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Old 11-02-2015, 06:07 AM   #1
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Upper control arm

So I finally stopped being cheap and pulled the trigger to get the steeda adjustable upper control arm, now I just have to find a shop that can install it for me since it looks complicated and don't have the right tools for the job, and I really don't have any idea how to set up the pinion angle. So guys what is the best pinion angle to set it up too? I'm lowered 1.5 inches all around and maybe even lower with the konis and I have the 1 pc driveshaft. Just a quick little info is appreciated thanks..

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Old 11-02-2015, 07:38 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shunc01 View Post
So I finally stopped being cheap and pulled the trigger to get the steeda adjustable upper control arm, now I just have to find a shop that can install it for me since it looks complicated and don't have the right tools for the job, and I really don't have any idea how to set up the pinion angle. So guys what is the best pinion angle to set it up too? I'm lowered 1.5 inches all around and maybe even lower with the konis and I have the 1 pc driveshaft. Just a quick little info is appreciated thanks..

MPT tune, Axle exchange Aluminum driveshaft, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter, roush louvers, and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
When installing, it's best to set the length exactly as stock. Then angle finders need to be placed on the differential and transmission. Once the angles are known, correction can be made. The driveshaft typically needs to be as straight as possible, but also depends on what the primary use of the car is and how you drive it. A reputable shop will know what to do after you tell them how you use your car.

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Old 11-02-2015, 08:18 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by ponie1992 View Post
When installing, it's best to set the length exactly as stock. Then angle finders need to be placed on the differential and transmission. Once the angles are known, correction can be made. The driveshaft typically needs to be as straight as possible, but also depends on what the primary use of the car is and how you drive it. A reputable shop will know what to do after you tell them how you use your car.

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Thanks Jeremy appreciate it, I don't track the car but will be once everything is sorted out.. I will tell my mechanic about it.. I just bought upper control arm without the mount can I just use the stock mount for it?

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Old 11-02-2015, 08:39 AM   #4
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No, an aftermarket control arm in the stock mount will clunk. I believe thats a fairly universal consensus by now, but i personally have never done it.
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Old 11-02-2015, 08:58 AM   #5
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The install portion is fairly easy if you have a good jack and jack stands. Or a lift

I believe one of the bolts to it or maybe all of them, are under the rear seat area iirc.
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Old 11-02-2015, 09:04 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by shunc01 View Post
So I finally stopped being cheap and pulled the trigger to get the steeda adjustable upper control arm, now I just have to find a shop that can install it for me since it looks complicated and don't have the right tools for the job, and I really don't have any idea how to set up the pinion angle. So guys what is the best pinion angle to set it up too? I'm lowered 1.5 inches all around and maybe even lower with the konis and I have the 1 pc driveshaft. Just a quick little info is appreciated thanks..

MPT tune, Axle exchange Aluminum driveshaft, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter, roush louvers, and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
Are you experiencing wheel hop with current setup?
As I recall your pinion angle was checked and found to be good when you had your driveshaft done. Also, that what you have so far is working pretty well with no vibrations, etc.
I would suggest they check what the pinion angle is before AND after the UCA install.
I believe it is typically recommended to replace the stock UCA bracket with the much stronger aftermarket bracket.
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Old 11-02-2015, 09:09 AM   #7
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I heard this one was decent, mount and arm - Whiteline Mustang Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arm KTA141A (05-14 All) - Free Shipping
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Old 11-02-2015, 09:34 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
No, an aftermarket control arm in the stock mount will clunk. I believe thats a fairly universal consensus by now, but i personally have never done it.
It's mixed reviews iv seen online but I will try it out using the stock mount. I got the steeda UCA but could not find the mount for it.. Volt with your knowledge about this stuff what do you prefer for a perfect pinion angle? I know as stated above it depends on how I use my car but for general use and occasion aggressive driving what will be the magic no? Thanks man.

