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Old 01-13-2016, 03:01 AM   #1
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Unhappy Blew my 2012 engine*****Need advice on next engine/upgrade

Hey folks, im new to the forum plus im in mourning so plz go easy on me. I just blew the engine in my out of warranty 3.7 and ford quoted me $6900 on parts & labor for a new one. I know that dealerships markup on parts is ridiculously high so im wondering if there is a better option than the local ford dealer to get a new engine. Plus I figure since i have to sink money into it i may as well get a more agressive setup. Any advice on what type of engine i should go with and a whats a fair price range? My current setup: dead 3.7ltr V6 , BBK shorty headers, JLT CAIT, PYPES Bomb resonator tip, Bama X4/SF4 Power Flash Tuner. Any advice greatly appreciated

Thx
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Old 01-13-2016, 03:42 AM   #2
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2jz, 6.2l hemi, 5.0 coyote, or lsx


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Old 01-13-2016, 03:50 AM   #3
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Old 01-13-2016, 04:36 AM   #4
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Yah just order a built 3.7 motor then get jmp twin turbo kit and u will be set.


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Old 01-13-2016, 07:57 AM   #5
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Check places like ebay for a motor, I found some for around $1,200 and less! Then you can pay a shop to do the swap. swaps in our car arent that bad. Mustangs are some of the easiest cars to do swaps in especially if its the stock motor.
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Old 01-13-2016, 08:21 AM   #6
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First and foremost, what happened to the stock motor?
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Old 01-13-2016, 09:07 AM   #7
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thx Volt, I was gonna ask.

don't think of it as nosy but consider it a free bump!
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Old 01-13-2016, 09:22 AM   #8
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I know nothing about engine swaps, so be easy on me. Can you throw in a Coyote and not have to do a lot of other things?
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Old 01-13-2016, 09:31 AM   #9
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I know nothing about engine swaps, so be easy on me. Can you throw in a Coyote and not have to do a lot of other things?
please be careful with the advice you get....

it's not as simple as "throw a coyote in". When I blew my motor, i purchased a stock replacement motor off of ebay for 1,000. it had 26k miles on it, and a 6 month guarantee. just change the oil when you get it (i'm fairly sure they empty it anyways), and check the plugs.

as far as building it, it depends on the condition of the motor. If you can get away with honing it, then the cost will be a lot less. LA Sleeves makes sleeves for our cars, but they're 1400, and they have to have the block for roughly 2 months (keep in mind there's a shipping cost).
Building a motor is not cheap at all (at least not if you build it the right way).
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Old 01-13-2016, 09:59 AM   #10
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I know nothing about engine swaps, so be easy on me. Can you throw in a Coyote and not have to do a lot of other things?
No, you have to do a lot of other things.
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:35 AM   #11
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please be careful with the advice you get....



it's not as simple as "throw a coyote in". When I blew my motor, i purchased a stock replacement motor off of ebay for 1,000. it had 26k miles on it, and a 6 month guarantee. just change the oil when you get it (i'm fairly sure they empty it anyways), and check the plugs.



as far as building it, it depends on the condition of the motor. If you can get away with honing it, then the cost will be a lot less. LA Sleeves makes sleeves for our cars, but they're 1400, and they have to have the block for roughly 2 months (keep in mind there's a shipping cost).

Building a motor is not cheap at all (at least not if you build it the right way).

What all are you doing to your engine to provide maximum protection? I was thinking I could just sleeve the block and stroke it to 4.0l and call it a day.



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Old 01-13-2016, 10:43 AM   #12
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If you want to boost it, i would stay with the 3.7L displacement, if you want NA, the 4.0L MIGHT be worth it. I've done the math on this more times than i can count, but the threads always seem to get buried and i cant ever find them again.
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Old 01-13-2016, 11:34 AM   #13
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If you want to boost it, i would stay with the 3.7L displacement, if you want NA, the 4.0L MIGHT be worth it. I've done the math on this more times than i can count, but the threads always seem to get buried and i cant ever find them again.

Can u tell me why the stroker kit won't be worth it. Because it also comes with forged Pistons and rods.


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Old 01-13-2016, 12:32 PM   #14
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Can u tell me why the stroker kit won't be worth it. Because it also comes with forged Pistons and rods.


