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Old 02-08-2016, 08:20 AM   #1
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Do I have everything I need for lowering

Hello everyone and thanks for reading this. As the title says do i have everything I need? I am about to start to buy the parts I need to lower my car. I just wanna know if I have everything.

Steedd ultra light springs
Steeda dampers
Steeda adjustable sway bars front and back
Steeda lower control arms
Steeda cast camber plates
Steeda adjustable panhard bar
Steeda bump steer kit
Steeda X11 balljoint

That is my list so far please let me know if I am missing anything. I am pretty sure I got it all.and thanks for all your help.


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Old 02-08-2016, 09:00 AM   #2
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You could consider new shocks and struts, as well as an upper control arm/bracket while you're at it in case you go for a 1-piece driveshaft.
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Old 02-08-2016, 09:41 AM   #3
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you are doing better than most! That said I would definitely do shocks and struts while in there anyway. especially if you are over 20,000 miles. You can get a descent set for reasonable price and if paying labor it wont be anymore there.
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Old 02-08-2016, 09:50 AM   #4
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When he says Steeda Dampers, i'm assuming that means shocks / struts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by etr3.7 View Post
Hello everyone and thanks for reading this. As the title says do i have everything I need? I am about to start to buy the parts I need to lower my car. I just wanna know if I have everything.

Steedd ultra light springs
Steeda dampers
Steeda adjustable sway bars front and back
Steeda lower control arms
-Insert brand - Lower control arm relocation brackets
Steeda cast camber plates
Steeda adjustable panhard bar
Steeda bump steer kit
Steeda X11 balljoint

That is my list so far please let me know if I am missing anything. I am pretty sure I got it all.and thanks for all your help.


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Now you have everything. Honestly, that is a very thorough list. Props for actually doing the ball joints and bumpsteer kit as well, thats something most people over look for the price. I know i'm guilty of bumping them down a few times on my own list, but they're really going to improve the feel of a lowered car.
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Old 02-08-2016, 09:56 AM   #5
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Yea I am getting new struts and sHocks, I am going with steeda I do daily it so I want it to be like an oem ride, and at the same time be lower for some corners. I did my research and steeda is the best for me and has warranty and it's made in the USA. Can't go wrong with that


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Old 02-08-2016, 10:51 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
When he says Steeda Dampers, i'm assuming that means shocks / struts.







Now you have everything. Honestly, that is a very thorough list. Props for actually doing the ball joints and bumpsteer kit as well, thats something most people over look for the price. I know i'm guilty of bumping them down a few times on my own list, but they're really going to improve the feel of a lowered car.

When you mean by lower control arm and relocate bracket it is for the back end of the car? Right ? And what about a panhard bar support brace? Do I need one ?


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Old 02-08-2016, 10:56 AM   #7
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I wish that ball joint geometry modifications were legal in my class. They make a lowered car not have worse roll center migration than already present (struts suck for performance).

Thorough list, good for street duty. A good thing to look at would be some good tires to make use of what you will have pushing them against the road.
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Old 02-08-2016, 12:10 PM   #8
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Nice list. I would add the LCA relocation bracket. Check out BMR. They are bolt on. Some require welding. That said if you are planning on drag radials and take it to the strip then go with the weld on ones. You may or may not need the adjustable UCA depending on if you need to adjust your pinion angle. I didn't need one. I was also able to correct wheel hop with the relo brackets.


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Old 02-08-2016, 12:49 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Robostang View Post
Nice list. I would add the LCA relocation bracket. Check out BMR. They are bolt on. Some require welding. That said if you are planning on drag radials and take it to the strip then go with the weld on ones. You may or may not need the adjustable UCA depending on if you need to adjust your pinion angle. I didn't need one. I was also able to correct wheel hop with the relo brackets.


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If there was a track by me I would but I am just going to be daily driving, but I will be opening her up on back roads and highways as long as they are clear of most people.



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Old 02-08-2016, 02:18 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etr3.7 View Post
Hello everyone and thanks for reading this. As the title says do i have everything I need? I am about to start to buy the parts I need to lower my car. I just wanna know if I have everything.

Steedd ultra light springs
Steeda dampers
Steeda adjustable sway bars front and back
Steeda lower control arms
Steeda cast camber plates
Steeda adjustable panhard bar
Steeda bump steer kit
Steeda X11 balljoint

That is my list so far please let me know if I am missing anything. I am pretty sure I got it all.and thanks for all your help.


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Make sure you have a proper bump steer gauge and know how to use it- otherwise the ONLY thing that can possibly happen is making the bump steer worse. Simply buying a bump steer kit and bolting it on is pointless. It's like saying I have a set of feeler gauges and I'm going to adjust my valves, but I'm just going to guess which one to use and it will magically be right. Yeah, not.

If you do the extended ball joints, you will definitely need to do a bumpsteer adjustment or you are just going to throw your geometry in the trash....buying parts willy nilly and throwing them on is pointless. Do it right or don't do it at all.