MPT tune, Axle exchange Aluminum driveshaft, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter, roush louvers, and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
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Old 11-02-2015, 09:42 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Kevin.Cook View Post
The install portion is fairly easy if you have a good jack and jack stands. Or a lift

I believe one of the bolts to it or maybe all of them, are under the rear seat area iirc.
Thanks man I have a buddy of mine who has a lift and kind enough to let me use it..

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Old 11-02-2015, 09:46 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Kevin.Cook View Post
The type of adjustment on this one is quite different. I think I like the typical nut adjustment method. Not sure how much adjust it allows with that "eccentric crush tube" design.
Plus OP already has the Steeda UCA.
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Old 11-02-2015, 09:47 AM   #11
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Are you experiencing wheel hop with current setup?
As I recall your pinion angle was checked and found to be good when you had your driveshaft done. Also, that what you have so far is working pretty well with no vibrations, etc.
I would suggest they check what the pinion angle is before AND after the UCA install.
I believe it is typically recommended to replace the stock UCA bracket with the much stronger aftermarket bracket.
You hit it in the head as so I thought but when I called the shop about what degree they set up the pinion angle they couldn't give me an answer but instead they told me that it was for the wheel alignment.. So now I had feeling they never checked it.

I will check the pinion before and after the install.. I got the steeda upper control arm. What bracket are you talking about?

I had the feeling why my Pinion was leaking twice because of the pinion angle they never check it and with the 1 pc driveshaft it didn't help.

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Old 11-02-2015, 10:00 AM   #12
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I have no problem with the car right now, no wheel hop as I can tell, but with the 1 pc driveshaft, my car lowered, and considering that I had two pinion seal leaks and have no knowledge if my car is in correct pinion angle. I'm just being pro active here and getting the necessary part to correct this since I NEED it.. So It won't happened again with the pinion seal drama. Right now I just have a vent tube leaking so I brought to Ford and see if they will honor it other than that it's all good..

Pls let me know if I'm doing this all wrong or not or it doesn't make sense at all I'm open with suggestion. Thanks guys.

MPT tune, Axle exchange Aluminum driveshaft, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter, roush louvers, and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
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Old 11-02-2015, 10:52 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by shunc01 View Post
It's mixed reviews iv seen online but I will try it out using the stock mount. I got the steeda UCA but could not find the mount for it.. Volt with your knowledge about this stuff what do you prefer for a perfect pinion angle? I know as stated above it depends on how I use my car but for general use and occasion aggressive driving what will be the magic no? Thanks man.

MPT tune, Axle exchange Aluminum driveshaft, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter, roush louvers, and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
When i spoke with Kelly at BMR, his description was that it depends on what you will be doing most with the car. For example, the best pinion angle is obviously 0*, because you're not putting any preload on the pinion. However, due to weight transfer when you floor it, having a 0* angle 100% of the time is virtually impossible. You also have to take into account what is happening at different points, for example, the stress on the pinion is much higher at WOT than when cruising.

For this reason, he suggested having the pinion set to 0* when WOT, which i believe resulted in a (~)-2* pinion angle for every day driving.
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Old 11-02-2015, 10:59 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by shunc01 View Post
I have no problem with the car right now, no wheel hop as I can tell, but with the 1 pc driveshaft, my car lowered, and considering that I had two pinion seal leaks and have no knowledge if my car is in correct pinion angle. I'm just being pro active here and getting the necessary part to correct this since I NEED it.. So It won't happened again with the pinion seal drama. Right now I just have a vent tube leaking so I brought to Ford and see if they will honor it other than that it's all good..

Pls let me know if I'm doing this all wrong or not or it doesn't make sense at all I'm open with suggestion. Thanks guys.

MPT tune, Axle exchange Aluminum driveshaft, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter, roush louvers, and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
When i spoke with Kelly at BMR, his description was that it depends on what you will be doing most with the car. For example, the best pinion angle is obviously 0*, because you're not putting any preload on the pinion. However, due to weight transfer when you floor it, having a 0* angle 100% of the time is virtually impossible. You also have to take into account what is happening at different points, for example, the stress on the pinion is much higher at WOT than when cruising.

