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Old 10-27-2015, 07:21 AM   #1
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Rear Strut Work

Sorry if this thread is already posted. Chasing my 1 year old around makes it difficult to surf like I use to. This little guy does a full sprint through the house nowadays.

On topic, I have been hearing a clunky sound when I hit bumps the past month. I assume one of my struts is going bad, but I'm not sure. If anyone that possibly have had this problem can point me in the right direction will be greatly appreciate. I am not trying to waste time or money on parts that will not fix the problem. Especially if it comes to being strut work being needed. I am of the mindset that if one goes bad it is time to invest all the way around, so compensation doesn't cause further problems down the road.

Further pin pointing.... I do believe it is the driver side rear strut, but not sure. I just know that no matter how insignificant the bump in the road is, I hear the clunky sound coming from the driver side read tire area
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Old 10-27-2015, 07:24 AM   #2
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Get your car lifted, grab each rear suspension part and check for abnormal play (panhard, sway bar, control arms, etc). If everything feels fine, it could be your Rear Shocks.

How many miles on your car? Are you using stock shocks with lowering springs?

If you did change 1 shock, change both. As for my 2011, I had to drop the rear sway bar as it was blocking the bottom bolt from coming out. This is a very simple replacement.
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Old 10-27-2015, 07:33 AM   #3
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My entire suspension is stock. I have roughly 55K on it. The topography in my city is really rough on suspensions


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Old 10-27-2015, 07:38 AM   #4
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Well ~50k miles is about the target for the life of shocks and struts. So you are due for replacement anyways.
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Old 10-27-2015, 07:42 AM   #5
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Hmmmm. Very sad news to here. Was hoping for a very inexpensive solution lol


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Old 10-27-2015, 07:43 AM   #6
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Sometimes the worst news is what saves someones life. Don't want to be cruising around on worn out shocks and struts. Because it will start to wear out the other suspension components quicker.

So, it COULD be worse.
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Old 10-27-2015, 07:55 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Tyriqq View Post
Hmmmm. Very sad news to here. Was hoping for a very inexpensive solution lol


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Another quick check you could make is your over the axle pipes. You don't have to raise the car or anything for this.

Look at where it connects to the axleback. Follow it back to where it goes over the panhard support brace. See if it has any give to the point where an impact would make it hit the brace.

I had a clunk the other day, checked back there and my OAP was hitting the panhard support brace. A little adjusting to make sure it stopped doing that and clunk was gone!


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Old 10-27-2015, 08:12 AM   #8
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Rear Strut Work

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Sometimes the worst news is what saves someones life. Don't want to be cruising around on worn out shocks and struts. Because it will start to wear out the other suspension components quicker.

So, it COULD be worse.

Wow that was dramatic. Worn shocks being replaced can save lives. Save tires maybe, save your tailbone maybe. Lives? On a 55k stock car? Bit of a stretch I believe.

OP, you don't have struts in the rear. You have shocks. And they are cheap, IF that's the problem. I would look into the OTA pipe as suggested. I would also look at the area on the frame where the bump stops would contact the car and see if it looks clean from them contacting the area. If so, you probably do need shocks. Look on eBay, you can get like new take off shocks super cheap. Shelby American in Las Vegas always has a pair of rear shocks listed for like 50 bucks shipped. New shocks like Koni shocks won't break the bank either.
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Old 10-27-2015, 08:20 AM   #9
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Wow that was dramatic. Worn shocks being replaced can save lives. Save tires maybe, save your tailbone maybe. Lives? On a 55k stock car? Bit of a stretch I believe.

OP, you don't have struts in the rear. You have shocks. And they are cheap, IF that's the problem. I would look into the OTA pipe as suggested. I would also look at the area on the frame where the bump stops would contact the car and see if it looks clean from them contacting the area. If so, you probably do need shocks. Look on eBay, you can get like new take off shocks super cheap. Shelby American in Las Vegas always has a pair of rear shocks listed for like 50 bucks shipped. New shocks like Koni shocks won't break the bank either.
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Old 10-27-2015, 08:26 AM   #10
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And replacing rear shocks does not mean you should have to do the front struts.
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Old 10-27-2015, 08:29 AM   #11
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And replacing rear shocks does not mean you should have to do the front struts.
Correct. But I would do it at that mileage anyways. But of course, I am crazy about maintenance.
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Old 10-27-2015, 08:34 AM   #12
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Correct. But I would do it at that mileage anyways. But of course, I am crazy about maintenance.
I probably would too.
But I added that comment based on OP's statements, "I am not trying to waste time or money on parts that will not fix the problem." & "I am of the mindset that if one goes bad it is time to invest all the way around, so compensation doesn't cause further problems down the road."
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Old 10-27-2015, 08:58 AM   #13
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Rear Strut Work

So one more question. I'm trying to save every penny I can at the moment. Could I get away with just doing the rear shocks and then replacing the front struts a couple of months later with no long term issues


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Old 10-27-2015, 09:00 AM   #14
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So one more question. I'm trying to save every penny I can at the moment. Could I get away with just doing the rear shocks and then replacing the front struts a couple of months later with no long term issues


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Yes
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Old 10-27-2015, 09:01 AM   #15
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So one more question. I'm trying to save every penny I can at the moment. Could I get away with just doing the rear shocks and then replacing the front struts a couple of months later with no long term issues


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Of course! I actually just did this with my 2011.
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Old 10-28-2015, 08:56 AM   #16
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Rear end clunk

