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Old 06-22-2012, 01:59 PM   #1
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new dyno numbers

Just put my car on dyno. Made 713whp 536wtq

---------- Post added at 01:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:47 PM ----------

Will post dyno sheet in few.
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:01 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wnt2gofst
Just put my car on dyno. Made 713whp 536wtq

---------- Post added at 01:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:47 PM ----------

Will post dyno sheet in few.
Thats bad azz what all have you done to it for them kind of numbers
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:22 PM   #3
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Damn that's pretty awesome
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:26 PM   #4
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**** man! That's awesome.
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:33 PM   #5
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The countdown to destruction begins. Its not if, its when. Dont get me wrong, i wish you all the luck in the world and wish no bad to come to you and your car. But that kinda power on stock internals, stock trans, and rear (correct me if im wrong) is a recipe for disaster. Great numbers, very impressive.
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Old 06-22-2012, 03:09 PM   #6
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Old 06-22-2012, 03:11 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by DWC_SmOziLLa
The countdown to destruction begins. Its not if, its when. Dont get me wrong, i wish you all the luck in the world and wish no bad to come to you and your car. But that kinda power on stock internals, stock trans, and rear (correct me if im wrong) is a recipe for disaster. Great numbers, very impressive.
The tranny and rear end will be fine. The engine will let go first. Then of will be a built block and least 900whp.

---------- Post added at 03:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:10 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by garbill2003

Thats bad azz what all have you done to it for them kind of numbers
Boss intake, paxton supercharger, 11.5-12lbs boost, off road x pipe, aluminum driveshaft, 75lb injectors, bap.
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Old 06-22-2012, 03:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wnt2gofst

The tranny and rear end will be fine. The engine will let go first. Then of will be a built block and least 900whp.

---------- Post added at 03:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:10 PM ----------



Boss intake, paxton supercharger, 11.5-12lbs boost, off road x pipe, aluminum driveshaft, 75lb injectors, bap.
Thats cool just use half throttle lol f that hold it to the rug lmao
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:49 PM   #9
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Impressive numbers man. That's freaking beast
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:55 PM   #10
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Re: new dyno numbers

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Old 06-22-2012, 06:22 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wnt2gofst
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Old 06-22-2012, 06:31 PM   #12
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Sounds awesome man.
Thanks man

---------- Post added at 06:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:30 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by NuckChorris
Impressive numbers man. That's freaking beast
Thanks..we see if it hooks or if I'm ordering full slicks...lol
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Old 06-22-2012, 06:35 PM   #13
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Re: new dyno numbers

BOOYAKASHA brother,that impressive!
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Old 06-22-2012, 06:53 PM   #14
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Thanks..we see if it hooks or if I'm ordering full slicks...lol
I predict full slicks.
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Old 06-22-2012, 09:35 PM   #15
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That's F'ing AWESOME!!!
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:06 PM   #16
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Nice numbers! Another reason I want a 2013!!
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:09 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by nitrous2v
Nice numbers! Another reason I want a 2013!!
Didn't you order one?
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Old 06-23-2012, 01:15 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by avengnd
That's F'ing AWESOME!!!
Thanks man...

---------- Post added at 01:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:14 AM ----------

Also look at temp that power was made..wait till its 75* or better...lol
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Old 06-23-2012, 01:43 AM   #19
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Well that's just fckn awesome!
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Old 06-23-2012, 01:52 AM   #20
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That's got to be around 800 crank... If it hooks, you'll rotate the damn earth I'm that thing. Freakin awesome man!
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:53 AM   #21
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That's got to be around 800 crank... If it hooks, you'll rotate the damn earth I'm that thing. Freakin awesome man!
Right around 838 crank HP figuring 15% loss cause its an auto with a big stall. This was with convertor lock as well.
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Old 06-23-2012, 11:41 AM   #22
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Re: new dyno numbers

That some huge numbers on a stock motor... speaks volumes about tune/tuner

---------- Post added at 12:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:40 PM ----------

