Edit: the pics and guide!
This is a step by step breakdown of how to install the JLT Cold Air Intake on a 2013 GT manual (there is an extra step for automatics) and how to use your Bama tuner. Feel free to correct my methods as needed, I attempted to break it down into simplest terms.
This is how the stock intake looks:
Step 1: Unboxing and checking to make sure everything is accounted for
. The JLT box should have the instructions, heat shield, tubing, filter, and a smaller baggie with the coupler, two clamps, a rubber grommet for the MAF, and a nut. Also included are the sound tube delete plugs, and the adapter for automatic transmission GTs. Less importantly is the JLT sticker.
Unboxing the Bama tuner box, you should see your Tuner, a usb connector cable, instructions and a customer spec sheet. Less importantly, a small black plaque with your customer ID and stuff written on it.
Step 2: Get your tools ready
. You will need a flathead screwdriver, a phillips screwdriver, a screwdriver that can manage a number 20 torx screw (view pic for an idea), a 13mm socket, a 10mm socket, a 3/8" extender, and a socket wrench. Also, a good pair of needle-nosed pliers. Beer recommended but not required.
I also recommend a good microfiber towel or two.
Step 3: Pop the hood, lets get to work. If you have a strut tower brace, remove it. 4 bolts, 13mm. Do not lose these bolts. Set bar aside.
Step 4: Engine cover needs to move. Pull gently straight up, it will pop out of it's holes pretty easily. Set aside.
Step 5: Loosen the clamp holding the intake tubing to the throttle body. Use a flathead, and pop the tubing off by pulling it away from the throttle body.
Step 6: Loosen the clamp holding the intake tube to the airbox. Same deal as before, pull the tubing away from the airbox and it will pop off.
Step 7: CAREFUL. Remove the Mass Airflow Sensor. It is held in by two #20 Torx screws. Once you have it free, wrap the MAF in a microfiber cloth and set aside, do NOT let it get dirty or damaged.
Step 8: Loosen the clips holding in the top of the airbox. The airbox lid should be somewhat free; watch the small clips on the front that are holding some wiring. Pull out the little white clip without damaging the wires inside.
Step 9: Out comes the air filter.
Step 10: Time to disconnect the Sound tube and the PCV tube from the intake piping. Use the needle-nosed pliers to loosen up the clamp, and pull it off. For the PCV valve, move the small grey tab and loosen the connection. Pull it free also. Once these tubes are disconnected, the intake piping is free. Remove the intake piping and set aside.
Step 11: Gotta disconnect the sound tube from the airbox. Look for this clip and pull it apart: it shouldn't require too much effort.
Step 12: Remove the last bolt holding in the airbox. 10mm, you will need to use the 3/8 extender to reach it. SAVE THIS BOLT. You will need it again very shortly. With the removal of this bolt, the bottom of the airbox is free. Pull it out and set aside. Take note to not damage the rubber inlet while pulling it out: take your time and do not force it.
Step 13: Installation! Find the heat shield and position it in the engine bay where you just removed the airbox. Again, watch the rubber inlet and the various hoses and wires. It should fit pretty easily.
Step 14: Align the hole above the inlet valve (the thing you've been trying to not rip so far) with the stud from the fan shroud. The stud is about the only thing in that area for you to attach a screw to: this is where that nut from your installation kit goes. 13mm, get it snug but do not over tighten!
Step 15: Remember that bolt I told you not to throw away or lose? Yep, this is where you're going to need it. Align the two holes, and screw it back in. 10mm with the 3/8" extender. Once both of these are snug, your heatshield is in place!
Step 16: On to the new tubing. Position it roughly how it will sit in the engine bay.
Note: if you're installing this CAI on an automatic, you need to drill a hole in this tube before progressing further. I didn't need to do it, check the included instructions.
Step 17: Attach the MAF to the tubing. The new screws (you will not need those Torx ones again) are already in the piping. Remove them, and carefully align the rubber grommet over the MAF and screw it in. Get it snug, do not over tighten.
Step 18: Attaching the piping to the throttle body. This was a bit tricky, the coupler seemed kinda small for the piping but some patience (and a handy flathead screwdriver for 'convincing it') and it goes on nice and snug. Place the clamps on the coupler, but don't tighten anything just yet. Make sure nothing funny is inside the throttle body, and place the other end of the coupler on it. Make sure it is on there nice and snug, and then tighten the clamps (make them snug, so the pipe won't disconnect from the throttle body if you hit a bump or something. over tightening might lead to cracking the pipe, so do not overdo it).
Step 19: Air filter! This goes on the other end of the piping, inside your new enclosure from the newly installed heat shield. This also is stubborn to fit on the end of the pipe. Again, some convincing from a flathead screwdriver and it pops right on. Tighten the clamp once you have it on snugly.
Step 20: Re-attach the PCV tube and sound tube. They should slide right on: use the pliers for the clamp on the sound tube. Careful with the PCV tube, do not break any of the plastic on the connector.
Note: if you wanted to remove your sound tube, this is the step where you would install the caps in the tube and on the firewall. Check the included instructions.
Step 21: You're close to finished, time to put the engine cover back on. This goes on the same way you took it off: align the pegs with the holes and press down firmly. You should feel it pop into position, there are 4 pegs.
Step 22: If you have the strut tower brace, reinstall it. Remember: this is a component of your suspension geometry, so you want it torqued down in a cross pattern (similar to how you torque down lug nuts on your wheel). Don't over do it, I only took them to around 20ft/lbs.
And that completes the installation of your new JLT cold air intake! I would save your stock components...just in case. You never know when you might want it, and throwing it away is a waste.
Now, on to the tuning...(covered in next post)
Special thanks to JLT for making such a great fitting (and looking, that carbon fiber...) product.
Also to the guys over at Bama. Real professionals.
And Ford, for having the balls to make a mustang that'll outrun most other muscle cars!
And to Craftsman for making all of my tools.
And to Imgur.com for hosting all of my photos.