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Old 01-06-2016, 09:27 PM   #1
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SUSPENSION

From your experience, what should be the first Suspension upgrade I should do? I have 2.73 gears rn by the way.


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Old 01-06-2016, 09:51 PM   #2
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What are you trying to accomplish? Because the answer to this question varies depending on what you are trying to do with the car or a certain look you want for the car


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Old 01-06-2016, 09:58 PM   #3
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I'm looking for speed, speed speed lol


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Old 01-06-2016, 10:15 PM   #4
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SUSPENSION

Well it's safe to say springs are a must no matter what. I wouldn't go super low, but any spring you get is better than stock. I am a huge fan of Steeda suspension. I have the sport springs in mine and I love the stance and the ride.

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Name:	ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1452139321.367915.jpg
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Once you do this there are a few "musts" in my book. You will want to get a good set of shocks and struts because the factory ones are known to fail shortly after being lowered. I wouldn't go with Koni orange as many have had problems with those being squeaky and leaky. I personally have Koni yellows (adjustable) and I love them. But I've heard many say they had good luck with other brands.

I would also invest in strut mounts. Stock ones fall apart and then they clank around. Cheap and effective way out is to get the GT500 ones and order the 05-10 struts (11-14 do not work as they are too short on the top where the threads go). I personally went with Steeda caster camber plates but I like the option to fine tune my alignment easily for the track in the future.

Lastly you will need an adjustable Panhard bar to ensure you get the rearend back where it belongs once lowered. Any brand will do honestly. It's a bar. No biggie. I stuck with Steeda. Great quality.

Now once you have all this to be lowered properly I would do LCAs (lower control arms). No need for adjustable ones. Just some good ones with the poly bushings. Eliminates most all wheel hop and allows the rubber to stay down on the road. You can also consider LCA relo brackets. These will help with your launch and how the rearend is directed when torque is applied. Helps with just spinning tires. I think BMR makes a good set. I opted for these over the Steeda ones because they are bolt on vs the Steeda that require welding on an alignment rack. I plan to weld my BMRs but they self align. As far as the LCAs go, I went Steeda billet for weight reduction and good looks but any brand will get the job done. Just make sure it's not cheaply made.

That's just a good solid base. You can always add or tweak from there. I have a ton more into mine as I plan to start doing auto X at some point



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Old 01-07-2016, 04:47 AM   #5
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^ This is pretty much my setup except that I went with Steeda Sportline dampers and the addition of adjustable sway bars front and rear. The car rides well (not as soft as stock of course) and is great through the twisties. Couldn't be happier with the handling.


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Old 01-07-2016, 05:34 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by iamcesarmiranda View Post
I'm looking for speed, speed speed lol


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2.73s gone gone gone.

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Old 01-07-2016, 05:41 AM   #7
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2.73s gone gone gone.

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Old 01-07-2016, 08:43 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by oxford5pointoh View Post
Well it's safe to say springs are a must no matter what. I wouldn't go super low, but any spring you get is better than stock. I am a huge fan of Steeda suspension. I have the sport springs in mine and I love the stance and the ride.

Attachment 195530

Once you do this there are a few "musts" in my book. You will want to get a good set of shocks and struts because the factory ones are known to fail shortly after being lowered. I wouldn't go with Koni orange as many have had problems with those being squeaky and leaky. I personally have Koni yellows (adjustable) and I love them. But I've heard many say they had good luck with other brands.

I would also invest in strut mounts. Stock ones fall apart and then they clank around. Cheap and effective way out is to get the GT500 ones and order the 05-10 struts (11-14 do not work as they are too short on the top where the threads go). I personally went with Steeda caster camber plates but I like the option to fine tune my alignment easily for the track in the future.

Lastly you will need an adjustable Panhard bar to ensure you get the rearend back where it belongs once lowered. Any brand will do honestly. It's a bar. No biggie. I stuck with Steeda. Great quality.

Now once you have all this to be lowered properly I would do LCAs (lower control arms). No need for adjustable ones. Just some good ones with the poly bushings. Eliminates most all wheel hop and allows the rubber to stay down on the road. You can also consider LCA relo brackets. These will help with your launch and how the rearend is directed when torque is applied. Helps with just spinning tires. I think BMR makes a good set. I opted for these over the Steeda ones because they are bolt on vs the Steeda that require welding on an alignment rack. I plan to weld my BMRs but they self align. As far as the LCAs go, I went Steeda billet for weight reduction and good looks but any brand will get the job done. Just make sure it's not cheaply made.

That's just a good solid base. You can always add or tweak from there. I have a ton more into mine as I plan to start doing auto X at some point



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+1.

If you get the steeda strut mounts they offer like +/- 1* of camber, so its typically enough to align a modest drop.
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Old 01-07-2016, 12:02 PM   #9
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I'm looking for speed, speed speed lol


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Lower rear control arms then. The stock ones hop pretty bad.
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Old 01-07-2016, 12:51 PM   #10
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Hey Oxford, what size are your wheels and tires? I want to get the Steeda sports in the spring. Curious of how it will look on mine.