and the coyote motor
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Old 06-23-2012, 11:51 AM   #23
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Nice! I bet that's fun to drive
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Old 06-24-2012, 12:03 AM   #24
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Didn't you order one?
I am still debating on a color but I am 99.9% sure I'm going with the GB, Track Package and Comfort Package. My friend got a 2013 School Bus Yellow Boss last week and really had me thinking if I should go that route. It is one hell of a nice ride!!
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:25 PM   #25
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So been calling around getting prices. Looking at going ahead and buying a aluminator SC engine. 9.5:1 compression built forged from Ford. So far Tousley Ford has best price.
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:48 PM   #26
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Old 06-26-2012, 01:25 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by wnt2gofst
So been calling around getting prices. Looking at going ahead and buying a aluminator SC engine. 9.5:1 compression built forged from Ford. So far Tousley Ford has best price.
I to am buying an ford racing crate engine "aluminator" and putting it in my 2011 but I am using my factory motor for a factory 5 roadster I am building. If you are just wanting a forged coyote why don't you just tear yours down and rebuild It with forged pistons and rods and arp bolts? Way cheaper
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:09 PM   #28
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I to am buying an ford racing crate engine "aluminator" and putting it in my 2011 but I am using my factory motor for a factory 5 roadster I am building. If you are just wanting a forged coyote why don't you just tear yours down and rebuild It with forged pistons and rods and arp bolts? Way cheaper
Not really cheaper. By time buy internals, have the block balanced and everything then put back together. And also can sell the stock engine for least 2500.
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:23 PM   #29
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Re: new dyno numbers

ive never understood "lets put more hp/tq than it can take and when it breaks put a motor that can take more or take what i was giving the old one fine"

why not just sell the current motor and make some cash and then build a new one~ seems it would be more lucrative to do it that way rather than destroying a motor and getting nothing out of it~ or build a new one then swap them out
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:25 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by wnt2gofst

Not really cheaper. By time buy internals, have the block balanced and everything then put back together. And also can sell the stock engine for least 2500.
The internals aren't expensive and neither is balancing the block. Assembly is free if you do it yourself. Probably wouldn't even cost you 2500
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:27 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by SpectorV
ive never understood "lets put more hp/tq than it can take and when it breaks put a motor that can take more or take what i was giving the old one fine"

why not just sell the current motor and make some cash and then build a new one~ seems it would be more lucrative to do it that way rather than destroying a motor and getting nothing out of it~
+1
Although he might also be doing it to test the coyote block and limit of it's stock block and internals. It's like a really expensive experiment that is bound to blow up; by we're trying to determine when the experiment finally fails. Hah
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:35 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by 2011gt85

The internals aren't expensive and neither is balancing the block. Assembly is free if you do it yourself. Probably wouldn't even cost you 2500
If I buy internals I'm not going with boss ones. Pistons alone are 1000. Then rods for another 1000. New crank for 400. Balance here will run you about 500 easy. Not to mention having the block punched 10 over. Its going to cost least 4000 just in those things. And I don't know enough about mod motors to rip apart my self. If was a pushrod I would.

---------- Post added at 12:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:29 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpectorV
ive never understood "lets put more hp/tq than it can take and when it breaks put a motor that can take more or take what i was giving the old one fine"

why not just sell the current motor and make some cash and then build a new one~ seems it would be more lucrative to do it that way rather than destroying a motor and getting nothing out of it~ or build a new one then swap them out
This is the plan. I am not beating on it no more. Its to hot to race right now. Today is suppose to be 106 and it already 100. So I'm done for the summer.

---------- Post added at 12:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:32 PM ----------

http://www.modularmustangracing.com/

Even here internals are 1700 in sale. Then you want the billet oil pump gears. Another 300. And them internals are not 10 over.
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:39 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by wnt2gofst

If I buy internals I'm not going with boss ones. Pistons alone are 1000. Then rods for another 1000. New crank for 400. Balance here will run you about 500 easy. Not to mention having the block punched 10 over. Its going to cost least 4000 just in those things. And I don't know enough about mod motors to rip apart my self. If was a pushrod I would.

---------- Post added at 12:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:29 PM ----------



This is the plan. I am not beating on it no more. Its to hot to race right now. Today is suppose to be 106 and it already 100. So I'm done for the summer.
No need for a new crank. But hey of you wanna pay top $ for a ford racing crate motor then so be it. All in saying is you could do the same parts as the aluminator for cheaper.
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:44 PM   #34
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No need for a new crank. But hey of you wanna pay top $ for a ford racing crate motor then so be it. All in saying is you could do the same parts as the aluminator for cheaper.
You want a new crank. And no you will not build the same engine for less. Look pistons alone over 1000. I have looked all over. I can get the aluminator for about 6400 shipped to my house. Ill never match that tearing down. Not to mention the money saved selling stock engine.

http://www.lmengines.com/products/Coyote_Pistons
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:47 PM   #35
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You want a new crank. And no you will not build the same engine for less. Look pistons alone over 1000. I have looked all over. I can get the aluminator for about 6400 shipped to my house. Ill never match that tearing down. Not to mention the money saved selling stock engine.

http://www.lmengines.com/products/Coyote_Pistons
Those aren't the pistons the aluminator uses. Ford racing uses mahle. And the sticker for this engine is $8000 not 6400 shipped, the stock coyote motor is 6400.
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