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Old 10-01-2017, 07:21 PM   #1
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Water pump

2014 3.7 v6 convertible looks like my water pump is leaking. How the hell do you get to that top right bolt on the thermostat housing so I can get to the pump. Or tell me I am not looking at it right and that does not need to come off. (I doubt I am that lucky, lol)
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Old 10-01-2017, 08:53 PM   #2
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I just updated my post thought you should know its a 2014 v6
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Old 10-01-2017, 09:16 PM   #3
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If it's still under warranty let the dealer deal with it. Also make sure you update the overflow hose to the type with the check valve per the TSB.


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Old 10-01-2017, 09:30 PM   #4
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If it's still under warranty let the dealer deal with it. Also make sure you update the overflow hose to the type with the check valve per the TSB.


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93,000 miles no warranty or trust me I would, leak is coming from under the pulley
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Old 10-02-2017, 05:34 AM   #5
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When I'm not sure what bolts to remove on something, which is most of the time . I buy the 'new part' to see what bolts need to be removed from the 'old part' .
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Old 10-02-2017, 07:23 AM   #6
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When I'm not sure what bolts to remove on something, which is most of the time . I buy the 'new part' to see what bolts need to be removed from the 'old part' .
Excellent Idea David. Truth is I thought of that, but it seemed too simple an answer. But ya know hearing someone else say it makes sense
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Old 10-04-2017, 07:45 PM   #7
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2014 3.7 v6 convertible looks like my water pump is leaking. How the hell do you get to that top right bolt on the thermostat housing so I can get to the pump. Or tell me I am not looking at it right and that does not need to come off. (I doubt I am that lucky, lol)
You can unbolt the water neck first, then unbolt the pump.

Once the water neck is off, you can remove the bolts needed to get at the t-stat.

You'll want some small metric sockets (and combo wrenches, if you have them).

If you re-use the old bolts (I don't recommend that), don't over-torque them! They might snap (ask me how I know).
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Old 10-04-2017, 08:52 PM   #8
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You can unbolt the water neck first, then unbolt the pump.

Once the water neck is off, you can remove the bolts needed to get at the t-stat.

You'll want some small metric sockets (and combo wrenches, if you have them).

If you re-use the old bolts (I don't recommend that), don't over-torque them! They might snap (ask me how I know).

Thanks, ok go ahead and laugh but I thought that neck was a permanent part of the pump after you said that I looked closer....umm it comes off. LOL Been working on cars since 1972, think I would caught that. thanks
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Old 10-04-2017, 10:13 PM   #9
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^No laughing here! We've all had our "moments."
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Old 10-05-2017, 09:20 AM   #10
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^No laughing here! We've all had our "moments."
Sorry, I laughed.....cause I remembered when that happened to me!
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Old 10-05-2017, 10:55 AM   #11
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Sorry, I laughed.....cause I remembered when that happened to me!

Nice to know I am not alone
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Old 10-09-2017, 08:09 AM   #12
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Ok tackle this this weekend if any is wondering about doing this themselves it is pretty easy. Draining the system was a PITA but pump not bad.

1.) Flush and drain the system (you can cuss a bit here)
2.)remove your air intake (makes it easier to reach a few things
3.) remove the thermostat housing (disconnect the hose that goes to the degas bottle, you can leave the rest connected.) I put each bolt back in when it came from just to keep them out of the way and it's best to put them back in the original hole.
4.) Remove the thermostat (Rinse it off it just for the hell of it)
5.) Loosen the water bump pulley bolts
6.) Remove the serpentine belt
7.) Remove the pulley
8.) remove all the bolts from water pump and put them in the corresponding holes on the new one (I laid it on a box and poked them through pump and box.)
9.) put a screwdriver between top right bolt hole and cylinder and gently twist it left and right the pump will wiggle, after it wiggles a little you will have a small gap , slide the screwdriver in there and gently wish again. The pump will start to peel away from the engine block, now remove it.
10.) With a hose flush out the cavity and the pipe on top that was attached to the thermostat housing. Until the water runs clear. Then put it in the water jacket hole that was under the pump, until the water runs clear out the top.
11.) Put the hose on the thermostat housing and flush until water run clear
12.) Put hose in Degas bottle and flush
13.) using air compressor dry everything, I even put it in the housing and water jacket pipes until no water came out. (make sure petcock is left open through all this)
14.) Since everything is out of the way now is a good time to clean engine block.

