What mods could I do next for performance? - Mustang Evolution

Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 4 Cylinder | V6 | Classic Mustangs || Tech and Talk > 2011-2014 V6 Mustang



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them here!
Old 10-11-2017, 06:35 PM   #1
Registered Member
Regular
 
Theta671's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 39
What mods could I do next for performance?

So I've done quite a bit of modding to my V6 already, but mainly handling mods. Now I'm interested in adding power to my 3.7 and was wondering if anyone here has done work in their motors(cams, crankshafts, forged internals, etc.) I know Super Six Motorsports offers a whole lot of engine work for the V6, but I don't see anyone actually posting about their products on the web as much. So I was wondering what would you guys suggest or should I try and just do forced induction?
Theta671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 10-11-2017, 06:47 PM   #2
Registered Member
Regular
 
Theta671's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 39
What mods could I do next for performance?

By the way this is what I have on my build:

• Air Raid CAI
• Koni Shocks/Struts
• Eibach Performance Springs
• 3.73 Gears
• Bama 91 octane tune (street and drag tune)
• Wilwood Performance Brakes 6 piston front with 13 inch rotors slotted and 4 piston rear with 12.8 inch rotors slotted
• Magnaflow Catback Exhaust
•FR500 Wheels 255/45/18 front and 285/40/18 rear
•(Ordered) Carbon Fiber Single piece Driveshaft
Theta671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2017, 07:13 PM   #3
Registered Member
Regular
 
rmb427r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Pittsburgh
Region: Pennsylvania
Posts: 392
If you have the money, go for a supercharger.
__________________
Ron..

2008 Roush 427R
2014 V6 Prem
rmb427r is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 10-11-2017, 08:24 PM   #4
Registered Member
Regular
 
Voltwings's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houston
Region: Texas
Posts: 3,430
Why wilwood instead of Brembo?
Voltwings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2017, 08:53 PM   #5
Registered Member
Regular
 
Theta671's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
Why wilwood instead of Brembo?

I chose Wilwood over Brembo because in my opinion if I compared the two, it's more of name brand at that point. The shop I went to suggested I do Wilwood's as well cause they use them on Factory Five Cobras they build and the customers were always happy with the brakes they get. I'm happy with my brake setup and I do some testing around the mountains where I live to see how they hold up and they definitely make a difference. I suggest them to people who are looking to upgrade.
Theta671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2017, 09:45 PM   #6
Registered Member
Regular
 
Voltwings's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houston
Region: Texas
Posts: 3,430
Interesting.
Voltwings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2017, 09:50 PM   #7
Registered Member
Regular
 
Theta671's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 39
I was thinking I wanted to upgrade my suspension and brakes to handle anything I want to throw into the motor and those brakes will definitely help. Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1507776596.074466.jpg
Views:	34
Size:	101.2 KB
ID:	245114Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1507776616.814013.jpg
Views:	37
Size:	111.2 KB
ID:	245122
Theta671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2017, 10:49 PM   #8
Registered Member
Regular
 
KATO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Cutler Bay
Region: Florida
Posts: 1,589
Send a message via Yahoo to KATO
I agree with rmb427r, get Supercharger.
__________________
07 GT. SCT: CUSTOM TUNE by "MUSTANG SPECIALTIES". LMR: GEN2 2010 STYLE HEADLIGHTS, RAXIOM: 2010 SMOKED COYOTE TAIL LIGHTS, WHEELS: STAGGERED WHL 22X8.5F-22X10R.
KATO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2017, 07:45 AM   #9
Registered Member
Regular
 
Voltwings's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houston
Region: Texas
Posts: 3,430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Theta671 View Post
I was thinking I wanted to upgrade my suspension and brakes to handle anything I want to throw into the motor and those brakes will definitely help. Attachment 245114Attachment 245122
Based on?
Voltwings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2017, 07:56 AM   #10
Registered Member
Regular
 
jkeaton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Winston Salem
Region: North Carolina
Posts: 1,359
Upgrade to a v8......
__________________
03 GT Convertible, 5-speed
07 V6 Coupe
jkeaton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2017, 08:59 AM   #11
Registered Member
Regular
 
Theta671's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
Based on?

Well not only do I wanna make my car fast on a straight one day, but I also wanna be able to make it take on auto cross or to road courses as well. I know the V6 will not stack up to a highly modified V8 on a straight line, but the V6 is a lighter and a little more controllable around corners to the V8 depending on the setup. What I'm trying to achieve is a balanced V6 to handle itself on any type of track that puts it to the test. Also where I live there are some pretty crazy drivers so brake come in pretty good use there too. 😅
Theta671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2017, 09:01 AM   #12
Registered Member
Regular
 
Theta671's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkeaton View Post
Upgrade to a v8......