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You don't need forged pistons and rods. There is a shop that does turbos for the V6 that kept turning up the boost trying to blow the motor and wound up yanking it in the mid 500rwhp range because it just wouldn't die. I'm not sure there is a consensus yet on exactly how much the stock 3.7L rotating assembly is good for but its a lot.

Find a stock replacement 3.7L, get that, figure out why you blew yours up and then fix that and install the new motor. There is no reason you should blow up a 3.7L unless you or the shop you are paying is doing something stupid.


What all is done to your car?


And with the Coyote thing, it would be cheaper to fix your car with a stock replacement motor and sell it and then buy a GT than to swap. It just will.
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Old 01-13-2016, 01:17 PM   #15
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If you want to boost it, i would stay with the 3.7L displacement, if you want NA, the 4.0L MIGHT be worth it. I've done the math on this more times than i can count, but the threads always seem to get buried and i cant ever find them again.
I'll actually be boring to a 3.9 (the new sleeves are really thick)

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Old 01-13-2016, 01:20 PM   #16
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Can u tell me why the stroker kit won't be worth it. Because it also comes with forged Pistons and rods.


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Won't be worth it for boost because the 3.7 is open deck. It'd be an unnecessary risk with the additional side load

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Old 01-13-2016, 01:25 PM   #17
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What all are you doing to your engine to provide maximum protection? I was thinking I could just sleeve the block and stroke it to 4.0l and call it a day.



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Old 01-13-2016, 01:54 PM   #18
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Thanks, y'all just saved me a ton of money.


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Old 01-13-2016, 02:46 PM   #19
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Thanks, y'all just saved me a ton of money.


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Nothing you listed is going to blow up that motor unless there was something sketch with the Bama tune. Or you were doing something really stupid. Or a manufacturing defect. Or a combination of the 3.
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Old 01-13-2016, 02:48 PM   #20
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Thanks everyone for the responses. So what led to the demise of the previous engine you ask? I adjusted the rev limiter with my tuner and since im a 45 year old who immediately went into a benjimen butner style age reversal & turned 19 everytime i got on a back road (there are plenty of backroads where i live) i put the poor engine through way more than it was designed to handle. So i guess u could say i let a 19 yearold beat it up... I purchased one on ebay for $1200 + shipping & i will let the dealer put it in. I've been feverishly searching all the mustang blogs since this happened the other day & have found no less than 5 instances where the good folks at bama tunes strongly advised against adjusting the parameters inside of their tunes. So yeah, now i feel exponentially stupid. Call it a $4000 lesson...
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Old 01-13-2016, 03:02 PM   #21
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Thanks everyone for the responses. So what led to the demise of the previous engine you ask? I adjusted the rev limiter with my tuner and since im a 45 year old who immediately went into a benjimen butner style age reversal & turned 19 everytime i got on a back road (there are plenty of backroads where i live) i put the poor engine through way more than it was designed to handle. So i guess u could say i let a 19 yearold beat it up... I purchased one on ebay for $1200 + shipping & i will let the dealer put it in. I've been feverishly searching all the mustang blogs since this happened the other day & have found no less than 5 instances where the good folks at bama tunes strongly advised against adjusting the parameters inside of their tunes. So yeah, now i feel exponentially stupid. Call it a $4000 lesson...
Well, at least you are man enough to admit it lol.

You might want to go with an MPT tune this time around, he can even do a ghost cam tune for you which can make your 19 year old self giddy from a nice exhaust rumble but your 45 year old self not spend another $4k because his tunes are spot on.
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Old 01-13-2016, 03:02 PM   #22
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Also if you want to feel 19 again isn't there a little blue pill for that?








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Old 01-13-2016, 03:02 PM   #23
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You don't need forged pistons and rods. There is a shop that does turbos for the V6 that kept turning up the boost trying to blow the motor and wound up yanking it in the mid 500rwhp range because it just wouldn't die. I'm not sure there is a consensus yet on exactly how much the stock 3.7L rotating assembly is good for but its a lot.

Find a stock replacement 3.7L, get that, figure out why you blew yours up and then fix that and install the new motor. There is no reason you should blow up a 3.7L unless you or the shop you are paying is doing something stupid.


What all is done to your car?