At this point I stopped because it was getting dark and I was getting hungry. However all that is left is to install the new pump, I would suggest cleaning the bolts on a wire wheel chase down the threads with with a tap or battle brush, and put some anti seize on them.

I plan on filling radiator with distilled water warming the engine and draining two times then add anti freeze
Three questions at this point.

1.) Torque specs for thermostat housing and pump
2.) Best way to clean flange?
3.) Sealer or just that metal gasket? (can't feel it but think there may have been a sealant on it judging from color)
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Old 10-10-2017, 07:43 PM   #13
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Ok tackle this this weekend if any is wondering about doing this themselves it is pretty easy. Draining the system was a PITA but pump not bad.

1.) Flush and drain the system (you can cuss a bit here)
2.)remove your air intake (makes it easier to reach a few things
3.) remove the thermostat housing (disconnect the hose that goes to the degas bottle, you can leave the rest connected.) I put each bolt back in when it came from just to keep them out of the way and it's best to put them back in the original hole.
4.) Remove the thermostat (Rinse it off it just for the hell of it)
5.) Loosen the water bump pulley bolts
6.) Remove the serpentine belt
7.) Remove the pulley
8.) remove all the bolts from water pump and put them in the corresponding holes on the new one (I laid it on a box and poked them through pump and box.)
9.) put a screwdriver between top right bolt hole and cylinder and gently twist it left and right the pump will wiggle, after it wiggles a little you will have a small gap , slide the screwdriver in there and gently wish again. The pump will start to peel away from the engine block, now remove it.
10.) With a hose flush out the cavity and the pipe on top that was attached to the thermostat housing. Until the water runs clear. Then put it in the water jacket hole that was under the pump, until the water runs clear out the top.
11.) Put the hose on the thermostat housing and flush until water run clear
12.) Put hose in Degas bottle and flush
13.) using air compressor dry everything, I even put it in the housing and water jacket pipes until no water came out. (make sure petcock is left open through all this)
14.) Since everything is out of the way now is a good time to clean engine block.

At this point I stopped because it was getting dark and I was getting hungry. However all that is left is to install the new pump, I would suggest cleaning the bolts on a wire wheel chase down the threads with with a tap or battle brush, and put some anti seize on them.

I plan on filling radiator with distilled water warming the engine and draining two times then add anti freeze
Three questions at this point.

1.) Torque specs for thermostat housing and pump
2.) Best way to clean flange?
3.) Sealer or just that metal gasket? (can't feel it but think there may have been a sealant on it judging from color)
Great start! Torque specs on those tiny M6 bolts is pretty low--something like 10-15 ft-lb (which is why I was shocked when one snapped on me). I carefully cleaned the mounting surface on the block with a plastic trim removal tool, but it wasn't so dirty. I used just the metal gasket (except for the secondary seal around that lower hole from the aux pump, I used a bit of high-temp gasket-maker compound there as insurance as my old one had leaked from there and the shaft seal).

Good luck getting it buttoned back up! I think I spilled a good half gallon of nasty old coolant all over the driveway.
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Old 10-10-2017, 08:19 PM   #14
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Thanks
That lower seal on mine looks like it is metal wrapped in rubber (the rubber is worn off or I pulled it off trying to get it out which scares me ) how do I get that off?
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Old 10-11-2017, 07:34 PM   #15
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Thanks
That lower seal on mine looks like it is metal wrapped in rubber (the rubber is worn off or I pulled it off trying to get it out which scares me ) how do I get that off?
Hmm...didn't see that on mine. Have a pic?

The lower seal I was talking about looked like it was two parts--o-ring and a thicker gasket with a reeded edge. I didn't have the thicker gasket (a new o-ring came with the new pump), so I re-used the old one and added a bit of gasket maker compound to the mating surfaces for extra insurance.

