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Old 01-06-2016, 04:02 PM   #1
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2014 v6 sluggish/slow

Hey guys just wandering if it's normal that my car is this slow. I got 2.73 gears and am fully stock except for body upgrades such as hood scoop and side scoops. When I use the track apps to check my 0 to 60 I am getting 6.8 second times and 7 second times at best. I have done the test with traction control on off and using manual mode as well as sport mode and regular drive with no diffrence in times. Also I have reset the ecu. I am wondering why the car is so slow when I first purchased it I got 5.8 second times with little effort. The car has 20000 miles now and I am in florida at low altitude. Car has michelin energy savers with 17 inch aluminum rims. I'm wondering what you guys think is it normal to get such slow times or is it something bigger. Thanks if you guys need any more info let me know
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Old 01-06-2016, 04:06 PM   #2
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I would start by putting new plugs and wires on the car. Clean the air filter and do an oil change if it has not had one lately. These 3.7 tend to burn up plugs fairly quickly. Not sure why but a lot of people have had similar issues with them between 15/20k miles.
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Old 01-06-2016, 04:12 PM   #3
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Hmm I never thought plugs would already be bad on the car at only 20000 miles but I guess I haven't checked them. Air filter was my thought but if I'm not mistaken they can go 30000 miles but it is my main suspect for now. Oils definetly out of the question as I always change it every 6 months because of my warranty and since I don't drive often the oil comes out looking brand new. I'll definetly see if the spark plugs or air filter look to bad tommorow though.
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Old 01-06-2016, 04:16 PM   #4
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Are your tires still in good shape as well? I've got 26,000 miles on my Pirelli's and know I can't hook up like I used to. But this is way off the mark of what your car should be doing. Especially with only 20,000 miles, something is definitely not right.
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Old 01-06-2016, 04:25 PM   #5
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Yeah they definetly aren't new but I get them rotated so they are in good shape and have plenty of thread
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Old 01-06-2016, 05:01 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubyredv6 View Post
Yeah they definetly aren't new but I get them rotated so they are in good shape and have plenty of thread
And even if they were worn, I really wouldn't expect it to matter much. Maybe your MAF sensor or something along those lines has gone bad? Does the car still run smoothly, nothing noticeable?
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Old 01-06-2016, 05:11 PM   #7
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I was considering the maf as I'm sure it's probably something electronic causing the problem. I haven't check it out though nor do I have any idea how to clean it but I'm going to try to clean it tommorow. The car runs fine or at least I believe it does as I haven't driven any other cars like it. Only thing is when you floor it you will smell unburned gas but I'm almost sure that's normal. Also sometimes in idle when you rev the car high it will go under 750 and the car will almost shut down and quickly pick back up to its normal idle but I've read that's a typical problem.
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Old 01-06-2016, 05:16 PM   #8
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I'll take a look at everything you guys have mentioned and go through the car tommorow so if you guys have any other ideas let me know. I was also thinking maybe it's something with the injectors do you guys think I should try using a little injector cleaner.
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Old 01-06-2016, 05:17 PM   #9
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Also I used to get 33 mpg on highway now it's more like 28.6
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Old 01-06-2016, 05:30 PM   #10
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Could be a bad tank of gas too. Try running it to empty and tuning some 93 octane through it to clean it out. Even with non sports cars I run two tanks a month of 93 through them just to keep the motor clean. I've seen issues with the tb going bad on these cars but usually that's throws you into limp mode. I have not seen the tb issues cause this so I would not suspect that. As for the maf sensor. Just clean it properly if you really feel that's the culprit but I do not think that will fix your issue. I'm betting on mixture of air filter and plugs.
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Old 01-06-2016, 05:36 PM   #11
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Well for sure let us know how it goes tomorrow. I'm definitely curious as to what you will find, good luck!


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Old 01-06-2016, 06:53 PM   #12
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Time for an adaptive shift reset? Fuse 42 pull/replace, IIRC.
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Old 01-06-2016, 06:54 PM   #13
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Not gas I already tried doing what you said with 93 with no improvement at all. I'll definetly go through the car tommorow and when I use it next Monday or even if it feels diffrent at start up but i will let you guys know
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Old 01-06-2016, 06:57 PM   #14
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Only sure way to know is take it to a track and get some solid times... Don't rely on ford apps


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Old 01-06-2016, 07:17 PM   #15
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I will try doing the reset one more time by pulling the fuse before doing anything is it the same if I just take the negative off the battery and let it drain or is the fuse method better.
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Old 01-06-2016, 07:21 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by rubyredv6 View Post
I will try doing the reset one more time by pulling the fuse before doing anything is it the same if I just take the negative off the battery and let it drain or is the fuse method better.
Either is OK.
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Old 01-06-2016, 07:22 PM   #17
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You shouldn't go 30K without changing your air filter. At the very least, yank it once a year and vacuum it out good.


