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Old 04-07-2016, 08:08 AM   #36
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Yeah I saw that too, which will be very nice for the refill! Sadly I couldnt find one decent video on a 11-14 stang for pan dropping though.
That's why I'm just having the transmission experts do it. Full flush, pan drop and new filter. Done.

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Old 04-07-2016, 08:44 AM   #37
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I know someone posted a video on here somewhere of the same transmissions we have but on a f150. its all the same stuff, trying look up on YouTube the transmission number in stead of the car


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Old 04-07-2016, 08:46 AM   #38
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Just go to a crowded parking lot where there is another Mustang. Jack it up, and swap transmissions. Gotta be quick though!!!

OR! With the way money grows on trees these days, just buy a new transmission every 60k miles.

I know, I know, the best suggestions yet.
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Old 04-07-2016, 09:16 AM   #39
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if you are gonna do this I'd get the V8 with it too.
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Old 04-07-2016, 09:27 AM   #40
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LMAO! It wouldn't surprise me. It is crazy how much stuff people get away with in parking lots. Like, people's wheels and stuff getting stolen. You can't tell me no one notices stuff like that? lol

I can see it now. Some guy pulling the engine out of someone else's car and someone walks by and says "Hey, what's up?". and you say "Oh nothing much! Just pulling the engine out and checking it cuz my car won't start!"

LMAO!
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Old 04-07-2016, 09:41 AM   #41
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I know someone posted a video on here somewhere of the same transmissions we have but on a f150. its all the same stuff, trying look up on YouTube the transmission number in stead of the car


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Old 04-07-2016, 05:54 PM   #42
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Having been in the car repair business for 40 years, I've never seen
any evidence that changing trans fluid makes the trans last longer, but I have seen many instances where changing the fluid made it go out. I learned my lesson about
this on my 69 GTO convertible in 1972. I changed the fluid and filter and it went out two days later at 48,000 miles. I was a teenager going to college then so I took it to a trans shop to have it rebuilt and asked the elderly owner of the shop why the transmission went out. His reply was that it happened because I changed the fluid. That was good enough for me. Lesson learned. By the way, I still own that GTO and it now has the same fluid installed in the overhaul 44 years ago and at 164,000 miles it shifts perfectly. I also have a Ford Expedition with 300,000 miles
on the tranny with it's original fluid that still shifts perfectly that has towed heavy trailers quite often since day one. My 2000 Grand Prix GTP has 220,000 miles on the original trans and fluid and shifts perfectly. My brother has a 1993 Chevrolet S10 with 350,000 miles on the original trans and fluid and it shifts perfectly. Find
another use for your money, changing your trans fluid is not going to improve your lot in life but it could cost you big time.
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Old 04-07-2016, 06:07 PM   #43
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That same thing happened on my 3000GT. While attempting to be Proactive, we flushed the auto trans and put the oem recommended fluid back in. No more then 2,000 miles later, the trans started slipping and eventually just went out.


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Old 04-07-2016, 11:12 PM   #44
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Never flush a tranny, IMO. I literally just got done dropping my pan, cleaning it and the magnet good, and putting in just under 7 qts of Royal Purple. Took about 3 hours (takes forever to get the fluid back in) and the test drive was very smooth. I would get a "clank" before when I would put her into gear and now she's quiet as a kitten.


The magnet didn't have any shards or evidence of issues, but it was very dirty. In the end I spent under $100 and I have a new filter and the peace of mind knowing that my tranny is clean and will stay that way as long as I own her.


I plan on repeating the process every 2-3 years. Now I have the two most vital parts of my Pony protected with the Purple... and it feels damn good.
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Old 04-07-2016, 11:18 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GRREEN View Post
Having been in the car repair business for 40 years, I've never seen
any evidence that changing trans fluid makes the trans last longer, but I have seen many instances where changing the fluid made it go out. I learned my lesson about
this on my 69 GTO convertible in 1972. I changed the fluid and filter and it went out two days later at 48,000 miles. I was a teenager going to college then so I took it to a trans shop to have it rebuilt and asked the elderly owner of the shop why the transmission went out. His reply was that it happened because I changed the fluid. That was good enough for me. Lesson learned. By the way, I still own that GTO and it now has the same fluid installed in the overhaul 44 years ago and at 164,000 miles it shifts perfectly. I also have a Ford Expedition with 300,000 miles
on the tranny with it's original fluid that still shifts perfectly that has towed heavy trailers quite often since day one. My 2000 Grand Prix GTP has 220,000 miles on the original trans and fluid and shifts perfectly. My brother has a 1993 Chevrolet S10 with 350,000 miles on the original trans and fluid and it shifts perfectly. Find
another use for your money, changing your trans fluid is not going to improve your lot in life but it could cost you big time.
I worked as a service tech at a Mazda/Subaru dealer and I can say first hand that the "lifetime" ATF is complete BS. I had to explain to multiple Mazda owners that their tranny was shot at around 100K. Had my tech drop the pan and it was BLACK with what looked like copper fluid in the bottom. The magnet looked like a metal chia pet.

The reason flushes make the tranny fail is that people wait WAY TOO LONG to replace the fluid. By then the original fluid has completely broke down and lost most of it's lubricating properties, which causes build up and wear which causes gunk/debris that deposits in the tranny. When flushed it spreads the deposits everywhere and you killed your tranny.

