What do i need to lower my stang? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 03-10-2016, 09:56 AM   #1
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What do i need to lower my stang?

I want to lower my 2014 v6 mustang.
Do i only need the lowering springs or do i have to buy someone else?

Which one do you guys recommend?
.5"-1" not too much.


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Old 03-10-2016, 11:23 AM   #2
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It depends on why you want to lower your car. Is it only for looks or are you looking to improve performance?

If it's just for looks; I would at the very least get springs, camber bolts, and a panhard bar

if it for looks and performance; I would get an Eibach or Ford Racing suspension handling kit.
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Old 03-11-2016, 07:24 AM   #3
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This is what I got for a similar drop:

GT500 Strut Mounts
Eibach Pro Shocks and Struts
Eibach Pro Springs
BMR Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arm
BMR Rear Upper Control Arm Bracket
BMR Rear Lower Control Arms (non-adjustable)
BMR Rear Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets
Eibach Camber Bolts

BMR parts have the Polyurethane Bushings. You wanna have the rear re-centered with the panhard bar and have the pinion angle checked. Also, remember to get an alignment after a few days.
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:41 AM   #4
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What do i need to lower my stang?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZombieSlayer View Post
This is what I got for a similar drop:

GT500 Strut Mounts
Eibach Pro Shocks and Struts
Eibach Pro Springs
BMR Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arm
BMR Rear Upper Control Arm Bracket
BMR Rear Lower Control Arms (non-adjustable)
BMR Rear Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets
Eibach Camber Bolts

BMR parts have the Polyurethane Bushings. You wanna have the rear re-centered with the panhard bar and have the pinion angle checked. Also, remember to get an alignment after a few days.

His car is much different than ours in the rear, he doesn't need half of what you listed nor do half those parts exist on his IRS. He doesn't ever have to worry about the pinion angle, Panhard bars ect. Just sayin.
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:53 AM   #5
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Missed the part that said 2016. If he has a 2016, then what is he doing posting in the 2011-2014 section. Maybe a mod needs to move this to prevent confusion.

Edit: His profile says he has a 2014 V6? Now I am confused...
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Old 03-11-2016, 10:11 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZombieSlayer View Post
Missed the part that said 2016. If he has a 2016, then what is he doing posting in the 2011-2014 section. Maybe a mod needs to move this to prevent confusion.

Edit: His profile says he has a 2014 V6? Now I am confused...

I mean 2014 sorry, didn't see it till now


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Old 03-11-2016, 10:45 AM   #7
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Ok then. My first post still applies.
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Old 03-11-2016, 11:44 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZombieSlayer View Post
Ok then. My first post still applies.

Seems like a lot of money, just going to get bigger wheels to get rid of the gap alittle haha


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Old 03-11-2016, 11:51 AM   #9
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It is a decent little chunk of change if you choose to do it all at once. Now, I have hear people without the 1 piece driveshaft can get away without the upper adj. control arm and bracket.

If you have fairly newer shocks and struts, you can leave the aftermarket ones out for now. But you will eventually need them. I wanted to do it all at once and not have to go back in a few times. So I just waited till I could afford everything.
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Old 03-11-2016, 11:53 AM   #10
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a lot of effort if all you want is 1/2"

my .02 save up till you have all the parts do it 1x springs/mount/shocks/struts/adj phb/adj uca etc.
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Old 03-11-2016, 12:07 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZombieSlayer View Post
It is a decent little chunk of change if you choose to do it all at once. Now, I have hear people without the 1 piece driveshaft can get away without the upper adj. control arm and bracket.

If you have fairly newer shocks and struts, you can leave the aftermarket ones out for now. But you will eventually need them. I wanted to do it all at once and not have to go back in a few times. So I just waited till I could afford everything.

Totally forgot about the driveshaft. Should i get before anything else?


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Old 03-11-2016, 12:17 PM   #12
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To be honest, the 1 piece driveshaft won't do anything for you unless you plan on slapping some 3.73s or 4.10s on and hitting a drag strip OR taking the car over 120 MPH. Maybe both?

If neither, I would put that at the bottom of your to-do list.
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Old 03-11-2016, 01:01 PM   #13
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Hey asvpedwin....Where about in Phx you at. I'm at 111th & Grand. We need to hook up & do some chit to our cars. I'm starting to buy the bolt ons 1st. I built a 94 GT before. Check out my pics if you want to see what I've done to a couple of my old Mustangs.
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Old 03-11-2016, 01:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asvpedwin View Post
Seems like a lot of money, just going to get bigger wheels to get rid of the gap alittle haha
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Bigger wheels doesn't do it.
Taller tires is what's required to help close the gap but then you need to correct the computer for odometer, etc.
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Old 03-11-2016, 04:10 PM   #15
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I dropped my 2012 with just springs n panhard bar. Drove fine, just on acceleration the rear end definitely lost quite a bit of traction compared to before. Eventually I did change shocks struts n all control arms n relo brackets, and it made a huge difference. If I had to do it again, I'd wait and do it all at once simply for the ease of not taking it all apart twice, but you could get away with just springs n panhard bar, you just might not be as comfortable with the handling if you like to drive your mustang a bit more aggressively.

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Old 03-11-2016, 05:38 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibejt View Post
I dropped my 2012 with just springs n panhard bar. Drove fine, just on acceleration the rear end definitely lost quite a bit of traction compared to before. Eventually I did change shocks struts n all control arms n relo brackets, and it made a huge difference. If I had to do it again, I'd wait and do it all at once simply for the ease of not taking it all apart twice, but you could get away with just springs n panhard bar, you just might not be as comfortable with the handling if you like to drive your mustang a bit more aggressively.

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Just springs and panhard bar is okay but you should add the relocation brackets to your LCAs to bring them level again, to avoid losing traction.
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Old 03-11-2016, 11:20 PM   #17
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Ok then. My first post still applies.

Sorry, he did say 2016
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