I have a 14 V6 and I doubt it's your plugs or MAF. 20K miles is way too soon for those to give out on any car. I had a similar issue as you did as I was pulling 6.4 0-60 runs and I had 10K miles on my stang.


Try pulling fuse 47 and leave it out for 15 mins, that will reset the horrid adaptive learning without having to reset your entire ride. That will make a big difference in shift performance (for a couple weeks).


BUT what I ultimately did was get a SCT tuner from Amazon and loaded it on my Stang and she was pulling 5.7 0-60s with no other mods that would affect performance. I loaded the preset 91 octane tune and it stiffened up the shifts big time and eliminated the annoying "thinking" hesitation when going WOT.


Now people on here will swear by paying an extra $70+ for a "custom" tune, but IMHO I think it's a waste of money unless you have a lot of performance mods. I couldn't be happier with just the normal 91 SCT tune... though you will still have to pull fuse 47 once every 1,000 miles if you want it to respond like a beast. There's no getting around that adaptive learning BS.


In summary, your car is too new to be digging around trying to fix things that aren't broken. Do yourself a favor and get the SCT, you won't regret it. If it makes the difference that it did on my ride, you will be smiling ear to ear.
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Old 01-06-2016, 07:27 PM   #18
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Not the same. Not the same at all. Do the fuse reset. I didn't even think of that because I have a manual trans
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Old 01-06-2016, 07:27 PM   #19
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Factory service interval for engine air filter is 30k miles...for what that's worth.
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Old 01-06-2016, 07:31 PM   #20
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Factory service interval for engine air filter is 30k miles...for what that's worth.
Yeah and look up what the tranny fluid is. If you want your Stang to run like new dont go by the book. Keep your filters clean and change your tranny fluid every 50k. It's a minor investment that will go a long way.
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Old 01-06-2016, 07:31 PM   #21
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This is why this forum is awesome. Hawkstang coming in with the save, that makes a lot of sense, I've got a manual and didn't even know that could be an issue for an automatic.
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Old 01-06-2016, 07:36 PM   #22
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Yeah and look up what the tranny fluid is. If you want your Stang to run like new dont go by the book. Keep your filters clean and change your tranny fluid every 50k. It's a minor investment that will go a long way.
Agreed that the service interval isn't worth that much. Tranny fluid 150k interval is silly. My 6R80 fell apart at 57k.
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Old 01-06-2016, 07:42 PM   #23
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The best way to maintain and automatic transmission is to change fluid and filter at 2000 miles from factory. And every 40000 after that. Yes you read that rite. 2000 miles.

The reason you do this is because the trans is brand new. You have metal gears wearing into one another. The clutches wear into one another etc etc.
this all leaves debris in the trans oil.
At 2000 miles the trans is well enough broke in. So you replace filter and oil and now you have a freshly broken in trans with clean oil and brand new filter.

Hopefully that makes sense to all of you. This information was passed onto me a long time ago from a ford technician whose a long time family friend.
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Old 01-06-2016, 07:43 PM   #24
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Agreed that the service interval isn't worth that much. Tranny fluid 150k interval is silly. My 6R80 fell apart at 57k.
Your auto fell apart at 57k? Why?

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Old 01-06-2016, 07:45 PM   #25
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Ok I will do the reset with the fuse you guys say it's fuse 42. Also should i pull the fuse with the car on or off. Hawkstang I would get the sct but it's too soon for me at the time as I have warranty and don't want to ruin it. I got an extended warranty until 2020 or 75000 miles so I want to keep the car as stock as possible at least until 40000 miles. Also I was going to wait 30000 miles to change the air filter but you guys are right it's probably best to change all the parts before they give trouble. Thanks for the help guys and I'll let you know if pulling the fuse does anything
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Old 01-06-2016, 07:57 PM   #26
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Your auto Felly apart at 57k? Why?

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Question of the year. There's a thread about the whole saga somewhere on ME, but basically last winter it was discovered that the tailshaft was loose in the housing with small ATF leak. After several months and several trips to a top-rated tranny shop in the area, most of the moving parts in the tailhousing needed to be replaced, probably after one of the bearings began to fail. Took about 3 months to get FoMoCo to comp most of the cost.