That will be when my motor decides to give out on me, but I don't think that will be anytime soon since I try keep it well maintained. However though if it was to give out on me, I decided I like the body style of my car and would keep that and just swap it if I need to get a new motor.
Theta671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2017, 09:12 AM   #13
Registered Member
Regular
 
Voltwings's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houston
Region: Texas
Posts: 3,430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Theta671 View Post
Well not only do I wanna make my car fast on a straight one day, but I also wanna be able to make it take on auto cross or to road courses as well. I know the V6 will not stack up to a highly modified V8 on a straight line, but the V6 is a lighter and a little more controllable around corners to the V8 depending on the setup. What I'm trying to achieve is a balanced V6 to handle itself on any type of track that puts it to the test. Also where I live there are some pretty crazy drivers so brake come in pretty good use there too.
My wife and i both road race and she has a 3.7 so i know what you mean. I was asking specifically why you chose the wilwood over the Brembos. Not knocking your setup, but you didnt increase the thermal capacity of the brakes since the rotors are the same size as stock, and you didnt increase the swept area of the pad since the rotors are the same as stock, so... I'm just interested in the reasoning.

There are certainly other benefits of going to a fixed caliper, even in a stock size, but i'm just looking to poke your brain a little because those are the things i am concerned with when doing a brake upgrade.
Voltwings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2017, 10:27 AM   #14
Registered Member
Regular
 
Theta671's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
My wife and i both road race and she has a 3.7 so i know what you mean. I was asking specifically why you chose the wilwood over the Brembos. Not knocking your setup, but you didnt increase the thermal capacity of the brakes since the rotors are the same size as stock, and you didnt increase the swept area of the pad since the rotors are the same as stock, so... I'm just interested in the reasoning.

Sorry I tend to slide off topic. 😅 Well I was looking online for some ideas about which brakes I was thinking about getting and I had in mind that I wanted a brake that would be the best bargain. When I went to the shop who did my brakes, the first ones they suggested were Wilwood. So I went with those since I was getting other parts for my car. Brembo is a really good brand, it's just I also see them on every performance car from the factory. So I decided to be a little different and also they are pretty expensive for their brake setups. Aren't stock rotors for the V6 12.4 inches compared to 13 inch and the rear is 12.8 inch compared to 11.8 inch? So there's a little difference, I don't know how much there is but there's a difference. Also the 6 piston front brake calipers have more bite compared to a 4 piston front that it normally has.
Theta671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2017, 11:33 AM   #15
Registered Member
Regular
 
Theta671's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
My wife and i both road race and she has a 3.7 so i know what you mean. I was asking specifically why you chose the wilwood over the Brembos. Not knocking your setup, but you didnt increase the thermal capacity of the brakes since the rotors are the same size as stock, and you didnt increase the swept area of the pad since the rotors are the same as stock, so... I'm just interested in the reasoning.

There are certainly other benefits of going to a fixed caliper, even in a stock size, but i'm just looking to poke your brain a little because those are the things i am concerned with when doing a brake upgrade.


This also helps me understand what I put into my car and what goes on with all the parts to make it perform better than stock so I thank you for taking the time to help me understand all of this. Before I bought my mustang I knew the very basics of a car and how they operate, but since I bought my mustang I've been learning quite a bit of knowledge of cars and their components. So stuff like this really helps me in the future. 😁👍🏻
Theta671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2017, 07:26 AM   #16
Registered Member
Regular
 
Voltwings's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houston
Region: Texas
Posts: 3,430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Theta671 View Post
I chose Wilwood over Brembo because in my opinion if I compared the two, it's more of name brand at that point. The shop I went to suggested I do Wilwood's as well cause they use them on Factory Five Cobras they build and the customers were always happy with the brakes they get. I'm happy with my brake setup and I do some testing around the mountains where I live to see how they hold up and they definitely make a difference. I suggest them to people who are looking to upgrade.
Back to the topic of this thread, if you are serious about wanting to do Road course or autox, Forced induction is probably one of the worst things you can do. I'd recommend going out now and finding the short comings in your car and spending the money there.

