a hotter plug?
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Old 10-29-2015, 06:08 PM   #83
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If....sorry, what if you used a hotter plug?
Not quite sure to be honest. But the car is running really good with the OEM plugs now.
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Old 10-29-2015, 09:44 PM   #84
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If....sorry, what if you used a hotter plug?
I would GUESS that since a colder plug is recommended to help prevent pre-ignition ping that a hotter plug would be more apt to cause pinging.
On the other hand, the higher octane(93) the better able the fuel is to resist detonation (pre-ignition ping).
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Old 10-29-2015, 11:50 PM   #85
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air intake, catback exhaust, ECU tune, larger tire and wheel, etc.....
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Old 10-30-2015, 07:32 AM   #86
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air intake, catback exhaust, ECU tune, larger tire and wheel, etc.....
No, no no. We are talking CHEAP and easy...not just easy.





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I would GUESS that since a colder plug is recommended to help prevent pre-ignition ping that a hotter plug would be more apt to cause pinging.
On the other hand, the higher octane(93) the better able the fuel is to resist detonation (pre-ignition ping).
Hmm, I thought a hotter plug just ment that when it sparked it was...well hotter and created a more efficient burn. Something along the lines of if you're N/A use hotter boosted use colder...I could be way off and crossing my culinary knowledge with what little car knowledge I have
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Old 10-30-2015, 07:45 AM   #87
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Heat rating and heat flow path of NGK Spark Plugs
Some basic structural factors affecting the heat range of a spark plug are:

Surface area and/or length of the insulator nose
Thermal conductivity of the insulator, center electrode, etc.
Structure of the center electrode such as a copper core, etc.
Relative position of the insulator tip to the end of the shell (projection)
The major structural difference affecting the heat rating is the length of the insulator nose. A hot-type spark plug has a longer insulator nose. The insulator nose of a hotter spark plug has a longer distance between the firing tip of the insulator, and the point where insulator meets the metal shell. Therefore, the path for the dissipation of heat from the insulator nose to the cylinder head is longer and the firing end stays hotter. The insulator nose of a hotter spark plug also has a greater surface area that is exposed to more of the ignited gases and is easily heated to higher temperatures. A colder spark plug functions in an opposite manner.

The heat range must be carefully selected for proper spark plug thermal performance. If the heat range is not optimal, then serious trouble can be the result. The optimal firing end temperature is approximately 500°C (932°F) to 800°C (1472°F). The two most common causes of spark plug problems are carbon fouling (< 450°C) and overheating (> 800°C).
NGK Spark Plugs

Heres some basics on spark plugs. this quote is directly about heat ranges. basically, you want to use the heat range that your engine is engineered for.

you mentioned that you had spark plugs from MPT. do you meant as a brand name, or from a tuner? As far as i know, even with a tune on a stock motor, you shouldn't usually change your temp rating. The customers i have that go look through catalogues for different heat ratings, and different seating and such on spark plugs are building race engines.
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Old 10-30-2015, 07:48 AM   #88
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Mpt is the tuning company. Probably best known by the 11-16 3.7 guys. They sell the 1 step colder ngk plugs.
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Old 10-30-2015, 09:10 AM   #89
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I would THINK if hotter/colder plugs increased HP/MPG in a stock engine Ford would have done that.

edit: thx to DieHard for posting a link to help me with my Loves CRV!

I liked the comments where someone said, this guy can do it with one hand while holding a video cam in the other......
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Old 10-30-2015, 09:13 AM   #90
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I would THINK if hotter/colder plugs increased HP/MPG in a stock engine Ford would have done that.

You give Ford too much credit. Lol. They are always trying to skimp out on Features when they can.
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Old 10-30-2015, 09:15 AM   #91
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You give Ford too much credit. Lol. They are always trying to skimp out on Features when they can.
nah, even if it was just mpg at the cost of a bit of horsepower, they would have taken it. but they strived for balance, so in some ways, your right. but if changing the heat range on a plug would have granted them hp and mpg gains, they would have a higher hp number to display and less money to give up for those cafe standards.
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Old 10-30-2015, 09:53 AM   #92
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you also have to remember service intervals and maintenance costs. If they used hotter plugs maybe there might be a need to change the plugs sooner? Could also hurt the MPG or even the HP #.

Heres a small snipit i found:
Hot Spark Plugs vs. Cold Spark Plugs

Not sure if its correct but it makes sense to me.

Heres another: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/spark-plugs-tips/
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Old 11-02-2015, 07:41 PM   #93
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The spark plugs actually do help alot when you renew it everytime...i would go with silver ones from mmr..better spark and cleaner fuel efficiency....
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Old 11-06-2015, 02:09 AM   #94
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Good thread!
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Old 11-12-2015, 12:16 AM   #95
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Always stick with Motorcraft and the engineered heat range.
Surprising results, I have changed out plugs that were measurably worn out and havent seen a performance change
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Old 11-12-2015, 08:28 PM   #96
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The airflow sensor, o2 sensors, and air filter, and fuel filter are usually the first culprits. Simply put, the wrong amount of air or fuel is getting to the engine. Plugs rarely go bad to the point where they cause problems in a stock engine. Not without pinging and other very obvious warning signs.

I can't tell you how many cars I've had where swapping out the o2 sensor made the biggest improvement, though. They seem to die around 50-60K.
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Old 11-12-2015, 08:43 PM   #97
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I dont know anything about the o2 sensors on these cars. Could you explain where exactly these are on these cars and how to change them?

Is it an easy plug n play swap?
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Old 11-12-2015, 08:57 PM   #98
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I dont know anything about the o2 sensors on these cars. Could you explain where exactly these are on these cars and how to change them?

Is it an easy plug n play swap?
Kev...On the 3.7 there's 2 per exhaust pipe. one upstream of the cats and one connected to the cat. The one upstream helps control how the engine runs and the other I believe monitors if the cats are working properly.
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Old 11-12-2015, 09:02 PM   #99
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Ahh so are these plug n play? Meaning if i get my car in the air, can a person like me change them?
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Old 11-12-2015, 09:08 PM   #100
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Ahh so are these plug n play? Meaning if i get my car in the air, can a person like me change them?
I don't see why not. But I wouldn't think you would want to replace them unless you had some reason to suspect a problem.
The CEL codes will sometimes give an indication of a potential problem with them.
I think you're letting JOberlanders comment give you some ideas.
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Old 11-13-2015, 01:09 AM   #101
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I agree on not replacing them without a reason CEL, you will just waste money with zero gain
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Old 11-15-2015, 06:44 PM   #102
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Hey guys I need some help, my car is running rich and doing random mifires. The CEL stop coming up which was for random misfire. It does it randomly, but when wot it surges because it's running rich. I have bbk lt headers catless, bbk 73mm tb sr spaces, airaid cai and just did new accel coils beliving it was a bad coil... I checked my plugs which are ngk iridium with 30k miles or so... still intact no bad gap nothing. I replaced the fuel reading valve that's on the intake... I can't figure it out what's going on I think it's something small. But when I press it on neutral and goes back to idle it goes down in rpms and then goes back to idle speed.

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Old 11-15-2015, 06:46 PM   #103
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Plugs are fine... and no it ain't oil it's anti seize

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Old 11-15-2015, 07:08 PM   #104
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Is your car tuned? If not, best to get one. If you do, might need a revised tune.
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Old 11-16-2015, 10:33 PM   #105
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Is your car tuned? If not, best to get one. If you do, might need a revised tune.
I have Bama tune already did 3 different tunes from them :/

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