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Old 06-21-2012, 11:29 PM   #36
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Re: My new '13

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rynarok View Post
Dealer had an offer to have the paint treated, supposed to resist acid rain, gravel, salt damage, tar, and all of the other common chicago road crap. Tossed it in for free, so how could I say no? They were also willing to do a good anti-rust treatment to the undercarriage...again with the salt n **** we chicago drivers get all winter. They offered additional sound insulation but i opted out...adds weight and I personally like hearing the car interact with the pavement.

Also: my break-in method is drive it hard to get the seals to set, then change that oil at 500, then again at 3k as normal. I think you'd be surprised at the amount of metal present in the oil from that first change. The service desk guy tried to talk me out of it (the dealer said they'd do the first one whenever i wanted) but....i was insistent. I told the manager that I only want synthetic oil used, once i start doing these things myself it'll be Mobil 1 and K&N oilfilters.
Did they balk at using synthetic oil? I'm almost ready for my first oil change, which my dealer threw in also (I think it's a Ford thing), and I was kinda dreading telling them that I wanted full synthetic oil in it. If they aren't willing then I'll just pay someone else to do it. I'm going with Mobil 1 also.
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Old 06-22-2012, 08:39 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rynarok

Dealer had an offer to have the paint treated, supposed to resist acid rain, gravel, salt damage, tar, and all of the other common chicago road crap. Tossed it in for free, so how could I say no? They were also willing to do a good anti-rust treatment to the undercarriage...again with the salt n **** we chicago drivers get all winter. They offered additional sound insulation but i opted out...adds weight and I personally like hearing the car interact with the pavement.

Also: my break-in method is drive it hard to get the seals to set, then change that oil at 500, then again at 3k as normal. I think you'd be surprised at the amount of metal present in the oil from that first change. The service desk guy tried to talk me out of it (the dealer said they'd do the first one whenever i wanted) but....i was insistent. I told the manager that I only want synthetic oil used, once i start doing these things myself it'll be Mobil 1 and K&N oilfilters.
What oil did they put in this time?

---------- Post added at 09:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:26 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by lilredgt

Did they balk at using synthetic oil? I'm almost ready for my first oil change, which my dealer threw in also (I think it's a Ford thing), and I was kinda dreading telling them that I wanted full synthetic oil in it. If they aren't willing then I'll just pay someone else to do it. I'm going with Mobil 1 also.
Do u have a track pack too? I'm
Asking cause if u do then what weight are you going with in terms of oil?
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Old 06-22-2012, 09:49 AM   #38
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Re: My new '13

5w20 is the manufacturer's recommendation, so that is the weight that they are gonna use. They didn't give me any crap about me wanting the synthetic over the dino oils, but he DID say that they do not stock Mobil 1 and I would be getting the standard Motorcraft oil and filter.

I don't see how having the trackpack should change what oil you would use...maybe you mean that 5w20 is too light of an oil for hard cornering? In that case I would say 'thank god for the stock oil squirters?'
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:34 AM   #39
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Believe the track pack cars come with 5w50
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:45 AM   #40
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Yea, 5w50 in track pack or 5w20 otherwise
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:49 AM   #41
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Re: My new '13

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Originally Posted by Dbsaints View Post
Believe the track pack cars come with 5w50
+1 I think you are right. Trackpack GTs use same oil as the Boss 302, and .5 quarts more for the squirters.

Calling the dealer to make sure they aren't as confused as I was, it's getting changed this afternoon.
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Old 06-22-2012, 03:12 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Cheema

What oil did they put in this time?

---------- Post added at 09:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:26 AM ----------



Do u have a track pack too? I'm
Asking cause if u do then what weight are you going with in terms of oil?
No track pack. 5w20 is what I plan to use. I'm thinking of foregoing the free initial oil and filter change and letting my Guy at Express Lube do it.
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:28 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rynarok

+1 I think you are right. Trackpack GTs use same oil as the Boss 302, and .5 quarts more for the squirters.

Calling the dealer to make sure they aren't as confused as I was, it's getting changed this afternoon.
Yup! I'm gonna stick with motor craft 5w50
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Old 06-22-2012, 09:50 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rynarok

+1 I think you are right. Trackpack GTs use same oil as the Boss 302, and .5 quarts more for the squirters.