That being said, if you have money burning a hole in your pocket for more HP, there is a British company that runs prototype cars in Pirelli World Challenge using a 4.0L cyclone engine. The car is called a Ginetta, and i think there is a video somewhere of the 4.0L version on track ... it may even be Super Sixx motorsports' website. Check that out and see if that is something you're interested in.
Voltwings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2017, 08:53 AM   #17
Registered Member
Regular
 
Theta671's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 39
What mods could I do next for performance?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
Back to the topic of this thread, if you are serious about wanting to do Road course or autox, Forced induction is probably one of the worst things you can do. I'd recommend going out now and finding the short comings in your car and spending the money there.



That being said, if you have money burning a hole in your pocket for more HP, there is a British company that runs prototype cars in Pirelli World Challenge using a 4.0L cyclone engine. The car is called a Ginetta, and i think there is a video somewhere of the 4.0L version on track ... it may even be Super Sixx motorsports' website. Check that out and see if that is something you're interested in.

Why would forced induction be a bad thing for road course and auto cross? I have an idea it would probably put me in a different class when I try out but is it because it might be too much for the motor to handle if I keep having to go on and off the throttle with possibility of a little lag?

I was thinking about wanting to do the 4.0L kit from Super Six Motorsports, but it's just I've never seen their work put on film or have anyone actually review there stuff. I'll definitely check out this company. Thanks Voltwings. 👌🏻
Theta671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2017, 09:08 AM   #18
Registered Member
Regular
 
Voltwings's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houston
Region: Texas
Posts: 3,430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Theta671 View Post
Why would forced induction be a bad thing for road course and auto cross? I have an idea it would probably put me in a different class when I try out but is it because it might be too much for the motor to handle if I keep having to go on and off the throttle with possibility of a little lag?

I was thinking about wanting to do the 4.0L kit from Super Six Motorsports, but it's just I've never seen their work put on film or have anyone actually review there stuff. I'll definitely check out this company. Thanks Voltwings.
Forced induction induces two big negatives from a road course perspective; heat and weight.

You're adding give or take 50 - 75 lbs high up on the front of the motor, well in front of the front axle center line. Front axle center line is the center of your wheels, that's where all your turning power comes from. You want as much weight between the axles as possible - think S2000 or mid engine super car. You're also adding weight up high, which is bad for center of gravity.

Think about a shopping cart at the store (even though they have wheels at the very front of the cart, we're making this analogy work for the sake of discussion), now put a giant cinder block at the very front of the cart and feel how reluctant it is to turn; same principle.

Next is heat. It takes a LOT of work to keep a track car at safe operating temps even naturally aspirated, but when you throw another 100+ whp into the mix, and a hot compressor, and a hot intercooler... things get a lot more serious. Chances are you could go out and run a 20 minute track session and be just fine as a beginner, but eventually the car will either be forced into limp mode, something will break, or you're going to be spending a lot of time and money on oil coolers, vented hoods, proper ducting for airflow management ... Someone could not give me a supercharger for free for my own track car.

At the end of the day it's just what do you want to do with the car. We take road racing pretty seriously, so all modification choices are based around that. Some people just want to mod their car and take it out from time to time, so obviously their priorities are a bit different. Just some things to be mindful of.
Voltwings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2017, 11:29 AM   #19
Registered Member
Regular
 
Theta671's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
Forced induction induces two big negatives from a road course perspective; heat and weight.

You're adding give or take 50 - 75 lbs high up on the front of the motor, well in front of the front axle center line. Front axle center line is the center of your wheels, that's where all your turning power comes from. You want as much weight between the axles as possible - think S2000 or mid engine super car. You're also adding weight up high, which is bad for center of gravity.

Think about a shopping cart at the store (even though they have wheels at the very front of the cart, we're making this analogy work for the sake of discussion), now put a giant cinder block at the very front of the cart and feel how reluctant it is to turn; same principle.

Next is heat. It takes a LOT of work to keep a track car at safe operating temps even naturally aspirated, but when you throw another 100+ whp into the mix, and a hot compressor, and a hot intercooler... things get a lot more serious. Chances are you could go out and run a 20 minute track session and be just fine as a beginner, but eventually the car will either be forced into limp mode, something will break, or you're going to be spending a lot of time and money on oil coolers, vented hoods, proper ducting for airflow management ... Someone could not give me a supercharger for free for my own track car.

At the end of the day it's just what do you want to do with the car. We take road racing pretty seriously, so all modification choices are based around that. Some people just want to mod their car and take it out from time to time, so obviously their priorities are a bit different. Just some things to be mindful of.

