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Old 01-07-2016, 09:05 AM   #36
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I HIGHLY recommend taking it to a tranny specialist when you do, and do NOT get a pressure flush. Only use a place that hooks the lines up and uses your cars natural flow system to replace the fluid. Those cheap/quick pressure flushes do more damage then good.

You can also save some money by bringing in your own filter/gasket kit when you do it.
I thought they all use a pressure flush?

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Old 01-07-2016, 12:09 PM   #37
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I thought they all use a pressure flush?

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Here's a good article on the subject.
What is a Transmission Flush? | Cost & Process
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Old 01-07-2016, 03:34 PM   #38
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Nope. I did a lot of research when I bought a high mileage caddy years ago. A cheap pressure flush can kill a tranny that hasnt had regular fluid changes. Pushes all the metal debris up in the tranny and can break loose the depsoits.
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Old 01-07-2016, 03:48 PM   #39
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Interesting story...


I worked for a short while as a service writer for one of the larger local car dealerships and Mazda was one of their companies they sold. Mazda claims their tranny fluid is lifetime. That is a joke. Some poor older woman came in with her Mazda that had 100k miles and told me it was having hard shifts. My manager wanted to do a pressure flush and I got into it with him cuz I knew it would ruin her tranny. I had the tech drop the pan and her fluid was black and the magnet in her pan looked like a chia-pet with all the metal shards. Their was copper sludge in the bottom as well. I told her she would need a new tranny eventually but we bought her some time by just doing a pan drop, replacing the filter and only the 5 qts that's in the pan.


My point is, if you go by the book on certain things you can expect to ruin your car after the warranty is expired and the company couldn't care less what happens to your ride.


The two most expensive parts of your vehicle is the engine and transmission. Keep the filters and fluids clean and they will run smooth for a very long time. Go cheap and you will pay dearly in the long run.
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Old 01-08-2016, 12:07 AM   #40
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Does the battery need to be disconnected when taking fuse 47 out?


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Old 01-08-2016, 12:52 AM   #41
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Does the battery need to be disconnected when taking fuse 47 out?


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No. But make sure the car is off and keys are out. I just pop the hood and pull 47, go have a smoke and a good movement and plug her back in. You'll be right as rain.
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Old 01-08-2016, 09:12 PM   #42
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That 0-60 time is actually normal. The dirty secret that they don't tell you about the 0-60 times is that they rev the car until it hits the limiter and then drop the thing into second. They launch full throttle in 2nd gear to get the advertized times.

You can imagine how long the transmissions last doing that. ( Top Gear blew out a Corvette's transmission after about 30-40 such launches )
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Old 01-09-2016, 12:24 PM   #43
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I added after axel pipes with reduced back pressure and more noise (Wonderful), AIRAID cold air intake and retuned it with BAMA tune for 18" tires and premium gasoline (92 octane instead of 87) and picked up 20HP in my '15 Pony Car V6; had it build by Ford to my specs. It really increased the getup and go. It has an automatic tranny (got tired of shift in previous car). The BAMA tune changes the shifting points as well as the engine timing (advanced for what it was due to gasoline octane upgrade). My pony gets out a really goes now compared to before and I am still getting 28-31 MPG on the highway.
Really, your hood and side scoops do nothing but make it pretty and actually cause drag at every speed reducing acceleration, fuel efficiency and good aerodynamics.
I understand pretty and have chromed out the interior and under the hood, but pretty doesn't make it go. I also installed a tower bridge across struts to give it better stability when putting it through the paces.
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Old 01-09-2016, 03:17 PM   #44
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Ford can tell how many times it's been reflashed...they may or may not care but they can find out if it's been tuned.