For this reason, he suggested having the pinion set to 0* when WOT, which i believe resulted in a (~)-2* pinion angle for every day driving.
That's pretty much agrees with what I found and since I already wrote it up, I'm posting it anyway. LOL

Yeah, I didn't want to get into it but I did feel a little uncomfortable when they original said no adjustment was necessary. I'm also thinking you made a good decision to do what you're doing.
Volt, of course, is the "go to" person but here is what I've found.
The acceptable pinion angle range is between -3.0 and -1.5. For drag racing, the higher angle is desired. But for daily driving. An angle of -1.5 to -2.0 may be more desirable. I believe -2 degrees is the stock setting.
(The negative sign indicates that the pinion should be pointing down relative to the rear driveshaft.)

It is said that with a DSS drive shaft with cv joint, it is only important to get the shaft housing end distance to the cv joint between 3 and 1/4 inches and 3 and 3/4 inches no optimal angle is needed! Not sure what this is all about. I know you don't have a DSS shaft but I like to put it out there in case someone can further clarify. (I'm thinking now, as far as the pinion angle, this only applies if all that is being done is the install of the DS with stock pinion angle.)
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Old 11-02-2015, 11:25 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
When i spoke with Kelly at BMR, his description was that it depends on what you will be doing most with the car. For example, the best pinion angle is obviously 0*, because you're not putting any preload on the pinion. However, due to weight transfer when you floor it, having a 0* angle 100% of the time is virtually impossible. You also have to take into account what is happening at different points, for example, the stress on the pinion is much higher at WOT than when cruising.

For this reason, he suggested having the pinion set to 0* when WOT, which i believe resulted in a (~)-2* pinion angle for every day driving.
This is what I wanted to know thank you so much, I will set mine down to - 2 pinion angle since I will do occasional wot in the freeway or maybe in the track someday. Volt I appreciate your input. This is probably why my pinion seal keeps leaking since I'm putting to much stress in the pinion.

MPT tune, Axle exchange Aluminum driveshaft, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter, roush louvers, and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
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Old 11-02-2015, 11:32 AM   #16
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This is what I wanted to know thank you so much, I will set mine down to - 2 pinion angle since I will do occasional wot in the freeway or maybe in the track someday. Volt I appreciate your input. This is probably why my pinion seal keeps leaking since I'm putting to much stress in the pinion.

MPT tune, Axle exchange Aluminum driveshaft, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter, roush louvers, and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
Be sure to let us know what the "BEFORE" pinion angle was.
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Old 11-02-2015, 11:36 AM   #17
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That's pretty much agrees with what I found and since I already wrote it up, I'm posting it anyway. LOL

Yeah, I didn't want to get into it but I did feel a little uncomfortable when they original said no adjustment was necessary. I'm also thinking you made a good decision to do what you're doing.
Volt, of course, is the "go to" person but here is what I've found.
The acceptable pinion angle range is between -3.0 and -1.5. For drag racing, the higher angle is desired. But for daily driving. An angle of -1.5 to -2.0 may be more desirable. I believe -2 degrees is the stock setting.
(The negative sign indicates that the pinion should be pointing down relative to the rear driveshaft.)

It is said that with a DSS drive shaft with cv joint, it is only important to get the shaft housing end distance to the cv joint between 3 and 1/4 inches and 3 and 3/4 inches no optimal angle is needed! Not sure what this is all about. I know you don't have a DSS shaft but I like to put it out there in case someone can further clarify. (I'm thinking now, as far as the pinion angle, this only applies if all that is being done is the install of the DS with stock pinion angle.)
I was gonna say that I have the axle exchange which I don't think has a cv joint.. So I don't know if the pinion angle would vary.. Will see as more info is shared.. Keep it coming guys deeply appreciated.