Oh okay. Heat would actually be a really difficult thing for me because where I live and the only time it is cool is during the winter and up in the mountains at night. If I were to find a way to cool the motor better though I would try to set it up to try to keep the motor and turbos or supercharger as cool as possible so that way it leave no room for error. With the weight problem though that's something that I'm trying to prevent because I know these cars are already heavy for the motor that carries them and that's what makes the 3.7 more better as gas as handling is cause there is less front weight to make cornering a lot smoother.

I appreciate all advice that is given to me and it really gives me different prospectives to look at when choosing what mods to do for my car. My build ideas change quite a bit from me wanting to supercharging to recently thought about doing a twin turbo build. I know I'm definitely going to keep the car because it's the mustang body style I really like and it's a reliable car. So I am still up in the air about how I want to set up this car. I know for sure though is if my motor was to ever give out on me on anything, I plan on swapping out everything to eventually put in a V8 since something major would need replacing. So this build is pretty much just keep building it day by day.
Theta671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2017, 08:29 AM   #20
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Catonsville
Region: Maryland
Posts: 685
If it was me, I'd go with arh or borla long tubes, ported s550 upper (you'll need to find an elbow to adapt it to the 11-14 air intake) into a ported lower.

If manual I'd also add the mgw race spec or at a minimum the Blowfish bracket (bonus doubles as a safety loop)
__________________
2013 SGM 3.7 | MPT Tune | JBA Titanium Ceramic Shorty Headers | MGW Gen 1 | Blowfish Street Bracket | BBK TB | 18" Charcoal AMR | FRPP 3.55 | BMR LCA | Steeda Panhard Bar | Dynotech 3.5" Driveshaft |
mariusvt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2017, 09:31 AM   #21
Registered Member
Regular
 
David Young's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Clinton
Region: Tennessee
Posts: 996
Quote:
Originally Posted by Theta671 View Post
By the way this is what I have on my build:

• Air Raid CAI
• Koni Shocks/Struts
• Eibach Performance Springs
• 3.73 Gears
• Bama 91 octane tune (street and drag tune)
• Wilwood Performance Brakes 6 piston front with 13 inch rotors slotted and 4 piston rear with 12.8 inch rotors slotted
• Magnaflow Catback Exhaust
•FR500 Wheels 255/45/18 front and 285/40/18 rear
•(Ordered) Carbon Fiber Single piece Driveshaft


I would add a Procharger to your list and call it a day.
__________________
Little Red. 2011 V6. Automatic Trans., C&L CAI, JLT Catch Can, BBK Ceramic Coated Long Tube Headers with BBK Catted X Pipe, Axle Exchange (American Muscle) Aluminum DriveShaft, GT 500 Lower Control Arms, Koni (orange) Dampers, Steeda Watts Link, Ford Racing 3.73 Gears, Magnaflow Street Series Axle Backs and a few more mods....Wifes car, 2014 Ford Edge Limited.
David Young is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2017, 01:02 PM   #22
Registered Member
Regular
 
Theta671's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Young View Post
I would add a Procharger to your list and call it a day.

That would make things a lot more fun. 👌🏻😌
Theta671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2017, 01:42 PM   #23
Registered Member
Regular
 
iguanaman3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Bokeelia
Region: Florida
Posts: 326
Quote:
Originally Posted by mariusvt View Post
If it was me, I'd go with arh or borla long tubes, ported s550 upper (you'll need to find an elbow to adapt it to the 11-14 air intake) into a ported lower.

If manual I'd also add the mgw race spec or at a minimum the Blowfish bracket (bonus doubles as a safety loop)
What makes you think the S550 intake is better than the earlier one? Ford lowered the HP rating on S550 Cyclones and the only change was the intake which was needed because of reduced hood clearance.
iguanaman3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2017, 01:47 PM   #24
Registered Member
Regular
 
Theta671's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by mariusvt View Post
If it was me, I'd go with arh or borla long tubes, ported s550 upper (you'll need to find an elbow to adapt it to the 11-14 air intake) into a ported lower.

