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Old 09-04-2016, 01:49 AM   #36
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Certainly doable without a lift, Tym. If I recall it will help to have a set of ratcheting box wrenches. Can't recall exactly which sizes.


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Old 09-05-2016, 11:37 AM   #37
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IDK how I stumbled on this thread but this has been an issue I've been needing to solve I have a 2014 with 20K and it's been having this issue since 15K or so I could never figure out what the noise was since it was on and off and usually during a crawling hard turn (90degree neighborhood or parking) I thought it was the electric motor going put but your description sounds spot on
It's like a groan and pop when turning it drives me crazy making me and everyone in my car cringe in disgust
I'll see if replacing helps when I get the chance for now I'm off to auto zone to buy silicone lube

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Old 09-05-2016, 02:51 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by swhitfield2013 View Post
IDK how I stumbled on this thread but this has been an issue I've been needing to solve I have a 2014 with 20K and it's been having this issue since 15K or so I could never figure out what the noise was since it was on and off and usually during a crawling hard turn (90degree neighborhood or parking) I thought it was the electric motor going put but your description sounds spot on
It's like a groan and pop when turning it drives me crazy making me and everyone in my car cringe in disgust
I'll see if replacing helps when I get the chance for now I'm off to auto zone to buy silicone lube

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That's not quite the same sound I was experiencing, any chance you can record it on your phone and post it here? I'd like to check that one out.


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Old 09-05-2016, 03:27 PM   #39
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That's not quite the same sound I was experiencing, any chance you can record it on your phone and post it here? I'd like to check that one out.


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I'll see if I can I don't have the best quality phone I put the silicon lubricant on the joints and I think it helped well see though

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Old 09-14-2016, 11:22 AM   #40
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That's not quite the same sound I was experiencing, any chance you can record it on your phone and post it here? I'd like to check that one out.


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I noticed it again about a day after the silicone application when I get back home in a couple days I'll make a new thread with a video to show the noise

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Old 09-18-2016, 05:31 PM   #41
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My LCAs have stayed quiet lately, so I haven't replaced them yet. I did order the heat shields and screws, though.

Yesterday I decided to upgrade the front end links, since they can pop/clunk when the ball ends wear out. I bought the Steeda adjustable units, set them at stock length, and installed (which required three wrenches to keep everything aligned). Clunks galore! Got under the car today and the ball ends had developed play (everything else was tight)--Steeda must have gotten some bad parts. Put the stockers back on (which were actually in perfect shape) and will contact Steeda in the morning.

Sometimes in this hobby you have a zero sum game day...LOL.
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Old 11-07-2016, 08:49 AM   #42
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[QUOTE=tombrochard;2391933]Hey Tym,
I think Tasca was $99, but I was able to talk with them and confirm they had the correct parts. Plus I was able to get the screws and heat shields from them at the same time. The convenience was worth it. Thanks too for getting me the parts numbers so I could get the right stuff the first time.

In regards to installing them, I'll let you know. It looks like it's about an hour a side or so, but I gotta read the service manual first to see what I'm in for. I'll let you know how it goes next weekend

Yuck! that's what is was like putting these things in. An 18mm and 21MM ratcheting box wrench will make things go quicker. if you can unbolt the steering rack bolts you can move the steering rack out of the way to pull out the front sway bar bolts. Mine were really stuck so rather than chance breaking them I turned the wheels all the way in one direction and snuck them out past the rubber boots on the steering rack. really awful trying to get that done, I ended up using a lot of silicon spray on the boots to get the bolts past them. Here's a link showing how to do the entire thing:

here's some other stuff they don't mention: you've gotta tap out the screw holes on the control arm for the heat shields. Don't use phillips head machine screws like I did, you need hex head because you can't get a phillips head on the screw closest to the catalytic convertor. See attached images

If I could do it all again I'd heat up the steering rack bolts (2) and lower the rack. it took 30 minutes a side to get out the front control arm bolt. Other than that everything went pretty much along the lines of the video I put in this post. Just make sure you have all your tools laid out like he shows at the beginning of the video. I'd also add PB blaster and a propane torch with a tiny tip to that list of tools he shows. BTW, harbor fright (yes, they are frightening at times) doesn't have an 18mm or 21 mm ratcheting box wrench. For those you'll have to find a real tool store.

Let me know if you've got further questions and stay tuned for more misadventures of Tom in Mustang Repair Land.....
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Old 11-07-2016, 10:40 PM   #43
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^Thanks for the thorough write-up! Miraculously, my silicone-sprayed-LCAs have been staying quiet, so with the cold weather around the corner, I might put this off until the spring. I have the shields and hex bolts already. Will drop some coin on the LCAs themselves when some good discounts roll around.

I'm thinking I might have the (good) local shop around here do the install. I'll need a front end alignment afterwards anyway, so might as well see if they can do a package deal.
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Old 11-21-2016, 12:37 PM   #44
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Yeah, I'd consider having a shop donut if you have the funds. I'm guessing it's probably three hours of labor at $100 or so an hour. Better than six hours of your time for sure


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Old 02-22-2017, 12:43 PM   #45
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Rockauto was out of stock for a bit, but I finally spent some XMas money and ordered a pair of Rev D LCAs--about $85 apiece shipped. I already had the heat shields and bolts, so put them on.