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Old 01-07-2016, 01:23 PM   #11
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Stupid question here... If I got springs for my car let's say 1.5 inch drop. Is it 1.5 inch drop from what the car would be stock or is it 1.5 inch drop from what my car is currently from roush? Apparently it's dropped almost an inch from roush and it is not enough


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Old 01-07-2016, 01:30 PM   #12
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Stupid question here... If I got springs for my car let's say 1.5 inch drop. Is it 1.5 inch drop from what the car would be stock or is it 1.5 inch drop from what my car is currently from roush? Apparently it's dropped almost an inch from roush and it is not enough


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Old 01-07-2016, 01:34 PM   #13
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Stock

Thanks...next question๐Ÿ˜ฌwhat is the ideal set up to drop?


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Old 01-07-2016, 02:41 PM   #14
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Hey Oxford, what size are your wheels and tires? I want to get the Steeda sports in the spring. Curious of how it will look on mine.


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They are 19" wheels. Front are 19x9 with 255 40 tires

Rear are 19x10 with 285 35 tires.


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Old 01-07-2016, 03:24 PM   #15
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Well it's safe to say springs are a must no matter what. I wouldn't go super low, but any spring you get is better than stock. I am a huge fan of Steeda suspension. I have the sport springs in mine and I love the stance and the ride.

Attachment 195530

Once you do this there are a few "musts" in my book. You will want to get a good set of shocks and struts because the factory ones are known to fail shortly after being lowered. I wouldn't go with Koni orange as many have had problems with those being squeaky and leaky. I personally have Koni yellows (adjustable) and I love them. But I've heard many say they had good luck with other brands.

I would also invest in strut mounts. Stock ones fall apart and then they clank around. Cheap and effective way out is to get the GT500 ones and order the 05-10 struts (11-14 do not work as they are too short on the top where the threads go). I personally went with Steeda caster camber plates but I like the option to fine tune my alignment easily for the track in the future.

Lastly you will need an adjustable Panhard bar to ensure you get the rearend back where it belongs once lowered. Any brand will do honestly. It's a bar. No biggie. I stuck with Steeda. Great quality.

Now once you have all this to be lowered properly I would do LCAs (lower control arms). No need for adjustable ones. Just some good ones with the poly bushings. Eliminates most all wheel hop and allows the rubber to stay down on the road. You can also consider LCA relo brackets. These will help with your launch and how the rearend is directed when torque is applied. Helps with just spinning tires. I think BMR makes a good set. I opted for these over the Steeda ones because they are bolt on vs the Steeda that require welding on an alignment rack. I plan to weld my BMRs but they self align. As far as the LCAs go, I went Steeda billet for weight reduction and good looks but any brand will get the job done. Just make sure it's not cheaply made.

That's just a good solid base. You can always add or tweak from there. I have a ton more into mine as I plan to start doing auto X at some point



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I was looking at the steeds site and found the sport springs ur talking about. It says 1.25 front and 1 rear drop. Why does your call look so much lower than mine? Your wheel gap isn't as much as mine



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Old 01-07-2016, 03:29 PM   #16
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I was looking at the steeds site and found the sport springs ur talking about. It says 1.25 front and 1 rear drop. Why does your call look so much lower than mine? Your wheel gap isn't as much as mine



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Because I'm awesome.

I'm not sure man. But I do definitely have the Steeda sport springs. Although from what I understand the Koni struts will also lower the car another .25


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Old 01-07-2016, 03:35 PM   #17
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Because I'm awesome.

I'm not sure man. But I do definitely have the Steeda sport springs. Although from what I understand the Koni struts will also lower the car another .25


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Old 01-08-2016, 02:04 PM   #18
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If you're not looking to spend much, a good set of LCAs is a great improvement over stock. Really keeps the axle planted on 1-2 shifts.
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Old 01-08-2016, 02:29 PM   #19
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Stupid question here... If I got springs for my car let's say 1.5 inch drop. Is it 1.5 inch drop from what the car would be stock or is it 1.5 inch drop from what my car is currently from roush? Apparently it's dropped almost an inch from roush and it is not enough


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My guess would be that the advertised 1.5" drop was for a stock GT not a stock Roush RS3.
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Old 01-08-2016, 10:49 PM   #20
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My guess would be that the advertised 1.5" drop was for a stock GT not a stock Roush RS3.

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Old 01-10-2016, 10:07 PM   #21
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I'm a sixer with 2.73s as well, which will change but... Most cars have more than most folks are capable of however I'm a big believer in suspension. The world isn't cut in 1/4 mile increments. I put a lot of thought into what suites my spirited driving in prior to dropping coin. I personally like the Eibach Pro Kit. Nice drop but you aren't slammed and for practical purposes you won't bottom out (most roads aren't perfect.) Went with Koni Oranges (two sets - don't ask) but I agree with Ox. The Koni Oranges (STR.Ts) if I had to do over, I wouldn't. I would recommend the yellows. I did the BMR LCA, relocation brackets and panhard bar. Front strut tower brace is a gimmie. Don't waste money on rear brace. I also decided to see how alignment was with Eibach Pro kit prior to deciding on caster/camber plates. Glad I did. Alignment was good and no caster/camber plates needed. If you go lower than the 1.25" drop, that would change. Only thing left for suspension here is sway bars. Did a discount set and will see and report to all.

Short version: Eibach Springs and Panhard bar first. (I didn't need to adjust after lowering but that'll be a case by case thing. Looks good and feels great in the country roads. (Had a female friend recently say off hand, "your car drives like a go cart." Ego filled right there. Good luck.
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