MPT tune, Axle exchange Aluminum driveshaft, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter, roush louvers, and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
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Old 11-02-2015, 11:45 AM   #18
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Be sure to let us know what the "BEFORE" pinion angle was.
Yes sir I will... I will be tackling this with my friend this Saturday..

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Old 11-02-2015, 07:22 PM   #19
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What is the recommended torque for all the bolts?

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Old 11-02-2015, 09:23 PM   #20
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What is the recommended torque for all the bolts?

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I'm not sure which ones you need.

240 for the bolt under the seat
85 for the other two uca mount bolts.
200 for the uca to uca mount bolt.
129 for the uca to differential bolt.


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Old 11-03-2015, 12:37 AM   #21
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I had my local ford dealership install my DS and they told me it was set at 3* which is within spec so idk what's going on now lol
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Old 11-03-2015, 05:44 AM   #22
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I'm not sure which ones you need.

240 for the bolt under the seat
85 for the other two uca mount bolts.
200 for the uca to uca mount bolt.
129 for the uca to differential bolt.


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This is all I need... Thank you sir..

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Old 11-03-2015, 06:14 AM   #23
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I had my local ford dealership install my DS and they told me it was set at 3* which is within spec so idk what's going on now lol
Did you have the aftermarket uca? And are you lowered?

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Borla stypes cat back exhaust, tint kit all lights, 5.0 race red shift knob, MMD V SERIES SPOILER... and more to come...
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Old 11-03-2015, 07:25 AM   #24
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Got a call from Ford and they will be replacing the axle vent tube with the updated version and replaced new gear oil and additive.. Finally something going my way.

MPT tune, Axle exchange Aluminum driveshaft, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter, roush louvers, and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
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2016 GT RACE RED MANUAL aka " RAGING BULL"
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Borla stypes cat back exhaust, tint kit all lights, 5.0 race red shift knob, MMD V SERIES SPOILER... and more to come...
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Old 11-03-2015, 10:42 AM   #25
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Lucky you, they wouldn't replace my axle vent because I have aftermarket OTA pipes and they said it might have caused the leak because of them hitting the axle.

I laughed at them and told them to get the car off the lift.


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Old 11-03-2015, 10:54 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by TCopp View Post
Lucky you, they wouldn't replace my axle vent because I have aftermarket OTA pipes and they said it might have caused the leak because of them hitting the axle.

I laughed at them and told them to get the car off the lift.


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That sounds like my dealers head of service guy. When I was feeling them out on aftermarket exhaust, etc. he said, "Wellll if the item causes the problem it won't be covered. For example, if the muffler got clogged up and screwed up the engine."
Goodby!
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Old 11-03-2015, 05:33 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by shunc01 View Post
Got a call from Ford and they will be replacing the axle vent tube with the updated version and replaced new gear oil and additive.. Finally something going my way.

MPT tune, Axle exchange Aluminum driveshaft, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter, roush louvers, and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
Great news! Now all you have to do is get that axle cleaned up and painted!
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Old 11-03-2015, 05:58 PM   #28
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Great news! Now all you have to do is get that axle cleaned up and painted!
Lol.. Yeah that is probably what I will do.. No more wet spot lol..

MPT tune, Axle exchange Aluminum driveshaft, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter, roush louvers, and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
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2016 GT RACE RED MANUAL aka " RAGING BULL"
Mods:
Borla stypes cat back exhaust, tint kit all lights, 5.0 race red shift knob, MMD V SERIES SPOILER... and more to come...
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Old 11-04-2015, 12:43 AM   #29
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Did you have the aftermarket uca? And are you lowered?