When the (good) local shop sends one of their periodic labor discount coupons in the mail, I'll have the new LCAs installed in the car.
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Old 04-28-2017, 04:34 PM   #46
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OK, just got back from having the new Rev D front LCAs installed by the local family owned shop. Final cost including alignment was a little under $340 (shop labor's around $90-$100 an hour around here).

Between this and replacing two old factory rear stabilizer bar bushings in my driveway last weekend, the car is feeling more assured and quieter while driving. I'm all set for the CT Spring Cruise!
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Old 04-29-2017, 01:55 PM   #47
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I just had my 2014 gt diagnosed with my driver side LCR being RIP. Dealer will be covering it under warranty.
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Old 04-29-2017, 03:53 PM   #48
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I just had my 2014 gt diagnosed with my driver side LCR being RIP. Dealer will be covering it under warranty.
Make sure they put on the Rev D control arms with heat shields (part numbers upthread).

Good luck!
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Old 06-10-2017, 05:51 PM   #49
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So new update
I changed my diff to 3.55 put it in storage for 6 months came back now I have the goan and pop again.
I tried lubing all the front connections it didn't work. I took my car to firestone for an alignment thinking that was why it made noises turning, they said it was all fine but that my diff was leaking and that was the noise issue.

Any suggestions on what I should do from here?

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Old 06-10-2017, 10:32 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by swhitfield2013 View Post
So new update
I changed my diff to 3.55 put it in storage for 6 months came back now I have the goan and pop again.
I tried lubing all the front connections it didn't work. I took my car to firestone for an alignment thinking that was why it made noises turning, they said it was all fine but that my diff was leaking and that was the noise issue.

Any suggestions on what I should do from here?

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Can you localize the sound to front/back?

Did you ever have the front LCAs replaced?
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Old 06-11-2017, 01:55 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by tym_v6 View Post
Can you localize the sound to front/back?

Did you ever have the front LCAs replaced?
it sounds like the front, I never replaced my LCA' s but I only have 20,000 miles on my car, I do have long tube headers though.
The mechanic said he heard it coming from the rear of the car.

I looked at my lcas and didn't see heat sheilds, I sprayed it with lube that didn't work. Not sure what to do next.
Maybe try and top off the diff fluid to see if the mechanic is right?



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Old 06-12-2017, 09:01 PM   #52
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if your diff is leaking its probably the pinion seal. went bad on mine, and Ford had to replace... luckily under warranty. but mine went at prob like 17k miles.
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Old 06-13-2017, 09:12 PM   #53
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If you can localize the problem to front/back (maybe have a friend ride around with you in the back with one of the seats folded down?) it'll help you figure out what to do next.

Of the two, a differential problem is the "bigger deal" and should be fixed before too long. Squeaky and dry front LCA bushings aren't really a safety issue--at least not for a while if the rubber holds together.
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Old 06-23-2017, 03:53 PM   #54
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My GF's '13 convertible is doing this. Definitely noise from the front so I'm pretty positive it's the LCAs. 87,900 miles on her car, so not too surprising I guess. I was reading the thread earlier and was wondering why everyone was saying the steering rack had to be moved. Did an oil/filter change on her car today and now I understand why. What a PITA. Need to see if she wants to do anything about it or just leave it be.
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Old 06-23-2017, 07:00 PM   #55
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My GF's '13 convertible is doing this. Definitely noise from the front so I'm pretty positive it's the LCAs. 87,900 miles on her car, so not too surprising I guess. I was reading the thread earlier and was wondering why everyone was saying the steering rack had to be moved. Did an oil/filter change on her car today and now I understand why. What a PITA. Need to see if she wants to do anything about it or just leave it be.
You could try the silicone spray trick. Might make the hydro bushings shut up a bit while you choose your final course of action.
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Old 06-23-2017, 07:10 PM   #56
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You could try the silicone spray trick. Might make the hydro bushings shut up a bit while you choose your final course of action.
Just squirt the spray into the hydro bushing where the LCA goes into it? I do have silicone spray on hand...
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Old 06-28-2017, 06:41 AM   #57
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If you can localize the problem to front/back (maybe have a friend ride around with you in the back with one of the seats folded down?) it'll help you figure out what to do next.

Of the two, a differential problem is the "bigger deal" and should be fixed before too long. Squeaky and dry front LCA bushings aren't really a safety issue--at least not for a while if the rubber holds together.
I recently had a buddy do just that with me. It's from the rear, only makes noise when I'm just barely moving (parking). And can sometimes be stopped by putting the car in neutral but not always. I'm even more confused than I was before.

Side note i accidentally used lithium grease instead of the silicon grease on the tie rods and front connections. Just a heads up that creates a huge mess don't do it. It threw the lithium grease all on the inside of my rims and was a huge pain to clean off.

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Old 07-01-2017, 11:30 PM   #58
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Just squirt the spray into the hydro bushing where the LCA goes into it? I do have silicone spray on hand...
Pretty much. I just went to town with the spray can and tube. Should knock down the noise for a little while at least.
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Old 07-18-2017, 05:34 PM   #59
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I've got this creakiness coming from what I think is my front passengers side brake.. like as i'm coming to a stop, it's creaky sounding and as I let off the pedal it creaks, and when I'm completely off, it stops. so i assume it's brakes. but what does the LCA problem sound like? is it always a noise hitting bumps? bc i don't get it hitting bumps, just braking, but i was wondering if it's the forward momentum of braking that's making something creak that isn't brakes. it's like a creaky knocky noise.
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