I suggest you pass on the bumpsteer kit and extended ball joints unless you have somebody in your pocket who understands how to do this properly. Your baisc alignment shop or mechanic will not be able to do it properly beyond just bolting them on and setting the alignment. That is not enough. Its a complicated process and quite laborious. A proper job will be very expensive.

Parts retailers like to sell parts and enthusiasts like to talk about parts, but that is not enough.

Now before anybody gets their panties in a bunch, I am an ex professional chassis designer and builder. I know what I am talking about, trust me on this one.
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Old 02-08-2016, 04:27 PM   #11
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Make sure you have a proper bump steer gauge and know how to use it- otherwise the ONLY thing that can possibly happen is making the bump steer worse. Simply buying a bump steer kit and bolting it on is pointless. It's like saying I have a set of feeler gauges and I'm going to adjust my valves, but I'm just going to guess which one to use and it will magically be right. Yeah, not.

If you do the extended ball joints, you will definitely need to do a bumpsteer adjustment or you are just going to throw your geometry in the trash....buying parts willy nilly and throwing them on is pointless. Do it right or don't do it at all.

I suggest you pass on the bumpsteer kit and extended ball joints unless you have somebody in your pocket who understands how to do this properly. Your baisc alignment shop or mechanic will not be able to do it properly beyond just bolting them on and setting the alignment. That is not enough. Its a complicated process and quite laborious. A proper job will be very expensive.

Parts retailers like to sell parts and enthusiasts like to talk about parts, but that is not enough.

Now before anybody gets their panties in a bunch, I am an ex professional chassis designer and builder. I know what I am talking about, trust me on this one.

I was going to have my friend help me who is a mechanic and graduated from Lincoln tech and is very big in to cars and suspension. But that was a lot of info I did not know about all of that. Thank you for Sharing


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Old 02-08-2016, 04:35 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by etr3.7 View Post
I was going to have my friend help me who is a mechanic and graduated from Lincoln tech and is very big in to cars and suspension. But that was a lot of info I did not know about all of that. Thank you for Sharing


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Basically a road race shop will know WTF is needed.
Doubt anywhere else is going to really know the skinny for sure, although they may claim otherwise.
Mustangs are extra hard because of the struts. You have to remove the spring and sway bar, set alignment at ride height, support the car and jack the suspension through travel 1/2" at a time with a dial indicator and log the curve, then know what that curve means and how to adjust for it. Once the bump is near zero (maybe .015 out per inch or less) you can reassemble the suspension and set the alignment EXACTLY the same.
Failure to do this EXACTLY in this manner is what my high school Auto Shop teacher used to call "Mechanical Masturbation"....it may FEEL good, but you just aren't really doing it.

If anyone advises you otherwise....do not let them touch your car.
They do not understand and can only eff things up.
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Old 02-08-2016, 05:13 PM   #13
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Here is a good animation on how things change as suspension moves.
Just to give you an idea what's happening....it's not as simple as throwing race car parts at it.

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Old 02-08-2016, 05:16 PM   #14
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Lots of youtubes on bump steer...I suggest you watch a bunch of them to get a better understanding on what is what. I haven't seen any of them yet so I can't recommend a good one. you are on your own for now. Enjoy.
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Old 02-08-2016, 05:34 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabman View Post
Lots of youtubes on bump steer...I suggest you watch a bunch of them to get a better understanding on what is what. I haven't seen any of them yet so I can't recommend a good one. you are on your own for now. Enjoy.

Wow thanks for all that. Time to start studying lmao


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Old 02-08-2016, 06:25 PM   #16
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How much did you spend on the entire list you have?


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Old 02-08-2016, 06:40 PM   #17
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Wow thanks for all that. Time to start studying lmao


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Actually still have this article pulled up that i've been reading the past few days in my spare time. Hopefully it helps put some of that video into perspective.

Bump Steer Tips
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Old 02-08-2016, 06:46 PM   #18
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Actually still have this article pulled up that i've been reading the past few days in my spare time. Hopefully it helps put some of that video into perspective.

Bump Steer Tips
YES....this is what I'm talking about.
GOOD FIND!
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Old 02-08-2016, 07:12 PM   #19
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How much did you spend on the entire list you have?


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I am buying it over time, I'm buying the sway bars first.


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Old 02-08-2016, 07:14 PM   #20
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I am buying it over time, I'm buying the sway bars first.


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Oh, if that's the case i'd skip those all together. They're not bad to have, but if you haven't spent the money already i'd bump them towards the bottom of the list.
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Old 02-08-2016, 09:40 PM   #21
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Boy that's some great info on stuff I know nothing about. But I'm going to study up on it until all those lines in that animation, look like more than just a bunch of lines.LOL
On the lighter side, I loved that statement, "Parts retailers like to sell parts and enthusiasts like to talk about parts"
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Old 02-09-2016, 10:09 AM   #22
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Oh, if that's the case i'd skip those all together. They're not bad to have, but if you haven't spent the money already i'd bump them towards the bottom of the list.