Agree with all who have posted so far, that said, my 2011 vert with 85K began making similar noise, went away with rear sway bar replacement. I agree shocks should be replaced, but if you do that and the noise is still present, look into the sway bar as the culprit.
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Old 10-28-2015, 09:02 AM   #17
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I would do them both if I had the car on a lift. As you usually have to drop the rear sway bar to remove the bottom bolt on the shocks. 2 birds with 1 stone. Depending on your funds of course.
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Old 10-28-2015, 09:21 AM   #18
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I might just do that. Haven't seen any shocks I'm willing to spend money on. Either I never heard of the brand and the price makes me suspicious or they are out of my price range of what I am willing to spend. I'm not end to upgrading considering that my son may be the reason I won't be keeping it down the road. But who knows


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Old 10-28-2015, 09:35 AM   #19
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I might just do that. Haven't seen any shocks I'm willing to spend money on. Either I never heard of the brand and the price makes me suspicious or they are out of my price range of what I am willing to spend. I'm not end to upgrading considering that my son may be the reason I won't be keeping it down the road. But who knows


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Well if you won't have it for much longer, just enjoy it while you can. Leave the maintenance to the next buyer. Lol. Seems like that is the usual trend.
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Old 10-28-2015, 09:42 AM   #20
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2K upside down on the loan. It will be a lot a bit longer. The faster my 13 month old grows and can fit in the back is the biggest of concerns. Getting a beater is out of the question. Not for a 6er to sit.


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Old 10-28-2015, 09:45 AM   #21
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Well, if it is the rear shocks, they are fairly cheap when compared to other parts. >_>
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Old 10-28-2015, 10:01 AM   #22
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Head over to the boss forums, or other mustang forums and check for used gear. I got a set of OEM boss shocks / struts with 30k miles for $400 shipped. I know buying used is always sketchy, but the SVT GT500 guys and Boss guys are always upgrading. Its at least worth looking into.
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Old 10-28-2015, 10:13 AM   #23
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And if you have a little extra cash, a set of Boss springs is actually an upgrade and you get to keep your ride height.
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Old 10-28-2015, 12:28 PM   #24
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This is on my list too. I have a bit of extra clunk and rattle in back...probably worn out stock bushings out shocks. What would be a good replacement for the factory Perf Pack rear shocks? They're stiffer than the base model's.
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Old 10-28-2015, 12:46 PM   #25
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@Tyriqq

I'm not much for the trial and error approach to car repair. I realize of course there are many times when you have no choice. (Even the pros do it.)
I would ask if anyone knows if either the sway bar or shocks can be tested/examined closely to help determine if they are causing the noise.
I don't know the answer, just a thought for someone trying to minimize spending.
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Old 10-28-2015, 12:51 PM   #26
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This is in my list too. I have a bit of extra clunk and rattle in back...probably worn out stock bushings out shocks. What would be a good replacement for the factory Perf Pack rear shocks? They're stiffer than the base model's.
Rear shocks are the same as base. Only the front struts are different. They are from a Base 5.0.

So anything close to OEM grade would do if you just want an OEM replacement.
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Old 10-28-2015, 12:55 PM   #27
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@Tyriqq

I'm not much for the trial and error approach to car repair. I realize of course there are many times when you have no choice. (Even the pros do it.)
I would ask if anyone knows if either the sway bar or shocks can be tested/examined closely to help determine if they are causing the noise.
I don't know the answer, just a thought for someone trying to minimize spending.
You can just remove the rear sway bar entirely, it wont cause any adverse effects in street driving. Could at least help you start narrowing things down.
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Old 10-28-2015, 12:58 PM   #28
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You can just remove the rear sway bar entirely, it wont cause any adverse effects in street driving. Could at least help you start narrowing things down.
I was just starting to say that and checked for updates first.
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Old 10-28-2015, 01:00 PM   #29
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Rear shocks are the same as base. Only the front struts are different. They are from a Base 5.0.

So anything close to OEM grade would do if you just want an OEM replacement.
I didn't know that...thanks for the info. I'm guessing the springs are same as the base too?

Guess I'll keep my eyes peeled for some sales as we move into the holidays..so virtually anything by Koni should be better than what's on there now, huh?
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Old 10-28-2015, 01:12 PM   #30
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Rear shocks are the same as base. Only the front struts are different. They are from a Base 5.0.

So anything close to OEM grade would do if you just want an OEM replacement.
I have wondered about this myself.
I know the PP has larger diameter front and rear stabilizer bars.
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Old 10-28-2015, 01:13 PM   #31
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I didn't know that...thanks for the info. I'm guessing the springs are same as the base too?

Guess I'll keep my eyes peeled for some sales as we move into the holidays..so virtually anything by Koni should be better than what's on there now, huh?
I just picked up the entire front strut assembly (struts, springs, strut mounts) and rear springs off a 2014 5.0 base for $200 on CL. they were almost new also. I even saw the guy's 5.0. Custom ordered 2014 Gotta Have it Green GT/CS. *drool*

and he had like $20k in it. He gave me a tour of it. LOL

I got those for my 2011 as it had the V6 Performance Package. And he threw the rear springs in for free so I just took them. At 105k miles, I will just slap them on just to say they are new. haha
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Old 10-28-2015, 01:47 PM   #32
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If Valerie will let me sell them, i've got some like ... 10k mile stock v6 suspension sitting in storage, shocks / struts / springs.
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