Extra considerations with JMP twin turbo - Mustang Evolution

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Old 09-29-2016, 11:26 PM   #1
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Extra considerations with JMP twin turbo

So I've finally set my mind to it and budgeted for the twin turbo kit from JMP. I'm not completely sold yet (details such as installation/extra parts).
I spoke with Jack and he suggested the spec 3 clutch with aluminum fly wheel as an extra upgrade needed as well as the ID1000 injectors.
I've wanted to go through with this for a bit over a year now and I would like some input, I realize I'm shelling out a lot so I shouldn't skimp on something dumb and risk it but,

would I be able to get away with running the stock clutch on 6-8lb of boost?
My goal is only 400RWHP and a maximum of 450RWHP I would like to just get the setup for now while I'm gone for a while and pay it off.

I'd prefer not to spend an extra 1000 plus on a new clutch since I only have 20,000 miles on mine. Is this a poor idea?

As for the fuel injectors running low boost such as 6-8lb would I need to upgrade injectors? The ID1000's are 750 upgrade and that seems steep to me but I'm not completely opposed to the idea. Any thoughts?

Also the kit comes with screens for the turbos. I've never heard of someone running like that for street use is that dangerous? The site says using filter requiring PCM relocation, what exactly is that? I would prefer to have filters on the intake just as a guess I'd be better off

Lastly, I live in southern California and labor is about $89 an hour for work done. I know calling into a shop with a request for an estimate like this either they won't or it will be pretty far off anyway. What has anyone else paid for theirs if they got the same thing, also what are some educated guesses on the install price?

Any tips or helpful advice would also be appreciated.
I currently have
73mm tb
Lt headers
X pipe with resonators and high flow cats
Pype bomb Axel backs
One piece aluminum drive shaft
Eaton LSD
4.10 gear ratio (I have a set of 3.55's just not installed)
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Old 09-30-2016, 01:26 PM   #2
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Jack is the man and he knows what he's doing. I would listen to him on anything he says you'd have to replace. The only issue is your in California and those turbos are a big no no here. No way you'll pass inspection and if you get pulled over with them it'll be worse. I live in California too but I'm going procharger if I ever do boost just to pass inspection and all that.


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Old 09-30-2016, 05:51 PM   #3
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I actually don't have to pass California inspection in military and I'm registered in Nebraska where there are no restrictions. It's pretty nice the rules out here are ridiculous, been in southern California for 3 years now and never had to get smog checked haha

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Old 09-30-2016, 06:10 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Harm_3.7 View Post
Jack is the man and he knows what he's doing. I would listen to him on anything he says you'd have to replace. The only issue is your in California and those turbos are a big no no here. No way you'll pass inspection and if you get pulled over with them it'll be worse. I live in California too but I'm going procharger if I ever do boost just to pass inspection and all that.
I appreciate the input though

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Old 09-30-2016, 06:14 PM   #5
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I appreciate the advice though thank you

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Old 10-01-2016, 05:52 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by swhitfield2013 View Post
I actually don't have to pass California inspection in military and I'm registered in Nebraska where there are no restrictions. It's pretty nice the rules out here are ridiculous, been in southern California for 3 years now and never had to get smog checked haha

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That's awesome!
Not sure about the clutch but I had the same idea when I supercharged my GT. Still on stock clutch (about 20k) with 650+ crank hp. Seems like you could get away with it for a time. You're going to replace it anyway, use it up. That's my thinking but like I said, I don't know. Good luck and thanks for your service!
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Old 10-01-2016, 06:16 PM   #7
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Generally when I hear people say do it right the first time it's for items that are skipped that can cause the engine to blow or other serious damage to the car such as not getting a quality tune or upgrading to a one piece drive shaft.

If the clutch goes out worst that can happen is you will be stranded and have to have the car towed to get it replaced. It would suck but not the end of the world. And really as long as you baby it a little and don't dump it at 4 k it should last a little bit.


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Old 10-01-2016, 06:41 PM   #8
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Thanks guys for the advice I think I will just baby it a bit and continue on the stock clutch and save for a nice one once it goes out.

Does anyone know if you can swap the stock gt clutch into our car? It would handle more HP and I think we share the same transmission?

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Old 10-04-2016, 11:06 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swhitfield2013 View Post
So I've finally set my mind to it and budgeted for the twin turbo kit from JMP. I'm not completely sold yet (details such as installation/extra parts).
I spoke with Jack and he suggested the spec 3 clutch with aluminum fly wheel as an extra upgrade needed as well as the ID1000 injectors.
I've wanted to go through with this for a bit over a year now and I would like some input, I realize I'm shelling out a lot so I shouldn't skimp on something dumb and risk it but,

would I be able to get away with running the stock clutch on 6-8lb of boost?
My goal is only 400RWHP and a maximum of 450RWHP I would like to just get the setup for now while I'm gone for a while and pay it off.

I'd prefer not to spend an extra 1000 plus on a new clutch since I only have 20,000 miles on mine. Is this a poor idea?

As for the fuel injectors running low boost such as 6-8lb would I need to upgrade injectors? The ID1000's are 750 upgrade and that seems steep to me but I'm not completely opposed to the idea. Any thoughts?

Also the kit comes with screens for the turbos. I've never heard of someone running like that for street use is that dangerous? The site says using filter requiring PCM relocation, what exactly is that? I would prefer to have filters on the intake just as a guess I'd be better off

Lastly, I live in southern California and labor is about $89 an hour for work done. I know calling into a shop with a request for an estimate like this either they won't or it will be pretty far off anyway. What has anyone else paid for theirs if they got the same thing, also what are some educated guesses on the install price?