I was thinking the same thing I will probably get the shocks and springs first along with the panhard bar and cast camber plates


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Old 02-09-2016, 10:50 AM   #23
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I was thinking the same thing I will probably get the shocks and springs first along with the panhard bar and cast camber plates


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Good thinking.
What is the drop on those springs?
If it's only an inch you won't need the camber plates.
Any small amount of adjustment can be done with camber bolts for a fraction of the price.
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Old 02-09-2016, 12:16 PM   #24
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I personally would not use camber bolts. I'm sure that if a smaller diameter bolt would be appropriate for that application, that Ford would have used a smaller (read less expensive) bolt. I just don't trust them especially if you are going to drive aggressively. Just my opinion, some will disagree.
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Old 02-09-2016, 12:45 PM   #25
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I personally would not use camber bolts. I'm sure that if a smaller diameter bolt would be appropriate for that application, that Ford would have used a smaller (read less expensive) bolt. I just don't trust them especially if you are going to drive aggressively. Just my opinion, some will disagree.
I have never used them myself, but there are a lot of others who have used them quite successfully. I have heard from a few that it is a vulnerability yet I have never heard of a failure. So the jury is still out on that one for me.
A little negative camber is good for the soul so I let it fly on mine but I do pay for it in tire wear as my car is much lower and camber more excessive than he is likely to have, but I run my car hard and the camber is justified. Kind of up to the user what use the car actually see's....camber plates are harsh regarding NVH so if he doesn't need them, why use them? Ford put those nice isolated strut tops on there and they work just fine for street.

Plus, they're free.
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Old 02-09-2016, 03:59 PM   #26
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Boy that's some great info on stuff I know nothing about. But I'm going to study up on it until all those lines in that animation, look like more than just a bunch of lines.LOL
On the lighter side, I loved that statement, "Parts retailers like to sell parts and enthusiasts like to talk about parts"

Lol it doesn't hurt to try to learn something new.


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Old 02-09-2016, 04:11 PM   #27
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1.25 for the front and the back is a 1.5


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Old 02-09-2016, 04:24 PM   #28
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1.25 for the front and the back is a 1.5


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Wouldn't hurt to get some camber bolts....or camber plates if you prefer.
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Old 02-09-2016, 05:12 PM   #29
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Isn't there another option using Ford's instructions to make the lower hole of the lower strut connection a slot? And I assume use a full size bolt.

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Old 02-09-2016, 08:50 PM   #30
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ETR 3.7,

I just sent you a follow-up message but your private message box is full.

Please shoot me a note to tim@steeda.com & we will work with you to get a package price on the parts listed in your message.

Best Regards,

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Old 02-09-2016, 09:56 PM   #31
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ETR 3.7,

I just sent you a follow-up message but your private message box is full.

Please shoot me a note to tim@steeda.com & we will work with you to get a package price on the parts listed in your message.

Best Regards,

TJ

I cleared my in box, But I will still Email you.


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Old 02-11-2016, 05:13 PM   #32
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Make sure you have a proper bump steer gauge and know how to use it- otherwise the ONLY thing that can possibly happen is making the bump steer worse. Simply buying a bump steer kit and bolting it on is pointless. It's like saying I have a set of feeler gauges and I'm going to adjust my valves, but I'm just going to guess which one to use and it will magically be right. Yeah, not.

If you do the extended ball joints, you will definitely need to do a bumpsteer adjustment or you are just going to throw your geometry in the trash....buying parts willy nilly and throwing them on is pointless. Do it right or don't do it at all.

I suggest you pass on the bumpsteer kit and extended ball joints unless you have somebody in your pocket who understands how to do this properly. Your baisc alignment shop or mechanic will not be able to do it properly beyond just bolting them on and setting the alignment. That is not enough. Its a complicated process and quite laborious. A proper job will be very expensive.

Parts retailers like to sell parts and enthusiasts like to talk about parts, but that is not enough.

Now before anybody gets their panties in a bunch, I am an ex professional chassis designer and builder. I know what I am talking about, trust me on this one.
And this is why I have yet to lower my cat. I have springs, adj. Pan hard, LCA and just need adj. LCA relocation brackets. Same lowering height (1.25 front, 1.5 rear). It's a street car, not a racer so I don't feel the need for all the other added expenses.
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Old 02-11-2016, 05:41 PM   #33
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I just saw a video on a popular mustang "How to" site that said just to align the tie rods with the lower control arm angle to bump steer the car....FAIL!
Guaranteed if you actually put a real bump steer gauge on it after doing that it would be way off....my God there is a lot of bad press out there. Unfortunately most folks don't know any better....anything to sell parts I guess.
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Old 02-11-2016, 05:51 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
Actually still have this article pulled up that i've been reading the past few days in my spare time. Hopefully it helps put some of that video into perspective.

Bump Steer Tips
Very good read, nice find.

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Old 02-11-2016, 05:56 PM   #35
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Do you see how lining the tie rod up with the lower control arm is incorrect? Check it out:

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