MMD hood scoop PLUS 3 bolt install DIY - Mustang Evolution

Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 4 Cylinder | V6 | Classic Mustangs || Tech and Talk > 2011-2014 V6 Mustang



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them here!
Old 04-01-2016, 08:01 PM   #1
Registered Member
Regular
 
Hawkstang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Sioux City
Region: Iowa
Posts: 1,273
MMD hood scoop PLUS 3 bolt install DIY

Installing a MMD hood scoop with an extra three bolts for a better seal

PREFACE: Not using tape may cause paint and clear coat damage. Attempt at your own risk. I wouldn't have done this if my vinyl stripes weren't wider then the scoop base. Also you could try this method WITH THE TAPE... it might help give you a tighter more consistent gap.

So here we go...

I decided to purchase an MMD hood scoop but didn’t want the uneven gaps around the edge and visible light when looking inside the scoop, so I opted to drill an extra three holes and craft three anchor points to my new scoop. I also chose to not use the 3M tape to secure the scoop, instead letting the now seven bolts hold it tightly in place, which gave me a very nice and flawless seal. Some members asked me to do a full write up so below will detail how I pulled it off, step by step…

STEP ONE: Carefully inspect your hood for any defects or shipping damage. There are a few reviews on AM about receiving damaged scoops so be sure to be thorough. I was fortunate enough to receive mine with zero defects. KEEP THE FAOM THAT PROTECTED IT INNSIDE THE BOX, YOU WILL USE THIS AND A THICK TOWEL ON A TABLE DURING THE ENTIRE PROCESS TO PROTECT THE FINISH.



STEP TWO: I also opted to paint my scoop grill to match my stripes. I was very happy with the end result, but if my front grill and trim were black, I would have left it black or painted it gloss black (I think that would look awesome btw). If you do this, prep by cleaning with rubbing alcohol first and then apply coats every 30 mins and let dry for 24 hours before you install.



STEP THREE: Hit Menards and go to the screw section and buy the following…
A small box of machined screws, size 8-32x1.5” (that come with the nuts)
A small bag of rubber washers (at least 7)
A small box of locker washers (at least 14)
A small box of metal washers (at least 14)

STEP FOUR: Making the extra three bolt points. Eyeball the two side points (see my pic for where I placed mine) and center your point in the back. I used a grinder drill bit tool to notch in anchor points. Be VERY CAREFUL when doing this not to grind into the underneath of the scoop. Just take your time and notch straight into the anchor panels, roughly a half inch but you can tell when you’re deep enough that your bolt wont slip out. NOTE on the back one you have little room to work. I angle when I notched so that I wouldn’t hit the underneath of the scoop. You won’t need much of a notch here so don’t press your luck by going too deep.

STEP FIVE: Install the ONLY the four original anchor bolts to the original four slots. NOTE: IF YOU DECIDE TO REMOVE THE ORIGINAL CLIPS FOR ANY REASON, DO NOT YANK ON THEM. USE A BUTTER KNIFE TO PRY UP THE CLIPS AND THEN GENTLY SLIDE THEM OFF. You can crack the plastic if you try to man handle a clip off.

STEP SIX: Follow the instruction that come with the scoop and very carefully center the template on your clean hood and tape it down GOOD once it’s perfect. You will need to leave this on for a while so make sure it’s taped good so it doesn’t shift of slide. Once it’s perfect, go ahead and drill your original four holes per instructions. Have a vacuum ready to suck up the metal shavings and put a couple towels over your engine bay.


STEP SEVEN: Once you have your four original holes drilled, take some chewing gum, chew it up and make 3 little balls of gum and put them on your new anchor points notched into the scoop. Just put the gum on light enough to not fall off. Then – WITH THE PAPER TEMPLATE STILL ON YOUR HOOD – take your scoop and carefully fit the original anchor bolts in the four holes and press it straight down. When you lift it off, the three pieces of gum should stick to the template paper and show you exactly where you need to drill your next three holes. Once they are drilled, make sure you have a clean hole on top and underneath your hood, all to specs of the instructions.



STEP EIGHT: Take your scoop back inside and lay it belly side up on the table. Take your new 1.5” bolts and slide a lock washer and then a reg washer over it. Slide it into your new notch and then use the 3M tape that comes with and go BETWEEN THE PLASTIC ANCHOR RAIL AND THE UNDERNEATH OF THE SCOOP and firmly tape the top if the screw head to the anchor rail. This will hold them firmly in place for when you install the scoop to the hood so the bolts go through your drill holes without moving on you.





STEP NINE: After using the 3M tape to secure the scoop grill to the scoop (I only did the top if the grill with tape, NOT the sides. The top is plenty and I didn’t want any tape pushing the sides out) take the template off your hood and clean the hood surface good. MAKE SURE ALL METAL SHAVINGS ARE VACUUMED SO THAT YOU DON’T SCRATCH YOUR PAINT WHEN YOU CLEAN IT). Give each drill hole a dab of clear silicone caulk to protect the exposed metal. Carefully install your scoop making sure all seven bolts go cleanly through all drill holes.