Any tips or helpful advice would also be appreciated.
I currently have
73mm tb
Lt headers
X pipe with resonators and high flow cats
Pype bomb Axel backs
One piece aluminum drive shaft
Eaton LSD
4.10 gear ratio (I have a set of 3.55's just not installed)
SCT TSX tuner with lifetime tunes

Sent from my 0PM92 using Mustang Evolution mobile app
First and foremost, i would never run another spec clutch. Maybe they have their act together on the mustangs, but on my previous platform there were 3 of us who ran spec clutches and had our synchros in our transmission destroyed because specs dimensions for our clutch were not correct. I also have a good friend on a completely different platform who had the same issue... that's too high of a failure rate for me.

As far as only wanting 400-450 whp, that's really arbitrary when it comes to clutch life, because torque kills clutches, not horsepower. 400 whp at 4000 rpms takes 525 ft/lbs of torque, where 400 whp at 7000 rpms takes only 300 ft/lbs. Very big difference, and one that's important to understand when it comes to the life of your motor as well. HP = (torque x rpm)/5252

It is worth the upgrade for ID1000s. The problem is not flowing enough fuel, any fuel injector can flow enough fuel for any power level. Yes, you read that right. The issue however, is that fuel demand is not continuous, it comes in small windows, and its flowing enough fuel in that given window that becomes the issue. Its like me telling you to fill a bucket with a garden hose. That can easily be done, but now i need you to do it in 2 seconds... not happening.
Basically what i am saying is you can run the piss out of a smaller injector to have it spray the desired amount of fuel in a few milliseconds, or you can have a larger injector that can easily flow the given amount of fuel in that same amount of time. Think fire truck hose to fill that same bucket. Also, ID injectors have fabulous low load IPW (injector pulse width - that window, measured in milliseconds) which makes daily driving and idle tuning very smooth. This is not something that is easy to do with a large injector.

Filters would be preferred, but apparently it will require an ecu relocate. I think you're over thinking this, it literally just means you need to move the ecu. The ECU is located directly behind the passenger head light, so if you can imagine a turbo coming off that bank, its right where the filter needs to be.
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Old 10-04-2016, 01:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
As far as only wanting 400-450 whp, that's really arbitrary when it comes to clutch life, because torque kills clutches, not horsepower. 400 whp at 4000 rpms takes 525 ft/lbs of torque, where 400 whp at 7000 rpms takes only 300 ft/lbs. Very big difference, and one that's important to understand when it comes to the life of your motor as well. HP = (torque x rpm)/5252
.
Great point!
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Old 10-04-2016, 05:45 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
First and foremost, i would never run another spec clutch. Maybe they have their act together on the mustangs, but on my previous platform there were 3 of us who ran spec clutches and had our synchros in our transmission destroyed because specs dimensions for our clutch were not correct. I also have a good friend on a completely different platform who had the same issue... that's too high of a failure rate for me.

As far as only wanting 400-450 whp, that's really arbitrary when it comes to clutch life, because torque kills clutches, not horsepower. 400 whp at 4000 rpms takes 525 ft/lbs of torque, where 400 whp at 7000 rpms takes only 300 ft/lbs. Very big difference, and one that's important to understand when it comes to the life of your motor as well. HP = (torque x rpm)/5252

It is worth the upgrade for ID1000s. The problem is not flowing enough fuel, any fuel injector can flow enough fuel for any power level. Yes, you read that right. The issue however, is that fuel demand is not continuous, it comes in small windows, and its flowing enough fuel in that given window that becomes the issue. Its like me telling you to fill a bucket with a garden hose. That can easily be done, but now i need you to do it in 2 seconds... not happening.
Basically what i am saying is you can run the piss out of a smaller injector to have it spray the desired amount of fuel in a few milliseconds, or you can have a larger injector that can easily flow the given amount of fuel in that same amount of time. Think fire truck hose to fill that same bucket. Also, ID injectors have fabulous low load IPW (injector pulse width - that window, measured in milliseconds) which makes daily driving and idle tuning very smooth. This is not something that is easy to do with a large injector.

Filters would be preferred, but apparently it will require an ecu relocate. I think you're over thinking this, it literally just means you need to move the ecu. The ECU is located directly behind the passenger head light, so if you can imagine a turbo coming off that bank, its right where the filter needs to be.
Thanks for the advice, that explanation of injectors helps, makes a lot more sense.
As for the clutch you're right that's an atrocious track record for a company, I'll need to look into different types more and see which one is best.

And thanks for the input on the filter and pcm relocation I looked it up shortly after and saw what it meant but when I was talking to them they said it was behind the passenger tailight? I think it was just a typo but it confused the hell out of me haha. I was confused cause he said it'd need to be moved from the tailight to the bumper, which i thought to myself why is it in the rear of the car? If it's in the rear what does moving it a few inches accomplish? But seeing as its actually behind the headlight and the filter needs more space that makes a lot more sense haha.
Thanks for the clarification

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Old 10-04-2016, 07:54 PM   #12
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You had me cracking up, i'd be confused as hell too if they told me it was behind the taillight, wondering what in the world that had to do with a turbo filter.
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Old 10-05-2016, 09:14 AM   #13
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You had me cracking up, i'd be confused as hell too if they told me it was behind the taillight, wondering what in the world that had to do with a turbo filter.
Ya I was thoroughly confused haha

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Old 10-06-2016, 06:18 AM   #14
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Spec clutch works fine for me, and I'm spraying 150 shot while racing every weekend.


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Old 10-06-2016, 12:38 PM   #15
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For injectors I would go with what your tuner recommends. ID1000's are fantastic, but for 450rwhp may not be worth the extra coin. You'll also need to have the longtubes and x-pipe removed and new exhaust fabricated from the turbo's back to your mid pipes if you want to run an exhaust system (will be dumped after the turbos otherwise).
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