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Old 06-30-2012, 08:48 PM   #1
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General Question

Hey guys,

Wanted to get some ideas. I have a 2011 gt cs and on the paint it has those spider web looking surface scratches. I wanted to see what's the best to get rid of them. I just don't like them because my car is grabber blue and you get close to it and it sticks out.

Thanks
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Old 06-30-2012, 09:00 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustanggt11
Hey guys,

Wanted to get some ideas. I have a 2011 gt cs and on the paint it has those spider web looking surface scratches. I wanted to see what's the best to get rid of them. I just don't like them because my car is grabber blue and you get close to it and it sticks out.

Thanks
Buff it, or get it buffed by a good detailing shop.
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Old 06-30-2012, 09:01 PM   #3
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I'd start mild first, like a scratch remover. Mothers makes one that sells at most auto parts stores. If that doesn't do it, try a CLEAR COAT SAFE rubbing compound. This will dig a little deeper. I've used both. The rubbing compound was too aggressive for my heart. I'm not a paint guy, so I chickened out trying to use an orbital buffer and working to remove heavy scratches. Good luck
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Old 07-01-2012, 12:22 AM   #4
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Re: General Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure View Post
I'd start mild first, like a scratch remover. Mothers makes one that sells at most auto parts stores. If that doesn't do it, try a CLEAR COAT SAFE rubbing compound.
+1 for rubbing compound, it'll do a decent job of making clearcoat scratches less noticeable. If you happen to know an automotive paint shop in your area, see if they will sell you some 4000+ grit sandpaper. Be prepared to invest some elbow grease.

And be sure strip the wax off before using the sandpaper/rubbing compound. Dishsoap is probably OK for removing wax. Reapply a good wax afterwards.

Sidenote: you will probably not get the same level of results that you would if you take it to a good paint and body shop. If you can swing it, let the professionals handle it.
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Old 07-01-2012, 11:04 AM   #5
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Re: General Question

Check out Auto Geek on the web. They sell a great selection of products and have great prices on buffers. Also check out Car Care Online. He started selling detailing products for the local Porsche club and expanded from there. He has written several articles that do a great job of describing what you are seeing in your paint and how to correct it. Enjoy.
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Old 07-02-2012, 03:22 AM   #6
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I watched youtube with examples of removing scratches all day and finally got the nerve and did it myself. Works! Just take your time.
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Old 07-02-2012, 12:30 PM   #7
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Re: General Question

Use one coat of wax ( preferably the one that you use with a pad Not the spray) wait 30min to 1 hr for it to dry. Buff off then apply a second coat. Wait and buff again. Put polish or detail (Again not spray) spread with microfiber cloth then buff 5-10 min later! Hope this helps makes my car blind other people when I'm driving, that or lets them see a perfect reflection of themselves driving a ****ty car!
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Old 07-02-2012, 05:40 PM   #8
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Thank you I will give it a shot.
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Old 07-02-2012, 07:57 PM   #9
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I was reading on the Internet that you could use scratch x to remove them and then put a cost of wax or polish on it. Has anyone tried this. The spider web scratches are on my hole car lol. Thanks.
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Old 07-03-2012, 01:34 AM   #10
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Help is here. Try using the scratch x first as that could be a quick and easy fix. If the spider webs are still there after a couple of tries, read below.

Rubbing compound, wet sand paper, and scratch remover all do the same thing. Waxes are rated by the amount of cut while sand paper is rated by grit. I strongly recommend that you stay away from sand paper. The concept is that those products are going to scratch or "cut" the rest of your paint job to match the spider web scratches, then polish it back up to a shine using higher grit that cause less and less visible scratches, ultimately leaving the finish sharp.

You can do this yourself in 3 applications and have your paintjob looking brand new again:

Step 1 clay the car. Use plenty of lube, make sure the claybar is riding on a very slippery surface at all times. Don't skip this step because you will be driving contaminents deeper into your paint if you dont remove them.

2. Try scratch remover with a medium or heavy cut, using a high speed buffer for this stage. Scratch X won't do much if your scratches are deep. Use the buffer to apply the scratch remover, wiping it off by hand. Check to see if your spider webs are gone, if not, you need to move to a heavier cut.

3. Once the scratches are out, work your way back up the cut, your final application should be 3000 or light cut, then carnuaba wax or polish.

You will need to visit a automotive paint shop, like sherwin williams automotive to buy the good compounds, 3M and Meguiar's Professional line work great. Pep Boys also sometimes has the better stuff that you don't see at autozone or walmart. The bottle should state the amount of cut, look at the pic for reference.

Try to watch some youtube videos before you attempt this. You can really f your paint if you dont know what your doing. You also have the option of having a paint and body shop do this for you. I used to charge $300 for this type of service, as a rule of thumb.

Let me put this out there, don't go to Maaco or some cheap econo place that charges $200 to paint an entire car, don't pay some self proclaimed "professional detailer" $50 to rub their crappy wax on your car. Your Ford Dealer can recommend a place if need be.
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Old 07-03-2012, 01:40 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Stallion 11
Help is here. Try using the scratch x first as that could be a quick and easy fix. If the spider webs are still there after a couple of tries, read below.