If manual I'd also add the mgw race spec or at a minimum the Blowfish bracket (bonus doubles as a safety loop)

How much more air flow would I get if I did the intake swap? This is interesting cause I haven't heard of this mod for 3.7s so it's something I'd be looking at. Also it's Auto.
Theta671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2017, 02:04 PM   #25
Registered Member
Regular
 
Voltwings's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houston
Region: Texas
Posts: 3,430
Quote:
Originally Posted by iguanaman3 View Post
What makes you think the S550 intake is better than the earlier one? Ford lowered the HP rating on S550 Cyclones and the only change was the intake which was needed because of reduced hood clearance.
Companies do not have to advertise peak numbers, they just have to advertise a given HP at a given RPM, it just typically makes sense to advertise peak numbers on a performance car. I'd be willing to bet nothing changed between the two, Ford just picked a different rating to space it further from the ecoboost, as opposed to actually taking the time (money) to tune 5 hp out.
Voltwings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2017, 02:22 PM   #26
Registered Member
Regular
 
Theta671's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
Companies do not have to advertise peak numbers, they just have to advertise a given HP at a given RPM, it just typically makes sense to advertise peak numbers on a performance car. I'd be willing to bet nothing changed between the two, Ford just picked a different rating to space it further from the ecoboost, as opposed to actually taking the time (money) to tune 5 hp out.

So there's no real difference in the S550 3.7 compared to the S197 3.7?
Theta671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2017, 02:51 PM   #27
Registered Member
Regular
 
Voltwings's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houston
Region: Texas
Posts: 3,430
I cannot 100% say that as fact, but i would be surprised if there was. That being said, the top portion of the intake manifold IS different to clear the lower hood line.

I would like to think Ford put effort into matching the performance and distribution of airflow and, and, and ... but seeing as how they knew they were dropping the platform they could just have easily slapped something on there and called it a day.
Voltwings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2017, 02:54 PM   #28
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Catonsville
Region: Maryland
Posts: 685
Quote:
Originally Posted by iguanaman3 View Post
What makes you think the S550 intake is better than the earlier one? Ford lowered the HP rating on S550 Cyclones and the only change was the intake which was needed because of reduced hood clearance.
I've seen measurements, the s550 upper intake unported is larger than a ported 11-14 intake. You do lose a little top end up but pick up low and mid. Remember the difference was only 5hp, that can be lost in a factory tune change.
__________________
2013 SGM 3.7 | MPT Tune | JBA Titanium Ceramic Shorty Headers | MGW Gen 1 | Blowfish Street Bracket | BBK TB | 18" Charcoal AMR | FRPP 3.55 | BMR LCA | Steeda Panhard Bar | Dynotech 3.5" Driveshaft |
mariusvt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2017, 03:08 PM   #29
Registered Member
Regular
 
Voltwings's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houston
Region: Texas
Posts: 3,430
Quote:
Originally Posted by mariusvt View Post
I've seen measurements, the s550 upper intake unported is larger than a ported 11-14 intake. You do lose a little top end up but pick up low and mid. Remember the difference was only 5hp, that can be lost in a factory tune change.
I'm going to need you to clarify that? Smaller runners make more low end and mid range, fat runners make more top end. It has to do with port velocity, so what exactly is "bigger" on the S550 manifold?

A larger plenum is another discussion altogether, but i'm assuming you're talking about the runner openings?
Voltwings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2017, 06:27 PM   #30
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Catonsville
Region: Maryland
Posts: 685
The internal measurements across the board for the runners are all larger than a fully ported 11-14. The runners are shorter but a more direct airflow path. The few dynos I've seen shift the point where tq peaks to sooner in the power band.

I was able to find a comparison pic, the s550 is the top. I can't find the one showing measurements at the moment from my phone. If you zoom in you can see how much less material, ie larger the ports are relative to the gaskets.
__________________
2013 SGM 3.7 | MPT Tune | JBA Titanium Ceramic Shorty Headers | MGW Gen 1 | Blowfish Street Bracket | BBK TB | 18" Charcoal AMR | FRPP 3.55 | BMR LCA | Steeda Panhard Bar | Dynotech 3.5" Driveshaft |
mariusvt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2017, 05:07 AM   #31
Registered Member
Regular
 
audioAl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Region: Texas
Posts: 604
Power adders

Thank's for the photo^, after selling my 3.7 I've not kept up with V6 ponies as much. Porting upper & lower and try Hooker headers for the pony, also you'll enjoy the throttle response with the carbon fiber driveshaft. My Blue Cyclone was much better after the switch to aluminum for me.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	tn_IMG_20151008_0816231.jpg
Views:	14
Size:	117.8 KB
ID:	245170  
__________________
2014 DIB 3.7 "Blue Cyclone" on 275/40/18 RE 760 Sports/Sold
2016 ruby red GT 300 A with 3.55:1 gear/SVE resonator delete X-pipe/ UPR catch can/Airaid/AEM/J&M Bushings/ BMR cradle lockout/BMR CB006 brace/BMR cc bolts/S-04 pole position'
audioAl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2017, 01:28 PM   #32
Registered Member
Regular
 
Voltwings's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Houston
Region: Texas
Posts: 3,430
Quote:
Originally Posted by mariusvt View Post
The internal measurements across the board for the runners are all larger than a fully ported 11-14. The runners are shorter but a more direct airflow path. The few dynos I've seen shift the point where tq peaks to sooner in the power band.