Calling the dealer to make sure they aren't as confused as I was, it's getting changed this afternoon.
The extra .5 qt on the track pack is for the external oil cooler originally only on the boss but now on the track pack cars too. There aren't any oil squirters on the '13s from what everyone is reporting. Ford yanked them and added a coating to the hypereutic pistons instead. I think it was a cost cutting thing.
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Old 06-22-2012, 09:52 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guzie

The extra .5 qt on the track pack is for the external oil cooler originally only on the boss but now on the track pack cars too. There aren't any oil squirters on the '13s from what everyone is reporting. Ford yanked them and added a coating to the hypereutic pistons instead. I think it was a cost cutting thing.
We're the oil squirrtes a big help? I hate that I don't have them lol
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:01 PM   #46
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They are there to cool the pistons. The hypereutic pistons can't take the heat like forged ones. Boss mustangs get forged pistons and deleted squirters to reduce oil windage at the higher rpms they see over and above the gt. Supposedly the piston coating helps with the heat? I prefer having the oil squirters there over some coating. It's interesting how ford pulled them from the '13 gt and put them on the new '13 gt500.
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:06 PM   #47
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From my understanding and most everything I have read and researched, the piston squirters created too much Windage at higher rpms and taking power from the motor so they were removed. Part of the reason that the hood heat extractors were put in was to help with cooling

They are NEEDED in the new GT500's for cooling purposes. Big engine with lots of boost and power needs to be cooled.
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:09 PM   #48
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Ford engineers talked about windage issues with them when developing the boss motor. It was in the last 500 rpm where they were seeing it.
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:13 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guzie
Ford engineers talked about windage issues with them when developing the boss motor. It was in the last 500 rpm where they were seeing it.
You referring to the last 500 over the 7000 that the coyotes are set for correct?
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:16 PM   #50
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Yes. It was in a big write up on the roadrunner engine in either muscle mustangs and fast fords or mustang 5.0. Can't remember off the top of my head. They found it after testing and spinning the motor higher.
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:18 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guzie
They are there to cool the pistons. The hypereutic pistons can't take the heat like forged ones. Boss mustangs get forged pistons and deleted squirters to reduce oil windage at the higher rpms they see over and above the gt. Supposedly the piston coating helps with the heat? I prefer having the oil squirters there over some coating. It's interesting how ford pulled them from the '13 gt and put them on the new '13 gt500.
Sounds like I would have liked having them lol oh well
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:30 PM   #52
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Re: My new '13

makes me wonder if swapping in a colder thermostat would help things along. It's an old shadetree method of making a modest gain in power to begin with...

dunno. Need to do some playing with and reading on the new 5.0 before I start tweaking things.
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:33 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guzie
Yes. It was in a big write up on the roadrunner engine in either muscle mustangs and fast fords or mustang 5.0. Can't remember off the top of my head. They found it after testing and spinning the motor higher.
Fair enough. Maybe the engineers were able to sufficiently cool the coyote w/out piston squirters so they took them out to save money, or maybe they realized that it cannot be a problem ONLY ABOVE 7000 rpms and may have posed a problem starting at 6500 rpms? Dunno speculation. Either way they're gone for '13 GT's but added to gt500's for cooling!!
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:36 PM   #54
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You want to keep the thermostat as it is. The coolant cycle is optimized on the motor to control the heat the best. A cooler thermostat number may just hurt you by not allowing the coolant around the block enough time to pull heat out of the block and also not give coolant outside of the block enough time to lose the heat it has.
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Old 06-23-2012, 12:04 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rynarok

Dealer had an offer to have the paint treated, supposed to resist acid rain, gravel, salt damage, tar, and all of the other common chicago road crap. Tossed it in for free, so how could I say no? They were also willing to do a good anti-rust treatment to the undercarriage...again with the salt n **** we chicago drivers get all winter. They offered additional sound insulation but i opted out...adds weight and I personally like hearing the car interact with the pavement.

Also: my break-in method is drive it hard to get the seals to set, then change that oil at 500, then again at 3k as normal. I think you'd be surprised at the amount of metal present in the oil from that first change. The service desk guy tried to talk me out of it (the dealer said they'd do the first one whenever i wanted) but....i was insistent. I told the manager that I only want synthetic oil used, once i start doing these things myself it'll be Mobil 1 and K&N oilfilters.
Actually I had my oil tested after my first oil change and there was zero metal in it. The oil was brand new. These modern engines are already broken in before it's installed in your car. The manual tells you how to break it in as a legal thing.
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:41 AM   #56
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Congrats , you going to love it lol
Best part of going to work and school for me is driving there and back lol
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:55 AM   #57
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Very nice! Congrats.
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