If you keep the fluids clean you wont have to rely on sludge and spent fluid to hold it together. You also wont have to live with slipping and hard shifts starting at 90k+.

Small investments make a BIG difference.
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Old 04-08-2016, 12:08 AM   #46
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I worked as a service tech at a Mazda/Subaru dealer and I can say first hand that the "lifetime" ATM is complete BS. I had to explain to multiple Mazda owners that their tranny was shot at around 100K. Had my tech drop the pan and it was BLACK with what looked like copper fluid in the bottom. The magnet looked like a metal chia pet.

The reason flushes make the tranny fail is that people wait WAY TOO LONG to replace the fluid. By then the original fluid has completely broke down and lost most of it's lubricating properties, which causes build up and wear which causes gunk/debris that deposits in the tranny. When flushed it spreads the deposits everywhere and you killed your tranny.

If you keep the fluids clean you wont have to rely on sludge and spent fluid to hold it together. You also wont have to live with slipping and hard shifts starting at 90k+.

Small investments make a BIG difference.
Yes sir. Totally agree. That's why today I got a full transmission flush, dropped the pan and a brand new filter. I have 53k miles on it and perfect time to have this service done.

I went to a business that specializes in transmissions (AAMCO). They flushed all the lines, refilled with Mercon L5 , dropped the pan and put a brand new Motorcraft filter in. $249 total.

Just a near stock 3.7
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Old 04-08-2016, 12:19 AM   #47
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Yes sir. Totally agree. That's why today I got a full transmission flush, dropped the pan and a brand new filter. I have 53k miles on it and perfect time to have this service done.

I went to a business that specializes in transmissions (AAMCO). They flushed all the lines, refilled with Mercon L5 , dropped the pan and put a brand new Motorcraft filter in. $249 total.

Just a near stock 3.7
And for a mere $250 every 3-4 years your tranny will perform like new well over 100k miles.

I dont want my tranny to "not die" at 100k+... I want it to still perform like new. That's where the keeping fluids clean matters.
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Old 04-08-2016, 12:44 AM   #48
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My 'stang's 6R80 had to be partially rebuilt at around 52K miles...needle bearing in the tailhousing failed and wore out a bunch of components on the back end of the tranny. Took the tranny shop about 3 tries to get it fully fixed, but hey, at least I got a full fluid replacement.

There's a little bit of whine in the lower gears, but it shifts perfectly and has been thoroughly tested with some WOT runs by me without incident.
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Old 04-09-2016, 12:02 PM   #49
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For those that believe their auto trans is good-to-go for life, check out my new thread on my pan drop. Quite a bit a black sludge collected from what we assume is the trans break-in period.


I for one would not want that crap contaminating my fluids for the life of the car.
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Old 04-09-2016, 05:48 PM   #50
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For those that believe there auto trans is good-to-go for life, check out my new thread on my pan drop. Quite a bit a black sludge collected from what we assume is the trans break-in period.


I for one would not want that crap contaminating my fluids for the life of the car.
Amen to that bro.

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Old 04-10-2016, 12:22 PM   #51
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I think I may toss in new coils along with the plugs. Anyone using NGK plugs? I've always used them previously, but I'm having a hard time finding a part number for Mustang specific ones.
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Old 04-10-2016, 12:32 PM   #52
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I think I may toss in new coils along with the plugs. Anyone using NGK plugs? I've always used them previously, but I'm having a hard time finding a part number for Mustang specific ones.
Dont use the 1 step colder NGKs if your car is close to stock. Only FI or nitrous applications should use those. Or the car will run like poo.
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Old 04-11-2016, 11:25 AM   #53
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Dont use the 1 step colder NGKs if your car is close to stock. Only FI or nitrous applications should use those. Or the car will run like poo.
May just stick with OEM plugs then and throw on the Accel coils. I'd buy new OEM coils but they're $30 more expensive per coil.
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Old 04-11-2016, 11:35 AM   #54
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May just stick with OEM plugs then and throw on the Accel coils. I'd buy new OEM coils but they're $30 more expensive per coil.
I was thinking of Accel coils too but I honestly wouldn't waste my time man. MAYBE if you had heavy bolt-ons but even then, they would only burn the amount of fuel you are dumping. Which our stock coils do just fine.

I mean, you COULD get the cool factor under your hood. But for $400, you can get headers, tuner, gears, etc.
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Old 04-11-2016, 11:40 AM   #55
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I was thinking of Accel coils too but I honestly wouldn't waste my time man. MAYBE if you had heavy bolt-ons but even then, they would only burn the amount of fuel you are dumping. Which our stock coils do just fine.

I mean, you COULD get the cool factor under your hood. But for $400, you can get headers, tuner, gears, etc.
I'm not worried about "cool factor". Just want to replace problematic parts that may go wrong in the near future. Hell, you can't even really see them. Especially with 3 hidden under the intake manifold.

As far as headers, tuner, gears, etc... That stuff has to wait until after Sep 2017. Not violating my warranty since I daily drive it.
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Old 04-11-2016, 11:44 AM   #56
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Stick coils> everything else

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Old 04-11-2016, 12:09 PM   #57
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Stick coils> everything else

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Pretty much this. The 2011 Mustang I had had over 105,000 miles on it and ran fine. So I don't think our stock coils catch any issues. Any coil can just go out. The beauty of mechanics.
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