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Old 12-27-2011, 07:48 AM   #1
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Brakes

Anyone have a good write up on how to take the brakes off the front of the vehicle and put them back on. I'm looking at doing my own brakes, but don't really have a clue...Any step by step would be great. Thanks...
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:16 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avengnd
Anyone have a good write up on how to take the brakes off the front of the vehicle and put them back on. I'm looking at doing my own brakes, but don't really have a clue...Any step by step would be great. Thanks...
I don't know much about the setup for the newer ponies but most of the brakes I messed with are similar. They're gonna be really tight and typically 2-3 anchor points which you loosen from the back with either a socket or an Allen wrench. Then when you shimmy the caliper off the rotor make double sure you never let the caliper hang from the brake line. Those lines are fragile...

Additionally, if you're having problems getting to the back with tools you can always turn the wheels when you have it lifted to expose the back of the rotor better.


I'm sure someone can give you more specific information.
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:24 AM   #3
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Google it, there are a lot of good write ups out there.

Also, if you aren't going to replace the rotors, it's STRONGLY recommended that you have them turned before installing the new pads. Failure to do this can result in the new pads not being able to bed properly, leading to increased braking distance and premature and/or uneven pad wear.
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:26 AM   #4
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Re: Brakes

Sounds good, thank guys.
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:28 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Napoleon85
Google it, there are a lot of good write ups out there.

Also, if you aren't going to replace the rotors, it's STRONGLY recommended that you have them turned before installing the new pads. Failure to do this can result in the new pads not being able to bed properly, leading to increased braking distance and premature and/or uneven pad wear.
+1 stock rotor replacements are cheap enough to allow a change. Or you could step up to drilled and slotted although it's not really a necessary upgrade unless your brakes heat up too much at the track.
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Old 12-27-2011, 09:10 AM   #6
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Re: Brakes

you can also go to you tube
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Old 12-27-2011, 10:03 PM   #7
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And please please please be sure to pump the takes when everything is installed and tightened back up. You need to reestablish brake pressure before Rey respond like normal... My mom got in my truck to move it after I changed the pads before I got to pump brakes.. She reversed into a tree. -.-
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Old 12-27-2011, 10:22 PM   #8
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Re: Brakes

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Originally Posted by ColeJohnson View Post
And please please please be sure to pump the takes when everything is installed and tightened back up. You need to reestablish brake pressure before Rey respond like normal... My mom got in my truck to move it after I changed the pads before I got to pump brakes.. She reversed into a tree. -.-
Oy! Hope it didn't do too much damage to your truck ...
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Old 12-27-2011, 10:36 PM   #9
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Re: Brakes

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Originally Posted by ColeJohnson View Post
And please please please be sure to pump the takes when everything is installed and tightened back up. You need to reestablish brake pressure before Rey respond like normal... My mom got in my truck to move it after I changed the pads before I got to pump brakes.. She reversed into a tree. -.-
Will do...that sucks...

Thanks everyone...
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Old 12-27-2011, 10:41 PM   #10
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Make sure you get yourself a good set of commercial grade Allen keys; Torx bits; impact socket set.

After you get the car in the air but before you start the job, loosen the brake fluid reservoir under the hood. This will help when you have to retract the pistons in the caliper to fit the new pads.

Couple more things. Use the correct type of brake fluid if you have to replenish your reservoir. It might be wise to go to your local Ford dealer and purchase there for your specific model. When doing brakes on my cars, I replace rotors and pads EVERYTIME and at the same time. Are you the first owner of the car? If not, I would be replacing the calipers and lines as well--this way you know what you're starting with. Change your calipers or flush your system every three years or 30,000 miles after that. At the end of the day, don't ever cheap out on brakes!! Rotors and pads are cheap to buy no matter what type.

Before you put on the new rotors, spray with carb or brake cleaner to remove the anti rust coating the manufacturer puts on for shipping. Then scuff them up-in a circular motion-on both sides using a Brillo pad. Use anti-squeak compound on the steel surface of the brake pads.

Once everything is complete and your ready for a road test, be sure to pump the pedal after you start the car but BEFORE you put it in gear. You will then need to 'seat' the pads to the rotors. To do this you should drive down the street doing no more than 10 mph and the coming to a complete stop. Do this about ten times. Then increase your speed to about 30mph and repeat the stop and go process about four times. If all feels and sounds good. Take the car into some traffic for about a hour drive. After this, try to avoid any hard braking for about the first hundred miles or so. If there is no drama, the brakes should be properly seated.


Hope this helps!

Good luck
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Old 12-27-2011, 10:46 PM   #11
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Re: Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by MMVEC View Post
Make sure you get yourself a good set of commercial grade Allen keys; Torx bits; impact socket set.

After you get the car in the air but before you start the job, loosen the brake fluid reservoir under the hood. This will help when you have to retract the pistons in the caliper to fit the new pads.

Couple more things. Use the correct type of brake fluid if you have to replenish your reservoir. It might be wise to go to your local Ford dealer and purchase there for your specific model. When doing brakes on my cars, I replace rotors and pads EVERYTIME and at the same time. Are you the first owner of the car? If not, I would be replacing the calipers and lines as well--this way you know what you're starting with. Change your calipers or flush your system every three years or 30,000 miles after that. At the end of the day, don't ever cheap out on brakes!! Rotors and pads are cheap to buy no matter what type.

Before you put on the new rotors, spray with carb or brake cleaner to remove the anti rust coating the manufacturer puts on for shipping. Then scuff them up-in a circular motion-on both sides using a Brillo pad. Use anti-squeak compound on the steel surface of the brake pads.

Once everything is complete and your ready for a road test, be sure to pump the pedal after you start the car but BEFORE you put it in gear. You will then need to 'seat' the pads to the rotors. To do this you should drive down the street doing no more than 10 mph and the coming to a complete stop. Do this about ten times. Then increase your speed to about 30mph and repeat the stop and go process about four times. If all feels and sounds good. Take the car into some traffic for about a hour drive. After this, try to avoid any hard braking for about the first hundred miles or so. If there is no drama, the brakes should be properly seated.


Hope this helps!

Good luck
It does all good tips thank you!!! It's a new car and I'm the first owner.
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