And with the Coyote thing, it would be cheaper to fix your car with a stock replacement motor and sell it and then buy a GT than to swap. It just will.
That was LPF, who have basically been a big scam. Took Alrefire forever to get his kit, which turned out to be janky, and there is another guy who has been waiting for like 6 months for his kit and no notice of anything and they won't return calls. But yes Connor turned up the boost in his 3.7 and hit around 600-700 before he pulled it out and put in a built one.
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Old 01-13-2016, 03:06 PM   #24
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That was LPF, who have basically been a big scam. Took Alrefire forever to get his kit, which turned out to be janky, and there is another guy who has been waiting for like 6 months for his kit and no notice of anything and they won't return calls. But yes Connor turned up the boost in his 3.7 and hit around 600-700 before he pulled it out and put in a built one.
Yeah I know it was LPF and I know they are turning out to be scumbags but I also know that story is legit and that their stock motor V6 auto with a turbo was doing pulls alongside a heavily modified Boss door to door.

Way too often that cases like this turn out to where the person makes a product and then says "hey I can sell this" but has zero clue how to properly run a business or that they are going to have to set capital aside for customer service and product support. More ppl need to be like Posi and let everyone know when its getting to be too much and then fufill all the orders taken and bow out. Ah well at least there is a known good turbo builder for the sixxer and there is always Procharger...
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Old 01-13-2016, 03:08 PM   #25
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Thanks everyone for the responses. So what led to the demise of the previous engine you ask? I adjusted the rev limiter with my tuner and since im a 45 year old who immediately went into a benjimen butner style age reversal & turned 19 everytime i got on a back road (there are plenty of backroads where i live) i put the poor engine through way more than it was designed to handle. So i guess u could say i let a 19 yearold beat it up... I purchased one on ebay for $1200 + shipping & i will let the dealer put it in. I've been feverishly searching all the mustang blogs since this happened the other day & have found no less than 5 instances where the good folks at bama tunes strongly advised against adjusting the parameters inside of their tunes. So yeah, now i feel exponentially stupid. Call it a $4000 lesson...
What did you set the rev limiter too? How high on red line did you set it for? Our cars already redline at 7000k rpms!

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Old 01-13-2016, 03:35 PM   #26
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What did you set the rev limiter too? How high on red line did you set it for? Our cars already redline at 7000k rpms!

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Im in tears imagining him redlining for 5+ seconds not shifting. Kaboom.

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Old 01-13-2016, 04:42 PM   #27
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Also if you want to feel 19 again isn't there a little blue pill for that?
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Old 01-13-2016, 05:12 PM   #28
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Well, at least you are man enough to admit it lol.

You might want to go with an MPT tune this time around, he can even do a ghost cam tune for you which can make your 19 year old self giddy from a nice exhaust rumble but your 45 year old self not spend another $4k because his tunes are spot on.
Assuming the OP would of gone with MPT from jump, since he moved the rev limiter up, why wouldn't the engine blow up the same?

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Old 01-13-2016, 05:17 PM   #29
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Assuming the OP would of gone with MPT from jump, since he moved the rev limiter up, why wouldn't the engine blow up the same?

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We still dont actually know why it broke. Mechanical failure would have broken all the same, but if the tune wasn't set up properly at the top end and the computer was forced to extrapolate that could be a tune issue that caused a failed motor.
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Old 01-13-2016, 06:01 PM   #30
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We still dont actually know why it broke. Mechanical failure would have broken all the same, but if the tune wasn't set up properly at the top end and the computer was forced to extrapolate that could be a tune issue that caused a failed motor.
So is the OP saying that his Bama tune caused his engine to blow up??? OP, are you thinking the tune caused the damage?

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Old 01-13-2016, 06:07 PM   #31
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Well if he had a tune that was a bit off and was redlining it like crazy... Like he said $4k lesson.

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Old 01-13-2016, 07:16 PM   #32
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Without a datalog of the incident or a copy of the tune file we just dont know at this point. That being said, MPT does seem to have a better track record than bama at this point.
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Old 01-14-2016, 08:33 AM   #33
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Pretty impressive to blow one of these 3.7s. They're pretty hardy.




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Old 01-14-2016, 10:59 AM   #34
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Which is why we all said that it was either a bad tune or it was a "user error". And that is me being nice... I know we all rag on the canned tunes a lot here but I doubt it was anything to do with the tune.
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Old 01-14-2016, 11:33 AM   #35
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Ignition cuts out at just over 7500 rpm on the 3.7. Its a hard limit and cannot be bypassed by a tune.

When I feel the need to run my car, it sees 7500 rpm quite often. I've had no issues with it... then again my car is tuned to run that rpm.
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