Rubbing compound, wet sand paper, and scratch remover all do the same thing. Waxes are rated by the amount of cut while sand paper is rated by grit. I strongly recommend that you stay away from sand paper. The concept is that those products are going to scratch or "cut" the rest of your paint job to match the spider web scratches, then polish it back up to a shine using higher grit that cause less and less visible scratches, ultimately leaving the finish sharp.

You can do this yourself in 3 applications and have your paintjob looking brand new again:

Step 1 clay the car. Use plenty of lube, make sure the claybar is riding on a very slippery surface at all times. Don't skip this step because you will be driving contaminents deeper into your paint if you dont remove them.

2. Try scratch remover with a medium or heavy cut, using a high speed buffer for this stage. Scratch X won't do much if your scratches are deep. Use the buffer to apply the scratch remover, wiping it off by hand. Check to see if your spider webs are gone, if not, you need to move to a heavier cut.

3. Once the scratches are out, work your way back up the cut, your final application should be 3000 or light cut, then carnuaba wax or polish.

You will need to visit a automotive paint shop, like sherwin williams automotive to buy the good compounds, 3M and Meguiar's Professional line work great. Pep Boys also sometimes has the better stuff that you don't see at autozone or walmart. The bottle should state the amount of cut, look at the pic for reference.

Try to watch some youtube videos before you attempt this. You can really f your paint if you dont know what your doing. You also have the option of having a paint and body shop do this for you. I used to charge $300 for this type of service, as a rule of thumb.

Let me put this out there, don't go to Maaco or some cheap econo place that charges $200 to paint an entire car, don't pay some self proclaimed "professional detailer" $50 to rub their crappy wax on your car. Your Ford Dealer can recommend a place if need be.
If your etches, etc are in the clear down to or nearly to the color, can clear coat be re-shot?
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Old 07-03-2012, 01:40 AM   #12
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Here you go
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Old 07-03-2012, 01:48 AM   #13
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I have seen them use some type of urethane clear coat filler then perform the procedure I described but I am not familiar with that so I can't say.

If it's that bad I would just take it to the body shop, tell them you want the scratches removed and let them do their thing.

---------- Post added at 12:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:46 AM ----------

You can also ask the people who work at the paint shop, they were always helpful to me.
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Old 07-03-2012, 01:55 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Stallion 11
I have seen them use some type of urethane clear coat filler then perform the procedure I described but I am not familiar with that so I can't say.

If it's that bad I would just take it to the body shop, tell them you want the scratches removed and let them do their thing.

---------- Post added at 12:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:46 AM ----------

You can also ask the people who work at the paint shop, they were always helpful to me.
Thanks man!
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Old 07-03-2012, 02:02 AM   #15
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No prob. Any painting or detailing questions you have I can help with.
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Old 07-03-2012, 06:26 AM   #16
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So should I not just try the scratch x they don't seem deep but what do I know lol. I'm afraid if I pay a place they won't get them out and I'm out of that money I really wanted to learn and do it myself. Would the clay bar work and then just a good coat of wax. Thanks for your help. Detailing is not one of my things lol.
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Old 07-03-2012, 07:54 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustanggt11
So should I not just try the scratch x they don't seem deep but what do I know lol. I'm afraid if I pay a place they won't get them out and I'm out of that money I really wanted to learn and do it myself. Would the clay bar work and then just a good coat of wax. Thanks for your help. Detailing is not one of my things lol.
Yup, I think that's what I would try. I like the idea of starting mild or light first when it comes to paint. I have many small spots or etches in my clear coat and I plan to look into the products Red Stallion mentioned.
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Old 07-03-2012, 09:28 AM   #18
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I'm going to try the scratch x this weekend and I will let you guys know how it turns out. Thanks
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Old 07-03-2012, 10:59 AM   #19
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Re: General Question

I agree with most if not all of what has been said here. Least aggressive to most aggressive is definitely the way to go. I think we need to be clear about polish vs. wax. A polish contains some sort of abrasives and removes some amount however small from paint. A wax on the other hand contains no abrasives.
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Old 07-03-2012, 11:29 AM   #20
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Yeah thanks for all your help.
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:43 PM   #21
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Re: Tire Change, Different Size tires

Hey everyone how is it going. I am having a problem with my 2011 Mustang GT ABS/ Traction Control System.

I recently upgraded my rear tires to 305/40 R18 these tires are about 3/4" taller then my front tires which are 255/40 R19

According to a tire size calculator online it says that my new tire is 2.2% slower then my original tire.

Now when i'm on the track my car is breaking randomly on its on. Even if i turn off traction control my car starts breaking on its own.

Last track event i had to unplug the ABS fuses to run the road course.

does anyone have any idea of whats going on?

Some people suggested my replacing the front tires so they are identical in height to the back.

will this fix my problem?

Thanks any help would be great.
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