STEP TEN: Put your hood up so you can see all seven bolts. Pull the bolts through as far as they will go and put a RUBBER WASHER on each, followed by a metal washer and then a lock washer. Then put the nut on and gently HAND tighten just until you feel resistance. Once this is all done shut your hood and gently shift the scoop to perfect center. Then gently open the hood again and begin firmly HAND tightening, starting with the two NEW side bolts, then the NEW rear center bolt, then the back corners, then the front corners. Set your hood back down and check the scoop for center and gently but firmly push down in the center of the scoop, then around the sides. This will make sure there is no buckling. Once that is done lift the hood back up and finish tightening all bolts, this time with a wrench. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. You will feel the scoop tightening down and with the two lock washers on each bolt, it should keep you from over tightening. Just use your best judgment, with the now seven anchor points it won’t take as much to make the scoop completely and firmly secure… so don’t over do it.



STEP ELEVEN: Carefully remove the towels from your engine bay so the shavings do not fall in. You will likely have to use scissors to cut a straight slit in the middle of the back of your hood insulator to slide it over the rear middle bolt, but the rest of the hood insulator will go on just fine with the bolts sticking out as is. You’re MMD scoop is now nice and tight to your hood and if all went well, you should be able to rock the weight of your car by pushing on the scoop WITHOUT any shifting or play.

Now go out and enjoy the muscular new look of your Pony!!!





Hawkstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 04-03-2016, 09:01 PM   #2
Registered Member
Regular
 
Hawkstang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Sioux City
Region: Iowa
Posts: 1,273
UPDATE: YOU MUST USE THE TAPE!!!


Oxford5 was 100% correct, without the tape the scoop cuts into your vinyl and most certainly would damage your paint.


On the bright side, thanks to Oxford5 I kept an eye on it and corrected it before any real damage was done.


Also, using the 3 extra bolts WITH the tap seemed to give me a very nice consistent seal, so my work wasn't a complete waste of time. lol
Hawkstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2016, 11:54 PM   #3
Registered Member

Regular
 
oxford5pointoh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Murica
Region: Other
Posts: 4,069
😉
oxford5pointoh is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 04-04-2016, 07:15 AM   #4
Registered Member
Regular
 
Hawkstang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Sioux City
Region: Iowa
Posts: 1,273
Quote:
Originally Posted by oxford5pointoh View Post
😉
Hey, I had to try right? Lol
Hawkstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2016, 08:28 AM   #5
Evolution's Finest
Supporter
 
MustangDawg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Lake Forest
Region: California
Posts: 726
Thumbs up Excellent write up!

Well done and thank you so much for the time and effort! Every picture tells a story. Hopefully this can be made into a stickie in the DIY section. Thanks again
__________________
2013 V6 Auto Premium | Sterling Gray | Pony/Comfort/Security Packages
Borla S-Type AB, Airaid CAI, SR Performance STB, JLT Oil Separator, MPT Tuned, MMD Classic Louvers, Roush Upper & Lower Grilles, BFGoodrich G-Force Sport Comp-2 A/S Tires, Koni STR.T Shocks & Struts, SR Performance Lowering Springs, J&M Stainless Steel Teflon Brake Lines, BMR LCAs w/Brackets, BMR Panhard Rod Support, Whiteline Adj. Panhard Bar, Ford Racing Differential Finned Cover Plate, Philips X-tremeVision LED Fog Lamps, JMS PedalMax
MustangDawg is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2016, 06:29 PM   #6
Registered Member
Regular
 
Geodude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Santa Clarita
Region: California
Posts: 50
Looks cool - thanks for sharing photos
Geodude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2016, 06:39 PM   #7
Registered Member
Regular
 
Hawkstang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Sioux City
Region: Iowa
Posts: 1,273
Thanks guys, I appreciate it. Like I said, my stubborness made me do what I could to avoid the tape, but in the end I still got a tight fit even with it so it was worth the effort.

Ill take pics of the fit with the tape tonight.
Hawkstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2016, 08:01 PM   #8
Registered Member

Regular
 
oxford5pointoh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Murica
Region: Other
Posts: 4,069
I am just glad you weren't too stubborn to keep an eye on it. I didn't want to argue with you on here or be a dick. I'm glad it all worked out in the end 😀👌🏻
oxford5pointoh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2016, 08:06 PM   #9
Registered Member
Regular
 
Hawkstang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Sioux City
Region: Iowa
Posts: 1,273
Quote:
Originally Posted by oxford5pointoh View Post
I am just glad you weren't too stubborn to keep an eye on it. I didn't want to argue with you on here or be a dick. I'm glad it all worked out in the end 😀👌🏻
Nope, I knew you were being helpful... It's all good! Thanks again for tge heads up! My hood thanks you too lol
Hawkstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 4 Cylinder | V6 | Classic Mustangs || Tech and Talk > 2011-2014 V6 Mustang

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
MMD hood strut woes - can't bolt stock hood hinge back on bazinga11 2011-2014 V6 Mustang 16 09-22-2014 12:34 PM
Eibach Pro Sysytem Plus or Sport System Plus?? Sterlingbeast5.0 2011-2014 Mustang GT 39 08-01-2014 03:27 PM
For Sale: '10-'12 MMD Hood Scoop WhoDat Mustang Parts for Sale and Wanted 22 03-04-2014 09:43 PM
MMD Hood Scoop Stew5.0 2011-2014 Mustang GT 10 11-27-2013 07:33 AM
Eibach Pro-System-Plus vs. Eibach Sport-System-Plus MustangGT02 1996-2004 Mustang GT 15 01-12-2013 03:45 PM

» Like Us On Facebook



08:58 AM


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

MustangEvolution.com is in no way associated with or endorsed by Ford Motor Company.