The only metal seal I saw was the adapter plate that goes between the pump and the block, which had a rubber gasket embedded in it.
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Old 10-11-2017, 08:07 PM   #16
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Looking at your description I am pretty sure that's what we are talking about. the adapter. So how much trouble am I in
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Old 10-11-2017, 10:32 PM   #17
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Looking at your description I am pretty sure that's what we are talking about. the adapter. So how much trouble am I in
This thing? If you bought the pump kit, there should be another one (mine was stuck to the new pump, so it wasn't immediately obvious it was there).
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Old 10-11-2017, 11:15 PM   #18
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If you go to this link it is part HR1 I believe

Buy 2014 Ford Mustang Parts | FordParts.com
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Old 10-11-2017, 11:20 PM   #19
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If you go to this link it is part HR1 I believe

Buy 2014 Ford Mustang Parts | FordParts.com
Oh, that thing. I remember it being crazy expensive. Is that the o-ring that sits in a groove in the pump? My new pump came with one.
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:45 AM   #20
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I was on that lower tube the pump slides over
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Old 10-12-2017, 07:13 PM   #21
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I was on that lower tube the pump slides over
Hmm...I'm not sure then. Might have to spend the coin.
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Old 10-12-2017, 07:25 PM   #22
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towing it to shop friday, will keep you posted
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Old 10-14-2017, 05:11 PM   #23
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Good luck. Hopefully it's just a matter of them getting the right o-ring on there.
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Old 10-17-2017, 01:58 PM   #24
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WTF?

Well my mechanic used a pry bar and pulled it off, he could find nothing on it brought it to two ford dealers, They had no clue. So he put it together without it, been running fine for two days now. Cost me $150.00 (not blaming him )when I could have finished myself for nothing.
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Old 10-17-2017, 08:04 PM   #25
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Well my mechanic used a pry bar and pulled it off, he could find nothing on it brought it to two ford dealers, They had no clue. So he put it together without it, been running fine for two days now. Cost me $150.00 (not blaming him )when I could have finished myself for nothing.
Well that sounds fun.

Did he put some gasket maker on the mating surfaces, at least? As I recall, there are two seals there (for redundancy? Ford ain't gonna spend an extra cent if it doesn't have to), so that's probably why it isn't leaking.

Just keep an eye on it and make sure it stays happy, and you'll be good to go.

Did you upgrade the overflow hose from the degas bottle to the version with the check-valve? It'll extend the life of the new pump.
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Old 10-17-2017, 08:29 PM   #26
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Oh was a thrill and a half lol
Don't know if he did or didn't but is seems o be good has not gotten above 205 and I do not see any leaks, yeah I replaced the tube to the one with the check valve
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Old 10-24-2017, 06:53 PM   #27
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Oh was a thrill and a half lol
Don't know if he did or didn't but is seems o be good has not gotten above 205 and I do not see any leaks, yeah I replaced the tube to the one with the check valve
Well, if it ain't leakin', don't worry about it until it does.

Glad you got this annoying problem sorted. Like you, I found the bizarre arrangement of o-rings, seals, and adapter plates they used to be rather labyrinthine.
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Old 10-24-2017, 09:33 PM   #28
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well now it hits 209 - 210 sitting in traffic not sure how bad that is
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Old 10-27-2017, 07:22 PM   #29
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well now it hits 209 - 210 sitting in traffic not sure how bad that is
I assume those are the cylinder head temps reported on the message center?

Mine has always been a few degrees below boiling since I got the car. I'd say you're fine if the temps live there and you're not puking coolant.
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Old 10-27-2017, 07:42 PM   #30
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Thanks yeah first time I took it out the degas bottle emptied in about 100 miles I refilled it it went down a little again maybe a pint but has been holding there for about 300 miles I think it might have just been the air purging from the system, because I flushed it very well then rained it and shot compressed air through it till all the water was out. I can feel or see a leak. Normal I would not be this nervous but I am driving it 700 miles to florida then back in 3 weeks
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