I was able to find a comparison pic, the s550 is the top. I can't find the one showing measurements at the moment from my phone. If you zoom in you can see how much less material, ie larger the ports are relative to the gaskets.
That is interesting haha, fatter runners and shorter runners should move power higher in the power band (think boss manifold / cobrajet on the 5.0). They got some voodoo going on here. Interesting.
Voltwings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2017, 02:22 PM   #33
Registered Member
Regular
 
iguanaman3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Bokeelia
Region: Florida
Posts: 326
Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
That is interesting haha, fatter runners and shorter runners should move power higher in the power band (think boss manifold / cobrajet on the 5.0). They got some voodoo going on here. Interesting.
According to SuperSix it is the lower manifold that sees most of the gains from porting and the upper is pretty good as is. I wonder if it even worth bothering with porting the top one? Also do you know if we can use the aluminum version on Mustangs?

Quote:
Our flow bench testing has shown that the transition
from the square runner cross-section to the
oval intake port in the Cyclone lower intake manifold
is a significant restriction in flow. Our ported
lower intakes eliminate this restriction and minimize
injector boss protrusion for improved performance
in naturally aspirated, forced induction
and higher RPM applications. Limiting intake
manifold flow is increased 21% from 262 CFM to
over 317 CFM, that’s a 55 CFM increase!
http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/_...eManifolds.pdf
iguanaman3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2017, 09:47 AM   #34
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Catonsville
Region: Maryland
Posts: 685
Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
That is interesting haha, fatter runners and shorter runners should move power higher in the power band (think boss manifold / cobrajet on the 5.0). They got some voodoo going on here. Interesting.
Agreed but I was mistaken, there are no losses. Peak gains show 3-5hp, ~10 tq with peak torque coming in 4-500rpm sooner. The biggest gains from porting though are the lower. Adding the s550 upper just gives a little bit more.

You'll also need to custom setup the passenger side pcv connection as it is a slightly different location. Also you'll need to rotate an airraid modular tube 180* to get it to match the path change. So while it's bolt on, it's not 100% plug and play.
__________________
2013 SGM 3.7 | MPT Tune | JBA Titanium Ceramic Shorty Headers | MGW Gen 1 | Blowfish Street Bracket | BBK TB | 18" Charcoal AMR | FRPP 3.55 | BMR LCA | Steeda Panhard Bar | Dynotech 3.5" Driveshaft |
mariusvt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2017, 09:55 AM   #35
Registered Member
Regular
 
Theta671's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by mariusvt View Post
Agreed but I was mistaken, there are no losses. Peak gains show 3-5hp, ~10 tq with peak torque coming in 4-500rpm sooner. The biggest gains from porting though are the lower. Adding the s550 upper just gives a little bit more.

You'll also need to custom setup the passenger side pcv connection as it is a slightly different location. Also you'll need to rotate an airraid modular tube 180* to get it to match the path change. So while it's bolt on, it's not 100% plug and play.

So there's a lower and upper intake manifold? I'm trying to understand this because I watched a video of a guy who did the swap to his 13-14 S197 and he was saying you feel a slight better torque curve in the beginning to mid range.
Theta671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 4 Cylinder | V6 | Classic Mustangs || Tech and Talk > 2011-2014 V6 Mustang

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Last performance mods sticks123 2011-2014 V6 Mustang 22 04-15-2015 05:29 PM
Performance Mods for DD blp12 2011-2014 V6 Mustang 13 03-21-2015 12:04 PM
Little performance mods Mike V. Pre-2005 V6 Mustang 2 10-25-2013 04:50 PM
Next mods for Performance! AlexMcD 2005-2010 Mustang GT 17 11-30-2012 11:54 PM
Performance mods on a DD spikeshivers 2005-2010 Mustang GT 11 06-08-2012 08:19 PM

» Like Us On Facebook



05:09 AM


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

MustangEvolution.com is in no way associated with or endorsed by Ford Motor Company.