if you pull the battery you'll have to reset radio/clock for what it's worth.
Is this also true if you pull fuse 47. Does the process of depressing the accelerator pedal work just as well?
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Old 01-11-2016, 09:05 AM   #45
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the fuse has nothing to do with clock/radio/reflashes as far as I know. I'm not sure what the accel pedal trick is.
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Old 01-11-2016, 03:53 PM   #46
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Ok guys the fuse thing definetly made a huge diffrence in the car especially I'm sport mode where the rpm is higher. I got my car to do 0 to 60 in 6.3 and that was with a bad shifting on a country road with some swerving. I think the car can now do at least 6 seconds flat. Though it helped that weather was a bit cooler. Overall though the car hangs around at higher rpm and when you just tap the pedal it knocks you back in the seat. Who knew a little fuse could make such a diffrence in the car. Can't wait to try it with a new air filter and 3.73s in the future.
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Old 01-11-2016, 04:03 PM   #47
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Ok guys the fuse thing definetly made a huge diffrence in the car especially I'm sport mode where the rpm is higher. I got my car to do 0 to 60 in 6.3 and that was with a bad shifting on a country road with some swerving. I think the car can now do at least 6 seconds flat. Though it helped that weather was a bit cooler. Overall though the car hangs around at higher rpm and when you just tap the pedal it knocks you back in the seat. Who knew a little fuse could make such a diffrence in the car. Can't wait to try it with a new air filter and 3.73s in the future.
I don't remember...what's the "sport mode" in a 2014 manual? Is it like another track button?
In my auto it's just another shift position, with buttons to manual shift up and down the gears.
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Old 01-11-2016, 04:48 PM   #48
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Mine is automatic as well with the shift buttons. That's how I was shifting it
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Old 01-11-2016, 08:55 PM   #49
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Mine is automatic as well with the shift buttons. That's how I was shifting it
Oh okay...that did cross my mind. I rarely use the buttons except sometimes to slow down.
I was left with the impression that the auto part of the sport mode shifted faster then when manually shifting in sport mode.
With my car at 1 yr 9 mos old I should try that fuse pull, myself. But first I have to find some good place to make some test runs.
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:07 AM   #50
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That's the good thing about where I live my road is curvy with some long stretches of straight parts so I can test acceleration as well as handling.
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Old 01-14-2016, 03:04 PM   #51
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I don't remember...what's the "sport mode" in a 2014 manual? Is it like another track button?
In my auto it's just another shift position, with buttons to manual shift up and down the gears.
In my manual all it does is tighten up the steering feel, that's it for what I know of. It helps a little but nothing drastic.
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Old 01-15-2016, 12:00 PM   #52
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Yeah it helps a lot more in automatics because it increases the rpm and as you know once our car is in the 3000 rpms and above that's when it really starts making power so in my automatic in sport modes with the fuse taken out and put it again it'll stay at like 3500 rpm which really helps the car accelerate faster. In regular drive the rpms stay much lower at around 1500. So in my car at least sport mode really helps
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Old 01-15-2016, 12:29 PM   #53
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Well I don't know about the steering becoming "tighter" in the sports mode. Shift points are different for sure increasing rpm's to gain power and torque but have limits to disallow you from blowing your engine or tranny.
On my '14 I can adjust the steering through the on-board computer from easy, medium to stiff. I prefer the mid range. When I throw the Auto to Sport it does not change my steering feel. Maybe yours is unique.
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Old 01-15-2016, 07:33 PM   #54
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Well I don't know about the steering becoming "tighter" in the sports mode.
I think there may be some confusion between sport/manual mode in the autos and the "Sport" setting for steering feel that does reduce the amount of power assist and make the steering stiffer.
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Old 01-18-2016, 06:28 PM   #55
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I think there may be some confusion between sport/manual mode in the autos and the "Sport" setting for steering feel that does reduce the amount of power assist and make the steering stiffer.
I must not have what you guys have with the automatics then. That is the only "sport" setting my car has since I obviously pick my own shift points with the manual. My car has comfort, standard, and sport, all with the changes in power steering like you've said.

So what you're saying is the autos have a setting for steering feel and a setting for shift points that are both separate? That's my bad then.
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Old 01-18-2016, 08:03 PM   #56
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Sport mode changes the traction control and steering. It is available on both manuals and autos. At a full stop, hold the brake and double tap the traction control button. This turns on AdvanceTrack sport mode with stiffer steering.

On autos there is select shift mode (move the shift lever to 'S'). This changes the shift schedule, allows you to manually shift with the button and down-shifts when you brake.

Two very different features.

A BAMA 2.0 tune will change the shift schedule for an auto in drive ('D'), as will good tunes from other vendors such as VMP (read other threads here). These tunes have a noticeable difference with an auto.
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Old 01-18-2016, 10:59 PM   #57
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You can also keep the shift points in the autos' "D" from being altered by the fuse 47 / adaptive shift delete mod.
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Old 01-18-2016, 11:26 PM   #58
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Sure, if you like the stock shift behavior. If you don't, tune it.
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Old 01-19-2016, 05:31 PM   #59
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Now that we're talking about advance Trac what is the diffrence between it and traction control because if you just press the traction control off on mine it says traction control off while if you hold brake and traction control it disables advancetrac what is the diffrence between the two and which mode would help decrease 0 to 60 times.
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:41 PM   #60
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Now that we're talking about advance Trac what is the diffrence between it and traction control because if you just press the traction control off on mine it says traction control off while if you hold brake and traction control it disables advancetrac what is the diffrence between the two and which mode would help decrease 0 to 60 times.
Traditionally(not sure about Fords), traction control is applying brakes to one of the driving wheels that's free spinning, such as when trying to accelerate on snow or ice. It's somewhat similar to posi-traction.
While Ford's term, "AdvanceTrac" is their ESC(electronic stability control), which controls all 4 wheels and when it detects loss of steering control, it automatically applies specific brakes to help "steer" the vehicle where the driver intends to go. There's more to it but that's the basics.

Oh ya...Disable both to help decrease you 0-60 time.
Button pressed
and hold more
than 5 seconds;
brakes applied;
no throttle
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