MPT tune, Axle exchange Aluminum driveshaft, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter, roush louvers, and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
Yes I have the whiteline uca but that was installed by my mechanic not the dealer and he set it to same length as the stock one he took off. Lowered in back about 1 1/4" with nonstock steeda ultra lites
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Old 11-04-2015, 05:04 AM   #30
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Yes I have the whiteline uca but that was installed by my mechanic not the dealer and he set it to same length as the stock one he took off. Lowered in back about 1 1/4" with nonstock steeda ultra lites
Did you have more nvh? With this uca after the install? What angle did you use? I appreciate it man.

MPT tune, Axle exchange Aluminum driveshaft, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter, roush louvers, and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
__________________
2016 GT RACE RED MANUAL aka " RAGING BULL"
Mods:
Borla stypes cat back exhaust, tint kit all lights, 5.0 race red shift knob, MMD V SERIES SPOILER... and more to come...
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Old 11-04-2015, 05:57 AM   #31
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Lucky you, they wouldn't replace my axle vent because I have aftermarket OTA pipes and they said it might have caused the leak because of them hitting the axle.

I laughed at them and told them to get the car off the lift.


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ya handled it well.
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Old 11-04-2015, 06:38 AM   #32
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So I contacted that person who I bought the UCA, he warned me that it will have some NVH, now I don't know how bad it is? I certainly don't want any vibration or clunking while driving. Should I go with it? How bout you guys who has the steeda uca what can you say about this NVH? is it tolerable enough..

MPT tune, Axle exchange Aluminum driveshaft, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter, roush louvers, and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
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2016 GT RACE RED MANUAL aka " RAGING BULL"
Mods:
Borla stypes cat back exhaust, tint kit all lights, 5.0 race red shift knob, MMD V SERIES SPOILER... and more to come...
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Old 11-04-2015, 10:46 AM   #33
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Did you have more nvh? With this uca after the install? What angle did you use? I appreciate it man.

MPT tune, Axle exchange Aluminum driveshaft, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter, roush louvers, and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
I don't notice any MORE nvh. He put on all the grease that it came with. It's a stout piece. With all my whiteline stuff I can smoke the wheels and yawn about it cuz the rear end stays so planted and like nothing's happening lol. With my aluminum DS I hear a little more noise from the back but there's a lot moving around back there and I only hear things when going slow and pulling into my driveway where everything is flexing. It's really not bad.
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Old 11-04-2015, 07:28 PM   #34
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I don't notice any MORE nvh. He put on all the grease that it came with. It's a stout piece. With all my whiteline stuff I can smoke the wheels and yawn about it cuz the rear end stays so planted and like nothing's happening lol. With my aluminum DS I hear a little more noise from the back but there's a lot moving around back there and I only hear things when going slow and pulling into my driveway where everything is flexing. It's really not bad.
This is so cool man thanks I'm glad you're happy with your set up so hopefully mine will be the same.

MPT tune, Axle exchange Aluminum driveshaft, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter, roush louvers, and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
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2016 GT RACE RED MANUAL aka " RAGING BULL"
Mods:
Borla stypes cat back exhaust, tint kit all lights, 5.0 race red shift knob, MMD V SERIES SPOILER... and more to come...
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Old 11-04-2015, 07:32 PM   #35
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So I got my car back from the dealer and this is what I got with the updated version. The dealer was not gonna pursue the install since my car is lowered and the new vent tube is too tall that is touching the over axle pipe. They told me to keep an eye on it. My question am I going to be okay? Do you think it will melt since it's touching the Ota. This is how it looks like. This is not my pix just for comparison.

MPT tune, Axle exchange Aluminum driveshaft, 3:73 gears, borla stype, frrp x pipe, Mac ceramic shorty headers, airaid cai, Jlt separator, koni orange shocks and struts, SR Springs, gt500 mounts, J&M Panhard bar, Bmr LCA, 2010 gt500 wheels, roush chin splitter, roush louvers, and RTR stripes... 😎 🚘
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2016 GT RACE RED MANUAL aka " RAGING BULL"
Mods:
Borla stypes cat back exhaust, tint kit all lights, 5.0 race red shift knob, MMD V SERIES SPOILER... and more to come...
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