Not sure what happened...either factory defect or the incompetent fools at my purchasing dealership doing something stupid when the car was in for warranty work when I was still on speaking terms with them (that dealership managed to crush a rocker molding after my car slipped off their lift, so there's no telling what kind of mischief they were up to).
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Old 01-06-2016, 08:05 PM   #27
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It's fuse 47. I was concerned about my warranty as well but I decided to try it anyway and am glad I did since my shifting has been much better with the SCT than without. And if I start to feel any trouble I will go back to the factory tune for 100 miles and unless the send my ECU to Ford I should be fine.

Good advice on the tranny fluid... Unfortunately I bought mine with 9k miles. But I did pkan on changing the fluid at 20k so it's good to know I wont be wasting my $$.

Lastly, if you burn oil at all do what I did and switch to Royal Purple. It's a little extra dough but my Mustang hasnt burned a drop since and runs at least 10 degrees cooler. That stuff is the real deal.
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:21 PM   #28
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Get a blower, bigger wheels, keep the 2.73's and you won't have that issue. Under 5


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Old 01-06-2016, 10:27 PM   #29
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Question of the year. There's a thread about the whole saga somewhere on ME, but basically last winter it was discovered that the tailshaft was loose in the housing with small ATF leak. After several months and several trips to a top-rated tranny shop in the area, most of the moving parts in the tailhousing needed to be replaced, probably after one of the bearings began to fail. Took about 3 months to get FoMoCo to comp most of the cost.

Not sure what happened...either factory defect or the incompetent fools at my purchasing dealership doing something stupid when the car was in for warranty work when I was still on speaking terms with them (that dealership managed to crush a rocker molding after my car slipped off their lift, so there's no telling what kind of mischief they were up to).
Good grief man. Typically our automatics are solid transmissions that can take a beating. Although, some poor quality parts do happen. Sorry to hear that. Was it covered under your factory warranty?

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Old 01-06-2016, 11:16 PM   #30
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Good grief man. Typically our automatics are solid transmissions that can take a beating. Although, some poor quality parts do happen. Sorry to hear that. Was it covered under your factory warranty?

Non and non fed. I $uck!
Well, my car has been a bit of a basket case in the build quality department from the beginning, so its unlikely I'll be buying another Ford.

I used an independent tranny shop to do the repairs (as I wanted the repairs done right, not half-assed by a stealership). After fighting with Ford, they did ultimately reimburse about 70% of the repair cost.
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Old 01-07-2016, 05:54 AM   #31
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Well, my car has been a bit of a basket case in the build quality department from the beginning, so its unlikely I'll be buying another Ford.

I used an independent shop to do the repairs (as I wanted the repairs done right, not half-assed by a stealership). After fighting with Ford, they did ultimately reimburse about 70% of the repair cost.
Sorry to hear that. My pony only has 52k mikes and hopefully the transmission will stay in good working order. I know I plan to do a transmission flush when I hit 60k miles

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Old 01-07-2016, 06:02 AM   #32
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It's fuse 47. I was concerned about my warranty as well but I decided to try it anyway and am glad I did since my shifting has been much better with the SCT than without. And if I start to feel any trouble I will go back to the factory tune for 100 miles and unless the send my ECU to Ford I should be fine.
Ford can tell how many times it's been reflashed...they may or may not care but they can find out if it's been tuned.

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I will try doing the reset one more time by pulling the fuse before doing anything is it the same if I just take the negative off the battery and let it drain or is the fuse method better.
if you pull the battery you'll have to reset radio/clock for what it's worth.
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Old 01-07-2016, 08:44 AM   #33
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Ford can tell how many times it's been reflashed...they may or may not care but they can find out if it's been tuned.



if you pull the battery you'll have to reset radio/clock for what it's worth.
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Old 01-07-2016, 08:49 AM   #34
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Ford can tell how many times it's been reflashed...they may or may not care but they can find out if it's been tuned.



if you pull the battery you'll have to reset radio/clock for what it's worth.
Yeah thats why I said they would have to send my ECU in to Ford. Apparently local techs wont be able to see anything if you go back to stock and drive for 100 miles, but that could be misinformation.

It was having the occassional bad shift hang at WOT without the SCT, so I really feel Im better off with it then without but yes, it's a slight gamble.
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Old 01-07-2016, 08:54 AM   #35
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Sorry to hear that. My pony only has 52k mikes and hopefully the transmission will stay in good working order. I know I plan to do a transmission flush when I hit 60k miles

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I HIGHLY recommend taking it to a tranny specialist when you do, and do NOT get a pressure flush. Only use a place that hooks the lines up and uses your cars natural flow system to replace the fluid. Those cheap/quick pressure flushes do more damage then good.

You can also save some money by bringing in your own filter/gasket kit when you do it.
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